Removing motor
Removing motor
did a brieft search didnt come up with too many things. I already have all lines and wires disconnected, radiator is off, exhaust is off, and i have an engine hoist. i removed the 3 bolts that the bracket has on it touching the motor (passenger side) and 2 bolts on the drivers side. i found it i should of disconnected it from the actual mount but too late now. the engine fell about an inch lower immediatly after i removed those. i plan on pulling the motor out with the transmission if this is the easiest way. my main question is where is the best place to disconnect the drive shaft from? theres like a bracket just after the transmission that i believe holds it up, is this it? any first hand experience tips would help, or if you know a link to a site that would be good too. thanks
I just found a pretty good artice on removing the motor here http://www.superstreetonline.com/howto/3430/ It says that you need to remove the 1 bolt on each side thats on the mount, well my mistake was i removed the ones connected to the motor! is this going to be a problem? what should i do now??
i just got done removing the drive shaft, my first time doing this. it took me 30 min. only 2 difficult things i ran into were 1. the drive shaft after removing the 4 bolts, was wedged up hard against the diff so i jacked it up till it broke loose 2. i could only pull the shaft out of the transmission about 1 1/2 inch so i persuaded it to come out with a hammer. Next is the transmission mount correct?
Re: (DRFT24O)
Make sure you remove the shifter lever too: it'll be a PITA to get the transmission out if you don't. :-) Then all the connections to the transmission, like speed/gear sensors, slave cylinder, etc. After that the support bracket and you should be home free. It's just as easy to leave the transmission in when removing the engine, but putting it back in goes much smoother when attached to the M/T IMO.
Oh and those motor mounts you unbolted are shot: they'r filled with oil, and loosening those bolts holding them together leaks the oil out. Find a pair from a junkyard, or here. You can buy aftermarket mounts from NISMO, but I'v heard they really harsh up the ride quality.
Oh and those motor mounts you unbolted are shot: they'r filled with oil, and loosening those bolts holding them together leaks the oil out. Find a pair from a junkyard, or here. You can buy aftermarket mounts from NISMO, but I'v heard they really harsh up the ride quality.
Re: (slipnfall)
i just removed the speed sensor and disconnected the rear transmission support bracket and now i have the jack holding it up.(although even without the jack the transmission wont go lower then maybe 4-5 inches) as far as the transmission staying connected to the motor, yes i am removing it attached and putting it back in attached. The only time im taking it off is when i take it to the shop to have them fix my block. slave cylinder? i assume your talking about the clutch slave cylinder that has two 14mm bolts, and i will take that out tomorrow. in the picture is the bolts i removed that were attached to the engine with a bracket, i took out 5 total, 3 on drivers side, 2 on passengers. i think your referring to the actual rubber mount that is held on by 2 screws 1 on each side, which i didnt remove.. i should have removed the single bolts but too late now, i should be alright correct?slipnfall wrote:Make sure you remove the shifter lever too: it'll be a PITA to get the transmission out if you don't. :-) Then all the connections to the transmission, like speed/gear sensors, slave cylinder, etc. After that the support bracket and you should be home free. It's just as easy to leave the transmission in when removing the engine, but putting it back in goes much smoother when attached to the M/T IMO.
Oh and those motor mounts you unbolted are shot: they'r filled with oil, and loosening those bolts holding them together leaks the oil out. Find a pair from a junkyard, or here. You can buy aftermarket mounts from NISMO, but I'v heard they really harsh up the ride quality.
edit - damn that pic is small. ok the left side is the passenger side bracket that has 3 bolts i removed from the block and the right side is the drivers side with the 2 bolts i removed from the block
Modified by DRFT24O at 8:59 PM 2/9/2005
Re: (DRFT24O)
Yeah my bad, I think it's only the 200sx/stanza's that have oil-filled motor mounts. I just read that it 'dropped' an inch when you unbolted the mounts, so I assumed this was the case. I couldn't really make out the picture you attached, it was really small. Here's a snapshot from the FSM, it doesn't show any bolts holding the motor mount together. You're fine, and so are your mounts, sorry for the confusion. Really there's only one bolt on each side which attach the brackets to the motor mounts, but you'v already got them out, no biggie.
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dreamsOfSkylines
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 11:29 am
Re: (DRFT24O)
well earlier today i got the motor out. went real smooth. only tricky part i had to do was jack up the transmission high enough so it cleared the sub frame while lifting the hoist too. then i removed the transmission, and went straight to work. im thinking of ordering a aftermarket clutch, most likely act. car basically stock, but will be turboed later on, so id like something streetable but strong, and no chatter. what can you recommened me as far when i take the motor to have looked at, any oem parts i should replace while the motor is out? what kind of transmission oil is good, REDLINE? thanks.
Re: (180fan)
how many quarts?180fan wrote:Redline MT-90 or if you've a little more cash, Motul Motylgear for gear oil.
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240marcuSX
- Posts: 4005
- Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2003 11:00 am
- Car: E34 525i
E46 M3
Re: (DRFT24O)
uhm yes, no, no, maybe, i dont know. jk
wtf is a transmission gasket?
wtf is a transmission gasket?
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bangstanger
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
- Car: 91 240SX Hatch
Re: (DRFT24O)
Well the pipe looks to be the inlet from the EGR to let exhaust gas back into the intake. As for the Cat..your call.. I wouldnt.. first it wont be doing as good of a job since it has filled up and started to break apart (or was smashed), second since it is broken you will eventually end up with pieces of it further in the exhaust and produce an annoying rattle, and/or limit the effective diameter of pipes with debris. The intake gasket I would assume should just be replaced but I cant see it well enough and dont know enough to see the problem...looks like it just fell apart? The stains you will have to ask someone else about, but it looks like some time of deposit from hot oil? Or possible a bad valve seal? The transmission gasket is ok as long as it doesnt get bent too bad or is cracked, damaged, etc. The disc looks like its had it though. Definately not worth putting back in just to replace 1001 miles later. Its glazed and looks like its mostly worn anyway.
I would recommend also getting the flywheel surfaced before you put it back together .. to avoid probs later. And just because..lol.. If you have other questions let me know and I will do the best I can... and everyone else here...lol
Hope that helped ya in the right direction.
Carl
I would recommend also getting the flywheel surfaced before you put it back together .. to avoid probs later. And just because..lol.. If you have other questions let me know and I will do the best I can... and everyone else here...lol
Hope that helped ya in the right direction.
Carl
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T
OKAY here comes my $.02
Clutch, get a new one, ur there and they only cost $60.
Fly: resurface it. A podunk machine shop will do it for $20
The pipe is EGR its for emisions if u really hate it then make a plate to block it off but i would recomend just sticking it back in for now.
CAT: a new one is freakin expensive and its against the law to buy a used one. Keep that one, if ur running stock exhaust then those little pieces are not gonna kill much. If you upgrade exhaust later, then either go high flow cat or test pipe.
the red color is paint put on by the factory to tell what side of the motor to drop cam on, im surprised with all the caked on oil its still there.
That orange gasket, i dont have that on either of my motors. Just leive it, its a liquid gasket that im sure serves some kinda purpose.
That upper timing chain guide i can see in the "red stuff" picture is a discontinued part from nissan. It along with the one on the side for the same chain was found to cause a ticking noice. Take them off, the motor will run a little more quite.
the "transmission gasket" should last forever (i dont know what its called either) as long as we know what ur talking about it doesnt matter if u call it the metal thingamabob that goes *dong" when hit with a stick.
State of inside of that motor: PENNZOIL IS BAD! i dont care what wal-mart tells you, its **** oil. Run castrol gtx if ur gonna stick normal grade or go all out for mobile one and DONT forget to change the oil, which it looks like that motor has been through a couple times. I changed my oil every 3k on castrol syntec blend and when i took it out and opened it up after 50k miles it still looked new. On my new built motor i run mobile one, and changed every 3k.
Good luck with the project and i hope i have helped.~Sam
Clutch, get a new one, ur there and they only cost $60.
Fly: resurface it. A podunk machine shop will do it for $20
The pipe is EGR its for emisions if u really hate it then make a plate to block it off but i would recomend just sticking it back in for now.
CAT: a new one is freakin expensive and its against the law to buy a used one. Keep that one, if ur running stock exhaust then those little pieces are not gonna kill much. If you upgrade exhaust later, then either go high flow cat or test pipe.
the red color is paint put on by the factory to tell what side of the motor to drop cam on, im surprised with all the caked on oil its still there.
That orange gasket, i dont have that on either of my motors. Just leive it, its a liquid gasket that im sure serves some kinda purpose.
That upper timing chain guide i can see in the "red stuff" picture is a discontinued part from nissan. It along with the one on the side for the same chain was found to cause a ticking noice. Take them off, the motor will run a little more quite.
the "transmission gasket" should last forever (i dont know what its called either) as long as we know what ur talking about it doesnt matter if u call it the metal thingamabob that goes *dong" when hit with a stick.
State of inside of that motor: PENNZOIL IS BAD! i dont care what wal-mart tells you, its **** oil. Run castrol gtx if ur gonna stick normal grade or go all out for mobile one and DONT forget to change the oil, which it looks like that motor has been through a couple times. I changed my oil every 3k on castrol syntec blend and when i took it out and opened it up after 50k miles it still looked new. On my new built motor i run mobile one, and changed every 3k.
Good luck with the project and i hope i have helped.~Sam
Re: (bangstanger)
what intake gasket are you talking about??bangstanger wrote:Well the pipe looks to be the inlet from the EGR to let exhaust gas back into the intake. As for the Cat..your call.. I wouldnt.. first it wont be doing as good of a job since it has filled up and started to break apart (or was smashed), second since it is broken you will eventually end up with pieces of it further in the exhaust and produce an annoying rattle, and/or limit the effective diameter of pipes with debris. The intake gasket I would assume should just be replaced but I cant see it well enough and dont know enough to see the problem...looks like it just fell apart? The stains you will have to ask someone else about, but it looks like some time of deposit from hot oil? Or possible a bad valve seal? The transmission gasket is ok as long as it doesnt get bent too bad or is cracked, damaged, etc. The disc looks like its had it though. Definately not worth putting back in just to replace 1001 miles later. Its glazed and looks like its mostly worn anyway.
I would recommend also getting the flywheel surfaced before you put it back together .. to avoid probs later. And just because..lol.. If you have other questions let me know and I will do the best I can... and everyone else here...lol
Hope that helped ya in the right direction.
Carl
2.4L of GL-4 gear oil in the transmission.
The cat, if you live in a place where emissions testing doesn't look for NOx, get the catco. I bought one off ebay for 40 bucks, bought flanges and had it welded. Bolt up affair after the mess and trouble for under 100. If you've got emissions testing, keep the EGR stuff. While it's off, clean them out with carb cleaner and a pipe cleaning brush thing. The stuff you see in gun cleaning kits. Ditto with the EGR.
Clutch, if you plan on running more power, get the ACT street disc. It's a good clutch kit.
The "gasket" thing around your transmission is a non-wear item. Don't worry about it.
That guide you've circled is the one.
The intake gasket? You mean the little rubber ring that sits between the MAFS and the airbox? Not really necessary but you could if you wanted to. Inspect it before replacing. One ring you should replace though is the one around your fuel pump's sender unit. That thing leaks after a while.
The cat, if you live in a place where emissions testing doesn't look for NOx, get the catco. I bought one off ebay for 40 bucks, bought flanges and had it welded. Bolt up affair after the mess and trouble for under 100. If you've got emissions testing, keep the EGR stuff. While it's off, clean them out with carb cleaner and a pipe cleaning brush thing. The stuff you see in gun cleaning kits. Ditto with the EGR.
Clutch, if you plan on running more power, get the ACT street disc. It's a good clutch kit.
The "gasket" thing around your transmission is a non-wear item. Don't worry about it.
That guide you've circled is the one.
The intake gasket? You mean the little rubber ring that sits between the MAFS and the airbox? Not really necessary but you could if you wanted to. Inspect it before replacing. One ring you should replace though is the one around your fuel pump's sender unit. That thing leaks after a while.
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bangstanger
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
- Car: 91 240SX Hatch
Re: (DRFT24O)
I was refering to the orange gasket...guess I forgot .. meant valve cover...my bad...but unlike sam said .. it doesnt look like form a gasket to me .. at least not from the tube..lol looks like the factory sealant thats put on replacement gaskets...either way I dont really have an idea on that since I dont know exactly what its for.. sorry for the confusion..
Carl
Carl
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T