Remote start install

[NRGM45]

If I remember correctly, I had to splice two. I didn't bother hooking up the lock and unlock outputs, which would have been a major PITA for me, since I have to run wires into the driver's side door. So I just use the kit to start/stop. I figured I don't NEED to unlock or lock my doors from a big distance. Hehe

I even went a step further and integrated the extra remote start keyfob with my home automation system (Samsung Smartthings). I hooked it to the Amazon Echo, so I can just say "Alexa, turn on my infiniti" in the morning and it starts my car by activating a Zwave relay, that in turns shorts the start button on the keyfob to start (or stop) the car. Heheh

I'd like to think I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to tech stuff, but I don't have the slightest idea how you made the Alexa integration work. Can you share the details, or point me in a direction to find out more about it? I have a fire stick with Alexa, but we have not integrated it with anything.

You have to have an extra remote you're willing to "sacrifice" for this purpose that you leave in the house. Ope it up and find the circuit board. Solder two wires in parallel with the button that actives the remote start. Take those wires and plug them in to your "dry contact" Zwave device. The Zwave device activates a relay (on command, from Alexa or your phone's app) that actuates the relay and shorts the wires. When that happens, your car gets remote started. Pretty easy concept.

[Ilya]

I'd like to think I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to tech stuff, but I don't have the slightest idea how you made the Alexa integration work. Can you share the details, or point me in a direction to find out more about it? I have a fire stick with Alexa, but we have not integrated it with anything.

You have to have an extra remote you're willing to "sacrifice" for this purpose that you leave in the house. Ope it up and find the circuit board. Solder two wires in parallel with the button that actives the remote start. Take those wires and plug them in to your "dry contact" Zwave device. The Zwave device activates a relay (on command, from Alexa or your phone's app) that actuates the relay and shorts the wires. When that happens, your car gets remote started. Pretty easy concept.

I'm also quite technical (systems engineer) and that is way cool lol.

[NRGM45]

You have to have an extra remote you're willing to "sacrifice" for this purpose that you leave in the house. Ope it up and find the circuit board. Solder two wires in parallel with the button that actives the remote start. Take those wires and plug them in to your "dry contact" Zwave device. The Zwave device activates a relay (on command, from Alexa or your phone's app) that actuates the relay and shorts the wires. When that happens, your car gets remote started. Pretty easy concept.

I'm also quite technical (systems engineer) and that is way cool lol.

That's funny... I'm a systems engineer as well. With a degree in the electronics field (which I'm obviously not taking advantage of professionally.. lol).

[mrnix]

I'd like to think I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to tech stuff, but I don't have the slightest idea how you made the Alexa integration work. Can you share the details, or point me in a direction to find out more about it? I have a fire stick with Alexa, but we have not integrated it with anything.

You have to have an extra remote you're willing to "sacrifice" for this purpose that you leave in the house. Ope it up and find the circuit board. Solder two wires in parallel with the button that actives the remote start. Take those wires and plug them in to your "dry contact" Zwave device. The Zwave device activates a relay (on command, from Alexa or your phone's app) that actuates the relay and shorts the wires. When that happens, your car gets remote started. Pretty easy concept.

Interesting, and makes more sense now. Thanks. I'm already thinking how to set this up and make a quick disconnect connection in case I need to use that remote for something. I assume you had an aftermarket remote to sacrifice? As I understand it, the factory remote takes 3 pushes, so that would be a more cumbersome set up for the smart device relay. (or maybe not?)

[NRGM45]

I used the aftermarket remote that came with my fortin RF kit I wanted the long range that kit provides so I can start the car from far away. The factory fob is very limited in that regard. If you're doing this... might as well get a RF kit. It's way cheaper than having to sacrifice a factory fob.

[mrnix]

I used the aftermarket remote that came with my fortin RF kit I wanted the long range that kit provides so I can start the car from far away. The factory fob is very limited in that regard. If you're doing this... might as well get a RF kit. It's way cheaper than having to sacrifice a factory fob.

I actually have an old Viper alarm sitting around (3 or 4 of them, maybe) and I am thinking about installing this with the remote start, basically just to use the spare output of the alarm. It will be hooked up to the Yellow/Black external Start/Stop control from the Fortin module. That way I can sacrifice a viper remote for future smart home use, if desired.

[mrnix]

I'd like to think I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to tech stuff, but I don't have the slightest idea how you made the Alexa integration work. Can you share the details, or point me in a direction to find out more about it? I have a fire stick with Alexa, but we have not integrated it with anything.

You have to have an extra remote you're willing to "sacrifice" for this purpose that you leave in the house. Ope it up and find the circuit board. Solder two wires in parallel with the button that actives the remote start. Take those wires and plug them in to your "dry contact" Zwave device. The Zwave device activates a relay (on command, from Alexa or your phone's app) that actuates the relay and shorts the wires. When that happens, your car gets remote started. Pretty easy concept.

Maybe a silly question, but we just got an Echo Dot and I was considering getting a Zwave relay like you mentioned. Do they work directly with Alexa, or do you need a hub as a go-between?

[NRGM45]

Unfortunately you need a $50 dollar Samsung Smartthings hub as an inbetween. Or.. you could use a WemoMaker and then you dont need the hub.

[mrnix]

Unfortunately you need a $50 dollar Samsung Smartthings hub as an inbetween. Or.. you could use a WemoMaker and then you dont need the hub.

thanks. Now I'm trying to figure out additional useful benefits of having the hub to see if it's worth it.

[NRGM45]

If you're into home automation, the hub is great. Very happy with mine.

[mrnix]

If you're into home automation, the hub is great. Very happy with mine.

I picked up the Smart Things hub and a Zwave relay (aka Monoprice 11990). This one is a dual relay, so I have an idea for something else after I work out the remote start. If I am reading the directions right, activation of the relay will close the connection between Red/Blue (switch 1) or Yellow/Green (switch 2). One of those sets will be connected to the remote wires that trigger the button to activate. Does this sound correct? I suppose I can test this all out, but it will be tough to test out the Zwave switch with live power.

[mrnix]

If you're into home automation, the hub is great. Very happy with mine.

I picked up the Smart Things hub and a Zwave relay (aka Monoprice 11990). This one is a dual relay, so I have an idea for something else after I work out the remote start. If I am reading the directions right, activation of the relay will close the connection between Red/Blue (switch 1) or Yellow/Green (switch 2). One of those sets will be connected to the remote wires that trigger the button to activate. Does this sound correct? I suppose I can test this all out, but it will be tough to test out the Zwave switch with live power.

I figured it out, sort of. The dual switch relay is non-momentary and only switches 120v, not dry contact or other voltage. I need to track down an affordable dry contact momentary button/switch, and confirm which contacts on my remote active channel 3 from the sacrificial keyless entry module I used.

[NRGM45]

I did it with a regular zwave plugin module. Plug that into the wall and plug in a 12V power supply into it.

That way, when you switch on the plug in Smartthings it powers on the power supply to supply 12V out.

Next, hook up a normal automotive 12 V relay to that power supply. Use the other side of the relay to short circuit the buttons on your remote. That's effectively a "dry contact".

Next make your switch for that zwave plug "momentary". There's a custom app that you can load in the IDE that will make any switch momentary. What that means is.. once you push it. it'll come on.. and after a preset amount of time, it will automatically turn it off. I set mine to 3 seconds, since the remote on my remote start takes about a 2 second hold down to start the car.


But yeah... regular zwave plug... 12V power supply (cheap!) and a 12V relay. All done.

[mrnix]

I did it with a regular zwave plugin module. Plug that into the wall and plug in a 12V power supply into it.

That way, when you switch on the plug in Smartthings it powers on the power supply to supply 12V out.

Next, hook up a normal automotive 12 V relay to that power supply. Use the other side of the relay to short circuit the buttons on your remote. That's effectively a "dry contact".

Next make your switch for that zwave plug "momentary". There's a custom app that you can load in the IDE that will make any switch momentary. What that means is.. once you push it. it'll come on.. and after a preset amount of time, it will automatically turn it off. I set mine to 3 seconds, since the remote on my remote start takes about a 2 second hold down to start the car.


But yeah... regular zwave plug... 12V power supply (cheap!) and a 12V relay. All done.

any tips on where to find a good Zwave relay candidate?

[NRGM45]

It wouldn't be a zwave relay. It would be a regular 12V automotive relay, hooked up to 12volt "walwart". And all that plugs into a zwave outlet switch.

[mrnix]

It wouldn't be a zwave relay. It would be a regular 12V automotive relay, hooked up to 12volt "walwart". And all that plugs into a zwave outlet switch.

Makes more sense now, and easier to wire. I have plenty of 12v relays around in my "spare alarm parts" box, so no issue there. Probably have a 12 power supply around somewhere too. Thank you for the additional info.