rehabbed combination switch 1990 Z32

[Varick106]

Has anyone rehabbed a combination switch ? Both left and right Directional signals hyper flash. Bulbs good. Connections good. No continuity when the switch is in the right turn position. Continuity in the left turn position. Can’t find a used switch that has been bench tested to verify a working condition. Can’t find a new switch either.

[VStar650CL]

If both sides are hyperflashing then the righthand position has to have continuity, if it was open-circuit then there would no operation at all. See if you get a dim test lamp at the Lt Green/Black wire at the combination switch with the key on. It should be bright, if it's dim then you probably have a bad NC throw in your Hazard Switch. Power for the blinkers goes through pins 1~2 on the hazards before going to LG/B at the combo switch to power the directionals. See EL-59 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 0%2Fel.pdf

[Varick106]

VStar, I will perform the test tomorrow, but on page EL-33, turn signal switch, shouldn’t I get continuity between pins 1 and 2 when in the R position ?

[VStar650CL]

Yes, but the connection diagram and the actual pin order don't match on one switch version, the order on one connector is 1-3-2. Use the wire colors to make sure you're checking the right pins. Pin 1 (power) is Lt Green/Black, pin 2 (right) is Green/Yellow, pin 3 (left) is Green/Black. If you check G/B to G/Y they'll always show open, LG/B is the common wire. Like I said, if they both hyperflash then they both must be making contact.

[Varick106]

VStar, finally back at it. The LG/B yields a hyper flash.

[VStar650CL]

If both throws cause LG/B to hyperflash then your problem isn't in the directional switch, that's making contact. If the hazards also hyperflash then you may have a bad flasher, if they're normal then you either have bad NC contacts in the hazard switch or resistance in the wiring between the hazard and directional switches. To find out which, jump out G/W to G/R at the hazard switch. If the hyperflash stops then the hazard switch is bad.

[Varick106]

Does the switch button simply pull-up and off? Looks like it should, but I’m breaking too many connections

[Varick106]

Also, the hazards work correctly

[VStar650CL]

Not sure how the hazard switch comes out, maybe oen of the Z mavens here can help you with that. When you get it loose, jump out G/W~G/R as I mentioned. But before you do that, I suppose it's possible you have a bad "common" contact in the directional switch or a downstream wiring issue. To find out, rig a high-wattage bulb like a headlight to jump between G/B and ground and G/Y and ground at the directional switch. If that slows down the flash rate on the respective side, then you have a wiring issue downstream from the switch. If it doesn't, jump it to LG/B. It should flash immediately, if the rate is normal then the common contact in the directional switch is bad, if it's dim and hyperflashes then you need to check the hazard switch.

[Varick106]

The switch button simply pulls up and off. Jumped G/W - G/R still get hyper flash at LG/B.

[Varick106]

I’ll move to the next step once I find a high wattage bulb and figure out how to wire G/B & Ground and G/Y & Ground then test the set up (I might be at the limit if my technical experience)

[VStar650CL]

You can make a headlight bulb test lamp with an H11 connector from the Help section in the parts store, a cheap H11 bulb, and a couple of gator clips. I use them for testing blinker circuits because the single bulb draws enough current to flash the circuit at the normal rate with only one bulb.

[Varick106]

I guess you’re not giving up on me , I’ll keep at it . I really appreciate the assistance.

[VStar650CL]

I guess you’re not giving up on me , I’ll keep at it . I really appreciate the assistance.

I don't give up on anybody who doesn't prove they're a lost cause. You're certainly not that. Not everybody has a good relationship with electrons, but that's usually curable. Happy to help.

[Varick106]

Since I have this, Headlamp Pigtail / Connector 9005 Bulb GROTE and a 9005 bulb, will I see the same results ?

[VStar650CL]

Sure, any headlight bulb will work. They all draw 55 watts of power or more, which is the same combined wattage as two typical blinker bulbs (27W each). So it simulates the correct load for the flasher to run at a regular rate.

[Varick106]

I’m back at it. With the hazard switch installed and the pig tail grounded.
1. G/B yields nothing
2. G/Y yields nothing
3. LG/B yields a normal flash rate in the 9005 bulb.

[VStar650CL]

Did you work the switch when testing? Not sure if I made that clear, the switch has to be thrown left or right when testing G/B and G/Y. If you did have the switch thrown, that means common is open inside the switch, power is getting to the switch but isn't getting through it.

[Varick106]

I did not have the directional/combination switch plugged in. If the directional switch is plugged in, how to I engage the wires? Breach the wire insulation?

[VStar650CL]

Slide a safety pin or T-pin into the back side of the connector alongside the wire, that's called "back probing". Sorry I wasn't clear about that.

[Varick106]

G/B: Headlight Bulb: Left - Normal ; Right - nothing. On Dash: Left - normal ; Right - Hyper.

G/Y: Headlight Bulb: Left - Nothing ; Right - Normal. On Dash: Left - Hyper ; Right - Normal.

LG/B: in neutral position. Headlight Bulb - Normal. On Dash - Nothing .

[VStar650CL]

Then the switch is good, the problem is downstream in the wiring or upstream in the flasher. Since the hazards work normally, the problem has to be resistance in the system somewhere or a bad flasher. If it's the flasher, it's because the 4-bulb load from the hazards is enough to run it at a normal rate, but the 2-bulb load from the directionals isn't. So I think I'd try a new flasher before anything else.

[Varick106]

My gut tells me I’m either going to have trouble finding a used hazard switch that has been bench tested or a new one (that isnt ridiculously expensive). Any chance of rehabilitating the existing one ?

[VStar650CL]

The flasher shows to be separate from the hazard switch in the WD, although I guess it could be part of an assembly. The hazard itself can't be the issue, if that was the problem you would have got a weak light and hyperflash when testing LG/B. The flasher is the most likely culprit, and if worst comes to worst I can tell you how to rewire that to use a standard 3-pin from the parts store.

[Varick106]

VStar, for clarification I am troubleshooting 2 switches, the Hazard Switch and the Combination Switch (that controls the directionals). The Combination Switch is the one I should replace ?

[VStar650CL]

No, the flasher unit. From the test results, there doesn't seem to be any problem with either of your switches.

[Varick106]

EL-48 Combination Flasher Unit

Looks like this is it

Novita Technologies 13.5 Amp 3 Terminal Turn Signal Flasher - EP34

Now I just need to find where it is

[VStar650CL]

If memory serves (and it might not, one of the Z mavens can correct me if I'm wrong), I seem to recall it's mounted on the brake pedal support bracket under the dash.

[Varick106]

I found it, took more vent parts off, still need to be a contortionist, is the flasher rigidly connected to the bracket ? If not how does the flasher separate from the mounting bracket. I can’t get sufficient leverage to break the screw holding the bracket to see how the flasher is connected to the bracket .

[Varick106]

Got it. It does just slide off.