Redtop T28 upgrade questions

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CMG
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I have an S14 T28 that I am in the process of putting on. First off, is the oil restrictor/filter necessary, or optional? All the SS lines I've looked at do not have one built in, so I'm wondering if I need to buy one. Second question, should I get new inlet and outlet pipes, or just the re-clocked adapter plates? They are the same price, do they have the same performance? And if you have links for the best prices on these parts that's cool.


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jr_ss
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The SS lines should come with the restrictor when ordered for an S14/S15. You'll have to purchase it seperate to use on your S13. There are no performance gains from using the OE outlet pipes or the reclocking plates, it's strictly your preference. Check out frsport.com, they have a T28 swap kit I believe...

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CMG
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So it looks like I'm gonna get the re-clocked adapters. The CS stainless lines only have a place for one banjo bolt, and for the S14 T28 that's where the restrictor is.

motorboater
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how much power can the t28 hold? could i safely get 350-400 out of it?

shift_SRDETuser
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3
motorboater wrote:how much power can the t28 hold? could i safely get 350-400 out of it?
350 crank mybe then you will be out of steam.......

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CMG
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CMG wrote:So it looks like I'm gonna get the re-clocked adapters. The CS stainless lines only have a place for one banjo bolt, and for the S14 T28 that's where the restrictor is.
Ok so everything is on the way. But when I was comparing the oil outlet pipes the T25 doesn't fit on the T28. Who sells one that works for the swap?

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CMG
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NM, I'm just gonna grind out the holes on the T25 oil dump pipe.

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CMG
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Everything almost done except for taking care of the oil restrictor issue.

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johnnyballs180
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FRSport said it's crucial to have the restrictor so excess oil doesn't hurt the seals.

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CMG
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I know I need to use one, but I can't figure out if I need a separate one or it there is one already in the turbo.

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boro drift
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If I remember correctly, the fitting that screws into the turbo for the oil line is the restrictor. Check and see if it has a very small orifice in the end.

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johnnyballs180
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i bought my s.s lines, oil drain tube, and restrictor at the same time, and a reclocking kit. man, that made it so much easier.

i saw a real cool thread a guy did, swapping a t28 into his redtop. he did the same thing for the oil drain return tube; he just got a circular file and went-to-town on it.

he did not, however, get a reclocking kit. he just customized his own pipes, which was actually kind of cool.. not the prettiest thing in the world, but it worked well. i wanted to make this simple and quick, so i got the kit.

http://www.club240.com/forums/...31094

i hope you figure it out easily. that link probably won't help you at this point, but there it is. GL

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CMG
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Actually that's the link I have been searching for. I saw it once but couldn't find it in subsequent searches, Thanks. I was about to be done with it, but when I was bolting the turbo onto the mani I broke a stud last night. Now the broken stud is soaking in PB, so wish me and my vice grips luck today.

mi240sx
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O.K. This is what I have, Redtop SR20DET, FMIC, BOV, etc.etc.etc. Objective is faster response from more a dependable (better built) turbo and more H.P. laterI want to upgrade turbo to: Nissan Factory OEM S15 Spec R SR20DET Ball Bearing Turbo Garrett GT28R seen here: http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-....html

So I will also need:

FR 76mm/3.0 in GT25R/GT28R Aluminum 2 Bolt Compressor Inlet Adapter seen here: http://www.frsport.com/FR-76mm....html

FR 51mm/2 in GT25R/GT28R Aluminum 3 Bolt Compressor Outlet Adapter seen here: http://www.frsport.com/FR-51mm....html

Circuit Sports Stainless Steel Turbo Lines (Bottom Mount) SR20DET seen here: http://www.frsport.com/Circuit....html

FR Nissan S14/S15 T28 SR20DET Oil Drain Return Kit (Turbo to Block) seen here: http://www.frsport.com/FR-Niss....html

And also step-by-step instructions

My limited understanding is it will be O.K. to upgrade to this turbo, not to go over 10psi and the only change will be faster spooling and possible HP increase after Injectors, MAFS and ECU tune upgrades.

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johnnyballs180
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yup yup that's about all you need. make sure you have ratchet extensions and swivels. you'll REALLLLY want them. here's a link to a shatty description of my swap; i did the same thing, with the same turbo, from the SAME place you are. haha

zer...76385

scroll down and you'll see what i wrote. and look at that link i posted above as well.

you can adjust the w/g to 10psi with the hks one i believe. otherwise, i do not know what the factory spring is going to let you go to. a boost controller is nice with the standard w/g that comes with the turbo. you're gonna like it.

and after a few months, you're gonna want more crap. you're gonna have some more power, but you're gonna want to get a bigger fuel pump SOON, injectors are nice, maf is good and a tune is a must. i'm at 13 psi on 95 octane.

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CMG
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mi240sx wrote:O.K. This is what I have, Redtop SR20DET, FMIC, BOV, etc.etc.etc. Objective is faster response from more a dependable (better built) turbo and more H.P. laterI want to upgrade turbo to: Nissan Factory OEM S15 Spec R SR20DET Ball Bearing Turbo Garrett GT28R seen here: http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-....html

So I will also need:

FR 76mm/3.0 in GT25R/GT28R Aluminum 2 Bolt Compressor Inlet Adapter seen here: http://www.frsport.com/FR-76mm....html

FR 51mm/2 in GT25R/GT28R Aluminum 3 Bolt Compressor Outlet Adapter seen here: http://www.frsport.com/FR-51mm....html

Circuit Sports Stainless Steel Turbo Lines (Bottom Mount) SR20DET seen here: http://www.frsport.com/Circuit....html

FR Nissan S14/S15 T28 SR20DET Oil Drain Return Kit (Turbo to Block) seen here: http://www.frsport.com/FR-Niss....html

And also step-by-step instructions

My limited understanding is it will be O.K. to upgrade to this turbo, not to go over 10psi and the only change will be faster spooling and possible HP increase after Injectors, MAFS and ECU tune upgrades.
How about you start your own thread instead of jacking mine, dumba$$

tercel drifter
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he was only helping u buddy, anyway i would recommend upgrading injectors, fuel pump and maf, there's no point of upgrading the turbo if you're tuning for more hp

Backfire
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I was told that an S14 T28 turbo would get 310 to the wheels. On my 95 240sx I had a sr20det blacktop with the T28 and at 14lbs was making 276rwhp on that turbo and I was killing alot of cars with that setup.

motorboater
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when you upgrade to s14 t28 on a redtop do you have to tune it right away before driving it? with injectors and maf stock?

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johnnyballs180
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CMG wrote:How about you start your own thread instead of jacking mine, dumba$$
CMG, my bad, you're right. sometimes (a lot of times) i get real off-topic too.

so, how many studs did you break? just one? with my turbo, i was given four new ones. i broke ALL but one of them. it was what lead me to throw my t25 up in the air. no way was i ever gonna get mad enough to throw my new turbo :Pi got the manifold to the t28, all the studs in place and i started threading the nuts. i'd get them, you know, tight but not too tight (or so i thought), and every time i was on the LAST one, the stud would snap off. at least there was a little nub sticking out so i could get some vice grips on it. i'd take out the new one broken one, put in the old one non-broken one, put the turbo back on, get all the nuts tightened down, and on the last stud, again, snap.i wanted to kick myself in the ***, but i was too tired and sore to even try. if you left the stud to soak in PB, i'm guessing you already have way more patience than i did. lol

that link i showed you, i think the guy said to have a friend lower the turbo in while you're underneath the car. i didn't have anyone, and it's not like the thing is especially heavy, but trying not to break off wire harnesses and silicone lines, or scratch up the paint, it kind of sucks. i had to work the turbo this way, that way, let it sit here while i get my finger from between two sharp metal things.. etc. let me know how it goes! on my new (megan racing.........) manifold i later installed, somehow a stud got so stuck, i had to get the thing to a machine shop. they torched it (burnt my expensive heat wrap off), drilled it, but there was nothing left to thread to

lame.

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johnnyballs180
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tercel drifter wrote:he was only helping u buddy, anyway i would recommend upgrading injectors, fuel pump and maf, there's no point of upgrading the turbo if you're tuning for more hp
i don't get it. if you want more power, you don't upgrade the turbo; instead, you get a better intake/fuel system and a tune?what.
motorboater wrote:when you upgrade to s14 t28 on a redtop do you have to tune it right away before driving it? with injectors and maf stock?
no, but it's a good idea before you start beating on it. i'd recommend getting an oil change asap after the turbo swap, and keep the boost a little low. a bigger turbo's nice, but it's a smart idea to get all the other crap out of the way before you screw anything up. besides, it'll make you happier and prevent more breakage.

mi240sx
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CMG wrote:How about you start your own thread instead of jacking mine, dumba$$
My fault, sorry, see I thought this was a forum $_@))$@_)$@)*$%)#

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CMG
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Luckily I only broke one stud, and of course it was the last one I was tightening. After two hours and buying a new pair of vice grips I got it out and put the new one in with locktite. With luck everything will be together and ready to go in today. For other people doing the swap, this is the info I have found from my experience:-Keep an eye out on craigslist for a good condition used T28 for under $300-Get the reclocked plates, best price is Kai project from askme4parts on ebay, $40-you'll have to do some drilling and filing to make some room on the turbo and inlet and outlet pipe flanges for the plates.-Get the CS sports SS lines (or Taka for more) For S13 the oil restrictor is in the stock banjo bolt, so you will need to get an oil restrictor AN fitting too....unless you like blown seals.-Use a rat tail file or dremel to make the holes on the T25 dump closer together, or cut the T28 dump tube to fit.-If the stock gaskets for the turbo pipes are good you can re-use them with some silicone, or buy new ones (total of 5 at around $70 total)-Use the oem locking plates for the turbo bolts

Once it's together I'll post some pics.


Modified by CMG at 7:33 PM 12/17/2008

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CMG
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mi240sx wrote:
My fault, sorry, see I thought this was a forum $_@))$@_)$@)*$%)#
Sorry to bite your head off, I was just pissed about doing battle with that broken stud. Check the info I posted, more to come. You'll be paying too much if you buy from frsport, and the only thing you listed that you need is the CS lines which can be had for cheaper elsewhere. (+1 to askme4parts, great seller on ebay)

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CMG
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Disregard everything I wrote up until now, or at least most of it. Finally got it up and running today. This is some of what you do.-CS SS Lines-Re-Clocked plates-Locking Tabs-Use S14 T28 oil drain pipe not T25-Put on SS lines before you put in turbo onto engine-Modify the water in hard line (cut it off) mount SS line to that using better hose clamp than one provided (the CS one sucks and is not metric, so hard to tighten and easy to strip)

Here's the re-clocked platesNote the locking tabs, disregard the S13 oil drain. Use the S14 T28 Oil Drain tube to clear the steering knuckle and then use S13 drain pipe hose.Once more note locking tabs and make sure they're flush with side of nutI used an exhaust manifold spacer to tighten in the oil inlet fitting, perfect fit

I'll take more pics next week of the install and some other stuff.

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CMG
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Also use the stock S13 banjo bolt for oil in (this is where the restrictor is), and use one crush washer on inside for right fit.

Now that that is taken care of I can focus on putting in the ARC SMIC, HKS BOV, Turbo XS MBC and Koyo w/ Altima fans & Dif and I'll be good for a while.

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CMG
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Been running the car fine and everything that I noted about the swap above works and fits great. Hits spool faster and is small improvement in HP so far. A few more upgrade and I'll be at 300 and be done with the engine for now. I'll post pics of the set up installed soon.

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johnnyballs180
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awesome, dude.

i used the factory exhaust manifold initially, but after a month or so i got a SLIGHTLY better one.. i shouldn't have skimped out though; it's starting to crack.. but otherwise the manifold was a huge difference, as well as the turbo elbow.

how much boost are you running?

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CMG
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I have used two aftermarket tubular manifolds, and both cracked, that's why I use the stock log one. From what I feel the stock mani takes a little while longer to hit boost, but holds it longer. I use a Tomei elbow and full 3" exhaust w/ track pipe. When I swapped I extended the stock boost control solenoid wiring and am still running that, so I'm about 7-8psi believe. I have ARC SMIC and HKS BOV and XS Power MBC and Samco hoses that I am putting on soon, that's when I'll start boosting.

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drftsx
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Are you planning on bigger injectors, 300zx maf, and a afc, or reflash?


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