Rebuilt my KA24E

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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nvrplzd240
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Lol I did the same thing with my single cam (rip) when I put it back together. That damn tooth had me fooled for a while as to why It was extremely rough and I couldn't get a timing mark


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240sxmech
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Well from what it sounds like with the valvetrain noise is that you didnt even break the motor in because if you had you wouldnt have valve noise after the break in. If you didnt break that motor in I feel sorry for you. Hope your bearings last ya, you better pray to the bearing gods, but if ya did break it in then dont worry about what i said and have fun boosting that pig.

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240sxmech
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Also i see no external ground coming from your AFM i would run one if a was you they are notoreous for having a bad ground

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Neejay
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Nice. How long did it take you from beginning to end to rebuild?

And also, is there any difference between a Z32 clutch and a D21 clutch?

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nelson8708
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240sxmech wrote:Well from what it sounds like with the valvetrain noise is that you didnt even break the motor in because if you had you wouldnt have valve noise after the break in. If you didnt break that motor in I feel sorry for you. Hope your bearings last ya, you better pray to the bearing gods, but if ya did break it in then dont worry about what i said and have fun boosting that pig.
That was the first start up. I am still breaking in the motor. I only have 72 miles on it.

I would say from beginning to end it took about 4 months for the rebuild. To tell you the truth i broke it down in about two weeks working on it once a night. Then it took about three weeks to put it back together. I didnt work on it every night though. So spread out about 5 weeks working on it once a night for maybe 45min to a hour over 4 months. As for the clutch i dont know if there is a difference but the truck (d21) clutch is way cheaper. With the d21 flywheel you can run any 240mm clutch if it has the right splines. From what i have read you can run RB series clutches, 300zx clutches, d21 clutches, and even the 280z turbo clutches (also cheap like the d21 clutch). The rumor is that the d21 and 280z clutch can hold a lot of torque.

scared the **** out of myself tonight. On the way home from work i was on the transition ramp from one interstate to another and had to down shift to pass a semi. As soon as i got on it a little the engine started to freak out on me. It was sputtering and everything. So i roll for about a mile and stop on the sholder of the interstate.(I work nights so i couldnt see anything) It was still idleing but just barely. I see some black smoke coming from the tail pipe so i thought she was done for. I pop the hood and see the manifold is red hot agian. So she runs good enought to get to the next exit about a mile away on the shoulder. So i get to the exit and pull into the first parking lot with a light and shut her off. I look under the hood and one of the couplers popped off. I dont know if the motor moved or if i hit a little boost but it was off. So i get it back on and she was still sputtering for a second but after a small rev to 3k to clean her out she runs fine agian. I guess the black smoke was from it running rich when the maf was off. That was a scary night.

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Neejay
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Yeah. I know its the 280zx Turbo clutch kit + D21 flywheel, but I didnt know you could use the D21 clutch as well.

The part numbers are different for the D21 clutch vs. 280zx-T clutch. I think Im going to stick with the 280zx-T clutch just incase...

Thanks though.

wa-chiss
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Car: 1990 Nissan S13 H/C KA24E
2005 Toyota Sequoia
1976 Honda CB750F Super Sport
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Hey, whats up with your valve cover? were the fins filled in? I know it wasn't grinded down cause the letters are still there. I need to rebuild my SOHC soon.

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240sxmech
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What i was talking about was your initial breakin when you first started it up after your rebuild. Did you just start it and let it idle there and then noticed your mani glowing?

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nelson8708
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actually i did use a grinder to take the fins off the valve cover. I just tried to keep the letters.

For the intial break in i first primed the system by removing the fuel pump fuse. I cranked the engine over about 4-5 times until the oil light went out. Then i started it and had to hold it at about quater throttle to keep it at idle then after about 15-20seconds of that it would idle by itself and i then got out and saw the mani and shut the motor off and put fans on everything. That is when i got a timing light and fixed it.

I checked tonight and i was off on the timing by about three degrees advanced over the stock 15 degrees. Good thing i havent got on it and run premium fuel. So to play it safe i timed it agian and am running about 13 degrees. The mani was still a little red even only being off by 3 degrees. God i feel stupid but lucky the motor is still holding together.

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240sxmech
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Damn dude you better pray to the motor gods. The way you break a motor in is when you start it you hold it at around 2 grand for about 20 minutes so the rings seat and the bearings get a smooth seat against the crank and rods and to break the cam in. YOU NEVER DO WHAT YOU DID I FEEL SORRY THAT NO ONE HAS TOLD YOU THAT. DONT GET ON TILL YOU ATLEAST PUT A THOUSAND MILES ON THE MOTOR AND CHANGE THE OIL AFTER 500 OR YOU RUN THE CHANCE OF SPINNING A BEARING.

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nelson8708
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Actually i talked to a few motor building companys like HRT, Stewert Engines and a few people who have built 700hp honda engines. They said nothing about holding it at 2K for 20min. I have never heard that from anyone including ivan. Other than the timing issue i am following their break in process step by step.

1. After the initial start and 5 minutes of running change the oil.2. Change the oil at 250miles3. Change the oil at 500miles4. Change the oil at 1000 miles

You were right about one thing though...i am going to babie it for 1K miles before i get on it. Even though the engine builders said that 500 to 750 miles is enough.
Modified by nelson8708 at 10:23 PM 3/21/2007

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240sxmech
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You can listen to them all you want and i will say they are dumb as hell you have to seat your rings or your not gonna get good power you have to let the surfaces mate with each other or your gonna spin a bearing and you have to let the cam break in if your running a new one. Do what ya want just trying to lend some advice i work at a Auto repair and machine shop and we build circle track race engines trust me when i tell you how to break a motor in.Especially that your boosting if you dont seat the rings were do you think that boost is gonna go, right by your rings and your not gonna get the power you should. I was right about everything i said.

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nelson8708
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Ok, but i didnt get a new cam. I have trust in the person who built the highest hp KA motor to date knows what he is talking about. I am not saying that your wrong. I what you said in mind the next motor i build.


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