rebuilding my engine soon to go turbo

[ca240]

alright...i've now pretty much made my final decisions on this rebuild as far as parts and what i will have done...my goals for horsepower and torque are only going to be about 250, until i go boost crazy and end up like the rest of you guys, planning on doing a t3 setup...anyways...tell me how you think this rebuild sounds to be puttin a turbo on in a couple months

on the machine work i'll just be taking my block, pistons, rods, and crank to the shop...i'm expecting for the worst and everything to be a little off since the engine was overheating at 175000 miles so here's what i'm planning to do with the block...

Machine Work-Magnaflux, Align Hone, Bore Over, and install Freeze Plugs………………………….$75.00-Turn Crank………………………………….$110.00-Hot Tank……………………………………….$80.00-Recondition Rods and Pistons………...$120.00-Surface Block………………………………..$75.00Total Price…………………………………………….$460.00

Then I will be installing the following parts myself

Rebuild Parts

Topline Platinum Engine Kit EKD28P-Complete Gasket Set-Pistons w/ Rings (.010 or .020 over)-Main and Rod Bearings( .010 or .020 over)-Timing Kit-Front and Rear Oil Seals-Oil PumpPrice………..…………………...………………$419.00

Topline Water PumpWPD28 Price………………………………$33.00

Head Bolt KitHBD28 Price………………………………………….$33.00

(4) injector O-rings $12.00

(4)Top and Bottom injector Holders $32.00

Perfection Hytest OEM Clutch Kit MU475941Price……………………………………………….$95.88

Total....1086.88

i talked to the machine shop today and he said i should really lean towards doin it myself to save some money rather than havin them do it and as long as i've got the manual i'm good to go...i think i've got everything covered on that list just lemme know if it sounds good and all the prices sound good

BTW...my head has already been completely dissassembled and head several things done to take everything back to specs and has new retainers...the head has not been put back on the engine and is still sitting in my room

[ca240]

so anyone have any kinda input?...also how should i go about breakin in my engine and breakin in the clutch...thanks

[andrave]

follow the manufacturer's break in procedures. If you are planning on higher boost int he future it might make sense to go ahead and pay another 150 or so and get a more aggressive clutch.

[fiznat]

youd better know what youre doin if you wanna do the assembly yourself... fitting pistons/rings and installing the right bearings is no joke man.

...also I dont see any boring and honing in your price list. If you want to install overbore pistons you're gonna have to match the cyl to them... Why are you paying to recondition the rods and pistons if youre gonna get a new set anyways? Also, youre gonna need to have everything balanced as well...

[C-Kwik]

It's not actually as hard as you may think Fiznat. Just take your time and do things carefully. Torque everything properly. Boring isn't really a big deal either. Piston manufacturers usually provide the exact bore you will need. Any competent machine shop should be able to do the work with little fuss.

[ca240]

fiznat...boring and honing is on my list under the machine work list...the rods are being are being reconditioned and the pistons are being put on them is what i meant where it said recondition rods and pistons

[Altiman94]

i would suggest you choose a different clutch. I installed that clutch in my 240sx when I first got it, and it only lasted me 3 months (2000 miles) It was a very poor quality clutch and it didnt grab near as well as a stock clutch would.

[Checkered-Member]

My suggestion will be to get a newer block, for around 500 Americas you can get your hands on a KA with less then 20K miles.

Get that tare it apart clean it, replace all gasket and seals, replace what you need (pistons, rings,)

All should be around the same $1000, if you do everything yourself.

[TrunkMonkey]

My suggestion will be to get a newer block, for around 500 Americas you can get your hands on a KA with less then 20K miles.

Get that tare it apart clean it, replace all gasket and seals, replace what you need (pistons, rings,)

All should be around the same $1000, if you do everything yourself.

if he's rebuilding, what would be the purpose of finding a newer block?

-demetrius

[WAbernethy]

You can get that same rebuild set for like 250 from hublersengines.com. Definately need to get a better clutch. You can prolly get a decent stage 2 for around 250. Anything cheaper than that is probably crap.

[ca240]

well about the clutch i was just gonna keep it til i go boost or til it just goes to crap...i wanna do that clutch/ saw disk thing that hugeuptj or whatever his name is was doin...if his was lastin i would just try that...the car's been sittin in my driveway for about 4 or 5 months now so i'm ready to get it goin kinda cheap...i'll check out that other site for the engine build kit...thanks for all the input

[ca240]

i believe i will be going with the flatlander racing rebuild kit now...i did some searchin on the forums tonite and found out that the kit they sell is actually a topline kit...i'll have to call to confirm this...anyone have any satisfaction or dissatisfaction with this kit?...thanks

[huguetpj]

i wanna do that clutch/ saw disk thing that hugeuptj or whatever his name is was doin...if his was lastin i would just try that...

Make sure you can get stuff for cheap and also labor, before doing anything like that. I saved a lotta money, but I can get labor for dirt cheap down here and also I have to add customs and shipping from Miami to anything I have to buy from the US.

[ca240]

well..if all goes well i should be sending my block off to my machine shop within a week...i'll take pics and update you guys soon...see ya

[Nathan]

Good luck!

[3rD GeAr]

a good alternative clutch would be the daikin exedy clutch. I have one on my ka24et and it holds 15psi just fine and only cost me 100 bucks shipped. good luck you can pick one up here or on ebayhttp://www.clutchcityonline.com/nissan_240sx.h ... rs...yment

[ca240]

thanks man...previously i hadn't heard good stuff out of exedy but now i might give it a try...how long you been usin it?...thanks

[pearlwhite95]

i recently just did a complete rebuild on my 4g63t and it was my fist time and it was fairly easy just as long as you keep all your old parts in order and dont loose any! also make sure its in a very clean place because you dont want any dirt or dust getting into your new bearings. i had it all the machine work and i think it ran me somewhere around $250.00 that included, polishing my crank, boring it 30 over, hot tank, switching my new pistons to my rods , checking and machining one rod. you wont need to get it balanced if you go with stock replacement pistons or rods wouldnt hurt though. and i used the "top line" brand and most of it was allright except for the major oil leak from the front main seal. and as far as the clutch! i dont know how well they work with our 240's but the act brand did wonders for my dsm!

[pearlwhite95]

as for the break in method! theres two diffrent ways that i know of. 1st. take your ignition fuse out or your coil and crank it over for a good 30 sec or more to get the oil pressure built up, start it and let it run until it reaches full temp. overchecking everything while you wait. go to a road where you can accelerate from 30 to 50 then decelerate back to 30 by not giving it any gas and repeat that i think like 13 times. and keep from going a constant speed for long periods of time, try to make it a lot of stop and go but not bringing the rpms above like 4500 and after 2,000 miles its done the other is BEAT IT. i will try to find the web page that the guy believes this to be the best way, either way would prob work the same but you just wanna make sure you dont go a steady speed. try to take back roads instead of highways or better stop and goand also make sure you dont use any synthetic oil for at least 3,000 miles after the break in or the rings wont seat right, just use a good basic oil and change it often.

[andrave]

yeah or just use cheap *** break in oil.isn't daiken the OE manufacturer for the 240 clutch?

[02_silver_wagon]

Actually as far as beakin porcess goes my friend just rebuild his turboed civic and he found this website by a top motorcycle builder. He suggested basically beating the **** out of the engine right out of the box. Always keep a load on the engine ie. accelerating or decelerating with the engine. And use cheap dino napa no detergent oil.

[pearlwhite95]

yea, thats the guy im talking about, he says that it works on all 2 and 4 stroke motors! you said your freind used this method? i agree to it but not 100% i still think you shouldnt rev. it up too much just because with the new rings they will get very hot and would prob. hurt them seating right. i broke mine in by beating it but to a point and it worked great for me. i used the walmart brand oil for the break in period because its real cheap **** but i used the best oil filter by fram and changed it every 200 miles

[huguetpj]

isn't daiken the OE manufacturer for the 240 clutch?

Exedy Daikin, yep, http://www.daikin-clutch.com/

And at least all Nissan clutches I've seen so far.

[ca240]

welp, i still dont know what clutch i'm gonna go with...still tryin to get all the machine work finished up..i'll let you guys know how it goes

[ca240]

welp...the machine shop said it'd be ready by the end of last week and it's this week so the block should be ready tomorrow...i'm gonna go pick it up tomorrow and go ahead and order the ultra rebuild kit while i'm there...hopefully i can start buildin the engine by next weekend, would be nice...but yeah...just though i'd let you know what's goin on with my rebuild...i'll take some pics of everything brand new and update you guys next weekend...later

[smokey86678667]

Hey, I have a friend that breaks in all of his talons like this and his latest one makes 550 at all four wheels.

First he starts the car and lets it warm up to operating temp. then shuts it off, lets it cool down completely, and repeats the process one more time. After it has cooled the second time, start it and let it warm up one more time then drive it around the block. While your driving it, start accelerating (NOT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, YOUR NOT LOOKING TO BUILD BOOST OR JUST RAISE H***)and bring it all the way up to around 6,000 rpm or so(WHAT EVER IS ABOUT 1,000 RPM AWAY FROM REDLINE FOR YOU) LETTING THE transmission SLOW THE ENGINE BACK DOWN. Do that a couple of times and your done, just drive it normal. He does it with all his and he swears by it.

As far as the clutch I always use an ACT 2100 6puch, but I now someone with an awd talon that has an exedy and he has put probbably 5,000 miles on it and it holds up good.

Thanks, Ben:)

[ca240]

as far as break in i believe i'm gonna go with the procedure where you let it warm up...then get up to second gear and get to 30, then accelerate til 50, then engine brake back down to 30 and do it like 10 or 15 times...i'll talk to the guys at the machine shop to get a final opinion though...seems like basically you just wanna put some high compression and high vacuum and the engine after warming it up at the very beginning...and use crappy non-synthetic oil...later

[slipnfall]

IIRC, it is good practice to keep rev's higher than normal durring break-in, at the same time never letting them(rev's) stay constant.

Supposidly, this may cause premature wear on the main bearings in some shape or another. (excessive linear load on the bearing while not fully seated yet?? -shrug- )

Maybe someone can back me on this.. I'm not much of a gear head.

[smokey86678667]

IIRC, it is good practice to keep rev's higher than normal durring break-in, at the same time never letting them(rev's) stay constant.

Supposidly, this may cause premature wear on the main bearings in some shape or another. (excessive linear load on the bearing while not fully seated yet?? -shrug- )

Maybe someone can back me on this.. I'm not much of a gear head.

True,true

I would say thats about right, plus by reving the engine to high RPM's, it lets the rings seat as high and low in the cylinders as they will ever need to travel. That way you dont have to worry about breaking them later on.Thanks, Ben:)

[ca240]

i'm goin to pick up the block and the whole rebuild kit...statin to rebuild on sunday...

i saw somethin up at the machine shop..some lubricant for the bearings...should i use this? and are there other lubricants i need to use while buildin my engine?

thanks