rb26 jun oil pump broke! WHAT THE F!!!!!!!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
USsil80
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R32ONP wrote:dayyymmm +1 for the knowledge in that post ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :)
toad that is your one smart statement for the decade... back to your hole... and let me get one of those motors you have sitting around


FAST-DATSUN
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post some good pic of the broken rotor So the crank engagement can be seen. lenght is a indiactor; but clearance or to much of it can also brake the rotor with on-off throttle driving of a road course. 20 PSI at idle hot is fine and 10 PSI per 1k of RPM is normal for most motors.

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USMCgetsome
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HEY TOADx8. I Enjoyed reading your post although what is your suggestion for oil weight that should be used with SULLIVANS setup. Also, more details on where to get your assembly balanced.

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toadx8u
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It all depends on how you build your motor...my tolerances are on the loose side so it will make more power...but for a spot on rebuilt motor id say 5w-30, 10w-30 for a stock motor straight from the docks for normal driving and 10w-40 for track days...

I'm currently running non synthetic to break in my new motor... but ill switch to full synthetic after about 5000

If anyone has any other opinions do tell...

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USMCgetsome
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toad i appreciate the quick reply and knowledge you give our forum. Thank U!

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SullivanRacing06
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thanks for the info, ill be ordering a tomei high volume pump this go around, the bearings show no signs of wear or failure ill drop the rotating assembly off at the machine shop in tampa that glenn uses. so ill be ordering another set of acl race bearings today if i ever get back to the shop

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RustspecS13
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Stuff like this makes me want to do a dry sump. Only thing is to find the space for it...

~Alex

Sil240
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Look into an accusump.
It's a pressurized canister that holds a quart or two of oil.

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SullivanRacing06
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yes ive thought about this before, maybe ill do one

julio
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Any pics of the pump failure? Did the screws back out of the plate or was a gear failure?

Yellow4g63
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RustspecS13
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Sil240 wrote:Look into an accusump.
It's a pressurized canister that holds a quart or two of oil.
I know the difference. Accusumps are great for what they are advertised for. Starting up pressure, maintaining pressure in high g cornering where sometimes it might fall off, and in the event of a failure.

I want a dry sump to eliminate that failure. With the accusump, and a stock/stock style pump, you bang off the limiter or rev it high (7-8-8.5K) and theres always a risk of the gear breaking. The accusump provides pressure and you save your motor, but you still have a broken oil pump and maybe metal in your oil.

The dry sump would never have that problem. And if your that paranoid about it you can wire an ignition cut to a pressure switch. Below 15-20psi? Cuts ignition. But then your good for any rpm you want and it really wont ever break. And oil pooling in the head wont be a problem either.

~Alex

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SullivanRacing06
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i ended up ordering another oem pump, not to worried about the god damm oil pump ne more, the jun pump tore up the snout of my brad f*** new n1 r33 crank so... i guess im going to install a crank collar... the journals are not messed up so thats godd

ItzGenX
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Disect your jun pump yet? Pics!

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SullivanRacing06
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yepp pulled the motor apart.. all the journals are still great but the oil pump drive is ruined because the pump snapped in three pieces..

ordered a

oem pump
new r33 n1 crank
acl race bearings

pulling the transmission apart tonight or tomorrow to replace the bearings in that

ItzGenX
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Was your old crank damaged beyond repair aka fitting a collar onto it?

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SullivanRacing06
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the collar needs to be replaced.. i dont trust any machine shops around here to do that sort of work, i tried a few in tampa and they r telling me 400-350 to install it, so i figure spend the extra 250 and get a new crank and keep this one for a "backup"
whats your email ill send you pics of the oil pump if youll post them for me

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Carl H
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your machine shop sucks...mine installed all of the collars on my engines and it was only 50$...

ItzGenX
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SullivanRacing06 wrote:the collar needs to be replaced.. i dont trust any machine shops around here to do that sort of work, i tried a few in tampa and they r telling me 400-350 to install it, so i figure spend the extra 250 and get a new crank and keep this one for a "backup"
whats your email ill send you pics of the oil pump if youll post them for me
pm sent

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SullivanRacing06
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yes the only thing gainesville has to offer is UF just because of the girls, not the football team


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