Rb25det Coil replacement Debate!!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
gawdzilla
Posts: 2028
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2004 11:51 am
Car: none

Post

keep in mind that the splitfires are cheaper than oem, so i did not expect magic. oem is 105ish a coil, and splitfires are about 450-550 depending where you buy.

Darius - if i could ge tthem back before this weekend that would be ideal. i'm trying to put my new setup together this weekend. i think if you mail by tuesday it will reach me by friday.


rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

Post

Well I have decided not to go with any oem replacement coils. LOL I know I change my mind alot.

Reasons. When I switch to my propane fuel I am not going to need all the wiring under the hood and also the stock ecu sucks!! So im going to eliminate it all by going with a Megasquirt ECU for spark and GM coils to back it up. So all I will be using the Megasquirt for is timing.

BTW I will have a good update on the Propane thread here shortly!!

User avatar
Kansei240sx
Posts: 1356
Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 10:17 am
Car: S13 - RB25 Circuit car
71 240z - street/track day car
AE86 - Daily Drizzle/track day car
Z31t - Paper weight/street car
Contact:

Post

Check the input voltage to your coils while its running and under full load using really long test leads on the multimeter and have someone watching in the passenger seat.

If it is lower than system voltage, check the input voltage to the Ignitor, if the ignitor is getting lower than system voltage, keep going back untill you find your problem.

Also, brilliant IDEA on the flexane 94 method to the coil packs, it just makes perfect sense, distributor ignition systems do this **** all the time on KA24DE/T setups because the spark plug wire if close enough to another wire or an earth source will cause a hesistation, which calls for another set of plug wires or coating them, i never even thought about doing this to coil packs. Im going to try it out when i get my 240 running again before i decide whether or not im going the LS coil route.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

Sounds good fellas.

Gawdzilla - I am shipping your coils back to you today. I'm assuming I am shipping them back to the address that you sent them from, right?

gawdzilla
Posts: 2028
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2004 11:51 am
Car: none

Post

Darius wrote:Gawdzilla - I am shipping your coils back to you today. I'm assuming I am shipping them back to the address that you sent them from, right?
emailed you

l0nestar
Posts: 2251
Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:24 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 250SX
2004 Toyota Altezza
1963 Chevy Impala SS
Contact:

Post

Darius wrote:That's good because my damn girlfriend hasn't even picked them up from the post office yet. Pisses me off. Sleeps til 11, then complains that she barely had time to make it to work by 1:00...
Hmm. Where have I heard that before...

Anyways, Darius, did you order the Flexane originally for doing mounts / sub-frame inserts? Also, did you use convoluted tubing and wrap your coil-pack harness? Nifty Idea!

I didn't think about using Epoxy, I remember back a year or 2 ago, somebody made a post about cleaning / sanding the bottom of the coils for better grounding.

I think all of us are smacking our foreheads and thinking "It's so obvious!". I may put this on my 'winter project list' -- at least inspecting each coil.

@Kansei,What happened to your RB? Haven't seen you around much!

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

I bought the flexane for the transmission isolator originally and had some leftover.

I also rewrapped the coil harness with corrugated wire carrier to help prevent a grounding issue that left me stranded once. I'd still like to cut that b_tch apart and redo it completely to separate the power wire from the grounding wires.

Cleaning the coil contacts might help too, but my coil pack springs and contacts looked clean already. Wouldn't be a bad thing to do since it IS free.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

I think your talking about me with the sanding. I did the epoxy paint covering thing, and it helped a bit, but it was still breaking up bad up top. It just took longer to start. I removed the rubber boot, twisted out the spring, and stuck a dremel down in there for a sec to make the brass shiny again. They work awesome now. Still have them in the car, and I daily drive it around 1.8 bar and over 600hp. Splitfires are no better than good stockers.

O, and my buddy had a missing problem also (stock turbo). He didn't have any epoxy or anything, but he already had the coils out for inspection. I told him to do the dremel trick and it fixed his problem.

I say do both. The hardest most time consuming part is removing the coil packs, so as long as they are out, might as well do both. It free.99 other than the price of the flexane/epoxy.

kouki-gymkhana
Posts: 624
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2003 11:54 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX (only 90,000 mi!)

Post

I too am having problems with ignition break up around 3500 rpm. I'm in the process of checking for a boost leak but I think I'd like to touch up the coils too. Do you think Liquid Electrical Tape will be sufficient? I don't have access to Flexane and it seems like a better option than epoxy. All I need to do is to coat the coils with an electrically insulating medium, right?

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

Yes. You are simply trying to keep the spark inside the coil to force it down to the plug. Any good insulator will work.


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”