RB25DE engine.......help

[bodydrager]

hi my name is josh im new to the RB world ....and the site..i have some questions ..ok it a 95 rb35de i have seen some people talk about different series and im lost ... there... im looking for a non turbo header cant find any on ebay ... so needing one also a ecu and a engine harness ...ok also i was wondering will all the rb stuff inner change like valve covers cam gears and so on....and also i was wondering about itbs were can i find some if i would want to do the swap... also i have heard of people that have turbo a non turbo rb i would be worring about blowing it up so thats why i pretty much just want to be non turbo... and put some boltons on it like fuel rail fuel reg bigger injectors cams cam gears and some pullies if the rb stuff will inner change any help will be great this motor is going in my 89 nissan hardbody truck... thanks for the help im kinda on a budget so thats why i was wanting to do bolt on stuff now and then i will tear down the block and do a monster build.... i dont get on much but i will try to get on here every other day...just pm me or send me a email at [email protected] thanks for all the help

[bodydrager]

bump can anyone help me

[l0nestar]

Slow down there Poncho..

Why did you pick up a DE (non-turbo) motor?

Quick info on the motors:http://en.wakopedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine.

[l0nestar]

Here is some more info:

zerothread/135400

Read up on the stickies man.

[Sil240]

Yeah... Why did you get the DE???Was it free??

I'm only ASSUMING, that the DET harness and ECU would work. Does the DE have VCT?If not then you could rock a RB20 ecu chipped or a Z32 ecu chipped but you'll have to re-pin a couple wires.

Pullies the Z32 water pump is similar, so is the Alternator. But they are different diameters.

Headers you'll have to look on Trademe.nz or Japanese ebay yahoo thing, can't remember.Or custom. I've never seen a RB header (non-turbo)Maybe email SSautocrap or any of the Chinese ebay people. They might be able to get it for you.

As far as ITB's you'll have to custom something.Blitz makes a adapter plate to use the RB26 ITB's on a RB25. (assuming the DE bolt flange is the same as the DET)

Valve Covers and Cam Gears should be the same. Cams are useable, but you probably wouldn't want to use them. I the the overlap would be the difference, but I'm not sure.

Fuel Rail and injectors would be the same.But.... not really needed. The DET has 370 injectors like the SR and the Z32 you could use those.

But I'm sure you could rock a stock 25 T and manifold on low boost and you'd be fine. WITH A TUNE!!

[bodydrager]

thanks for the help and more is welcome ... the reason i got a de is cause i dont think i can fit it all under the hood of my d21 truck that sits on the ground on 18s and i got it at a really good deal.... what is a VCT???? like i said im new to the rb world....

[Sil240]

IMO the width of the engine bay should be able to fit the turbo etc.

I believe there are other D21's with RB25DET's in them.

Now with your truck sitting on the Ground, that may interfere with the Oil Pan.Custom mounts and Skid plate are def in your future. With ANY RB.

I'd try to return it.!!!And get a RB25DET

VCT/VTC - Variable Cam Timing or Variable Timing Control???? Can't remember

[Carl H]

i think an na rb25 would be a pretty fun little swap in a pickup.just about everything that will fit onto a det will drop into a de meaning cams, springs, cam gears, valve covers, ballancers...ect.harnesses are the same for the most part with the turbo engine having wiring for a boost solenoid and a few other bits but other than that its identical...ecu is NA specific.fujitsubo makes a SUPER nice header but i can gaurentee it will be money...might want to buy a flange from some company and make your own.

[bodydrager]

thanks carl h that helps a bunch what do you think about boosting a stock de motor tho... if it will fit.. if i boost it should i buy the det ecu then... and were can i get a header flange at and i will make my own .... like i said im new to the rb world so any info will help ... im making this truck for show and go thats why i was asking if any rb stuff inter changes im looking a a polished intake and i want to put a fuel rail and i was wondering can i take the cam gear cover off and leave it off ... what cam gears should i get and fuel rail do they make diff pullies cause there is no ac no power sterring either any stuff like that

[MrCedric]

Howdy to everyone.

My status is I have an 87 Cedric project in Bangkok. I'm running a non turbo RB25DE engine with a 5 speed manual. I opted for the non turbo because of the outrageous temps possible here. I find the non turbo version of this engine just fine with bad traffic and this basic engine has enough power to run down most sedans you will find here, so I'm satisfied.
This post is about input concerning NGK Iridium spark plugs for the RB25DE engine. I have read that the NGK plug PFR6X11 is the preferred pick for turbo engine. My question is going hotter on my non turbo engine be a safe option? (NGK PFR5K-11?)
I'm also open to suggestions about upgraded ignition coils. Split Fire??

Thanks, Mr C.

[VStar650CL]

Not sure why you'd want to try going hotter in an environment like Bangkok, generally you'd want to go colder in a very warm climate. A few thousand klicks on the new plugs will tell you what's right, look for a nice color on the porcelain between burnt orange and cocoa. In a hot climate, light brown or beige may be eventual trouble. Driving style and fuel quality affect plug burn as much as climate and general engine health, so if you're serious about getting it right for your particular ride, let your engine tell you what it wants.

[MrCedric]

Vstar,
Thank for your common sense reply. Yes, the plug would tell the tale. I'm trying to get some background experience about my non boosted engine. What I gather, heat range 6 on the iridium plug is normal, 7 and up for boosted apps and 5 is hotter and may be applicable for me even in a hotter climate for complete burn and better efficiency?

[VStar650CL]

Running higher cylinder temperatures doesn't necessarily translate to enhanced combustion, and that's really what plug color is telling you, burn temperature. Higher temperatures increase the chances for preignition after shutdown and spark knock under load. The latter unnecessarily forces the ECM to dial back advance, so it can actually reduce performance and efficiency instead of increasing them. Keep in mind that what's going on in a healthy cylinder is a controlled burn, not an explosion. That's what spark knock is, and why the correct name for it is detonation. It's never healthy.

Hotter may give you the right color, depending on your driving habits and all the other factors that affect cylinder temperature. Or you may find you need colder, or no adjustment at all. You'll never go wrong if you simply aim for the best color, which is medium brown.

[MrCedric]

V,

Once again, I thank you for logical input. All things considered, the engine runs smoothly and performs as expected throughout it's workout. Sometimes though, it may stall in gridlock as well as resist smooth starting after warmed up driving. This irritates me immensely. My thought goes to an inadequate ignition system. My current sparkplugs color are tan to white (perhaps lean) but I have a turbosmart fuel back pressure regulator that dialed down seems to aliviate hard starting symptoms. Perhaps my oem coil packs are weary?

Thanks

[VStar650CL]

More often than not, hot-restart problems are fuel related and not ignition. But I can tell you for certain that a white burn isn't healthy, especially in a climate like Bangkok. You're correct that the hot burn could be from running slightly lean. The Turbosmart instructions don't specify the vacuum-applied pressure curve, so that could actually be causing both your hot-start issue and the lean burn. Have you measured your pressures at idle with and without vacuum?

[MrCedric]

I will check at first opportunity.

Thank you