RB25 Turbo Upgrade

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:38 pm
Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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lets get down to business here broski......
FPR UPGRADE YES.
COIL PACK UPGRADE.... Is there any issues with them currently? They could hold but you need to see what happens.

OIL PUMP/CRANK COLLAR.... might want to get up in there and give it a check and see if any probs in this area.
ROD BOLTS iirc are a must at upgrading when moving up to higher hp.

Before you start tuning get all the bugs worked out 1st. That way it all goes smoothly when your on the dyno.


716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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Getting everything ready for dyno this week. The final list of upgrades is as follows:
-AEM Series 2
-PURE Turbos 450 HP Billet Turbo
--4AN Oil Feed Line
-Nismo/Jecs 720cc Injectors
-DW 300 Fuel Pump
-TurboSmart FPR
-AEM UEGO Wideband
-MAP/IAT Sensors
-Fluid, Seals, Gaskets refreshed where needed.

Decided I probably wouldn't run high enough boost to run into the coil issue so I left them stock for now.

Now I have a few questions as I start wrapping things up.
1.) I have to install the AEM CAS Trigger Disc still and am worried about tackling this myself at the moment. Does it simply swap directly into place or do I have to worry about it's position, timing, anything tricky at all when installing? Or do I simply remove the cover, take out the old one, and replace it with the AEM Disc?
2.) At first my FPR would show a drop in pressure but I found a leak and fixed it. I read some places to set the pressure to 43-45 psi, but when I try and do it how I read it does not adjust pressure. I read to allow the pump to build pressure, remove the vaccuum line, and set the pressure to the desired value. Does the engine need to be running? I cannot figure out what I am missing.

Also, if I am missing anything crucial to supporting this build let me know.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Engine needs to be running to set the fuel pressure

716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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I started to figure as much when it wasn't working. Bump on the CAS Trigger Disc Info.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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716RB wrote:I started to figure as much when it wasn't working. Bump on the CAS Trigger Disc Info.
There is a big AEM EMS thread on here somewhere that describes how to change the CAS disc out. I don't think it is terribly difficult, but I know the info is on here somewhere.

chad b.
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Car: chocolate chip kouki
Location: Mobile, AL

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It's a lot easier than the instructions. You don't have to beat the bearing off the shaft. You can grab the sides of the screws that hold the shaft to the base with a pair of needle nose vice grips. They come out easy. The rest is a breeze.

716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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chad b. wrote:It's a lot easier than the instructions. You don't have to beat the bearing off the shaft. You can grab the sides of the screws that hold the shaft to the base with a pair of needle nose vice grips. They come out easy. The rest is a breeze.
Yeah I ended up stumbling across a post of yours in someone elses "help me" thread. I'll have to give that a shot.

Also, Just picked up some copper BCPR7ES plugs and I cannot find a straight answer on what to gap them to. Ive seen everything from .25 all the way to leaving them at the pre gapped .8

716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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In addition to my previous post for reference for the gapping question, I plan on between 15-20 lbs of boost most likely. Depends on the results on the dyno.

Largekid
Posts: 331
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 11:24 am
Car: '96 RB S14 SE, '04 LS6 CTS-V

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I run mine at .025"

716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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Anyone know If I will have any issues just running a GM 2 Bar MAP sensor?

716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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chad b. wrote:It's a lot easier than the instructions. You don't have to beat the bearing off the shaft. You can grab the sides of the screws that hold the shaft to the base with a pair of needle nose vice grips. They come out easy. The rest is a breeze.
Ok so I've been trying to get this disc done this way you mentioned but I ran into something. I separated the case and removed the three screws through the sensor which scared me because they would catch the edges of the trigger disc loosening them. But now that I'm at that point I cannot find a way to get needlenose under the black sensor to remove the two screws at the base. I cannot get the sensor off because the wheel and bearing portion of the shaft prevent me from getting it out of the way of the screws. I have some pictures here too in irder to show more where I am at.
Image
Image
Image

716RB
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:35 am
Car: RB25 Series 1 Swapped '89 240sx

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My AEM S2 is for sale if anyone on here is interested.


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