RB crank collar / oil pump drive writeup on RACEBREAD

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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Chaos the Xile
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Nice info, especially with the pics! I haven;t ahd that problem yet. But I'm re-building soon so I don't care! JUN Crank Collar!


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BoostFab
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Carl H wrote:dude, the machine shop that rebuilt my engine fitted the collar for 50$...400$ is rediculous.
absolutly $400 is rediculous, that wasn't my word.......... i confirmed back with crankshaft specialist and they charges extending the colar, polised and balance done for just $250. external collar alone is ~$150-200... do the math

Darius
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BoostsFed - Are you talking about having Crankshaft Specialists weld a new drive flank that is wider and pass on the JUN crank collar? We could get into the whole discussion on welding vs. not-welding too. There has already been a thread about that with Wulfgang and JonPowell who are both extremely reputable RB owners. I followed the more conservative no-weld school of thought.

I spent $105 for the collar from nengun plus $106 on the install. $211 total, so slightly cheaper than the $250 quoted.

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BoostFab
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you didn't read correctly $250 includes extending the collar, polished, and balance the crank.

it all come down to personal preference. i myself preferred the welding method, which is permanent--never worry again. versus milled down the crank and slip on the collar and tighten with small Allen screw..... hmmm which is stronger? you already know my answer

Darius
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The price I paid included balancing as well. Not a whole lot to balancing an inline 6 crank as the rod journals counterweight themselves.

As far as reliability goes...I have never heard how much torque it takes to run an oil pump, but if it isn't enough to barely round off the OEM drive flank, its not going to be enough to shear an allen screw. Locktite will prevent the screw from backing out. I'm not the least bit worried.

jdmser
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I didn't think there was even a need for locktite. The oil pump drive goes over top of the allen screw on the collar making it impossible for the screw to back out. At least that's the way it is on my 20.

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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even then its a friction fit where you have to heat the collar to even get it to remotely slip on...done right i doubt it would slip EVAR.why else would jun make a collar if it didnt fix the problem?

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S14-NEO
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx RB25 NEO powered

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sil_eightyRPS13 wrote:
umm doesnt matter....unless its a neo it still has the issue at high RPM's...i had a R33GTR crank and it still happened...collar it or run a dry sump for reasurement
funny you say that cause it is in fact a NEO R34 engine

klh6686
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Yes and I knew it was a neo which is why i said, our neo still had the problem, so it comes down to people who DONT know spreading information that they PERSONALLY aren't sure about. (i'm not referring to you) so do yourself a favor and check yours out as OURS has a standard rb25 08U crank in it. and it is 100% confirmed a neo, i pulled the solid lifters myself.

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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meh, i think it depends on when the motor was made, nissan proly used up the last of the r33 cranks before fitting a newer one, that is if they even updated it.go figure.


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