u can getz a ch33per on3 juss finna h0e wif n0 t33thSoravia wrote:$200 hand job is where i'll be gong myself.
$200 should be full service IMO.Soravia wrote:$200 hand job is where i'll be gong myself.
HA! my paint only cost $2.49 a can!of course, the rustoleum costs $8 bux a pop over here.and my friends dog just HAD to jump ON my car and scratch it up the DAY after I finish painting it.I'm still trying to get myself to spray it over. The car is gloss black and the hood and trunk are flat.(the paint cans got mixed up.)86silvia wrote:the part i like about the spray paint is when or if i have to repair dents or scratches its simple. no clear to blend no color matching and its only $3.50 a can. it looks better in person, yeah there are some flaws but as with most jobs there will be.will do that later when the other side is done.
Full service comes from my homosapian girlfriend. But the Silvia girl will cost about $4,000 for full service at a shop. Includes full stripping down to every single bolt and nut.verSat1l3 wrote:
$200 should be full service IMO.
thats what im wondering too. thats also why i decided on a shade of red cause red loses its pigment the fastest of any color. so other colors should last longer. the $165 was primer, paint and paper. so just color should be quite cheaper. i dont think ill have to re spray it every year just a little color sand and buff if the color holds but if it fades then yeah, urethane time.amolao wrote:Pretty good. It shows what a little extra work and ingenuity can do. A real paint job is not cheap. You can achieve some good results with rattle cans if you take your time. The only question is how long with the job withstand the weather and time. But for $165 dollars??... You can repaint your car every year, if you like....
lacquer also is a harder paint so you'll use more paper and youll have to color sand with a heavier grit. besides in cali lacquer is illegal to spray. fish eyes are cause by contaminents like grease, oils and wax. waxing a car near another getting prepped will cause fish eyes, if the wax has silicone in it. theres stuff u can mix in paints to reduce fish eyes and theres silicone wax grease remover to wipe the surface with too.babowc wrote:lolfish eyes come from mis-prepped surface.
lacquer = bad resistance to solvents and can fade out quickly. at least thats what i've been told.
go with urethane enamel. best by far, most durable.
Harbor Freight sells for $139 a stud welder kit with studs and a slide hammer.Soravia wrote:For dents that can't be pushed from inside (such as behind the door near the bottom) is it a good idea to poke holes and pull with a L tool or is it even going to work? I know that the piller behind the door is really strong to suppor the car frame and nothing like a trunk panel.
no, the only bare metal should be where your bondo/filler goes. any bare metal will need to be sprayed with a self-etching primer/sealer them primed again and so on. just sand down the clear if u got any, expose the base or primer and spray over that. if u got rock nics then learn to feather edge. but thats a whole other story.Soravia wrote:Should I sand a car down to bare metal or should I sand it just enough to reveal the original primer? My car has good primer and I haven't seen rust all over like many others. Only tiny spots of rust where the paint got damaged.
HOW?!?! It looks too good to be true... description/steps/etc...tlkq wrote:Rattlecanned my deck lid
j u ice wrote:i dont buy it its to glose thats out of a pant gun.