rattle can perfection...

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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mandanglelow
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Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx SE Fastback

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looks great! cant wait to do mine


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Soravia
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I've seen $500 paint jobs with fisheye all over for not having wet-sand. $200 hand job is where i'll be gong myself.

bamracing
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:43 pm
Car: 1989 240SX Coupe dirt track race car / 1989 240SX Fastback parts car

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That's way better than I'll need it to look to race in the mud and dirt! Rattle cans here I come!

SPIRONIUM
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Car: 240RS group 2

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Thats very impressive!

I don't know much about painting, do you think this rattle can paint will last or will it fade in the sun?

tlkq
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mine hasnt faded yet but its like 3 layers of color and 3 layers of clear and its been on there for like 6 months

SXFreak
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Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:17 pm
Car: 90 240SX KA24DET

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WOW, Dude. That turned out REALLY NICE!! WTG

Have you guys seen this on Speed and Spike? It's an updated Laquer that comes ready to spray.....http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html

Read about it. I'm planning on using it when I get my 240SX running......I think he he.

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White Comet
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Soravia wrote:$200 hand job is where i'll be gong myself.
u can getz a ch33per on3 juss finna h0e wif n0 t33th

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babowc
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lolfish eyes come from mis-prepped surface.

lacquer = bad resistance to solvents and can fade out quickly. at least thats what i've been told.

go with urethane enamel. best by far, most durable.

verSat1l3
Posts: 291
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Car: 93 S13 Fastback 96 S14 SE

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Soravia wrote:$200 hand job is where i'll be gong myself.
$200 should be full service IMO.


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DJButton
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For a rattle can, that's immpressive, good job!

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sxslut
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Car: 1989 240sx

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WOW!! I can never make rattle can paint come out right..

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PantherRacer
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86silvia wrote:the part i like about the spray paint is when or if i have to repair dents or scratches its simple. no clear to blend no color matching and its only $3.50 a can. it looks better in person, yeah there are some flaws but as with most jobs there will be.will do that later when the other side is done.
HA! my paint only cost $2.49 a can!of course, the rustoleum costs $8 bux a pop over here.and my friends dog just HAD to jump ON my car and scratch it up the DAY after I finish painting it.I'm still trying to get myself to spray it over. The car is gloss black and the hood and trunk are flat.(the paint cans got mixed up.)

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Soravia
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Between Bondo which chips off (I have some on passenger rear fender) and Steel-mix cold-weld, which do you think will be better for fixing dents?I have some dents on my car, most are small tiny ones but a couple are obvious from a distance and are in tight places to pop from the inside.From my experience, Cold-weld can even fix a radiator with very little sanding and harder than a rock-hard stud. Is it a good idea?

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PantherRacer
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I have more experience with Bondo, and none with cold weld. If applied properly and mixed right (provided you use good quality filler of course) it won't chip.I mean, if the cold-weld is metal and you're looking to sell the car to someone who checks with a magnet...then go for it. Filler is quite adequate. Knock out dents, get em as smooth as possible, apply a little bit of filler and you're set.

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Mr1der
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if bondo is done right...it won't chip.

don't mix much hardener in it...too much makes it brittle and porous. when it's right, it'll flex with the car and not fall out after a bump.

just make sure you REALLY knock the dents out, and take your time sanding to make sure it's smooth and even.

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Soravia
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For dents that can't be pushed from inside (such as behind the door near the bottom) is it a good idea to poke holes and pull with a L tool or is it even going to work? I know that the piller behind the door is really strong to suppor the car frame and nothing like a trunk panel.

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Soravia
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verSat1l3 wrote:
$200 should be full service IMO.
Full service comes from my homosapian girlfriend. But the Silvia girl will cost about $4,000 for full service at a shop. Includes full stripping down to every single bolt and nut.

86silvia
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amolao wrote:Pretty good. It shows what a little extra work and ingenuity can do. A real paint job is not cheap. You can achieve some good results with rattle cans if you take your time. The only question is how long with the job withstand the weather and time. But for $165 dollars??... You can repaint your car every year, if you like....
thats what im wondering too. thats also why i decided on a shade of red cause red loses its pigment the fastest of any color. so other colors should last longer. the $165 was primer, paint and paper. so just color should be quite cheaper. i dont think ill have to re spray it every year just a little color sand and buff if the color holds but if it fades then yeah, urethane time.
babowc wrote:lolfish eyes come from mis-prepped surface.

lacquer = bad resistance to solvents and can fade out quickly. at least thats what i've been told.

go with urethane enamel. best by far, most durable.
lacquer also is a harder paint so you'll use more paper and youll have to color sand with a heavier grit. besides in cali lacquer is illegal to spray. fish eyes are cause by contaminents like grease, oils and wax. waxing a car near another getting prepped will cause fish eyes, if the wax has silicone in it. theres stuff u can mix in paints to reduce fish eyes and theres silicone wax grease remover to wipe the surface with too.

all in all if u do decide to paint your car please do some research first. dont just jump right in and waste your money and mess up your car. the guide i posted wasnt even really how i did it. i skipped a few steps. but thats me. dont blame me if your car looks like crap cause u wanted to spray your car too. maaco does decent work and its cheap. or pay someone to do it.

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Soravia
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Should I sand a car down to bare metal or should I sand it just enough to reveal the original primer? My car has good primer and I haven't seen rust all over like many others. Only tiny spots of rust where the paint got damaged.

verSat1l3
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Soravia wrote:For dents that can't be pushed from inside (such as behind the door near the bottom) is it a good idea to poke holes and pull with a L tool or is it even going to work? I know that the piller behind the door is really strong to suppor the car frame and nothing like a trunk panel.
Harbor Freight sells for $139 a stud welder kit with studs and a slide hammer.

heres a linkhttp://www.harborfreight.com/c...=8878

It allows you to spot weld studs that resemble a thin roofing nail flat head side down to the skin of the car. Attach the slid hammer to the studs and you can pop out the most stubborn dents. Then grind off the stud, sand and paint it. It allows you to accomplish essentially the same thing, but without actually drilling holes in the body metal.

theres also a $99 kit that has a slightly smaller welder. For $39 I would buy the bigger one as it accommodates larger studs.

Good luck.

86silvia
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Soravia wrote:Should I sand a car down to bare metal or should I sand it just enough to reveal the original primer? My car has good primer and I haven't seen rust all over like many others. Only tiny spots of rust where the paint got damaged.
no, the only bare metal should be where your bondo/filler goes. any bare metal will need to be sprayed with a self-etching primer/sealer them primed again and so on. just sand down the clear if u got any, expose the base or primer and spray over that. if u got rock nics then learn to feather edge. but thats a whole other story.

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Soravia
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I'm going to redo pretty much the entire outer car paint. The original is red, I'm going to paint it Red/Black. Just trying to prepare and do it right in one shot instead of wasting money. seeing so many cars done wrong at shops makes me feel inconfident about going to any shop.

a_ahmed
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Car: 1991 240sx fastback

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tlkq wrote:Rattlecanned my deck lid


HOW?!?! It looks too good to be true... description/steps/etc...

tlkq
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wetsand the paint starting with like either 600-800 grit and go up to 1200 grit like in steps...6-8-10-12

spray a layer of color and let it dry

wetsand

spray another layer

wetsand

spray a **** ton of clear on top and let it sit over night...THE CLOUDINESS WILL GO AWAY

wetsand

a_ahmed
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Car: 1991 240sx fastback

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Do you have more close ups of reflection/surface/different settings/etc...

tlkq
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um...maybe...my car has sat in my garage for 4 months so its really really dirty right now and needs a wax so im not taking any more but let me see what i can find

Nope I posted all of them allready.

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j u ice
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I dont buy it.Its to glossy, thats out of a pant gun.
Modified by j u ice at 5:27 PM 12/25/2007

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White Comet
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j u ice wrote:i dont buy it its to glose thats out of a pant gun.

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Stay Sidewayz
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looks great!

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S3t0_S13
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[QUOTE=Soravia]$200 hand job /QUOTE]

rgheorgfd

must...not....insert....horrible.....joke


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