Rating Suspension Mods

[StarPD]

watch those pole positions. Treadwear is horrible. I just put a set on 15k ago and they backs are BALD, fronts are worn to 30%. I was VERY dissapointed with my $1000 worth of tires. My fault for not checking treadwear.

Thanks for the tip. I'm aware that the Pole Positions only have a 140 treadwear rating, but I don't plan on putting that many miles on. I suspect that they'll last me around 2 years. By that time, I'll be able to afford PS2s.The other advantages will hopefully balance out the wear problems. Tire Rack test results place them as good as PS2s except for stability in corners, but only slightly lower, and tread wear.

I plan on providing a full report here when I have enough experience with them to form valid opinions. Tread wear feedback will have to wait for a while.

[elwesso]

Only thing they came close to was the fender. But didn't rotate the steering wheel. Stock springs.

255/40 on 8" wide may be a little too tight. I would look at 245/45-18.

The main reason im running the 255s is because I have 2 brand new pirelli's PZero Asimetrico's in my attic, they are really expensive tires! I ran 245s on my 8s and they were just fine, they fit great, just the way I want it.. The 255s should be fine wiht the extra sidewall... I like to have a little extra tire on the wheel so that the wheels dont get scraped up...

Remember that treadwear is usually inversely proportional to performance... Theres a good tradeoff zone for everyone.

[maxnix]

RE050A 255/40 ZR18 (95Y) SL 140 A A 1521 lbs. 51 psi 11/32" 28 lbs. 8.5-10" 9" 10.1" 9.1" 26.1" 798

Pilot Sport 2 255/40 ZR18 (99Y) XL 220 AA A 1709 lbs. 50 psi 10/32" 25 lbs. 8.5-10" 9" 10.2" NA 26" 799

The load rating is the crux of the advantage of the PS2 over almost all other tires in this size for the G50. Even given that, note there is 3 lbs. less unspring mass per tire. Wear at 10K is less than 50%, a real surprise.

Also note that 9" wheel width is recommended, and 8.5" is the minimum recommended wheel width. I am thinking 8" may be a little pinché.

[Rex]

I get $942 each for BBS RGR and 255/40ZR18 PS2s.That's $3768. Road hazardwarranty is $137.76. Add in shipping, mounting and balancing, and sales tax, and cost is well over $4,000, pretty much as I mentioned. Unfortunately, I would have to like the wheels, and I don't care for the RGR that much, especially not for $4,000.

I posted up the details in another thread, but I "searched" for wheels for another car ... they don't like the 18x9 +35 all aorund on the G50. I generally use a 96 300ZX, 03 G35 Coupe Base or 03 350Z base. Also, I went with Yoko ES100's. Not everyone on here likes them, but I've used them on my Q before and liek there feel. The 100 load rating adds to sidewall stiffness and more predictable feedback.

[maxnix]

... they don't like the 18x9 +35 all aorund on the G50.

Needless to say, they didn't even consider them for the FY33. Took very exacting examination of the CAD files by Blake at TR and ultra careful consideration and calculation by me, and some foolhardiness. Clearance is about 3mm to strut on the FY33. A little too close for a corporate guarantee.

[Rex]

Needless to say, they didn't even consider them for the FY33. Took very exacting examination of the CAD files by Blake at TR and ultra careful consideration and calculation by me, and some foolhardiness. Clearance is about 3mm to strut on the FY33. A little too close for a corporate guarantee.

Long term plan is to move these to my next Q (Y33) , and I figured they'ed either be "whisker close" or I'd use some 5mm spacers. I'll also go wider on tires then as well.

For a G50, I'd rather have gotten 18x8.5 +35 and 18x9.5 +42, but I couldn't pass up the RGR's.

[StarPD]

RE050A 255/40 ZR18 (95Y) SL 140 A A 1521 lbs. 51 psi 11/32" 28 lbs. 8.5-10" 9" 10.1" 9.1" 26.1" 798

Pilot Sport 2 255/40 ZR18 (99Y) XL 220 AA A 1709 lbs. 50 psi 10/32" 25 lbs. 8.5-10" 9" 10.2" NA 26" 799

The load rating is the crux of the advantage of the PS2 over almost all other tires in this size for the G50. Even given that, note there is 3 lbs. less unspring mass per tire. Wear at 10K is less than 50%, a real surprise.

Also note that 9" wheel width is recommended, and 8.5" is the minimum recommended wheel width. I am thinking 8" may be a little pinché.

All correct of course, but I'm getting 245/45ZR18 RE050A Pole Positions, which calls for ideally an 8" rim width. That's the OEM tire size on F50 with 18" wheels. Offset is 40 on the wheels I am getting. Also, the 245/45ZR18 RE050A Pole Position tires I have on order are 100 load rating.

255/40 tires on 9" rims would put a little more rubber on the ground for more traction and a wider base for more cornering stability, but all other things considered, this combination is heavier, and will be more prone to hydroplaning and tramlining. That's why I'm sticking with OEM tire size, but 1/2" wider rim width.

I don't expect good wear, but am not a high mileage driver. 140 should give me around 2 years or so. We'll see.

[maxnix]

Should work great. Be sure that the rest of the suspension is up to snuff.

Paying attention to the 0° thrust angle is paramount in the alignment procedure. Worn suspension parts allow too much scrubbing from instability.

[StarPD]

I posted up the details in another thread, but I "searched" for wheels for another car ... they don't like the 18x9 +35 all aorund on the G50. I generally use a 96 300ZX, 03 G35 Coupe Base or 03 350Z base. Also, I went with Yoko ES100's. Not everyone on here likes them, but I've used them on my Q before and liek there feel. The 100 load rating adds to sidewall stiffness and more predictable feedback.

See my response to maxnix. I referred to 255/40ZR18 only in response to comments about pricing on that size. I'm not using that size, but rather 245/45ZR18 100 load rating, on 18x8 wheels with 40 offset. After researching, at least for what I want, I think it will be the best combination for all aspects of ride and handling. Lousy wear, but as one poster so wisely stated, wear and traction are inverse ratios. One goes up, the other goes down.

[Mark86T]

1. Tokico blues & Eibachs2. 18x8 & 245/35 18x9 & 255/403. Midori fr/upper control arms & Stillen rear/upper control arms4. urethane subframe bushings5. Solid/adjustable tension rods (added the most harshness to the ride but also added a LOT of steering response)6. Front strut tower brace (didn't really feel any difference after install but it looks cool & I figured it could only help. Price was unbelievably low as well)

Well that's my order of most effective suspension mods I put on my G50.

[StarPD]

Should work great. Be sure that the rest of the suspension is up to snuff.

Paying attention to the 0° thrust angle is paramount in the alignment procedure. Worn suspension parts allow too much scrubbing from instability.

My car is a 2005 F50 with 24k miles. The current 20" wheels and 245/35ZR20 tires being run at 36psi (which are being replaced with 245/45ZR18) would reveal any worn suspension components, and all seems tight and like new, so I should be good to go. Suspension was checked out at the dealer a few days ago, and was reported as perfect. I do intend on getting a 4 wheel alignment when new wheels and tires are installed later this week.

[Q45tech]

What would an average technican or even the Master Technican at a dealership know about suspension..................looks ok in that every thing that is supposed to be there is there. Nothing broken or bent so much that it is obvious to a layman. No leaks from shocks.

Same with static misalignment it tells you little about whats happening at 60 mph on worn components.

Dealerships are not equipt nor trained to measure the performance [stiffness] of shocks, or springs, or rubber bushings.

They are trained to replace obviously worn or defect parts with new parts which are generally ASSUMMED to be correct and in specification.

A review of the ASE 30 - 4 answer multiple choice questions required to be certified on suspensions will scare those of you knowledgable in this area.http://www.themotorbookstore.com/141804 ... co...4.htm

Which of these is not part of the normal procedure for replacing a front stabilizer bar?

A. Remove from the frame mountings.

B. Remove the outer connections at the control arms.

C. Disconnect the tie-rod ends.

D. Raise the vehicle on a drive-on hoist so that the tires evenly support the weight of the vehicle

Technician A says that incorrect tire pressure can cause a vehicle to pull.

Technician B says that incorrect toe and caster alignment settings can cause the vehicle to pull.

Who is correct?

A. A onlyB. B onlyC. Both A and BD. Neither A nor B