RAS Motor fault

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
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ccampbel1
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:46 pm
Car: 2006 M45 Sport, Black on Black
Location: Ottawa, Canada

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Hi all,

Looking for some suggestions or tips here. So this is going on 6 months now, but it looks like all my fault lights etc go back to my RAS Motor.

paid several hundred bucks to have a 2 hour full diagnostic performed, They made it to the RAS motor, which was reading + 5000 Ohms when it is suppose to read 67 or something like that. I ordered a used one for 500 bucks (best price I could find) a new unit is 6700 dollar Canadian as I'm told you can only get it if you purchase the entire rear sub frame, which seems kinda sketchy to me...

So used motor was installed, car went back to normal, everything working like a charm. Now it's two weeks later and fault lights and all... 2 hours later and a couple hundred bucks less in my pocket, the used motor is reading 1000 ohms... The dealer says the used motor looks like it's been sitting for a long time and has a really bad dead spot... I called the used parts dealer, they told me to piss off. (Not happy with them to say the least)

Couple of questions:

a) Can you get just the motor new? Maybe it's sold as a part in The USA standalone?
b) Can you disable the RAS? Just so I get Cruse and Stability control back. Do I need to worry about rear alignment?
c) Any thoughts on if something else could be blowing motors? This seems unlikely to me, but want to people's thought before I may shell out more cash.
d) are RAS motor failures common? I don't get any hits in the forms when I search.
e) Anyone know if a motor from a G35/37 couple with RAS etc would fit? Might increase my used parts search options.
f) Can you get an RAS motor rewound like an alternator? If it's just to much resistance, it might be in the windings, no?


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SteveTheTech
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Now that is an interesting problem.

Well first off I find it a little weird that after 2hrs of paid diag time all you get is a condemned motor.

Let's start from the beginning. I need to know why the light is on. You will need to perform the self diagnosis function.

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I do not really think that the motor would the same from the G. Although it might be they appear to have different numbers.

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ccampbel1
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Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:46 pm
Car: 2006 M45 Sport, Black on Black
Location: Ottawa, Canada

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Steve,

I have a full service report, they go through all the trouble shooting. The orginal motor measured a resistance as 5000 + ohms. The used motor is reading 1000 Ohms vs 67 factory spec. Unfortuntly I'm on a business trip till Friday, I will try this test you listed below once I'm back home. But I'm pretty sure it will match what the dealer is telling me. They went through the trouble shooting sheets from the book. Showed the error code for the motor, then showed the trouble shooting for the motor it's self. They even had the resistance measurments on the motor load side. I'm fairly sure the dealer is in the good here.

The first dealer I went to claimed it was the ABS unit, but that was after 15 minutes of trouble shooting, I decided to get a second check before I dropped 2700 bucks on that. The second dealer came up with the motor, which fixed the issue for two weeks, That and they have trouble shooting notes and sheet that they showed me of what they did, so I'm inclind to belive them. They recommed finding a used part, so they are not making any moneny on this other than labour.

Anyways, I'll do the test on friday and see what I get. Thanks for the help so far! I'll get back to you with the results.

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ccampbel1
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SteveTheTech

I did the test. I get error codes: 13 (Motor output) and Error 26 VDC.

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SteveTheTech
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Man that kind of sucks. Sounds like a freak instance but if the connector at the control unit and the motor are intact that...according to the book it looks pretty cut and dry.

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ccampbel1
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Car: 2006 M45 Sport, Black on Black
Location: Ottawa, Canada

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Hey Steve,

Ok, well thanks for the support. I figured i was SOL, but thought I'd ask encase someone else has dealt with this. My normal dealer is pretty good, but they hadn't dealt with this fault before. They showed me the diagnostics reports and everything, so I was pretty sure, but I thought I better check the forms.

I don't suppose you know a way to just disable the system, so I get Cruse, TC & Stability control back? I don't really care about the Rear steering, I notice a difference with it working when changing lanes etc at speed. But it's not much, and I mostly drive in town. I drive the wife's 4 banger long distances...

Is it just software that make the car think it's a sport vs a non-sport. Can I trick it into thinking it's a non-sport and disable the Rear unit? Or is a different control unit or something?

Also as a side note, Any change something else is broken, which is causing the motors to go? I see in the tech manual, it talks about 6 volts to the motor. Where is that supplied from, could a resistor or something be toast, and the motor is being supplied with 12volts causing the failure. I don't want to put a 3rd motor in to find out some 5 cent part blew it also...

Colin.

ins.guy
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Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:05 am
Car: 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport

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My 2006 M45 sport was just diagnosed with same problem. They told me new motor $2700 us. Also told no way to bypass the ras as I too would be fine without it. Did you ever figure out your problem?

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ccampbel1
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nope. To cheap to fix it right now. Just bought a big a** house... Running with no Cruse, Stablility or TC. Kinda fun now that it's not snowy... I'm going to get another used one in June and try it again. I think I just had dumb bad luck with the first used motor.

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Royal1262
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Car: 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport S

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ccampbel1 wrote:nope. To cheap to fix it right now. Just bought a big a** house... Running with no Cruse, Stablility or TC. Kinda fun now that it's not snowy... I'm going to get another used one in June and try it again. I think I just had dumb bad luck with the first used motor.
I have the same problem with my 06 M45. may I ask where did you get the used one from? and is it hard to replace yourself?

Ive had so many problems with this car it ridiculous. Oil pan crack $800, Both catalysis converters $6,000, RAS motor fail, now i hear a funny noise coming from the rear when i put the car into gear or if i take off. I'm sick of the quality issues with this car. A $45,000 car should not have all these issues we are having with these cars.

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ccampbel1
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I bought mine from a US used car parts website. I don't have the paperwork anymore... But if you search the part number in Google, you get hits in eBay etc. should be about 500 bones. Makes sure they have a good warranty, and will not F you over like the place did to me.

mixeaodjservice
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Royal1262

Sorry about your problems with the M45. As far as the rear noise when you change in gear, the rear axle needs regreasing (if on drivers rear). I had this problem, and this fixed it. It is a known problem. One of these lube places can do it for you for under 50 bucks.

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Royal1262
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mixeaodjservice wrote:Royal1262

Sorry about your problems with the M45. As far as the rear noise when you change in gear, the rear axle needs regreasing (if on drivers rear). I had this problem, and this fixed it. It is a known problem. One of these lube places can do it for you for under 50 bucks.

Thanks allot for the help, i love my car minus all of the quality issues.

ins.guy
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Mine was repaired in shop with new motor for around $3000 which included parts (infiniti gave $500 off retail), labor and alignement. I now see a motor on ebay for $400 wish I had searched part number sooner. 55705-aq500 per my invoice. Says it is from an M35 touring but part number matches. Would hav taken a shot with that type of savings. All appears to be working well now that motor replaced and all my codes cleared. Only thing I have had to do to car other than brakes and tires. Did just go to rotate to summer tires and two rims were dented so sent them off to pro-wheels to be repaired. Looking forward to putting on the hankook v12s I just purchased.

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Royal1262
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ins.guy wrote:Mine was repaired in shop with new motor for around $3000 which included parts (infiniti gave $500 off retail), labor and alignement. I now see a motor on ebay for $400 wish I had searched part number sooner. 55705-aq500 per my invoice. Says it is from an M35 touring but part number matches. Would hav taken a shot with that type of savings. All appears to be working well now that motor replaced and all my codes cleared. Only thing I have had to do to car other than brakes and tires. Did just go to rotate to summer tires and two rims were dented so sent them off to pro-wheels to be repaired. Looking forward to putting on the hankook v12s I just purchased.


Thanks for the tip ins.guy, just purchased one on Ebay for $329.99+ $25 shipping. Hope it works!!

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ccampbel1
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Royal, Let us know how it goes. I'm 0 for 1 with a used motor. If you're works out, I'll give another used one a shot.

ins.guy
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Thanks for the tip ins.guy, just purchased one on Ebay for $329.99+ $25 shipping. Hope it works!!

You are welcome. Let me know if it works so I know how hard to kick myself for not having done that myself.

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Royal1262
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ins.guy wrote:
Thanks for the tip ins.guy, just purchased one on Ebay for $329.99+ $25 shipping. Hope it works!!

You are welcome. Let me know if it works so I know how hard to kick myself for not having done that myself.
lol.... Ok I will. Thanks again!

ins.guy
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So did it work??

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SteveTheTech
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I always hate the lack of closure we get......

I bet we'd a known if it didn't.....

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Royal1262
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ins.guy wrote:So did it work??
not sure I hadn't installed it, because after I changed my brakes all the lights went off and never came back on, also now I can use my cruise control. So I chose not to bother it. I think I'm going to sell it for $300 + shipping if anyone wants it.

ins.guy
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I had that happen 8 months ago where it was just replacing the brakes but this time it was actually the motor glad it was just brakes for you

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ccampbel1
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Second new motor is a winner! Car works great!

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ccampbel1
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The first motor from General Auto (www.genauto.net) was garbage. If I could post a picture I would ( I took a couple) The motor is completely rusted and in really bad shape. I can't believe these guys would sell the part in the condition it was in. I would suggest staying away from them.

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SteveTheTech
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Glad to hear everything back together and working properly. :1

One of the downsides of using use parts.

ins.guy
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ccampbel1 wrote:The first motor from General Auto (http://www.genauto.net) was garbage. If I could post a picture I would ( I took a couple) The motor is completely rusted and in really bad shape. I can't believe these guys would sell the part in the condition it was in. I would suggest staying away from them.
Glad to hear all worked out for you. Still kicking myself for putting in brand new part but on upside I have had no problems with car since. Truly is a fun car.

willay
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ccampbel1 - Did you install the new motor yourself or have the dealership put it in. Looks like I need a new RAS for my g35 but the dealership said the same thing to me that I have to buy the whole unit for 7k not including labor. I'm going to start looking for a used one online but i have to figure out the part number.

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ccampbel1
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willay.

Part number for the M45 is 55705 AQ500, I would assume it's the same for the G35. If you sweet talk your rep at the dealer, they should confirm.

I found them for between 300-500 bucks, Ebay was the best option for me in the end the one I got from the junk yard was that junk. Just try and make sure it's in decent shape before they ship it up. I had the dealer install it, they claimed they need to calibrate / align the car afterwards. Even though they only changed the motor, left the gear case installed. I have a complete extra gear case in my garage if anyone wants it for free.. And a s*** old motor, I doubt it can be rebuilt.

The M is gone. Marrage etc has kicked in and I now have a 2013 ford explorer limited, I hope less prone to breaking... But I'm pretty sure 7K parts are limited on the ford...

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wingFeather
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What happens when this motor fails? Is the car not able to be driven, or just certain features disable themselves? Sounds like the cruise control won't engage?

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ccampbel1
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Cruise, Traction control, stability control, are all disabled.

The car still works, my was broken for a couple months. Summer was fine, but the M45 sucked in the winter with out traction control, even with snow tires. And highway trips suck with out cruse control. Once the new part was installed all was good again.

EniGmA1987
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ccampbel1 wrote:Cruise, Traction control, stability control, are all disabled.
Sounds like a perfect fix for these cars in southern California.


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