Radiator Suggestion Wanted

[OwnerCS]

Well my coolant pressure test didn't go as well as the fuel system. To my chagrin, I found the radiator has a hole. I think it picked up a ding in the workshop. I suspect it met the pressure washer nozzle end, as it was stored near it...

Oh well I might as well get a new one since about everything else associated with the cooling system is new..

The previous owner had the radiator replaced about 18 months ago.. It looked like new to me.

Do radiator shops still fix radiators these days or is that a lost cause and I need to just order a new one?

Any suggestions?

[qship96]

I installed a CSF aluminum/plastic end tank model almost 4 years ago- fit and function is great, price even better $150-200 if you shop around online

[OwnerCS]

Thanks Qship!

[kdkrone]

qship,

How did you decide between the all-metal and the plastic-metal models? Also, I re-routed the transmission cooler to a separate cooler years ago. Any problem with the install of the new tank?

Thanks
Ken K

[elwesso]

I have a thread from over the summer about my radiator shenanigans. I ended up with a CSF all metal piece, great quality and really the price wasnt that much more than the metal/plastic one.. With proper cooling system maintenance and barring any physical damage, this radiator should easily outlast the car.

[qship96]

qship,

How did you decide between the all-metal and the plastic-metal models? Also, I re-routed the transmission cooler to a separate cooler years ago. Any problem with the install of the new tank?

Thanks
Ken K

Install went smoothly- I chose the plastic/aluminium model because if I recall the all metal model was not aluminum based, and I wanted to use an aluminum based model like the factory installed one to prevent any possible corrosion issues down the line from using a dissimilar metal than the engine.

[kdkrone]

Wes,

The internet prices I found are $488 for the metal model (model 2652) versus $122-157 for the plastic/metal (model 2803). Not sure I couldn't find somewhere else to put the $300 unless it is likely that the heat would ultimately cause the plastic to crack... Where did you find prices for the two models that were similar to each other, i.e., a better price on the all-metal unit?

Ken K


MAKE = INFINITI; MODEL = Q 45; YEAR = 1992
Order By Make Asc, Model Asc, Year Desc, Engine Asc
# Make Model Model Year Description Engine Tank Type CSF No Status Remark
1 INFINITI Q 45 1992 - 4.5 L Metal 2652 For radiator model with Plastic Tanks refer Plastic Tank Cross Reference.
2 INFINITI Q 45 1992 - 4.5 L Plastic 2803 For rugged ALL METAL radiator model refer Plastic Tank Cross Reference

[elwesso]

Wes,

The internet prices I found are $488 for the metal model (model 2652) versus $122-157 for the plastic/metal (model 2803). Not sure I couldn't find somewhere else to put the $300 unless it is likely that the heat would ultimately cause the plastic to crack... Where did you find prices for the two models that were similar to each other, i.e., a better price on the all-metal unit?

Ken K


MAKE = INFINITI; MODEL = Q 45; YEAR = 1992
Order By Make Asc, Model Asc, Year Desc, Engine Asc
# Make Model Model Year Description Engine Tank Type CSF No Status Remark
1 INFINITI Q 45 1992 - 4.5 L Metal 2652 For radiator model with Plastic Tanks refer Plastic Tank Cross Reference.
2 INFINITI Q 45 1992 - 4.5 L Plastic 2803 For rugged ALL METAL radiator model refer Plastic Tank Cross Reference

check out this thread, this has all the necessary info you need.

[qship96]

The factory installed radiator was a aluminum and plastic tank model and most lasted over 10 years, not sure why you think they cant handle heat without cracking????

[elwesso]

The factory installed radiator was a aluminum and plastic tank model and most lasted over 10 years, not sure why you think they cant handle heat without cracking????

BTW I forgot to reply to the last post.... new-radiator-for-the-q-great-product-t498703.html

I am not doubting that the plastic/aluminum combo was obviously adequate with an OEM radiator, however you would have a hard time convincing me that an all metal (copper/brass) radiator is superior to an aluminum radiator with crimped on plastic end tanks.

according to radiatorworld.com, the plastic one is $163, the metal one is $169.. Thats a no brainer.. However radiator barn has the plastic one for $30 cheaper (about 130), and the metal one $30 more expensive (about $190).. Besides, a copper/brass radiator should have better heat transfer properties than an all aluminum one..

My point is on my radiator, the plastic end tank was the thing that failed, so for not much more money I got an all metal one..

[OwnerCS]

Thank you guys for the help.

Here's one that looks correct for a 91..



This morning I called my neighborhood NAPA store. The manager recognized me after I asked him to check the availability on a Q45 radiator and greeted me with yes sir Mr. S. It will be here from Dallas Tuesday night for you to check out Wednesday morning. You don't need to pay for anything unless you decide you want to take it home..

Ok go ahead and get one.. I thought well it does have a lifetime warranty and if it ever develops a leak in some little town between here and California, Houston TX, Rochester NY, or somewhere on the east coast, I should be able to easily find a store to replace it..

I know NAPA is expensive stuff at $186.99. The picture looks correct and delivery speed pushed the right button..

[kdkrone]

I am not doubting that the plastic/aluminum combo was obviously adequate with an OEM radiator, however you would have a hard time convincing me that an all metal (copper/brass) radiator is superior to an aluminum radiator with crimped on plastic end tanks.

Wes, I assume you meant to write "... however you would have a hard time convincing me that an all metal (copper/brass) radiator is NOT superior to an aluminum radiator with crimped on plastic end tanks......", yes?

[Lokim]

You guys are gonna crucify me (Wes), but I have "fixed" more than one radiator with a carefully applied and well-cured JB Weld "patch!" If the tank and tank seams are OK, and it is leaking from one of the aluminum tubes I would just spend an hour draining the radiator and cleaning the offending area, then applying a bit of well-mixed JB Weld and allow it to cure for a day or two. Fill and burp cooling system, and you've got a working radiator! I've got a van with 3 "patches" on the core, and they have been there for over 2 years with no leaks...

[OwnerCS]

New plan today..

I found the old radiator was purchased last October -- so it is a year and a month old now.. Cooling system was flushed at that time -- I thought it looked good when I drained it..

This morning I'm going to take the old one to the Radiator Doctor and get it fixed. As soon as it is cured, use it for the pressure test and then for some short haul driving while I do some other enhancements to prepare the car for long road trips. This will buy me some time to study alternatives while I look for some super xtreme product that will last until the next ice age.. LOL

A while back, Qship proposed an alternative to the 96 tran fluid filter's dual output problem I have by upgrading the radiator to a dual tran fluid cooler as well. I have a Hayden 243012 tran cooler already purchased that I want to use before the weather warms up. However, I need to make the aux cooler so that it cannot be seen from under the hood or be easily detectable by some future car show judge.. Winter is here and I don't think I will need a trans cooler until warmer weather I think. I want to study the whole trans fluid line situation and hopefully develop a more steamlined solution than the bundle of hoses that it is today that also looks like it came from the factory..

I want to get Q running this weekend as I need some foot surgery fast to stop the pain.. On Monday of next week, I see the surgeon and I figure that I'll be hitting the hospital sooner than later. So I want to get my Q baby out of my home based hospital here before I go under the real knife. LOL..

Make sense?

[elwesso]

You guys are gonna crucify me (Wes), but I have "fixed" more than one radiator with a carefully applied and well-cured JB Weld "patch!" If the tank and tank seams are OK, and it is leaking from one of the aluminum tubes I would just spend an hour draining the radiator and cleaning the offending area, then applying a bit of well-mixed JB Weld and allow it to cure for a day or two. Fill and burp cooling system, and you've got a working radiator! I've got a van with 3 "patches" on the core, and they have been there for over 2 years with no leaks...

Actually I dig that a lot. Obviously the ideal case is replacement however you can make reliable patch jobs.

When I was in Omaha for the last NICO event I blew my radiator on the track. Thinking I'm screwed I pulled the radiator to find a crack in the tank, pretty much the seam where the tank meets the core. I then cleaned it real good, got some 2 part epoxy from autozone and i was back on the road for $5. It made it home (about 500 miles) just fine and was good when I took it out. I only replaced it because the Q is my only car and with driving an hour one way to work it's not worth chancing in my case.

[ShortSeason]

Has any one tried this Griffin all Al one? Suggested in another Radiator thread from this summer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-26242-XS/

[qship96]

Has any one tried this Griffin all Al one? Suggested in another Radiator thread from this summer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-26242-XS/

That is a universal fit radiator, would probably require you to custom fabricate mounting hardware as opposed to a radiator specifically designed for the q45 which exactly matches mounting points and dimensions

[elwesso]

Has any one tried this Griffin all Al one? Suggested in another Radiator thread from this summer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-26242-XS/

That is a universal fit radiator, would probably require you to custom fabricate mounting hardware as opposed to a radiator specifically designed for the q45 which exactly matches mounting points and dimensions

I looked into this too and I decided that I did not want to hassle with fabricating a radiator and making it fit..

The stock design radiator seems to be perfectly adequate for the Q, even under severe conditions.. I have had my Q on auto-X and road courses and I have never had any overheating issues, other then when my radiator actually gave way, but it was most likely the OEM one...

[Q451990]

I have a Hayden 243012 tran cooler already purchased that I want to use before the weather warms up. However, I need to make the aux cooler so that it cannot be seen from under the hood or be easily detectable by some future car show judge...

Here's how I installed my B&M. I even used to black rubber RTV around the hoses where they go through the flap on the bottom. This view is of the front of the radiator, so the cooler is sandwiched between the cooler and a/c condenser. It's totally invisible with all of the trim in place. I don't have any pics. of how it's tied together under the car, but I was able to use barbed brass couplings and tie into the factory hoses at some point where they were joined, and cable tied them on to one of those diagonal cross members that holds the tension rods...



The B&M uses some sort of "stacked plate" design that is supposed to redirect cold fluid back to the transmission without feeding it through the fins, and in our ambient temperatures I figured that was OK. In colder climates, I always envisioned some sort of bypass system that would send the ATF back to the factory "heater" using a series of ball valves.

Heath

[OwnerCS]

This is exactly what I had in mind..

It looks like the neighborhood parts stores are getting a premium price for it without any installation kit compared to B&M that has most of what you need..

I guess they figure you should pay extra for the kit because cool is spelled "kool" [sic]and the product is named "Imperial" to project an image of entitlement. LOL

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 77103922-2