Quick Question
Quick Question
Im sure this question has already been asked. Well the story is that I just bought a Nissan 240 sr20 stock swap.. 30,000miles and such good motor. Everything is stock down to the intercooler. Well I plan on getting the works except the internals done like mabe a t28, injectors, afc, boost controller. Front mount, full exhaust from the turbo and a little bit more. What is the most I can run the car at boost wise without still blowing the thing to pieces? Like one bar or so or idk you guys tell me..
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IanS
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Re: Quick Question (spazzz#15)
We have covered this topic many times.
It really depends on your setup.
Stock IC is good to around 10 psi, then you risk heat soak.
Stock MAFS, and injectors are good to around 14psi, then you will risk fuel cut
T25 is efficient till around 13 or 14 psi, anything above that, and you are just making noise, and risking grenading the turbines.
I would suggest searching a little. Many people have their setups posted, reading what they have done should give you some insight.
It really depends on your setup.
Stock IC is good to around 10 psi, then you risk heat soak.
Stock MAFS, and injectors are good to around 14psi, then you will risk fuel cut
T25 is efficient till around 13 or 14 psi, anything above that, and you are just making noise, and risking grenading the turbines.
I would suggest searching a little. Many people have their setups posted, reading what they have done should give you some insight.
Re: Quick Question (FlatBlackIan)
If I do change the MAF to something else what would you recomend and if i did what would i need to do to the computer or would it be ok? I will go for a T28 proly like the s15turbo with a front mount full down piped exhaust new injectors proly like 550s intake manifold cheap.. but yet i can run 14 15 pounds on stock internals? this is with a fuel controller,
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IanS
- Posts: 9758
- Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
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Re: Quick Question (spazzz#15)
You can run a lot more than 15 psi on stock internals as long as you get a decent head gasket. I dont remember what the safe max boost is on stock rods and pistons.
For MAFS, I would suggest the Z32, it is 3 inch, and will support IIRC about 500 whp. You will need to modify the signal in some way, either with an FIC, or S-AFC. I personally would just get your ECU retuned by Enthalpy or JWT once you have the injectors and MAFS.
You mentioned an aftermarket manifold in there. What do you plan to do with the car? All the aftermarket manis use extremely short runners, this does increase peak power, but it shifts your power band significantly higher, while also lowering torque.
For MAFS, I would suggest the Z32, it is 3 inch, and will support IIRC about 500 whp. You will need to modify the signal in some way, either with an FIC, or S-AFC. I personally would just get your ECU retuned by Enthalpy or JWT once you have the injectors and MAFS.
You mentioned an aftermarket manifold in there. What do you plan to do with the car? All the aftermarket manis use extremely short runners, this does increase peak power, but it shifts your power band significantly higher, while also lowering torque.
Re: Quick Question (FlatBlackIan)
The swap is done really clean and it has nothing done to it yet so i plan on making it handle some kind of boost but not enough to make it a full out racer but yet a car that i can make stock boost then turn up with a boost controller. proly like an apexi for some fun. so just as a list of stuff i would do it would be a Cheap front mount with pipes. a cheap header that would fit a t28 bigger injectors while it already has a 255 for fuel. and a boost controller to boost it up a bit and full exhaust including a down pipe. Also a fuel computer. as far as what i would need to do to have that capability with the MaF or what every Im not sure I am new to these cars but want to make it so i can turn up the boost to about 15 16 mabe then turn it back down from in the car so i can drive it normal then turn it up when i want and have the moter still run fine. that is the main goal.
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IanS
- Posts: 9758
- Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
- Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
- Location: Esko, MN
- Contact:
Re: Quick Question (spazzz#15)
An FIC, or S-AFC will be able to adjust for the different MAFS while adjusting fuel control at the same time.
Sound like you are looking to build the car to be fun, kind of sounds like mine.
I would start by getting the exhaust and intercooler, they will make a huge difference, even on stock boost. Then I would get the boost controller of your choice. Crank the boost to 12 psi, and go have some fun.
I would suggest looking into an oil cooler also, the SR20s like to cook their oil, and a cooler is cheap insurance.
For what you plan to do, I think a ROM tune is definitely the way to go, it will afford you much better driveability day to day, and it will allow you to retain ECU learning capabilities. Once you have gotten your turbo installed, order the MAFS and injectors, and send out the ECU. Install all three at once, and have a blast.
As for turbo manifolds, they really aren't necessary. they crack, and tend to increase under hood temps. I would look into having the stock manifold extrude honed, it will be cheaper, and more reliable in the end.
Sound like you are looking to build the car to be fun, kind of sounds like mine.
I would start by getting the exhaust and intercooler, they will make a huge difference, even on stock boost. Then I would get the boost controller of your choice. Crank the boost to 12 psi, and go have some fun.
I would suggest looking into an oil cooler also, the SR20s like to cook their oil, and a cooler is cheap insurance.
For what you plan to do, I think a ROM tune is definitely the way to go, it will afford you much better driveability day to day, and it will allow you to retain ECU learning capabilities. Once you have gotten your turbo installed, order the MAFS and injectors, and send out the ECU. Install all three at once, and have a blast.
As for turbo manifolds, they really aren't necessary. they crack, and tend to increase under hood temps. I would look into having the stock manifold extrude honed, it will be cheaper, and more reliable in the end.