Quick question about installing Stainless Steel Turbo Lines 2.0

[soka]

My last post got corrupted with a giant pick of darth vader so im gunna restart this post again so i can hopefully get a clear answer with out a giant pic of darth vader in the way. zerothread/296785

I was told that when installing the ss turbo lines all the 90 degree bends go on the turbo and the straight ends go on the motor. Only thing is im running into a problem with one of the 90 degree bends on the turbo as its not fitting correctly. which can be seen here..







as you can see in these pics theres no way for the 90 degree bend to fit because its hitting something no matter how i rotate it..

SO im wondering can you put the straight end in this location??

the lines are http://www.frsport.com/Circuit....htmlfor the s14 motor with the t28 turbo.

Thanks for the help!!

Stephen

[srdub-t]

its hitting the bend you say?

[soka]

Yes then end of the ss line with the 90 degree bend in it hits the cross arm thing when i rotate it down as seen in pics 2 and 3.

Can i put the straight end of the ss line in that location instead of the end with the 90 degree bend?

[soka]

okay.. i just tried to twist the cross arm thing so it cleared the bend and... it works.. please some one tell me this is okay and i didnt screw up what ever the cross arm thing is attached to..

heres the results..





also one other thing.. for the oil line this is as far as i could screw it in...



The hole for the oil line on the turbo has something in it that prevents this from being screwed in further.. can someone confirm that this is correct??

thanks alot!!!

Stephen

[srdub-t]

are you talking bout the restrictor? that should screw into the oil line on the turbo side

[soka]

Im sorry but i really dont know much about a restrictor. Inside the hole for the oil line on the turbo it looked like there was a small nozzle??( jeez i cant even describe it) that i think the stock I bolt went over..

The hole on the tip of the ss line is about half the size of the hole on the original oil line bolt so it cant go over the thing that is inside the oil line hole.



is that okay???

jeez sorry for my retarded descriptions of all this.. i dont know jack about this stuff.. >_<

the whole reason im doing this is to fix a coolent leak that i caused when i replaced my exhaust manifold..

[soka]

FOr anY ONe lookIng aT this POst for ReferEnce.. HerE is my FInal SS LiNe seT uP. NoTE i UnDId my chanGEs to the CrosS arM thinG anD JUst Put THe STraIGT eNd inTO the TURbo bEcauSE the STRAIGHT END DIDNT FIT IN THE MOTORR!!!!!!!! >_<



PerhAPS peOPle that toLD me aLl 90 degREE BENds gO in thE TURBO NEveR pUt LinES On aN s14 mOTOr..

Also note the orientation of my lines because if you put the turbo and manifold back on the motor with the lines oriented differently they wont connect to the motor and then youll have to pull the manifold and tubro off again for the millionth time to re orient them....





I didnt have time to start up my car cause the dang sun goes down so fast so hopefully this will work.. but this is all on the car fiting just fine..

StEphEN

[hpballer76]

alright i know that this i an old thread but instead of making a new one i am bringing it back up because i am having the same problem and the question never really got answered.

solution a. turn over the wastegate actuator arm to allow room for the 90* fitting to fit on the turbo. does this mess up anything in the wastgate actuator?

or

solution b. put the straight end into the turbo and the 90* fitting into the block.

what should i do?
Modified by hpballer76 at 11:22 PM 12/10/2008

[Justin35ll]

It doesn't really matter man it's just a fitting the coolant should flow through it either way.

Which ever way works out best I'de say. Didn't you already say the straight end didn't fit in the block? And you already had it hooked up to the turbo/car with the straight end in the turbo? Did it work?

edit- oh, I thought you were the op nvm

[johnnyballs180]

this is an s14 t28 we're talking about, right?

solution a. turn over the wastegate actuator arm to allow room for the 90* fitting to fit on the turbo. does this mess up anything in the wastgate actuator?

for the past two hours, i've been trying to find a nice cutout of a similar w/g to see exactly what the actuator rod resides on.. and DAMN there's a lot of stuff for sale on the internet!

anyway, until you find out for sure, i would not recommend rotating the actuator rod. maybe i'm full of ****, but i think the actuator rod is attached to a piston or plate which is part of the w/g diaphragm. i think the rod is threaded and that piston/plate is sandwhiched between the rod and a nut and washer.

IF that's true (and i'm not saying i'm right), and you rotate the actuator rod, you may rotate the piston/plate, and you could rip the diaphragm.

i strongly recommend posting in the technical forum, asking if it IS in fact safe to rotate it, just to be sure.

**SMART PEOPLE, THIS IS A GREAT TIME TO CHIME IN!

anyway, is that rod your only problem? my stainless lines were pretty straight-foward. i had to route a coolant line a couple different ways before i was happy; they were resting against the turbo, and i did not like that one bit. took some "finangling" but it's happy now.

it's happy so i'm happy. and when i'm happy, something is bound to break which makes me unhappy.

good luck! and i hope i'm wrong about the diaphragm thing :P

*EDITi think this picture is applicable..?

[Morph]

I found the same issue when using ss lines. I just put the straight end in the turbo and the bend to the block. I think that i had to change the end connectors but im not sure. I've been using this setup for a few years and no leaks no issues nothing, just works.

[johnnyballs180]

when i did my turbo swap, i had ZERO coolant/oil s.s. line issues; i was amazed how simple it was. the actuator rod made it a little tough to get a wrench in there to tighten the aluminum fitting, but it was just a matter of slow turns, rotate, another slow turn, damnit my wrench is stuck, turn backwards a little, flip the wrench around, and so on. my only problem during the swap was the turbo elbow; t28 turbo with s13 elbow, the studs/bolts didn't marry-up perfectly. it was my first project of the sort, and at around hour 40 or so of non-stop work, i fell asleep under my car. hahahahai was trying to be real patient and do it right, labeling everything and taking pics. it paid off later.

my patience ran out around hour 30. at that point, i grabbed my t25 and decided to have a little fun. so, JUST for fun, i decided to use it to test gravity. and by "just for fun," i mean, i was getting really pissed off, and by testing gravity, i mean, i threw it about ten feet.



hpballer76, have you decided what you're gonna do? i guess if you do it like Morph said, that'd probably be the safest. the fittings are real easy to swap, you just gotta keep the tape around the braided stainless wires tight.keep us posted! i think this is real interesting.

[hpballer76]

yep i will probably just put the straight end on but i talked to a few other people and they said they didnt think turning the wastegate actuator arm would mess anything up. so i may try that and let everyone know for future installs and if i does mess it up ill just put on a hks wastgate actuator.. but it will be a little bit before i try to start my motor as its not in the car yet.. and mine is a s14 sr20

[johnnyballs180]

cool beans. the emoticon doesn't mean anything.. i just always wanted to use it.

well, i wish you the best of luck, and i hope this works out for the best. and if it doesn't, rip that damn wastegate apart!! take a bunch of pics so i can see what the inside looks like. hahahaactually, i just gave my old t25 away this morning. i completely forgot i even had it until my friend reminded me i said i'd give it to him (i..don't know why he wants it. maybe he lost his door-stop or something). otherwise, i would have just cut it apart myself.my bad. that makes me a sad panda.

good luck!

[Blown240sx]

Coolant lines can be straight fittings anywhere you want or 90 anywhere you want.

Oil you can have a straight on the top line on both sides if you want but the bottom keep it as straight as you can but bends shouldnt hurt it too much.

Reason being the coolant lines are pressurized and they will force fluid through. As is the Oil feed but the return out the bottom has no pressure and is gravity forced. So less bend the better oil will flow away.

Turning the actuator arm will not effect anything.

Lastly you shouldn't use Teflon tape on the turbo. Your fittings should bottoms out on the coolant side and return oil side. Use crush washers here. The feed side should have an inverted flare style bottom which will seat in the feed side and it will not leak.

[johnnyballs180]

good info. thanks!

[CMG]

The oil feed AN fitting on the CS lines doesn't go in all the way, so I just used an exhaust manifold spacer to give it some tension when I tightened it.

[CMG]

BTW the stock S13 banjo bolt that you bolt into the block on the oil line is the restrictor. You might have to only use a crush washer on the inside to make the hole in the banjo line up inside the fitting right.

[Blown240sx]

The oil feed AN fitting on the CS lines doesn't go in all the way, so I just used an exhaust manifold spacer to give it some tension when I tightened it.

Ifthe fitting that goes intot he turbo is an inverted flare to AN it shouldnt need any spacer. Just tighten it down tight to where it bottoms out. The inverted flare makes a tight seal that wont leak.

[SeanC]

so whats the big problem with the factory lines? i have been running them for a long time with no issues, easy to unbolt and put on as well...

[CMG]

If you had stainless lines you would know the difference. SS are the way to go if you upgrade or mess with your turbo and manifold alot.

[johnnyballs180]

i'm pretty much with CMG on this one. i've had to remove the same turbo out of my car four times so far.. and DAMNIT do those s.s. lines help! for me, it's just one more thing that makes a PITA a bit easier.. no real worries about kinking or twisting the wrong way during removal/install. if you don't ever mess with the turbo or manifold or elbow or.. anything down there, then the hard lines are probably fine.

[CMG]

Trying to put everything together today and running into the same prob as the op with the wg arm getting in the way. The longer line should be used on the farther side I would think.

[johnnyballs180]

The longer line should be used on the farther side I would think.

what do you mean "longer line"? you mean the part of the w/g rod that kind of comes out?

[hpballer76]

i think the "longer line" he is talking about is the longer ss line

[johnnyballs180]

oh oh oh, no duh, huh? lol that definitely makes more sense. i'm on a government computer and pictures don't display, so i don't remember which line went where. i'll see what mine are doing when i leave work.

[CMG]

I posted up some pics of the set up in my other thread about the T28 upgrade.