Question for those who do their own oil change

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exvin
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Whats up all.

My parking lot just got better lighting and more space and now I am thinking of doing my own oil changes on the pathy.

My question is, do any of you who do your own oil change use a engine flush first before doing your oil change or do you change the oil straight (without flush)?

Thanks


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Densetsu
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I just drain and refill my oil and put a new filter on, no flush. I'm not even sure what kind of flush a DIY mechanic could do -- drain, refill with 0W40, idle engine for a half hour, drain, and refill with 5W30?

If you've been doing oil changes on the proper intervals, then you shouldn't need one. Certainly not every oil change. On an older engine, it can actually loosen up stuff that shouldn't be loosened up, causing problems.

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KyooX4
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I just drain the old oil, pour the new in, and change the oil filter.

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NutsPathfinder
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KyooX4 wrote:I just drain the old oil, pour the new in, and change the oil filter.

X2

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GRNMACHINE
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x3.

Although when Nissan offers an $18 oil change I let them do it and bring a jug of synthetic.

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Pwnin O'Brien
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KyooX4 wrote:I just drain the old oil, pour the new in, and change the oil filter.
+1, a flushing oil isn't necessary if you've been using a quality oil. If you're really concerned then you can try some Seafoam in the engine to clean it out.

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speedeast
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Oil out, oil in. No flush! If your oil is changed on a regular, recommended basis, a flush will NEVER be necessary.

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exvin
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Great, thanks guys

I am using mobil 1 on regular intervals and it the pathy doesnt burn alot of oil, at least from what I am noticing

Now my next concern is should I buy 4 individual quarts or a large container of oil :)

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speedeast
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The larger container might save you some money. It should have a capacity window on the side so you don't overfill.
Just remember that the 3.3L oil capacity is 3.875 (3 7/8) US qt 5w-30.

Mobil 1 is good stuff, only oil I use anymore.

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Chuck Tribolet
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No flush.

Drain oil, replace drain plug, remove old filter, install new filter, fill.

Be sure to oil the gasket on the new filter so that it spins down without deforming the gasket. Easiest way is to just touch it to the gasket on the old filter.
Hand tighten the new filter (no wrench) about 2/3 to 3/4 turn past initial contact at the gasket.
Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter. Every once on a while the gasket will stay behind.
Do some homework on the web about filter brands. There are some comparison sites. Wix does well, but can be hard to find.

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speedeast
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Dude, all you have to do is dip your finger in the new oil and run it around the seal on the new filter. Bada bing, bada boom! Tighten the filter until there is no wobble in it anymore, then 1/4 turn. THAT IS ALL!

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CanuckQx4
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What Id love to know is how to stop all the oil overflow when removing the old oil filter from flowing everywhere. It sucks,
Whats a quickl a dirty way around it other than 15 shop rags and quick hands lol

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amaff
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CanuckQx4 wrote:What Id love to know is how to stop all the oil overflow when removing the old oil filter from flowing everywhere. It sucks,
Whats a quickl a dirty way around it other than 15 shop rags and quick hands lol
Um... put the drain pan under the oil filter??? Loosen the filter, let it drain. On mine I don't get any oil anywhere but a little on that little diagonal bar. Just take your time with it. If you just spin it off at once I imagine it'll make a mess, but I've never gotten more than a couple drops splash out of the drip pan...

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CanuckQx4
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Well on my qx4 there is a 4" wide cross brace or something right therer under the filter and the oil gushes all over that...

Id love to stop that...

I almost wanna get a filter relocation kit...

Do they make them for our cars???

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fueler
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i believe theres not enough room for an oil filter relo kit.... pezzy can you confirm this??

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CanuckQx4
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Do we possibly have an M20 X 1.5" thread??

Maybe this one would work perfect...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX-OIL ... ccessories

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fueler
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SixGuns
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Flushing is potentially harmful to the internal seals in the engine. Basically a flush is a pressurized detergent that cleans the gunk out. But it's not so good for your motor. Take care of your stuff and that wont be necessary. I use Penzoil Platnum..and the trick to getting no oil everywhere? It's called a ZipLock sandwich bag. Loosen the filter first, then place the bag over the whole thing and spin off. All the oil drains into the bag and not on your arms and face. I only figured that out 'cause my wife's Tacoma has a stupid little catch that the filter sits in that holds JUST enough to not overflow. But then the drain for it is capped with a rubber nipple and you can either let the oil drain all over the front suspension and coolant hoses or use up 1/2 a roll of paper towels. But only 1 ziplock baggie and you're set. The only reason I'd consider an oil filter relocation kit is so I don't have to drop my 40 lbs skid plate every time I do an oil change. ...Cuz it sucks. Thanks, Adam.

WPGQX4
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Amsoil makes a relocation kit for our pathys and Q's.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx
PM me if you want more info.

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Densetsu
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Chuck Tribolet wrote:Do some homework on the web about filter brands. There are some comparison sites. Wix does well, but can be hard to find.
One of the most informative sites out there: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

I'd agree, Wix is king. In Canada, you can just stroll into a NAPA and get their in-house filter; silver or gold, they're both made by Wix. Most other major retailers here (at least in Western Canada) only carry Fram and Quaker State, both of which are lower grade filters (though admittedly, 99% of the time they'll do just fine).

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funnyman82
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do you guys raise your vehicle to do the oil change or do u leave it on the ground? is the OEM filter no good?

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speedeast
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WPGQX4 wrote:Amsoil makes a relocation kit for our pathys and Q's.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx
PM me if you want more info.
It has to be the BMK23, BMK25, BMK26, or the BMK27 because it must also include the full-flow filter in order to relocate it. Just wanted to throw that out there.

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speedeast
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funnyman82 wrote:do you guys raise your vehicle to do the oil change or do u leave it on the ground? is the OEM filter no good?
I HAVE to raise mine, but I'm sure the Pathies and Qs can stay on the ground. The OEM filter is just fine, it's designed to be good enough for that car. They wouldn't use a filter that could possibly lead to Warranty work...

BTW, oil filter relocation kit that doesn't have a bypass filter:

Transdapt 1158
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans%20Dapt/969/ ... /-1?CT=999

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KyooX4
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You don't have to jack the front end up. But if you don't, you'll probably want a creeper to make it a little easier moving around. You don't need either though.

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Densetsu
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I'm a big guy -- 6'3", 265lbs, size 40 waist -- and I can change my oil without raising the Pathy.

Admittedly, it's more comfortable to do an oil change with ramps or jackstands -- the biggest pain is swapping the "skid guard" on and off. But raising the Pathy/QX4 isn't required, unless you've got a bigger gut that me.

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CanuckQx4
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I must not have this skid plate you guys all have. My oil pan and filter is open to your hands

I dont jack my car up, Just a piece of carpet on the riveway and drain n fill the biatch

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AJRK
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Do you guys use a power drill to remove skid plates or just do them manually?

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KyooX4
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I use an air ratchet. Just faster.

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exvin
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Yea the skid plates/guards I think I am going to have to do by hand as I dont have a cordless drill

Also not going to jack it up, I can slide rite under, trust me I tried :)

I dont think Canada sells WiX filters though, I have been checking around locally and my local Canadian Tire and Walmart dont seem to carry it. I may have to check a performance shop

I may change out my air filter while I am at it. I have one of those paper filters, may switch to a K&N, unless you guys have any suggestions on that also

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NutsPathfinder
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I use K&N oil filter and as soon as I get around to it I am gonna get the K&N air filter as well. If I rember correctly the plastic skidplate should be held on with regular philp screws. A regular hand held screwdriver should be fine. Mine got torn off somewhere along the line so I put on the steel one from 4x4parts, its bolted up so it is easier to take of with a cordless.


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