Q45 Zeal Coil Overs and Complete Sway Bar kit a Reality
I have not sent in the specs yet for the Sway Bars. That is why I'm talking to the Forum. I want to know. What would you guys want to purchase.
What combination would you perfer. I need the size that you would most perfer. I am trying to help out the Q45 community. What Sway Bars would you pefer to have in your Q45.
What size front and what size rear. I have the A Bar in the rear and it is way to soft for me, and it doesn't handle well. I want my Q45 to be able to keep up with S13 when it comes to taking turns in mountain passes.
I am not get much imput on what you guys want, all I'm hearing is what you guys don't want. If I don't get imput then it can't and won't happen.
The company and the vender have already agreed to make this happen, but I need help from you guys. What would the Majority perfer.
What combination would you perfer. I need the size that you would most perfer. I am trying to help out the Q45 community. What Sway Bars would you pefer to have in your Q45.
What size front and what size rear. I have the A Bar in the rear and it is way to soft for me, and it doesn't handle well. I want my Q45 to be able to keep up with S13 when it comes to taking turns in mountain passes.
I am not get much imput on what you guys want, all I'm hearing is what you guys don't want. If I don't get imput then it can't and won't happen.
The company and the vender have already agreed to make this happen, but I need help from you guys. What would the Majority perfer.
Knight,
Hang with us.. Believe me, I know it can be frustrating when you find some awesome parts for the Q, but you need others help..
The main problem is, we haven't had much experience with these larger bars, so it's basically a crap shoot..
What we all want is M5 handling (.9G+) while retaining as much as the original smoothness as possible. I must say the M5 does this very very well..
I and a very few other members, actually track their Q45s... most of NICO, drive them on the street (not to say they don't haul some booty, but it's still street booty!)
I wouldn't mind larger bars at the expense of some ride quality, as I'm looking to take my Q to a whole different level... I also have the added benefit of the active suspension soaking up some of the ride loss, that may be experienced with the larger bars...
Hang in there, trust me... We are very very close to getting some EXTREME Q45s on the street... Don't give up.. The Q deserves M5 performance, and with members dedicating their time to this goal, we can achieve it.
Hang with us.. Believe me, I know it can be frustrating when you find some awesome parts for the Q, but you need others help..
The main problem is, we haven't had much experience with these larger bars, so it's basically a crap shoot..
What we all want is M5 handling (.9G+) while retaining as much as the original smoothness as possible. I must say the M5 does this very very well..
I and a very few other members, actually track their Q45s... most of NICO, drive them on the street (not to say they don't haul some booty, but it's still street booty!)
I wouldn't mind larger bars at the expense of some ride quality, as I'm looking to take my Q to a whole different level... I also have the added benefit of the active suspension soaking up some of the ride loss, that may be experienced with the larger bars...
Hang in there, trust me... We are very very close to getting some EXTREME Q45s on the street... Don't give up.. The Q deserves M5 performance, and with members dedicating their time to this goal, we can achieve it.
sheeiiittt!!!!! might as well count me in (75% postive I'll do it with you all) on some new sway bars. I just dropped $4,000 on a new LevelTen transmission that I really did not need as my current transmission is basically 99% trouble free after the rebuild, but I want to shave at least 0.75 secs off the 1/4 mile as they claim the new transmission transfers power much more efficiently from the flywheel to the rear wheels with shifts that are 50% quicker than OEM. Besides that I am doing what our Aussy friend did and going with a 1992 transmission in my 1995 car for the lower #1 & #2 gears to improve acceleration. I should have the new transmission and 4.08 rearend here by late next week, but I still won't have my ECU/TCU yet.....come on JWT hurry your arse up....Please :pface
RSI, Couldn't wait for the group buy 
Can't blame you buddy.. You are the only I've seen that is fiending Q45 performance as much, or more then me... Good job.. Let me know how it feels when you get that baby put in...
I think you should shave 1 full second off, with the level ten/torque convertor & 4.08... Which means you now have a 1/4 more close to the big boys, but more high end power..
Damn honda accord 240 hp coupe 6 speed gets to 60 in 6.2 seconds... we need this mods to keep our beasts with these newer cars off the line... Once we get to freeway speeds, where weight doesn't matter, our v8 will prevail
Can't blame you buddy.. You are the only I've seen that is fiending Q45 performance as much, or more then me... Good job.. Let me know how it feels when you get that baby put in...I think you should shave 1 full second off, with the level ten/torque convertor & 4.08... Which means you now have a 1/4 more close to the big boys, but more high end power..
Damn honda accord 240 hp coupe 6 speed gets to 60 in 6.2 seconds... we need this mods to keep our beasts with these newer cars off the line... Once we get to freeway speeds, where weight doesn't matter, our v8 will prevail
AZ94Q.....Sorry for jumping ahead on the LevelTen group buy, but I had found a core way ahead of time that was a good deal and could not pass up. I talked with Sam at LevelTen and he said that he would work something out with us if we still had at least 3 people(including myself) rebuilding these trannys before the end of June as he understands that not everyone is going to be able to send the transmission's all at the same time. He said that the discount would still probably be in in the $400-$500 range as I was really cautious about doing this so early and then the good deal that I got on my transmission core would not be a good deal. He said that he would refund the difference in monies for a group buy to me if we got 3 people including myself by the end of June. That means with trannies shipped there before the end of June. I told him that we had a one of a kind Stillen Q45 that would be delivered in May and that transmission was a definite so we only needed one more person...yourself, maybe doogdo, or someone else before the end of June to get the good deal. Who knows what will happen to someone's transmission within the next 2 months as my old transmission worked fine one day and then the next it would not go into reverse anymore. Eitherway, I will find out in 2 weeks if this thing works....that is sticking a 1992 transmission in a 1995 car as I am sure that his transmission systems do work as he claims. If it doesn't work (92 vs. 95)....then crap!!! Somebody want to buy a good 1992 LevelTen transmission will be the post of the day!!!!
Thanks for the "hit me up" support on all the mods to my Q. It is all coming from a $10,000 savings that I was going to use on a downpayment for a new or newer car, but then decided to spend it on the Q and pump a little life into it after I found you all here on this forum while searching for a new car. I will rest when I get the 1/4 in 14.0 and the 0-60 in 6.0. This last one....the transmission really broke the piggy bank....yyeeeooouuuucchhh!!! Piggy Squel Piggy Squel
Thanks for the "hit me up" support on all the mods to my Q. It is all coming from a $10,000 savings that I was going to use on a downpayment for a new or newer car, but then decided to spend it on the Q and pump a little life into it after I found you all here on this forum while searching for a new car. I will rest when I get the 1/4 in 14.0 and the 0-60 in 6.0. This last one....the transmission really broke the piggy bank....yyeeeooouuuucchhh!!! Piggy Squel Piggy Squel
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AZhitman
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Hmmmmm.... I have a 30K mile 94 takeout transmission just sitting, lonely and sad, waiting for something bad to happen in my Q....
Wish I had $3K burning a hole in my pocket!
BTW, as regards the RSB, the 20mm should be sufficient. I don't think I'd want it any stiffer, as it already skitters wildly under hard outta-the-hole acceleration. You can effectively INCREASE the effect of the rear by loosening the front.
Course, i shimmed the mounts and added poly bushings...
Wish I had $3K burning a hole in my pocket!
BTW, as regards the RSB, the 20mm should be sufficient. I don't think I'd want it any stiffer, as it already skitters wildly under hard outta-the-hole acceleration. You can effectively INCREASE the effect of the rear by loosening the front.
Course, i shimmed the mounts and added poly bushings...
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
One thing worth noting is that Q45tech returned to the rubber bushings after the polyurethane bushings bent his bar and accellerated the demise of his rear subframe bushings.
Q45tech:
I have spent over $5,000 in parts cost alone experimenting with every changeable aspect in every combination [3 different rear sway bars, 2 different front bars, stock and lowering springs [even front/rear mixed], bushings, rear sub frame, new front cradle, and suspension arm replacements.Not to mention hand making rubber bushings and isolators out of 5 different durometer rubber stocks. Extra vibration dampers on exhaust....have a few more tricks using urethane suspension foam and strategic sound deadening in doors.
Oh! I started out with urethane till I bent two sets of end links [the heavy duty ones supplied with bar]. Then I tried various combinations of rubber/urethane finally all rubber. The problem is the 4:1 reduction 1" of wheel movement is only 1/4" of movement at the end link......very very hard to make a fine adjustment that stays the way you want it.....what happens is nothing then wham a sudden stiffening which will cause a lack of smoothness and snap oversteer with rubber bushings. Severe oscillations when you whipsaw the steering again due to the inability of shocks to provide adequate control over something twice as stiff as they were designed for!!!!!!!!!
By the way some of my driving bent the bar a 3/4" permanently part of the reason why the rear subframe needed replacement......Repeat after me! The Q45 is not a rock climbing SUV but can be used as such for a limited time if repair costs are not important.
Q45tech:
I have spent over $5,000 in parts cost alone experimenting with every changeable aspect in every combination [3 different rear sway bars, 2 different front bars, stock and lowering springs [even front/rear mixed], bushings, rear sub frame, new front cradle, and suspension arm replacements.Not to mention hand making rubber bushings and isolators out of 5 different durometer rubber stocks. Extra vibration dampers on exhaust....have a few more tricks using urethane suspension foam and strategic sound deadening in doors.
Oh! I started out with urethane till I bent two sets of end links [the heavy duty ones supplied with bar]. Then I tried various combinations of rubber/urethane finally all rubber. The problem is the 4:1 reduction 1" of wheel movement is only 1/4" of movement at the end link......very very hard to make a fine adjustment that stays the way you want it.....what happens is nothing then wham a sudden stiffening which will cause a lack of smoothness and snap oversteer with rubber bushings. Severe oscillations when you whipsaw the steering again due to the inability of shocks to provide adequate control over something twice as stiff as they were designed for!!!!!!!!!
By the way some of my driving bent the bar a 3/4" permanently part of the reason why the rear subframe needed replacement......Repeat after me! The Q45 is not a rock climbing SUV but can be used as such for a limited time if repair costs are not important.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
It's all about the RATIO of front to rear stiffness.........not necessarily the total stiffness at each end.
Roughly by using a 1mm softer front the REAR ratio is like you went from a 20mm bar to a 21mm rear bar.
In my case with the stiffer front springs the less stiff front bar made the sum total of front stiffness the same as oem........whereas the rear stiffness jumped up from say 370 [in 3" roll] to say 570 [due to progressive springs and 20mm bar]......roughly 50% stiffer at 3" but only about 15-20% stiffer than oem [no rear bar] at 1" roll.
The same G forces roll the rear 3" [oem] and may roll 2.25" with my set up.
We are not trying to eliminate rear roll entirely only tune for neutral steering.........sometimes the term rear sway bar confuses, yes it does reduce rear body sway but not so much.
If you doubled the rear stiffness 123> 246 per inch, you would still have more than half the sway..........the rear subframe willl move up to 3/4 inch with enough pressure.
Progressive springs act like a progressive sway bar or just like using a really stiff bar with lots of rubber isolation that compressed as the bar engages..............unfortunately shocks can't be made progressive in the same way. They are time dependent not distance dependent.
Whereas in the active system distance roll angle is measured at each wheel [well really the lower suspension arm height is measured]..........assuming the tires react as oem design it is close to the same thing.
The active system was smart enough to adjust for tire differences over a narrow range.
Roughly by using a 1mm softer front the REAR ratio is like you went from a 20mm bar to a 21mm rear bar.
In my case with the stiffer front springs the less stiff front bar made the sum total of front stiffness the same as oem........whereas the rear stiffness jumped up from say 370 [in 3" roll] to say 570 [due to progressive springs and 20mm bar]......roughly 50% stiffer at 3" but only about 15-20% stiffer than oem [no rear bar] at 1" roll.
The same G forces roll the rear 3" [oem] and may roll 2.25" with my set up.
We are not trying to eliminate rear roll entirely only tune for neutral steering.........sometimes the term rear sway bar confuses, yes it does reduce rear body sway but not so much.
If you doubled the rear stiffness 123> 246 per inch, you would still have more than half the sway..........the rear subframe willl move up to 3/4 inch with enough pressure.
Progressive springs act like a progressive sway bar or just like using a really stiff bar with lots of rubber isolation that compressed as the bar engages..............unfortunately shocks can't be made progressive in the same way. They are time dependent not distance dependent.
Whereas in the active system distance roll angle is measured at each wheel [well really the lower suspension arm height is measured]..........assuming the tires react as oem design it is close to the same thing.
The active system was smart enough to adjust for tire differences over a narrow range.