Q45 Subwoofers

Post by **revil86** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 5:54 pm

1993, which way do i face it?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 5:57 pm

I see.

Take a look at this:zer...age=3

That's for the G50. What do you think about that setup? Not much phase cancellation occuring there

*edit* In a few days i'll start copying it and selling the enclosure to nico members. More then likely i'll cover them with carpet rather then paint

Post by **revil86** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:42 pm

what? the fiberglass boxits nice but how big of a sub can you fit in there?you got a ballpark for a price?how would one secure it to the trunk so it dont go flyin around?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:45 am

Currently it's made for a 12in and smaller sub. If I pushed the front of it out more I could mount a 15 in there if you so desired.

Price: I was thinking in the $200 neighborhood. I personally think that this is on the low end of the price scale. If you don't believe me just take a look at Q-logic boxs.

Well, like rex said, it's currently using the "tension mount" holding method, also known as "push it until it stays". But I could attach some velcro to the back of it to make sure that it stays put. I don't really think even that is necessary though because it's a pretty tight fit to begin with

Post by **nchopp** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:14 am

How much work would it be to flip the design around so you could have one on the driver AND passenger side?

Post by **heywier427** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 12:48 pm

ive got 3 12 inch fosgate dvcs in the trunk and 2 10 inch solor barrics where the 6/9s were. to get the sound into the car i cut out the map box and covered it with a mathing carpet looks sweat sounds even better. ive won many sound comps in ct nj 168 dbs max broke the b window once and have to drive with the sunroof open!!!!

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:13 pm

nchopp wrote:How much work would it be to flip the design around so you could have one on the driver AND passenger side?

Oh, not much. Just have to redo the whole process, starting with the masking tape. If that's what you absolutely wanted I could do that for you, but unless more people would be interested in that setup I'd have to charge a little more

heywier427 wrote:ive got 3 12 inch fosgate dvcs in the trunk and 2 10 inch solor barrics where the 6/9s were. to get the sound into the car i cut out the map box and covered it with a mathing carpet looks sweat sounds even better. ive won many sound comps in ct nj 168 dbs max broke the b window once and have to drive with the sunroof open!!!!

Um... What are your mains? If you tell me stock I'll have to hurt you

Post by **revil86** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:39 pm

how could i get 10s to fit where the 6x9s are? and where could i get some carpet like you used?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:33 am

You would have to cut the metal of the rear deck. OR you could mount the 10(s) raised slightly above the rear deck with the magnet structure sticking down through the stock 6x9 hole. I personally would go with the latter method as I wouldn't want to compromise the vehicle structure. YOu could probably get away with mounting it/them about 1~2in above the deck. That'd give you enough clearance, and maintain visibility. Not you'd have to have some descent fabrication skills as you would have to rework the entire rear deck cover.

As for the carpet. Look in the phone book under automotive. Specifically automotice textiles

Post by **revil86** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 6:37 pm

rework the rear deck cover? what do you mean?o and where's the best place to run an amp wire through the firewall of a G50? with or without drilling?

Post by **nchopp** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:00 am

http://www.q45.org/subwiring.html

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 6:55 am

revil86 wrote:rework the rear deck cover? what do you mean?QUOTE]If you mounted the sub above the deck like I suggested you'd have to use something to build up the area around it so you'd have something to mount the driver too. I personally would you fiberglass and fleece combined with a MDF ring.

Doing this would make it so you couldn't use the rear deck cover though. So you'd have to make a new one. You do it the easy way and use carpet for this

revil86 wrote:o and where's the best place to run an amp wire through the firewall of a G50? with or without drilling?
I don't know the answer to that(guy below linked it), but I've found it very easy to just run the wire outside of the car, along side the fuel lines.

Post by **revil86** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:35 pm

nicei was thinking about using fiberglass to make a mold of the old rear deck, but i have no experienceit looks like this could be a good time to start

Post by **revil86** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:38 pm

o yeah, i was taking a look today at the space where the map box used to be and perhaps an 8" sub can fit in there, no?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:47 pm

yep, it could fit.

If you don't want to have to make an enclosure for it you should get a sub that's designed to run in an Infinite Baffle setup

Post by **revil86** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:32 pm

infinite baffle setup? is that like a free air sub?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:01 pm

well, free air doesn't have a baffle at all. Meaning the driver is just sitting there not mounted.

Infinite Baffle uses a baffle(mount) for the driver, but no enclosure for the rear. It is open to a large volume of air. The front and rear waves should NEVER come in contact though or cancellation will occur.

Post by **revil86** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:37 am

o, i got you nowi guess thats the best way to mount 8" subs in the rear

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 9:19 am

well, it's the easiest way to mount them. To some this is the best way, to some it is not.

I personally like the way IB subs sound. They are very "open" with none of the normal nuances found with standard enclosures

Post by **revil86** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 4:54 pm

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 5:11 pm

One of the "Drawbacks" that alot of people see in the IB setup is that you don't get too much "oomph" from the sub. Let me rephrase that, you don't get as much "oomph" as you would if it were in a normal enclosure, but obviously this is natural sinse there is no constant airspring in an IB setup.

ANyways, an IB 8 in the rear deck would be a good addition

Post by **revil86** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:08 pm

i wanted to use the BOSE amps from the rear speakers just as an experimentis that a bright idea?like using relays and the remote turn on lead from my alpine radio

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:25 pm

you can do that. I think you'll need a converter from PAC to use the bose amps though. This is the easiest way.

Post by **revil86** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:32 pm

i heard my mechanic suggesting a four prong bosch relay. can i use that?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:42 pm

yep, that'd work.

You'd hook up constant power to the relay, and then hav ethe relay switched on and off by the remote turn on from the HU.

Then you have to send the actual signal to the amps.

Post by **revil86** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:42 pm

you mean like a line out converter?

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:56 pm

I don't know exactly what type of signal the bose amps use

It's probably a standard RCA signal without the ends. Each side has a signal and ground line

Post by **revil86** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:59 pm

im gonna try to use the HU rear speaker signals this weekend, maybe there will be prgress

PMQ, thanks for all your help and allyou are the man

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:07 pm

hopefully that works. I'm not too sure about the signal part though. The power part is easy.

I would recommend that you take a cheap RCA cable long enough to reach to the trunk, and cut the ends off of one side. You'll notice that within each cable there are two wires. Oh yeah, first note which is left and right. Strip back some of the wire on both the rca cable and where it connects to the amp. Then just for testing twist the wires together. Meaning left ground on cable to ground on left amp, positive to positive, and the same for the right side. Then try it out. After you hook up the power relay of course

Post by **pdqwrx** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:17 pm

Hello, the signal from the factory Bose headunit is a preamp signal and it is rather fragile. I wouldn't use a line output converter because those are designed to "Cut" the speaker output of a amp down to preamp levels. You could use one on the output of the Bose amp but thats kinda silly. I recomend checking out davidnavone.com and get a N-686 heres the link http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm This will give you the transformer isolation you need to keep noise out of the system and to keep the stock preamp section from shutting down. It has regular "Speaker wire" in and out and I would put female RCA ends on the outputs and then plug what ever length RCA cable you need to your amp. This way you will get maximum signal into your amp and the lowest chance of noise and pops and stuff.

Good Luck Scott

Q45 Subwoofers

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Re: Q45 Subwoofers (revil86)

Re: (nchopp)

Re: Q45 Subwoofers (heywier427)

Re: (revil86)

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