Q45 Oil Pan R&R advice

[Q45tech]

Do not remove the pressure control solenoid from the rack!

[squeefoo]

Q1: Yes it will come off. When you have the entire crossmember off, you can loosen the top bolt on the joint. Mine is accessable from the top (?!)Lube it up good with SiliKroil and get it loose for the time it's reinstalled, so it can slide up out of the way.

Electrical connector: The circled w/yellow bolts do not need to be removed, just the connector. On mine it appears to clip in approx. the middle of the car, follow the wire loom from the picture to the end where it clips.

Yes the entire crossmember has to come off, Wes is right. It also appears that the steering rack can be unbolted and left to hang, instead of disconnecting all the hydraulic lines. It doesn't look like the crossmember is real heavy -I'd guess ~ 70# and could be lowered with a floor jack and some balance and care. Since I haven't taken mine apart I can't really say with certainty.

Yes it is a big job, but look at all the experience you've gained from just this. You're doing great. PS: If you are stuck in quicksand how do you cross the river? (!!??) j/k

[elwesso]

I agree with Danny... Replace them!!! Hopefully you wont have a reason to do such again, do it once do it right... Dont forget about those rack bushigns too!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I actually forgot to recommend using deep sockets... I used deep sockets for all of mine..

This is PRECISELY why I am choosy about what other people will do on my Q...

Quote »just for me, a pair of coveralls which I always wanted (I'm tired of ruining my jeans and tops).[/quote]

I dedicated a pair of pants and a sweatshirt to working on the Q... This is what an engine removal will do to a pair of pants....

Electrical connector: The circled w/yellow bolts do not need to be removed, just the connector. On mine it appears to clip in approx. the middle of the car, follow the wire loom from the picture to the end where it clips.

Hes right..... Its located in the middle ish, youll see it... Thats the only one what will pertain to you, there are others that are required for engine removal....

Q1: Is my assumption reasonable that removing only the lower bolt of the steering lower joint will work? I couldn't get the upper bolt off. I'm assuming the crossmember is heavy enough to pull the lowest shaft out of the joint at the bottom.

Q2: It remains to be seen whether the engine gusset really has to be removed (I'm hoping I can get to that last hidden oilpan bolt from the side once the crossmember is moved out of the way).

Q3: How on earth am I going to keep the crossmember from falling down if I do not remove the steering rack from the crossmember (should I just bite the bullet and remove the remaining four bolts holding the steering rack to the crossmember?) It seems the crossmember, being very heavy, will be in my way the whole time I'm working on the oil pan if I don't remove it from the car.

1. Yes.. I just loosened both err took them out, and when I lowered it down it came right off... Just spray some of that lube stuff on there and youll be fine... It goes on MUCH easier than it goes off, but we will have to make sure you get your steering wheel aligned right, as thats something I messed up on Jesda's car... When we get to putting it back togther, i will expound...

2. I guess time will tell.. Unsure yet, but I bet theres a way.....

3. You are right... Just use the jacks as said, I dont know how heavy it is, but if its the same as all the other componetnts, they look heavy but arent at all..... I dare say the engine cross member may be easily liftable by hand... You *****gotta***** remove it regardless... The steering rack isnt very heavy, I was able to easliy manipulate it around when I did rack bushigns... There is only one high pressure hydraulic line that you need to worry about, if memory serves.....

Also as dennis said DO NOT remove the solenoid..... only time it should be is if it needs replaced.....

Ill bust out some of my photos to try and help.....

[elwesso]

In hindisght, I would easily tackle an engine replacement on a Q again, assuming I had a way to jack the car up high enough...

[911/Q45]

On the Q pulling the engine involves just what she's doing, it comes out the bottom.

[elwesso]

Bascially if she had a a way to jack the car up higher, and a cherry picker, she could just as easily drop the engine.. Like an extra 30-60 mins TOPS just to remove varios connectors, fan shroud, and so on..

I would never be hesitant to an engine swap on another Q after doing it to mine...

[tangalora]

Bascially an extra 30-60 mins TOPS just to remove various connectors, fan shroud, and so on...

I already removed all the plastic on the cowl (for the third leg of the engine support) and I removed the fan shroud (to get to the alternator & belts).

But, more importantly, I"M CONFUSED.

WHICH BOLTS need to come off to remove the steering rack from the crossmember?

At first we thought there were ten nuts to remove on the crossmember (5 on each side); but am I supposed to remove the steering rack from the crossmember? I must've missed that step so please re-advise to clarify.

If I am to remove the steering rack from the crossmember, I suspect the four bolts (see photo below) nearer the center of the crossmember (two on each side) are the correct bolts? Please advise.

Also, I ordered already the driver & passenger side steering rack bushings (8 dollars & 6 dollars respectively) from Joe. While talking to Joe, he intimated the bushings go OUTSIDE the steering rack. I looked at the exploded diagrams INSIDE the steering rack. I'd really rather not take the steering rack apart so can you advise where those two bushings are to go when they arrive?

Lastly, in the move from New York to here, I made a mess of the house. Then, in the time while my wrist healed, I lost the 16 dollar silicone stuff Joe sent me for the oil pan gasket. I'll look for it, but, if I don't find it, can the red permatex RTV work just as well?

Sorry for so many questions. The deeper I go, the more questions seem to be raised.The good news is the answer is available to everyone who follows us.

[elwesso]

Tanglaora... I think your misunderstanding me...

Leave the steering rack hooked on to the member..... More importantly, i dont know if its *possible* to remove the steering rack with the cross member in place..... Its not adding *that* much weight......

Steering rack bushings are attached to the OUTSIDE of the rack... what tehy do is hold it in place, and allow it some play... when they get worn out, they have the symptoms of the steering wheel not centering right, and so on.. but since the extra labor is nil almost, your stupid not to replace them... You wont have to take apart anything on the rack... just replace the bushigns on the OUTSIDE. attached is a photo helping you out...

I dont know, i think RTV might be ok.....

Also, when you quoted me, I was replying to someone else.....

[mixatonia]

just replace the bushigns on the OUTSIDE. attached is a photo helping you out...

I dont see no photo. I'm curious too where these bushings are. My steering wheel shakes like the dikens on the freewya. Can you post photo again to help me.

[squeefoo]

Yes the two bolts in the picture (as well as two others) hold the power steering rack in. What those bolts do is hold down two U -shaped brackets, which in tighten around the rubber bushings, which slip around the aluminum tube, thereby holding the rack in place (a sandwich). After a few years the rubber bushing take a set (shrink) and are less pliable from hot/cold, ozone, oil, grease; making them more prone to allow the rack to slip from side to side when steering input is applied. Also if the bushings shrink it can lead to vibrations at the steering wheel. Obviously much easier now insted of doing all this twice. Not sure if the rack stays on or not since I haven't done it.

I personally use Permatex copper.

[tangalora]

Steering rack bushings are attached to the OUTSIDE of the rack... You wont have to take apart anything on the rack... just replace the bushigns on the OUTSIDE. Attached is a photo helping you out...

Your diagram helps immensly! I'm glad the steering rack doesn't have to be taken apart.

Thanks for taking the time to point out those two steering "rack mounting insulators" (I haven't yet received them from Joe).

Armed with your diagram, I see a similar (if not the same) one in the 1990 Infiniti Q45 Factory Shop Manual (FSM) in the section titled "Power Stearing Gear & Linkage (Model PR26SE)" on page ST-15 (diagram SST511B). However, I don't see an R&R for the rack mounting insulators.

Is the photo below correctly pointing to the passenger side "rack mounting insulator"? I'm still confused because it appears the two bolts holding the rack to the crossmember are the same bolts (are they?) holding the u-shaped brackets holding the steering "rack mounting insulators". ??? Or does the rack mounting insulator get removed some other way (presumably they are doughnut shaped so something has to give somewhere to remove them).

P.S. I do see the electrical connector previously mentioned. Thanks for that admonition to disconnect that. I wonder what it controls.

[Q451990]

Your arrow is actually pointing to the rack housing, but yes - it's the rubber bushing immediately to it's left. There's a similar one on the other side. I'd go ahead and replace the rack boots at the same time, since the real expense is having a new alignment when you're done. The boots are less than $15 each.

Heath

[elwesso]

Tang.. you wont be replacing until the cross member is OUT of the car.. Which will be MUCH easier..... You cant really see them now because the bracket pretty much covers them up.. Just gotta know theyre there!!

Is the photo below correctly pointing to the passenger side "rack mounting insulator"? I'm still confused because it appears the two bolts holding the rack to the crossmember are the same bolts (are they?) holding the u-shaped brackets holding the steering "rack mounting insulators". ??? Or does the rack mounting insulator get removed some other way (presumably they are doughnut shaped so something has to give somewhere to remove them).

Your correct, they are the same bolts.. But due to the placement, you cannot replace the steering rack with the cross member in place... The bushings are cut so that you wrap them around the rack...

the connector is the thing that connects to the power steering solenoid, i think

[squeefoo]

P.S. I do see the electrical connector previously mentioned. Thanks for that admonition to disconnect that. I wonder what it controls.

Q45Tech recently described it's operation. I forgot.

[tangalora]

Tang.. you wont be replacing until the cross member is OUT of the car... You're correct, they are the same bolts.

OK, I think I've got it. I want to mentally rehearse the steps for the actual removal of the "iron cross of death" before I do anything brash. What's been confusing me about the steering rack bushings is that the steering "tie rods" are still attached to the wheel (I think) so that rack isn't going to go anywhere (it seems to me) but flop around when I remove the crossmember --- yet the steering rack won't even flop around as it's boltd to the crossmember. Does my dilemma make sense?

How can I remove the crossmember without removing the steering rack if the steering rack is tightly bolted to the crossmember? It doesn't seem to make sense to me (but I might be missing something that is obvious to you).

I was hoping to finish this job this weekend and do a write up with photos for the next person to sail right through, but a family emergency came up and I have to fly to Kennedy tomorrow morning so, I won't be back on this 'till all the turkey day leftovers have been eaten and we begin the new week of work.

Thanks guys ... I'll catch up with you when I get back.Tang

[elwesso]

OK, I think I've got it. I want to mentally rehearse the steps for the actual removal of the "iron cross of death" before I do anything brash. What's been confusing me about the steering rack bushings is that the steering "tie rods" are still attached to the wheel (I think) so that rack isn't going to go anywhere (it seems to me) but flop around when I remove the crossmember --- yet the steering rack won't even flop around as it's boltd to the crossmember. Does my dilemma make sense?

How can I remove the crossmember without removing the steering rack if the steering rack is tightly bolted to the crossmember? It doesn't seem to make sense to me (but I might be missing something that is obvious to you).

I was hoping to finish this job this weekend and do a write up with photos for the next person to sail right through, but a family emergency came up and I have to fly to Kennedy tomorrow morning so, I won't be back on this 'till all the turkey day leftovers have been eaten and we begin the new week of work.

Thanks guys ... I'll catch up with you when I get back.Tang

Like I said before the steering rack WILL REMAIN ATTACHED TO THE CROSS MEMBER!!! You will replace the bushings when the cross member and its related components are off the car..... Everything susupension and steering related is bolted to the crossmember, so it will come off...

Unfortunately, since you havent gotten the member off the car, im not so sure youll be getting this done in one weekend, unless you bust arse..... Just speaking from DIY experience, big jobs like this never take the allotted time unless you really know what your doing (and you certainly like to prepare on everything)...

So lets review...

Right now, you essentially have the crossmember ready to come out... The engine is supported from above, the suspension is taken out... Basically all you have to do is unbolt the member from the car, drop it down, DROP THE OIL PAN (I think we're forgetting the object of this whole job), repair and replace the oil pan and other components (hopefully the oil strainer isnt bad), and then put it all back together....

While the crossmember is out, you will replace things like the motor mounts (I hope) and the steering rack bushings... THis shouldnt add much labor..

Might be getting a little ahead of myself, but are you planning on doing like a "summary" using some of the pics youve taken.... if so, id really appreciate an article we could use to put on Q45.org and also on NICO.....

[tangalora]

While the crossmember is out, you will replace things like the motor mounts and the steering rack bushings...

Those two mounts are dangling teasingly (tauntingly) right now.I don't know how to remove them from the engine.Since it's not oil pan related, per se, in an existing separate thread http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=1963 (www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=1963) I appended a question on how best to remove the last (top) nut on those two dangling motor mounts.

Also, the two steering rack bushings are not oil pan related, per se, so I posted photos of them (and the parts from Joe) in the existing separate thread http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=90711 (www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=90711).

I'd really appreciate an article we could use to put on Q45.org and also on NICO...

Any time. The whole reason I take a thousand photos per job (sunvisor, fuel pump, brakes, etc.) is to help others do what I couldn't (at first) do. In my opinion, you guys do all the work by answering my (sometimes stoopid) questions. I learn from you. In that spirit, I plan on typing up the writeup I've already handwritten on the back of a printout of this thread for a complete oil pan R&R. That way, everyone after us benefits from our efforts. Of course, I'm not done yet - still peeling the onion - and finding (undocumented) surprises - but, together we'll get there (I hope) after the last few stumbling blocks are overcome (see below).

... Basically all you have to do is unbolt the member from the car, drop it down, DROP THE OIL PAN, replace the oil pan and other components (hopefully the oil strainer isnt bad), and then put it all back together....

I wish it were that simple (or am I doing something wrong?).This oilpan R&R is (exasperatingly) sort of like peeling an (undocumented) onion.

For example, now that I lowered the front engine crossmember, I can see more of the 18 oil pan bolts. However, the rear oilpan bolts are occluded by some kind of transmission supports with funny-looking capped nuts (see photo).

Hmmmm ... how did we miss this step?

In the '90 FSM, on page AT-117 (diagram SAT769C) seems to be an arrow pointing to these braces with the caption:"Remove gusset securing engine to A/T assembly".

It appears that, while the front engine gusset is blocking one bolt, apparently two rear engine gussets (perhaps holding the transmission to the engine) seem to be blocking all of the rearward oil pan bolts. Whew!

Why aren't these two transmission gussets mentioned anywhere? There might be a hidden hint in the 90 FSM oilpan R&R (page EM-11), which provides the following (simple) directions:... remove steering lower joint ...... support the transmission ... <=== maybe due to these 2 gussets?... hoist engine with engine slinger ...... remove suspension member assembly ...... remove oil pan bolts and nuts ...... remove oil pan ...

Q: Must these two transmission gussets also be removed?

[squeefoo]

I would say yes. They don't hold on the trans., there are 6 - 8 large bolts holding the engine/trans together. These are just reinforcements.

I think also the outer tie rod ends must be removed from the steering knuckles, in order to properly lower the suspension member.

[tangalora]

the outer tie rod ends must be removed from the steering knuckles, in order to properly lower the suspension member.

Hmmmm ... the front engine crossmember is now out of my way (I think). See the photo below where it is dropping down held to the Q45 only by the steering rack, steering hoses, and steering tie-rod ends (I think).

If I were to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the steering rack to the crossmember, the crossmember would still be held to the Q45 by the tie rod ends (as you noted).

Removing the tie rod ends (even if I mark them) might change my alignment (toe-in perhaps?) so I'd rather not remove them unless I had to. Of course, toe is the easiest alignment task for a do-it-yourselfer such as I am (for example, eight feet of string, a nail on each end, some chalk to mark the tread center, and a tape measure should suffice).

However, I ask you: Q: Do I really need to completely remove the crossmember?It seems to be out of my way now that it hangs down 15 inches or so from the engine itself (see photo).

[DAEDALUS]

How heavy would you say that assembly is? I'm just wondering about stresses and odd angles on the rack/seals.

Is it the pic, or is your car raked at a really steep incline there? I'd like to see a profile pic!

Good job so far, I'm very impressed. Stay safe.

[tangalora]

How heavy is the x-member?What about stresses on the rack/seals.Is your Q raked at a steep incline

Q1: Does hanging the x-member on the steering cause too much stress?A1: I have no idea. Should I remove the rack immediately to prevent further damage? I suspect all I'd need to do is remove the four bolts and the x-member would pop free (I don't think I need to remove the tie rod ends anymore ... aren't they connected to the rack & not to the x-member)?

Q2: Is your Q45 on an incline.A2: Yes. See photo below. Ever since I moved into a "house on a hill", I've been getting good at working on the sloped driveway. For example, I wait 'till dropped tools & bolts roll down to the rear wheels to pick 'em up. Notice the new bottle jacks I bought also were too short. In hindsight, I should've measured the 18 inch height to the crossmember before buying those tools!

Q3: Why has nothing ever been said of the transmission gussets?A3: I have no idea why these haven't been noted anywhere before? Why have these two transmission gussets not been mentioned anywhere yet? I'm worried that I'd be doing the wrong thing by removing them.

Tang

[squeefoo]

I mentioned the tie rod ends since Wes said it had to stay on the X-member, I originally thought the bolts could be removed and let it hang -as you see now. It depends on whether you can/choose to work around it. It would be easier to remove the 4 bolts holding the rack on and let it hang, it wont hurt anything.

The transmission gussets are there to reinforce, not hold the trans. on, there should be no problem taking them off to get to the pan bolts.Not sure if you know the tops screw up and down on the bottle jacks. A piece of 2x4 laid just behind the work area will "catch" the rolling tools, saves a lot of up and down, off and on the creeper. You're doing well.

[tangalora]

Not sure if you know the tops screw up and down on the bottle jacks.

I did NOT know that!

In fact, I thought the new bottle jacks were both broken 'cause the box said the jack expanded to sixteen inches but no matter what I did, it only lengthened to about 13 inches or so. I was dissapointed (since my X-member is a good 18 inches above the ground before dropping it).

I was gonna return the two bottle jacks ('jes as soon as I find that receipt somewhere) 'cause I thought they 'was broken.

I'm constantly amazing myself at all the things I still don't know!

Tang

[elwesso]

Very impressive Miss T

I mentioned the tie rod ends since Wes said it had to stay on the X-member, I originally thought the bolts could be removed and let it hang -as you see now. It depends on whether you can/choose to work around it. It would be easier to remove the 4 bolts holding the rack on and let it hang, it wont hurt anything.

The transmission gussets are there to reinforce, not hold the trans. on, there should be no problem taking them off to get to the pan bolts.Not sure if you know the tops screw up and down on the bottle jacks. A piece of 2x4 laid just behind the work area will "catch" the rolling tools, saves a lot of up and down, off and on the creeper. You're doing well.

That is correct.. This is ****perfect**** time to replace your rack bushings.. Go ahead and seperate the rack from the member, and it can dangle there. Its just a tube, couldnt weight much at all, the hoses could hold it up anyway... Personally, if I had to chose, id figure out a way to remove the member from the car, and set it aside... You have enough crap to work around as it is.... Id even say its worht replacing a couple hoses if you have to cut it (just not the expesive Hi Pres hose with the screw on fittings)

You can also just remove your high pressure hose... Im having a hard time visualizing whats keeping the member up... There shouldnt be more than 2 hoses on the rack thats not integral with the rack itself...

Also, T, could you post a photo of the bottom of the oipan, so we can see as many bolts as possible, to see whats keeping it on... I guess focus on the rear......

I can tell your really getting burnt out on this project, but hang in there, were gonna get this done!!! Your Q **will** live!!

[tangalora]

I just came in to make a note of my mistakes that I don't want the next poor soul to make. Then I saw your post, so, I'll combine the two purposes.

You're perceptive. I really do wish I hadn't started this. Dennis was right. It's a big job. (Maybe not for Byron at T3, but certainly for an inexperienced amateur like I am). Anyway, about the only thing still keeping me going is you guys helping me out. It's wierd. I don't want to let you down (and the next poor soul with the same problem). It's kinda' sobering. All my friends are telling me to cut my losses & get rid of this sick bleeding Q ... and wierdly ... you guys are the only ones who really care to bring our beloved Q's back to life.

If I had to chose, I'd figure out a way to remove the member from the car, and set it aside ...

Thats what I came in to tell you. I just made a mistake doing just that.

I had to put the x-member back on just now 'cause there was no way I could spin out those four steering rack bolts with the x-member wobbling around like that.

There are no nuts on top ... just bolts from the bottom ... so we must use a 22mm socket for two of the bolts adding a 6 inch extension for the other two. A wrench at top won't work.

Therefore, my recommendation (for the future) is to loosen and/or remove the four steering rack bolts while the X-member is still on the Q!

I'm gonna' modify what our wise leader once recommended:- After you support the engine from above ...... first remove the engine from the x-member ... (4 motor mount nuts)... then remove the rack from the x-member ... (4 rack bolts)... lastly, remove the x-member from the car ... (6 x-member nuts)

I removed the two 10mm bolts holding the driver side set of (what looks like) power-steering hoses to the x-member and the one 10 mm bolt holding a similar hose assembly on the passenger side ... but still the heavy x-member was hung up.

In surveying what was holding the x-member still on the Q, I found a SECOND electrical connector with wires dangerously near the breaking point near the driver side of the rack. It was stretched so tightly, the wires might even be broken by now. What does this sensor do anyway?

My recommendation?Disconnect TWO electrical connectors before removing the crossmember from the car!

Removing the crossmember didn't seem to uncover a whole lotta' bolts. Sigh. All the rearward bolts are still obscured. Those two cap-bolt mounted gussets gotta' go. I can tell 'cause I compared the new oil pan 18 bolt holes with the few bolts I can see on the Q.

In the front, I haven't concluded the front engine gusset has to go yet (remember that reluctant alternator) ... but it does seem that one bolt is totally obscured by the gusset and removing the engine crossmember didn't grant me as much room as I had hoped to get at that hidden bolt from the side. (Note that the oil pan is partially crushed in the front gusset direction so this may be an anomoly).

Anyway, I just cleaned out yet another clump of grease grit from the corner of my eye ... and it's time to go back to work ... I'll try to get that underside photo ... but I only have 18 inches of height to get a 22 inch long (oil pan) shot and none have come out well yet.

PLEASE KEEP THE ADVICE COMING AS OTHERS BENEFIT FROM YOUR HELP TOO!

[elwesso]

The connector in your photo is for the steering solenoid.. Unless it was a sub harness for the oil pressure switch.....

You're perceptive. I really do wish I hadn't started this. Dennis was right. It's a big job. (Maybe not for Byron at T3, but certainly for an inexperienced amateur like I am). Anyway, about the only thing still keeping me going is you guys helping me out. It's wierd. I don't want to let you down (and the next poor soul with the same problem). It's kinda' sobering. All my friends are telling me to cut my losses & get rid of this sick bleeding Q ... and wierdly ... you guys are the only ones who really care to bring our beloved Q's back to life.

Believe me, you will take SO much pride in driving your beloved Q, knowing you fixed it sucessfully.. Thats why I missed (and still do) my old one so much.. Literally, my blood is on that car, and I put a lot of work into it.!!! Hang in there, and in the words of the cable guy, git r done.....

Good advice about the rack mounts, however this shouldnt have been an issue with the member coming off with the rack still attached...

[tangalora]

There was yet a third 10mm bolt to be removed.

This last one was on the driver side holding a splash-plate (or whatever) above the steering rack.

The passenger side steering rack easily dropped free of the x-member.Once I removed that fourth 10mm bolt, the x-member dropped free of the rack. So, beside the plastic hose brackets (one of which I busted), there are four 10mm bolts and four 22mm bolts mostly holding the rack to the x-member.

Whew! The sad thing is that I still can't get to one oil-pan bolt under the front engine gusset and 8 oil-pan bolts under the two rear transmission gussets. Sigh.

Peeling the onion ... now I know why the local dealership quoted me over a thousand bucks (at $120 an hour) for the job!). They deserve it!

My next task is either to remove the alternator, compressor, and front gusset ... or to tackle the rear transmission gussets. Stay tuned (your advice always welcome).

[tangalora]

Well, by the time nightfall was only an hour old, I learned how to remove:- The driver side rear engine gusset (four 17mm bolts)- The passenger side rear engine gusset (four 17mm bolts)- The flywheel cover plate (also held on by four of the rear gusset bolts)

Let me warn the next poor soul who attempts this task.That passenger-side rear engine gusset is mighty difficult to remove for two reasons.[/color

The hardest two tasks were removing the second lower bolt from the passenger side rear engine gusset and detangling that dangling passenger-side gusset from the tight space between the engine, the flywheel cover, the starter motor, and the wiring harnesses (inconveniently placed exactly in the worst possible position). I would have left the gusset dangling, but, it was just the wrong size in that I could not remove the flywheel cover plate without removing totally that passenger-side gusset from the car (and that flywheel plate was covering two of the 18 bolts of the oil pan).

As a hint to the next poor soul, I had to use all my new tools to crack those nuts, including the 18 inch breaker bar, impact u-joints, 3 inch impact extension, and, yes, I had to use the 2-inch ID leverage pipe on a 17mm box wrench (up 'till now I used only the 1-inch ID 30 inch long leverage pipe) for that one passenger-side rear engine gusset 17mm bolt that an impact socket would NOT reach (due to the wiring harness connectors). If I could have figured out how to remove those four wiring harness connectors, I would have because they REALLY got in the way on that passenger side rear engine gusset removal procedure!

Whew! For the first time in a while, I feel good about getting somewhere on this task. Quick. Someone please ask the wizard (Dennis) if he'll lend me a few credits toward that associates' degree he bespoke of many a thread ago for folks who attempt to work on their own Q.

At this point, I can see all 18 oil pan bolts!The worst bolt of all is still that one bolt under the passenger-side front corner of the oil pan - you know - the bolt hidden under the front engine gusset. Looking closely, I might be able to access that one extremely difficult bolt from the rear, sliding some kind of a wrench horizontally from the rear of the engine toward the front, in between the very tight space between the front engine gusset and the oil pan itself. There is a really good chance that even if I did get to that bolt from the side, there may not be enough room to move the wrench more than a few degrees.

Since that is the toughest bolt, I may as well start with it when I resume this task in day light.

[tangalora]

P.S. When I put all these bolts back, do I use locktite?

If so, which one?I saw in the parts store a red one and a blue one.

I asked the parts guy and he scratched his beard and muttered he'd use the red one 'cause it was "better" ... but I'd rather ask NICO.

Note: I didn't see anything in the FSM about this topic so be gentle with me if this is a really stooopid question.

[elwesso]

As hard is it is to imagine, you are now ready to start the job that you intended to... IM feel like Im doing this job vicariously through the infiniti online mechanic.. If I have to fly out there and help you get this back together, so be it... YOUR Q WILL RUN AGAIN!

I think you may have to modify a tool to get in there.. You might look into buying some gear wrenches. I have some offset ones, and they only take about 5 degrees to turn... Another thing you must consider is youll have to be able to get this back on and torque it up...

Now that the hard and evil part is over, we can relax and focus on the next hurdle to our journey.. Getting that bolt off...

You know, another thing you could do is call up T3 and ask Byron how he does it... I kinda doubt he removes all that stuff, either that or he is REALLY good