Q gods fury

[cccpman]

Q hits deer and loses power (steering and brakes), then hits steel divider. Description was too long earlier - I plan to repair the Q once again but it will take time and probably looking at 1k+ if its DIY
Modified by cccpman at 11:01 PM 8/31/2007

[AlabamaDan]

That blows man. Sorry to hear about it.

[Skibane]

Hitting a divider at 65 MPH with no seat belts - and walking away with just a broken wrist and nose - would seem to indicate that the Q gods smiled on you...

[cccpman]

well the dividers on the highway have the large barrels full of water. The deer slowed the car down, the slight turn and attempt at braking im sure also helped but it was by no means a gentle stop. couldn't sleep thinking about it - I really hope the other junkyards Q is in tact enough for me to grab what im needing (it was rear ended by a dump truck, but other Q owners have started to pick at it)

[Q45denver]

Hope you get it back together soon. I know there are several at junk yards in town. Try adopt-a-part or car-part.com.

[cccpman]

Yea im a fan of car-part.com , but really I could only find 2 G50s that contain most of the parts im going to need and they are both 1 1/2 hours away (Colorado Springs). None of the numerous yards on santa fe had G50's - but if you do spot one in a yard in your dealings please drop me a line

Feeling much better about all this now that I have had some time to calm down. USAA is helpful enough im sure I can get my credit limit raised for a month, and then pull in about 5k if I work my *** off on one of the rigs around here to pay it off without having to worry about interest. I have a pretty good list of what I need right now and I know for a fact the guys up in the springs will give a good deal for a big purchase

Radiator cracked where you normally pour in fluidfan is mostly missing, the shroud is in need of replacementUpper plenum cracked on two of the arms#1 and #3 (i think - they are the two closest to you and on the right when looking at the car, they are numbered so I should know in a couple days when its apart) lower intake manifolds need replacementBumper, hood, and side panels are pretty much done, the door can be salvaged howeverThe latch where the hood connects needs replacementheadlight needs new glass on one side, along with the running lightswindshield needs replacement (under warranty for cracks or chips - lets see if they take this )front seats need replacement as I cant get the stains out (was going to get the ones from the springs next week anyways)steering wheel is ate up (this part I might need some help on, no idea whats involved with replacing it, probably a little too much)the instrument gauge is pretty bad now, (can just replace the glass on it?)throttle body and the hoses that connect to it need replacementair intake needs replacement, along with the tube that runs to throttle body (was running the CAI box)The driver side front tire needs replacement, its under a great warranty so thats a free oneWhen I pulled the tire its clear the brake caliper, pads, and rotor are all needing replacement, possibly more problems associated so I will have to inspect the suspensionThe area right below the drivers door is really bad, its bent up, I don't think thats part of the frame so I might be able to work it evenAlso I noticed that the dash type material th at goes around the instrument cluster and transmission and such is popping out, im thinking its just the clip broken on it (easy fix)Glove box needs total replacement - I dont know how or why but its no longer attached to the carFinally, paint. It is totally jacked up everywhere, I was going to get it redone sooner or later anyways (I have an interesting idea for this - crazy even - see what happens :P)

Seems like a lot but remember all these parts will easily fit in a small trunk, and I can watch the people at the scrapyard pull it to I know where to put it

My goal when I got the car was to get a POS to get me from point A to point B but after being here my goal quickly changed to fully restore the car. It is unfortunate im going to have to get used parts but they all will be in pretty good shape before being put in. I really wanted to learn more about cars and so far I can say I have been stuffing in loads of information every day - I guess the coming days will be an awful lot more. I figure its going to be 850-1k at one junkyard and maybe 150-500 for the seats and misc from the other (I keep picking away at that other Q because it was in pretty good shape). When I first saw what happened I thought my car was done for but I keep thinking of that honda that was behind me and feeling better about how my car did - hell walking away from any accident is something to be happy about

Wish me luck, im dedicated and have enough favors to pull I can get the manpower and expertise I need when I need it (and the plethora of knowledge NICO/q45.org has to offer). It's all about keeping the head held high, confidence is more contagious then depression and gloom anyways

[goody90q45]

Q hits deer and loses power (steering and brakes), then hits steel divider. Description was too long earlier - I plan to repair the Q once again but it will take time and probably looking at 1k+ if its DIY

Really sorry to hear about the accident. You'd put so much time and $$ into her in the last couple of months. Count your blessings though, you're lucky to be alive (65mph >>>> steel barrier). The Safety Engineer in me says you should have been wearing your seat belt. We're not at work so I'll zip my lips.

If you can make that kind of money working the rig (you're wearing your safety glasses and PPE on the deck, right?) working a month have you considered taking a vacation in L.A. or SF, buying a Q and driving it home? There's lots of good deals in the $2000-$3000 range and it may be cheaper in the long run. When you get home with your new Q you've got enough parts in your current Q to sell and pay for the vacation.

BTW- I've got a few of the parts you need but it sounds like you get a good deal buying in quantity from the salvage yard. Good luck with the rebuild.

[maxnix]

The Safety Engineer in me says you should have been wearing your seat belt.

Always believed driver's test should include requirement to solve second order differential equation so driver can understand forces involved.

Love the ignorant but "caring" mothers who hold the baby in their laps in the front seat. At 44 ft./sec., kid has no chance.

[cccpman]

YES to the seatbelt comments. No to the 65-0 you should be dead comments - those barrels you see on the ramps are full of water, pretty good at slowing down whatever speeds up to them. We could break everything down in to vectors if you really want and then a nice what if scenario or two but I will leave that up to you guys

I would be interested in another G50 (one show one sport) but probably not a CA, I dont like hoses.

Im telling everyone around here the car should be back to new by the 7th, and it looks like I should have all the parts by Tuesday, with 4 or 5 others I dont think it is unreal but my actual goal is the 14th because hell, something always comes up

[konatown]

I 70% am sure that I will be parting my car/selling it soon. Drunk driver came across my lane and i spun out in a front yard, scraping the bottom of the car on concrete embankments. Broke exhaust brackets, mailbox really did a number on the passenger side front door and fender. Mirror that I just replaced is also gone. The rest of the car is in great shape.

But I'm in Indiana.

[cccpman]

thats a shame after all the work you went through, FI issues are a pretty big pain. Maybe your in a position to buy a parts car rather then turn yours into one, I wish I owned a place with a garage so I could leave one in it - really the run down Q's are going for 400 to 2k in my area (400 being one with for example a head gasket leak). You could take what you need and still part it out even afterwards and come out above what you put into it (minus time)

I don't see myself being able to part out for more then 1k or so and if its the same cost to repair, might as well repair the damn thing right? At least then I know I have an engine that has been pampered, and a car that has been cleaned from the inside out. A great transmission that went through multiple flushes just for the owners peace of mind, etc

The one thing I wish I could do but lack the knowledge to do is get the entire engine out of the car, work on it, and then put it back in

You only need a professional for the painting and bodywork (or do you? I have nothing to lose trying it myself :P . If it ends up looking like an abortion I will get it done professionally )

[AlabamaDan]

How far are you from Denver?

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/390136552.html

[AlabamaDan]

I'm not sure if this guy still has the engine, but he said it runs great just needs it out of his garage. I know it's a long way, but perhaps it's worth the shipping charge.

[AlabamaDan]

I know Dallas is a long way, but you could buy this whole thing for parts and have it shipped probably cheaper than buying part by part.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/car/395668376.html

Check out Craigs list and just buy another one for parts.

[cccpman]

beat you to that craigslist posting. Joe is a kid probably 18-20. Scrapped the Q because one of the windshields was cracked. I originally tried to get some parts off him but his 'mechanic' brother could not locate them and the offer for me to drive there and get them myself was refused. I didnt pay anything so I suppose I will call him again if I cant locate a part at the two junkyards im going to head to

It will be the same cost or a little more to get that other Q here - the fact they went to the trouble to rebuild the engine and transmission and it still does not run is something to worry about lol. Im going to try my hands at being a junkyard rat

[AlabamaDan]

You can search pullapart online for cars, not individual parts.

[CINNALOCKS]

I 70% am sure that I will be parting my car/selling it soon. Drunk driver came across my lane and i spun out in a front yard, scraping the bottom of the car on concrete embankments. Broke exhaust brackets, mailbox really did a number on the passenger side front door and fender. Mirror that I just replaced is also gone. The rest of the car is in great shape.

But I'm in Indiana.

My apologies for the drunken fool who caused your Q to suffer damage. I hope you find a way to get it together again but if you should choose not to, I am interested in knowing what color are the seats and in what shape are they in. I am in Indy, have a tan interior and my drivers side is shot.

[konatown]

Its a 1994 Green with Tan.

The driver's side seat is the only one that I wouldn't call mint. It has a few shallow scratches and a deep one.

[cccpman]

ahh progress!

After $150 in gas money for a couple individuals, 14 packs of cigarettes (everyone, its the army), and 60 bottles of beer (no cans - you cant break them) and the help from 9 individuals the car is almost complete. Most put 4-6 hours in and we had a barbecue labor day. My neighbors are about to kill me having the street blocked up but thats really too friggin bad for them . Im sure if we worked at a shop we would all be laid off because our efficiency was near 0 but she is almost there

Whats left, replacing the last lower intake manifold (#3 was a hard find!, #'s 1,2,3,4 were all actually destroyed, along with the upper). The body work - meh, I really could not find a G50 that had black paint worth anything. The panel for the rear tire was rusted just like the one I have on the other side unfortunately. The door, oh my god whoever owned this door - did they bathe the Q in acetone or something. I don't understand how its paint got so ****ed up. Also some gripes with the hood and the passengers side panel that goes along the hood - bent. Came from the same trashed Q and it looks like that owner had a low speed collision and rattle canned his car or something because the 'paint' is cracking and they both are bent up a good bit. Other then that I have a couple dents on what we saved, a lot smaller then before but we lack the ability to fine tune our efforts. This will wait for the paint preparation phase and my secret painting method that should **** up the car so badly I have a reason to get it done by an expert (or blow me/you away)

A word to the wise, if you live in Colorado, Harris used parts is the worst place to possibly go. Their prices were extreme and uncompromising, every part I asked for they brought the wrong one and had a cussing fight in front of me and aimed at me, their only customer who didn't have a stolen car. #3 lower intake.... no sir that one clearly says #4 right on the part. ' Ah shut the **** up you smart ***'. Too bad thats the only #3 lower I could find in the damn state. The upper and lower were filthy, covered in grease and oil, and a paint marker all over the upper like some parent let the child go wild with the car. Enough of that though

The seats were pretty bad before, somebody knew how to get blood out of leather and sure enough it worked so I have the old ones, and the carpet was saved too (really wanted new seats though). Thats the only 'skipped' repair that I know of right now

Tomorrow is a solo adventure, I expect maybe 4-6 hours being careful. The torque wrench I have really really worries me so we bought another and it feels even worse - 10 ft/lbs feels like an AWFUL lot of weight, im worried im going to strip the lower intake manifolds or worse break the bolts in them and then be SOL for a long time... I have no other way to measure what 10 ft/lbs is so I cant really compare... Thoughts?

A status report will come tomorrow, maybe some pictures but im fairly ashamed at her with this mis matched paint, a bend in the hood/panel, and some small dents. That may have to wait a couple weeks - but its finally coming. First time the army ever accomplished something with so much time to spare, im shocked

Q Gods , let her roll!

[96Qowner]

Sheesh, yer a maniac, cccpman. But it sounds like a great day. Congratulations on the fun and sense of accomplishment. I frankly couldn't understand why you were even going to try to restore it. Now I understand. Great fun!

[AlabamaDan]

Post some before and after pics.

[cccpman]

well it appears the air leak nightmares are back, but not as bad as before. Still sounds like a POS, and will die after a minute. Frankly im clueless as to whats causing the leak, spraying cleaner on it reveals that apparently all of the cylinders driver side are leaking at least a little (or the fans blowing the cleaner somewhere else that there is a leak). I tried two torque wrenches to 9, and then 11 lbs, no change in the status of the leak. I really fear there could be damage I couldn't see and it might require a new engine

Whatever the case I plan on getting the car flatbeded to the local $tealership, even having them take a look is prohibitive financially - having them complete the repair even more so. A leak under the plenum, im sure thats in the 2k plus range for them. Anybody else taken their car to the dealer, what sort of costs are involved in correcting this (Really, I cant find it this time I spent all day from 6AM to 1PM looking). I dont know if they would even be able to repair it, but they sure as hell would still charge me more then the cars worth without fixing it if thats the case. The guys there even admitted they knew nothing on the car, only doing oil changes and such once in a blue moon on the G50's, im really not that confident in them...

If it is indeed the case its going to be that expensive, what sort of costs am I looking at for getting a new (used) engine put in? I have seen a few for sale, but have no idea what price they went for. What sort of place would put the engine in and get her running again? Anybody in Colorado able to recommend anyone?

With the amount of work and care put into this car I refuse to just buy another one - it just wouldn't be in the same shape this one was in. At least a lower millage engine (lets say 75k?) would be in decent shape even if the previous owner was an idiot

Anybody able to throw some knowledge my way? Thanks guys

EDITok so locally I see 2 engines that are in the same salvage yard at $800 each, but car-part.com has two options on their search, I selected "front wheel steering (4.5L, VIN "N", 4th digit)" because the other looks like a touring model engine... but I do have HICAS, but its not a touring engine... what. Anyways who will install an engine and what sort of costs am I looking at for that?
Modified by cccpman at 12:42 PM 9/5/2007

[cccpman]

I cant help but toss around ideas in my head all day, here is my jerry rig of a solution

The problem seems to be the fact the gaskets are not sealing. Why?, probably because they are not being torqued down tight enough, why are they not torqued down, because the aluminum on the bolt is already contact the lower intake manifolds, IE torque further and the bolt strips or breaks off inside (bad problem, no more intake manifolds in state thanks to me). Solutions?

Well for one a taller gasket on the plenum would allow it to get a better seal (or rather, actually get a seal), but I dont know of a gasket that will fit those measurements mostly because I know jack about other cars. Perhaps buying yet another set of gaskets and stacking them would help - the problem then is they will slide slightly during use and eventually develop the same leak, furthermore im sure there are mechanical drawbacks to spacing the plenum even so slightly. So I keep looking for a solution to a compounding problem, why not use RTV to combine the gaskets? Because RTV sucks and if you read the containers it always says not recommended for intake manifold gaskets (but why? It has a high enough heat tolerance, I have a hunch its due to the fact you would have unequal sized 'gaskets' and never get a seal - but in this case that wouldnt be a problem)

I have no idea WHY the bolt makes contact before 9 ft/lbs (we are talking like 5 and its made contact, all bolts same problem)

Second possible solution Switch to generic 6x1x?? bolts. 6x1x30 im sure would be fine and almost exactly what is needed, longer or shorter its not the point either way will work. Problem here, I tried this once using an old cracked (on one side) lower manifold and my old plenum. The bolt cracked both the lower AND the plenum as it neared 10ft/lbs (talking ~7 ft/lbs). Maybe that was due to the fact the two of them were already damaged after murdering a deer im not sure, but I am betting it would happen even to the new upper/lower manifolds (note the washer size on this bolt was EXACTLY the same size as the one on the OEM bolts, it had the same surface area to distribute the force on to)

Its all very nice and high tech to have an all aluminum engine until you hit a problem like this, if the thing was iron or steel I could just say screw it and torque the sucker down

I really enjoy theoretical challenges, but when it interferes with my life I start to get just a little annoyed. I tossed around so many 'what ifs' , the altitude, the climate, the gaskets, the bolts, the manifolds, etc etc. Bouncing ideas back and forth will help preserve my sanity so im leaving this here for feedback - how can I solve the new air leak problem? Which parts of my ideas I have tossed around suck, and why?

Always a learning experience

[Q45denver]

Do you have any pics of the damage to the engine? You might try the RTV route to see if it makes a difference. I've never pulled the lower runners on a running engine. What number ones did you have to take off? You replaced the metal and rubber gaskets?

I just sold a parts engine a couple of weeks ago and have replaced some in the past. You don't want to go this route if you can avoid it and unless you can confirm the condition of the replacement engine. Best to buy a good running engine. I don't have any recommendations as the Infiniti dealer did an ok job but charged a fortune. Another I had replaced by an independent shop went out of business before they finished the job. Almost anyone with a consult should be able to do it but it always pays to find someone who has done it before. NAPA has a pretty good warranty. As long as you can take the accessories off the old engine you should be able to use any engine.

[cccpman]

No I dont have old pics, and I tossed most of the old parts but kept the plenum and a lower manifold to do my little torque testing on

I removed all of the lower and replaced all of the gaskets, and then replaced the lower 1-4 as they all showed damage either in being broken in half or a slight cracking where the rubber gasket goes. All parts were carefully cleaned and inspected. The pull was really easy, undo the fuel rail's bolts (8 of them 10 or 12mm) and then the two bolts at the bottom (12mm). Its very quick and painless compared to removing the upper. The only difficulty comes with #7 as hoses wrap around and can be a slight trouble to get off in one piece.

There is one part I was not able to reconnect and thats the EGR hose (the big metal one). Nobody I know has hands small enough to fit along the back of the engine and get it put in on the bottom. However I know for a fact that is not the cause of this massive leak because I have driven the Q just fine without it

Every gasket was bought new from the dealer and thus is OEM and fresh, the lower intakes run off of 2 crush seal metal ones, impossible to screw up

As for RTV, do you think putting it inside the dimple on the top/bottom of individual gaskets would help, im inclined to think not because the leak seems so severe and the torque values are waaay off. Perhaps the double gasket idea w/ RTV in between the two is a better option. Im going to head to the nearest dealer tomorrow and get him to order up some more gaskets (last two times he ordered the metal rings, first time he said I asked for them so I recorded the second conversation on the phone to prove him incompetent). Also, which RTV is a good choice. Im used to using the Black standard high heat RTV, I have seen some oil and gas resistant ones but they are red - I guess i could always redo the repair as its now only taking me 25 minutes to get everything off lol. If only I had air tools I could make a world speed record

Thanks for speaking up, thought people might have had enough with the constant roadblocks I have been hitting. Whats the price the $tealership ran for an engine swap if I may ask. Thanks again Q45denver

[Q45denver]

My keyboard is sticking since I spilled some coke on it.

Sounds like your on the right track. I don't think it matters as far as type of RTV. You unscrewed EGR hose from the exhaust? Wouldn't that make a lot of noise?

I think it was about $4000 at the dealer but I provided the parts and that was about 7 years ago.

Before you go that route however, you might want to look at my 1990 which I would let go for about $4000. Its a real hotrod and in excellent condition and probably has over $10,000 invested in last few years.

Some of the upgrades include:

-Replaced the engine a couple hundred miles ago with a low miles Japanese import. MAF,updated timing guides and tensioners, gaskets, plenum hoses, seals and other wear items on engine were replaced. I have a set of new injectors that go with it as well. -A/C system replaced about 10K miles ago including new Infiniti R-12 A/C system compressor and condensor.-New fuel pump, alternator, fan blade/clutch and starter-255/60-16 Pilots on new Infiniti wheels.-Upgraded suspension with Eibachs, Tokicos, rear sway bar, recent new rubber mounts, bushings, etc.-New factory driveshaft just installed.-First gear start with 8 position NICO ECU.-Auxillary gauges (transmission temp, and engine oil pressure on A pillar pod mount.-Built in Bel remote radar detector. -New factory floor mats-Factory Sony CD changer with new antenna and Bose speakers.-Recent steel braided brake lines, slotted Brembo Rotors and new pads and new (not rebuilt) ABS pump. -Stillen Strut tower stabilizer in front-Amsoil fluids-I also have a set of Nissan Skyline brakes with new Brembos pads and rebuild kit for it that I haven't installed yet.-I've had this car almost ten years and put about 40k miles on it. I think it currently has about 155k on the body. It still has most of the original paint and is metallic gold (sand) with a beautiful two tone brown interior.-Body is real straight-no door dings-Custom fit car cover-Transmission was replaced about 50k miles ago but I also have a brand new factory (not rebuilt) transmission with torque convector that I would also consider selling separately.

The bad:

-Cracked headlight-but I have a replacement (Sliverstars already installed)-Sunroof sticks sometimes.-Front of hood has some dings but covered with black bra to hide dings plus I think it looks better with the bra.-bumper has some scraps-two injectors need to be replaced, but as previously mentioned, I have a set of new injectors installed in rails ready to go. I'll try to install this weekend.-Driver seat and armrest have some minor surface cracks in the dye but no tears and the rest of the interior is excellent. I have some nice sheep skin seat covers that could go with it. Seats are not heated.

All I can think of right now but I'm sure there is more.

Should go to someone that will appreciate it and drive it.


Modified by Q45denver at 9:04 AM 9/6/2007

[cccpman]

Yes it does indeed increase the engine noise, but like I said I have heard the car without it and with it on, its clearly not the major leak in this system. I love my Q, really don't want to part it out but I need to rebuild the bank account before deciding to totally rebuild the engine. Tomorrow im going to the dealer to get some new gaskets ordered in, by the weekend at latest they should arrive. I also plan on picking up my old surgical kit, my hands cant reach but I have plenty of tools in that kit that can (and its mine, and its old - I need a new one anyways :P)

If the various different gasket attempts and bolt attempts fail, I will have to park this sucker for at least 45 days (if I take your offer, if not ~25 days) before the bank account is built up enough for me to consider an engine swap . I did find an individual with a 37k mile engine in full working order, I cant afford to ship the car but I could afford to ship the engine or just pick it up next time I am in his area

About the offer:Looks like you took your Q in the same direction im heading, too bad I didn't own her earlier

Well that is quite a tempting offer right there, actually more tempting seeing it comes from a fellow NICO member. And I did want a second Q, one for show one for hot rodding, if the tires are good and the paint/interior is decent its well worth your price...

Question on the engine miles, were talking 60-80k ish, and 'new' is 7 years ago? Any problems currently with the car that you know of? MPG issues, I saw a few for sale but they all seemed to be getting unusually low (and I mean 14ish at 65mph cruise control) ... im just looking for 16+ highway as I usually end up on a 6-8 hour drive four times a month. I know it seems insane to ask about gas millage but its a pretty big bill for me

Pics? Interior leather, driver seat/armrest. Some of those nice modifications you have maybe?

Any particular reason for selling?

I would hate to leave you without a Q, you are one of the only other owners who gives a damn in this state. Are you planning on getting a newer Q or just leaving the Q realm for something else?

Whew... you really have me considering this. Any way I can arrange for a test drive? It could take a couple of days to dig up the money but it can be done if everything checks out. You actually put a smile on my face just now - a 2nd Q45... what a dream come true that would be

[Q45denver]

I added some details to the above post. Engine was replaced for second time about a year ago but I've only driven it a few hundred miles since then. Import engines are usually claimed to have less that 50k miles. But these are likely city miles. They are usually maintained to much higher level than US cars.

The shop that did the work went out of business and failed to charge the A/C or install the new injectors like I told them to. The main problem with the car is that it has two bad injectors and will stall after it warms up. I will try to put the new ones in this weekend. You can drive it then if interested send me an email and I'll send you some pics.

I have a 1995 and some others cars so I haven't given it the attention it deserves. It gets the same mileage as the 1995. The best I got on a long trip was 25 but around town and in the winter it's more like 13. 20 MPG at 65 MPH should be no problem even with crappy Colorado gas. Both my 1995 and the 1990 have NICO ECU's with a highway setting that many help. I'm sure the wide tires don't help.

[cccpman]

Awesome - looking forward to a couple pics sometime

Like I said with all I invested recently into this car its going to be tough but I dont think impossible to dig up the money. With all those modifications and work put into the car it's crazy not to try!

[cccpman]

All right today was some real progress, we were able to plug the EGR thing back into the exhaust, helped with the sound. Later we found some gaskets that were almost the exact same as the Q45's but a little thicker, so we said what the hell and put them on... problem solved in all but one of the intakes. Started her up, nothing but some black/blue smoke and a hellish idle. Realized my old ECU is fried when I went to read codes - idle was still high at 1400. Adjusted the throttle lines or whatever you folks want to call those, im not sure what each one did but we adjusted them to where they allowed the throttle to sit with no tension. Idle still high at 800 'ish

I think this could be an IAC problem so im checking that next as the car cools down. The test revealed some super rich running after warmup, so bad the guy next to me reversed his car to get out of the cloud at the light . The car is running weak, probably related to the richness of the fuel - WOT shows no improvement over 30%, shifts are jerky as hell if done manually. NICO ECU refuses to read codes or connect to consult at all. MAF is good and connector is brand spanking new so I know its not MAF related. After a 10 minute drive some steam started to come up, im pretty sure its the water/coolant that was in the engine (as you get from KS work)

so symptoms - very low power (damn), extremely rich running, high and unstable idle. What other problems could be causing this?