Pre-purchase inspection: What to look for?

[11bfwd]

I'm helping a friend who is clueless about cars look at a few 99-03 Pathfinders and QX4's. I'm drawn to these as a good choice for him based on mostly anecdotal experience (a colleague has an '03 Pathfinder and loves it, and reports that it has been trouble free other than routine maintenance). The friend I am helping will not be off roading or abusing the truck in any way. While I know my way around an engine bay, I am completely unfamiliar with Pathfinders/QX4s other than knowing that they are pretty much the same underneath. All of the candidates have about 100K on them, give or take. Cars are at dealers as well as with private sellers, so I don't expect to have much documentation to accompany these.

I spent some time reading through the board's "reliability" sticky thread and got a lot of useful information. When looking at these trucks, what specifically should I be looking out for, other than the usual PPI type stuff?

Thanks in advance!

[Towncivilian]

Welcome to NICO!

Give this thread a read, as well as the general information thread (if you haven't yet) which is linked to in my signature.

[donald]

Also consider a high-level/generic test of the 4WD system. Being that it's a QX4 - they will all be fitted with 4WD, well, at least they are for the 01-03 models.
It is a "dial-a-wheeldrive", so no floor shifter for the transfer case.
Find a rather empty and wide parking lot, shift the dial into "4Hi" slowly edge forward to make sure the transfer case "engages". there's no real sound/feel that says the transfer case has engaged the forward axle or not, just a precaution I usually take whenever shifting between drives.
Then slowly make turn to one side WHILE the truck is ROLLING. You will need to give it a moderate bit of gas. Don't stomp on the gas pedal, just enough to make the truck go around.

What you're looking for is the front wheels to be breaking/skipping atop the asphalt. You should NOT hear noises like clacking or banging or loud/abnoxious screeching. The engine will load up, as you can imagine the engine is trying to put power to the front wheels but having a hard-time as the wheels have a lot of traction, which means 4Hi/4Lo should only be used extensively on slippery paths (muddy, loose dirt, snow, ice-if you dare, etc).

Of course you would do this turning the steering wheel the other direction as well.

There's no way (that I know of) to test the "Auto" feature on the dial. Auto implies that the sensors will detect when to engage the forward wheels, otherwise it'd be driving in RWD until the FWD is needed.


Another test I like to do, to test an Automatic Transmission is to leave the AT selector in "N" (neutral).
With out stepping on brake pedal, engage into "D".
What I'd be looking for is whether or not the truck jerks forward - jerking forward would indicate to me, something loose as far as engine mounts, tranmission mount, or possibly issues with the AT shifting into drive.
Also listen for grinding, abnormal whining or abnormal sounds.

Consider smelling the transmission fluid after you've taken a drive - or after you've done the 4WD test.
See if it smells burnt.

Check the inside/under the Oil Filler cap. Helps get an impression of how much maintenance-attention the owner gave the truck.

Go to the rear side, just under the rear passenger seats.
You should find the trailing arms.
See thread: qx4-rocking-violently-side-to-side-on-h ... 69178.html
grab each one and check if they're loose or not.

Also check the wheel-wells of each.
See thread sticky: 97-04-pathfinder-qx4-strut-housing-corr ... 34872.html
Not so important if the truck didn't encounter too much muddy terrain, or snow areas, where salts and junk can get around the underbody.
But if the truck traveled plenty to snow areas or was in the mud often, check for weak spots or rust behind the springs/wheels.

That's all I can think of right now
Good luck.

[Buzzman]

A couple of things come to mind:
The 2000 and earlier models have the smaller 3.3 engine, and would be considered underpowered by today's standard.
That engine also has a timing belt that needs replacing at 100K miles.
If you are looking at one of those, I would absolutely make sure re: the timing belt.
Also, changing the plugs on that sucker seems to be a huge PIA as well, judging by all the posts.
The 2001 was the first year of the VQ35 engine, and has about 70 more horsepower (I think).
This engine has a timing chain, and does not require replacement. It also uses ignition coils, so there is no distributor, ignition wires, etc. to worry about.
Now, after having been a member here for over 5 years, I've noticed a few trends.
One trend is that the 2001's seem to have the most problems, big or small. A lot of threads begin with: "I have a 2001 Pth/QX4, and it's doing this.....".
The 2002-3-4's seem to be more reliable, for whatever reason. (FYI, the R50 Pathfinder stopped production after the 2004 model year, while the QX4 stopped a year earlier).
In my mind, getting a good 2002-2004 model would be your best bet.
Good luck.

[donald]

Dang... buzzman, why you gotta look down on my 2001 for? :P jk

One other note... Power Valve Screws
See thread: threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics-t304263.html

So you know those butterfly valves in most throttle bodies? Well, it seems Nissan decided to use a bunch of nice loose screws on how each valve-plate attaches to the rod that holds them in place.
QX4 are automatics, so the story goes that AT models will have screws, Manual Tran. will not (not sure why)
If you hear clicking that follows RPM and/or "goes away" when driving at higher speeds, it could be the screw that fell off.
There is no Recall on this, so you will need to handle it yourself.

[Towncivilian]

2001.0 models tend to have more issues with coil packs. 2001.5 model years have revised coil packs which have less problems. Look for 09/00 or newer manufacturing date on the driver door jamb sticker.

[miamiheat3332]

Check for any wet spots under the car or around the engine, make sure all electronics work, a/c, heat, power windows, sunroof, heated seats if equipped, check brake pad wear maybe it needs brakes soon, same with tires, make sure you take it for a longer drive and shut it off, start it a couple times will make any CEL come on if its been shut off.

Check cv boots for any tears, jack the car up on each side and check front wheels for bearing or balljoint play, even something as simple as checking fluid levels will tell you even if the owner cared of topping it off for the sale or maybe its below min spec, general cleanliness of the car will show its been cared for, check fender bolts under the hood, if the paints chipped on them it may mean they were taken off and reinstalled (bodywork, or accidents) check gaps to see if their even like around headlights, hatch, bumpers etc, ask for maintainance records if they have any.

Drive it on the highway to make sure it doesnt have the "death sway", check balljoints for tears, swaybar links, etc, does it have a hitch from the p/o? Not saying it was abused intentionally but maybe someone towed with it alot and it will wear things faster, check the coils and look for any suspension sag, especially in the rear, strut boots up front if they are torn

Thats what i came up with off the top of my head, basically use any of that to your advantage to knock the price down, even if its a cheap and simple diy, be like oh well this window motor doesnt work for example and you can knock the pice down.

If you think checking all that is crazy, maybe for some people but i do it. When i bought my x5 4.8is it was from a dealer, and yeah i did look under the car, yeah i jacked up on both sides to check for bearing play etc.

[ianh]

I have a 2003 SE 4wd, and as mentioned above had very little beyond normal maintenance.

It is due for Plugs at 105K, i intend to check the throttle plate/ swirl valve screws then.

I have had the Oil cooler leak, cheap and 20mins fix, and now a transfer case input shaft leaking, not so easy to fix.

Check Carfax for reported accidents AND visually inspect, some accidents that are paid for by dealers or out of pocket DO NOT show up on CarFax.

Good luck....