QX4 rocking violently side to side on highway

[PaperChase]

Just joined the forum, looks like a great resource!

I have a 1997 QX4. 360,000 km's on it. Absolutely love the truck. No serious repairs ever done. Only got some front end work done about 7 years ago (CV boots, front shocks, alignment).

For the past few months, whenever I get on the highway and get past 100km/hour the truck starts shaking/rocking violently side to side. It stops when I let go of the gas.

My father in law who is an auto-body man thought it was the shocks. We replaced all 4 shocks but the problem still persists.

I'm just trying to figure out what the problem could be. I am fine driving the vehicle, but my wife drives it to school sometime and gets scared.

I'm thinking maybe the alignment needs to be done? I phoned some alignment places and they said it is most likely something more serious and I need to get a front end inspection done. Thing is, I don't know how much longer this truck will last, so I am weary of dropping $500+ on repairs.

Could it be something as simple as tires out of balance? I have a weird feeling that this started happening after I had the tires rotated in the summer.

Any advice or tips is greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

[Towncivilian]

Welcome to NICO.

One or more of your rear trailing arm bushings are shot. Inspect and replace as required.

[PaperChase]

Welcome to NICO.

One or more of your rear trailing arm bushings are shot. Inspect and replace as required.

Thanks so much for the quick response!

Just curious as to how you diagnosed the problem so quickly. Did you realize it was an issue in the rear since it stops rocking when I let go of the gas?

(Sorry, I'm just curious and wanted to sound knowledgeable when talking to the mechanic lol)

[Towncivilian]

It is a known problem. Nissan even has a TSB about it: PATHFINDER VEHICLE PULL AND FRONT/REAR SUSPENSION EXCESSIVE PLAY

[PaperChase]

It is a known problem. Nissan even has a TSB about it: PATHFINDER VEHICLE PULL AND FRONT/REAR SUSPENSION EXCESSIVE PLAY

WOW, thanks so much for this. I can take this with me when seeing the mechanic.

Any estimate on how much this would cost?

Thanks!!!

[Towncivilian]

I'm not sure how much it would cost. You do have two DIY options, however:

1. Purchase new bushings, remove the trailing arms yourself, and have a shop press them in for a reasonable cost. RockAuto has the uppers at $11.71 each, and lowers for $14.26 each. You'd need 4 of each.
2. Replace the trailing arms entirely. They come with new bushings attached of course. RockAuto has them for $45.79 each.

If you order anything from RockAuto, be sure to use a 5% discount code.

[PaperChase]

I'm not sure how much it would cost. You do have two DIY options, however:

1. Purchase new bushings, remove the trailing arms yourself, and have a shop press them in for a reasonable cost. RockAuto has the uppers at $11.71 each, and lowers for $14.26 each. You'd need 4 of each.
2. Replace the trailing arms entirely. They come with new bushings attached of course. RockAuto has them for $45.79 each.

If you order anything from RockAuto, be sure to use a 5% discount code.

Thank you so much for your help.

I guess I will have to take a look at each of the arms and see if they should be replaced entirely. Anything specific I should look for?

I have a feeling the mechanic will just recommend the most expensive option out of replacing the bushings or the entire arms completely.

Based on my math, looks like it will be around $100 to change the bushings, and $200 to do the arms completely. I don't mind paying the extra $100 so I won't have to deal with removing the bushings and having the new ones pressed on. I'm guessing I would just put a jack under the rear axle, remove both tires, and then each arm has two bolts to remove using a socket wrench?

I wish I did my research earlier as my father-in-law's shop had the air powered gun which is easy and fun to use.

[Towncivilian]

Grab the trailing arm and try to rock it back and forth, if there's a significant amount of play or the bushings looks deteriorated or nonexistent then that will show you which one(s) to replace.

That's the replacement procedure more or less. The bolts are probably fairly large and torqued to a high spec, so air tools would help for sure.

[PaperChase]

Grab the trailing arm and try to rock it back and forth, if there's a significant amount of play or the bushings looks deteriorated or nonexistent then that will show you which one(s) to replace.

That's the replacement procedure more or less. The bolts are probably fairly large and torqued to a high spec, so air tools would help for sure.

Ok thanks. I think this repair is above the capabilities of me and my Dad. We usually only do the brake pads.

I was concerned about taking it to the mechanic since he will no doubt find countless problems down there due to the age and wear of the vehicle. Now I can go in and just tell them to replace all the bushings and sound like I know what I am talking about lol.

Thank you very much, I will update this thread to let you know how it goes!

[Towncivilian]

Alright, I hope it goes well!

Some other things I suggest:
Skim through the general information thread. It contains a lot of useful information.
Download a PDF of your owner's manual as well as the factory service manual. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. The FSM will blow the Haynes manual away.
If you haven't yet, get your QX4 inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall.

You have ~223k miles on your QX4, so it should have had two timing belt services by now. Has it indeed had two?

The accelerator pedal probably has some slack after that many miles. Adjust the accelerator and cruise wires following the instructions on page FE-3 and page EL-168 of the factory service manual, respectively.

[zach7685]

It cost me 760 One one and 360 on the other. I got the arms with bushings at auto zone (O_o) for $60 and found a shop to put them in for 115. They also replaced the sway bar links for free.

[fueler]

do not waste your time and money replacing your weak bushings with something as weak as, or even weaker than stock.

go with polyurethane from www.4x4parts.com and tell them fueler from San Diego sent ya. You won't regret it!!

[Pathfound49]

Paperchase. Its not a difficult repair. Get the back end up on jack stands. Then get your floor jack under the rear. Use the jack to take the tension off the trailing arms. upper or lower. You and your dad can do it.

[Chuck Tribolet]

The only thing that's hard is getting the big bolts loose. The first time I did it, hand tools (including a 24" breaker bar) wouldn't budge anything. It took Ingersol-Rand's baddest 1/2" impact wrench to do three, and I had to cut the fourth (I was just doing the uppers). This was on a California car with about 150,000 miles. I don't think I took the tension off while getting the nuts off (more room when it's hanging down), but I did have to jack it up a bit to get it to go together.

While you are under there, check the bump stops (conical rubber things inside the coil springs). They can be replace by prying the spring open a bit. I used an oak 2x2.

The FSM specs replacing the bolts.

The FSM also specs having the weight on the suspension when tightening the bolts, with a half tank of gas and the spare tire in the back of the cabin (this on an '01). Jack the diff until the truck just comes off the jack stands, but leave the jack stands in place for safety. You'll probably need to jack the diff to get the sway bar together.

All of the above on an '01, but yours should be the same.

Do listen about changing out the timing belt. The nice thing about '01 and later is that the twin-cam engine uses a timing chain.

Chuck

[PaperChase]

Thanks for the responses guys!

Can I get the strut housing recall done if I don't live in a "salt" state? I am from British Columbia, Canada.

My timing belt was squeeling and loose about 2 years ago so it got replaced then.

When we were changing the shocks in the back we noticed both bump stops weren't secure. They were kind just bouncing around inside the spring. Can I just glue them back down?

I am concerned about us having to remove those big bolts without air tools. I think I will take it to the mechanic for a quote. Do you think I can save time on labor if I just get them to replace all 4 trailing arms instead of trying to replace 8 seperate bushings?

[Towncivilian]

Yes, the recall is still applicable in Canada.

I think the bump stops are secured by bolts, no?

I'm unsure about your last question, sorry.

[PaperChase]

Ok, I will phone the dealership and get the truck checked for the recall.

Yes, you are correct. The bolts were still in place, but I guess the bump stops just ripped off or something. They are still rolling around in there, is that good enough?

What I mean is, it sounds like there is alot of labor involved removing the old bushings and pressing in the new ones. I figured since the shops charge around $95/hour for labor I could save an hour or two if they just replaced the trailing arms completely which just bolt right in.

Maybe I am overthinking this? lol

[Towncivilian]

Based on this exploded parts view:



The bump stops are secured by some bolts. I don't think there are aftermarket bump stops (at least I don't see them on RockAuto) and OEM parts are $42 each. I don't know whether these are absolutely required though.

I would imagine replacement of the trailing arms entirely would be quicker and perhaps cheaper if you'd be able to DIY it.

[AZhitman]

Popping in to express amazement at how well our staff and members take care of each other... this makes me smile.

I'm so damn proud of what we've built here - TC, you're an animal!

Welcome aboard, PaperChase. Glad you found us.

Carry on!

[PaperChase]

Popping in to express amazement at how well our staff and members take care of each other... this makes me smile.

I'm so damn proud of what we've built here - TC, you're an animal!

Welcome aboard, PaperChase. Glad you found us.

Carry on!

I have to echo what you said. What a great, helpful forum!

Special thanks to Towncivilian!

I was thinking, since my rubber stops are sometimes laying sideway under the spring, do you think that would contribute to the excessive play in the back-end as well?

Maybe the mechanic can glue them back down into position or something?

[Chuck Tribolet]

You don't glue down the bump stops, you just replace them. You put the car up on stands under the frame forward of the rear wheel wells (see the FSM for the exact location) with the axle hanging down, pry the coils apart a bit (I used an oak 2x2) and you can get the stop out and in.

[donald]

Popping in to express amazement at how well our staff and members take care of each other... this makes me smile.

I'm so damn proud of what we've built here - TC, you're an animal!

Welcome aboard, PaperChase. Glad you found us.

Carry on!

+1!
... and commenting to save this in my "particpated/subscribed threads" list