Power Window Problem 98 QX4 (Front Window Rolls UP and Down-- Nothing Else works)

[bobo99121]

Hi there--

1998 Nissan Infiniti QX-4 Power Windows problem

1. Front window works fine perfectly from front switch.

All other windows are up and do not roll down from the front switch or any of their respective switches.

Replaced the main front driver side switch-- didn't fix anything.

Manually connected the rear driver window to power and ground after disconnecting it and the motor works fine went down fine and goes up fine. It even goes up using the rear switch once rolled down manually.


I believe this to be the case with all the windows. I doubt all three motors failed.


Some where I am missing a ground or power feed on the rear windows for the down circuit. Any tips? I wish I could understand the wiring diagram well enough to see where it is getting the power and ground on the down circuit and where that draws back to. Thank you!

[MisterH]

If the drivers side works fine but all others don't function (even though the motors and switches are checked as good) then it's possible you have a bad ground. The key difference here is that the drivers side is connected to different ground terminals than the other three windows. I am not sure if it is any different for 1998, , but for 1999, the drivers side connects to body grounds M4 and M66. All the other windows are connected to body grounds M77 and M111.

Here's the power window functional description from page EL 194 in the manual:

Power is supplied at all times
- from 40A fusible link (letter f, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
- to circuit breaker terminal 1
- through circuit breaker terminal 2
- to power window relay terminal 3.
With ignition switch in ON or START position, power is supplied
- through 7.5A fuse [No. 11, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
- to power window relay terminal 2, and
- to smart entrance control unit terminal 33.
Ground is supplied to power window relay terminal 1
- through body grounds M4 and M66.
The power window relay is energized and power is supplied
- through power window relay terminal 5
- to power window main switch terminal 1,
- to power window sub switch terminal 5.
MANUAL OPERATION NBEL0102S01
Front Door LH NBEL0102S0101
Ground is supplied
-- to power window main switch terminal 3
- through body grounds M77 and M111.
WINDOW UP
When the front LH switch in the power window main switch is pressed in the up position, power is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 2
- through power window main switch terminal 9.
Ground is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 1
- through power window main switch terminal 8.
Then, the motor raises the window until the switch is released.
WINDOW DOWN
When the LH switch in the power window main switch is pressed in the down position, power is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 1
- through power window main switch terminal 8.
Ground is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 2
- through power window main switch terminal 9.
Then, the motor lowers the window until the switch is released.
Front Door RH NBEL0102S0102
Ground is supplied
-to power window main switch terminal 3
- through body grounds M77 and M111.
NOTE:
Numbers in parentheses are terminal numbers, when power window switch is pressed in the UP and DOWN
positions respectively.

MAIN SWITCH OPERATION
Power is supplied
- through power window main switch (5, 6)
- to front power window sub-switch (3, 4).
The subsequent operation is the same as the sub-switch operation.

SUB-SWITCH OPERATION
Power is supplied
POWER WINDOW
System Description
- through front power window sub-switch (1, 2)
- to front power window regulator RH (2, 1).
Ground is supplied
- to front power window regulator RH (1, 2)
- through front power window sub-switch (2, 1)
- to front power window sub-switch (4, 3)
- through power window main switch (6, 5).
Then, the motor raises or lowers the window until the switch is released

[VStar650CL]

You most likely have an issue with the child lock switch. Since this is an often-asked question, I'll illustrate how the "slave" switches on your QX and most other vehicles work. The trick is that the slaves all have their own power, but they can only get ground through the "neutral" (inactive) switch throw in the Master Switch. This is what allows the master and slaves to coexist without blowing each other up if they're thrown opposite. Here's the power path in your passenger front switch with nothing happening. Notice that the blue ground is coming from the Master, not from a chassis ground:

Here's what happens when the passenger rolls the window up or down. Note that the red and blue arrows operate together, it's a single switch with two separate throws:

I don't show it here, but if the Master is worked opposite, the Neutral throw is no longer connected to ground and both sides of the motor go to power. With no ground, nothing happens. For the OP, you can see that the ground for the three other windows has to come through the child lock. If that isn't working (or you pushed it accidentally) then the other windows have no ground and won't work.

[bobo99121]

So first off I want to say a huge thanks and awesome to see a forum with some actual real knowledge and people with some helpful experience.


child look ground is working correctly I tested it and with trying both of the different master switches nothing changes. I can tell by using a headlight plugged into the terminals at the rear driver side window motor and seeing that it loses its power turns off (loses ground) when the child look button is pushed in. I have messed with that endlessly and yeah it is working ok.

But brings me to what the other poster said above. I am missing ground on the three windows in the down position where would that other body ground be? I checked the one on the front kick panel but do you have any idea where the other grounds would be for this circuit?

[bobo99121]

If the drivers side works fine but all others don't function (even though the motors and switches are checked as good) then it's possible you have a bad ground. The key difference here is that the drivers side is connected to different ground terminals than the other three windows. I am not sure if it is any different for 1998, , but for 1999, the drivers side connects to body grounds M4 and M66. All the other windows are connected to body grounds M77 and M111.

Here's the power window functional description from page EL 194 in the manual:

Power is supplied at all times
- from 40A fusible link (letter f, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
- to circuit breaker terminal 1
- through circuit breaker terminal 2
- to power window relay terminal 3.
With ignition switch in ON or START position, power is supplied
- through 7.5A fuse [No. 11, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
- to power window relay terminal 2, and
- to smart entrance control unit terminal 33.
Ground is supplied to power window relay terminal 1
- through body grounds M4 and M66.
The power window relay is energized and power is supplied
- through power window relay terminal 5
- to power window main switch terminal 1,
- to power window sub switch terminal 5.
MANUAL OPERATION NBEL0102S01
Front Door LH NBEL0102S0101
Ground is supplied
-- to power window main switch terminal 3
- through body grounds M77 and M111.
WINDOW UP
When the front LH switch in the power window main switch is pressed in the up position, power is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 2
- through power window main switch terminal 9.
Ground is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 1
- through power window main switch terminal 8.
Then, the motor raises the window until the switch is released.
WINDOW DOWN
When the LH switch in the power window main switch is pressed in the down position, power is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 1
- through power window main switch terminal 8.
Ground is supplied
- to front power window regulator LH terminal 2
- through power window main switch terminal 9.
Then, the motor lowers the window until the switch is released.
Front Door RH NBEL0102S0102
Ground is supplied
-to power window main switch terminal 3
- through body grounds M77 and M111.
NOTE:
Numbers in parentheses are terminal numbers, when power window switch is pressed in the UP and DOWN
positions respectively.

MAIN SWITCH OPERATION
Power is supplied
- through power window main switch (5, 6)
- to front power window sub-switch (3, 4).
The subsequent operation is the same as the sub-switch operation.

SUB-SWITCH OPERATION
Power is supplied
POWER WINDOW
System Description
- through front power window sub-switch (1, 2)
- to front power window regulator RH (2, 1).
Ground is supplied
- to front power window regulator RH (1, 2)
- through front power window sub-switch (2, 1)
- to front power window sub-switch (4, 3)
- through power window main switch (6, 5).
Then, the motor raises or lowers the window until the switch is released

Hey there this seems like it! do you know where those body grounds would be or a diagram of those?

[MisterH]

M coded connections mean "main" harness. Main harness layout diagram- all under dash connections. Page EL346 in my manual shows locations.

[VStar650CL]

But brings me to what the other poster said above. I am missing ground on the three windows in the down position where would that other body ground be? I checked the one on the front kick panel but do you have any idea where the other grounds would be for this circuit?

You must have missed what I said earlier, so please pay attention. THERE IS NO GROUND IN THE THREE PASSENGER DOORS. They all ground through 1) the "neutral" throw on the corresponding Master Switch and 2) then in series to the child lock. If either the neutral throw or the child lock has no contact, the window has no ground and won't work. Since the "neutral" switch throws are individual for each window, the only one which is likely to affect all three at once is the child lock.

[VStar650CL]

PS - Do you have the correct Master Switch? There are a lot of China-cheap lookalikes out there, and just because it fits in the hole doesn't mean the wiring is right. So if you bought the new one by MMY and not by the Nissan/Infiniti part number, there's a very good chance it's the wrong switch.

[bobo99121]

But brings me to what the other poster said above. I am missing ground on the three windows in the down position where would that other body ground be? I checked the one on the front kick panel but do you have any idea where the other grounds would be for this circuit?

You must have missed what I said earlier, so please pay attention. THERE IS NO GROUND IN THE THREE PASSENGER DOORS. They all ground through 1) the "neutral" throw on the corresponding Master Switch and 2) then in series to the child lock. If either the neutral throw or the child lock has no contact, the window has no ground and won't work. Since the "neutral" switch throws are individual for each window, the only one which is likely to affect all three at once is the child lock.

Well is what you are saying contradicting what the previous person said?

Just trying to understand. It is a complicated circuit for me to understand maybe I will make a youtube video tomorrow and post it and show you where i am at with it and what you think. I do think the child lock is working perfectly fine on both the new one i bought and the used one that was in there (OEM nissan). The car has not been molested or torn apart really at all except that I see evidence of someone having installed at some time an alarm or remote start that was then removed. I do not know if that is at all related. all the wires they tapped into are not directly related to the windows.

Clearly the front driver window gets it power and ground from a different source than the other 3 windows. And since I do know I have constant power at the passenger rear window on the white wire (the 12v hot with key on wire)-- and the window will ROLL UP once I roll it down manually by giving it power and ground to go down-- I am only missing the ground or the hot feed on the 3 windows. Knowing that everyone is going to keep pointing to the child lock switch as a problem is there a way I can just ground that out so that it doesn't play a roll in the others?

Here is what I am willing to say

Internals of the master switch are good-- both replacement and oem one act exactly the same. driver window works fine. no other windows work at all. Child lock switch has been moved around and nothing changes. Verified child lock button does work by hooking a headlight into the circuit as if it was the window motor and with the button switched on (killing the ground) the headlight stopped lighting up when I would hold the button up on the rear window at the passenger rear switch.

What I am missing is the ground on all three of the windows. Is there a ground that feeds all of those that is different than the main switch and the drivers side? if so, where is it?

[VStar650CL]

Follow the blue path in the diagrams. Here's the previous page for clarity, you can see the "F" off-page link goes directly to ground and there's only one ground wire. The rear windows are set up identically to the passenger front. The only ways a window can not have the blue path is if the Neutral throw in the Master is open circuit or the child lock is open circuit. There are no other possibilities.

[VStar650CL]

PS - I'd strongly suggest entering your VIN into InfinitiPartsDeal.com to get the right switch part number, then check it against what's in there. I can't tell you how many DIYers I've seen get screwed by Amazon components purchased using MMY or appearance instead of the part number.

[bobo99121]

Follow the blue path in the diagrams. Here's the previous page for clarity, you can see the "F" off-page link goes directly to ground and there's only one ground wire. The rear windows are set up identically to the passenger front. The only ways a window can not have the blue path is if the Neutral throw in the Master is open circuit or the child lock is open circuit. There are no other possibilities.


QX4 Master.jpg

So correct me if I am wrong you are saying the other poster is wrong .There is not an independent ground or power feed for all other windows besides the front driver side. And I get what you are saying but shouldn't there be an easy way to tell if the master switch is bad besides just replacing it with another one?

[bobo99121]

PS - I'd strongly suggest entering your VIN into InfinitiPartsDeal.com to get the right switch part number, then check it against what's in there. I can't tell you how many DIYers I've seen get screwed by Amazon components purchased using MMY or appearance instead of the part number.

oh and i was wrong it is a 1999 jnrar05yxxw044068

[VStar650CL]

So correct me if I am wrong you are saying the other poster is wrong .There is not an independent ground or power feed for all other windows besides the front driver side. And I get what you are saying but shouldn't there be an easy way to tell if the master switch is bad besides just replacing it with another one?

Yes, he's wrong. There are probably grounds inside the other doors for other systems like locks or mirrors, but none of them apply to the windows. The window motors can get ground only through the Master Switch. If it wasn't set up that way, the Master and Slaves could blow one another up when worked opposite. The only passenger windows which won't be set up that way are ones with Auto (those actually have a LIN which communicates to the Master and BCM), but I don't see any reference in the FSM to a passenger side Auto in '98 or '99.

oh and i was wrong it is a 1999 jnrar05yxxw044068

I don't see any functional or schematic differences in the window system between '98 and '99. There may be some changes in pin locations and wire colors (I didn't go over it exhaustively), but it looks the same and definitely works the same. Nothing jumps out.

According to your VIN, the correct switch should be a 25401-0W000 or 25401-0W010. It's out of production with Nissan/Infiniti, but there are undoubtedly clones available given the popularity of the QX4.

[bobo99121]

So correct me if I am wrong you are saying the other poster is wrong .There is not an independent ground or power feed for all other windows besides the front driver side. And I get what you are saying but shouldn't there be an easy way to tell if the master switch is bad besides just replacing it with another one?

Yes, he's wrong. There are probably grounds inside the other doors for other systems like locks or mirrors, but none of them apply to the windows. The window motors can get ground only through the Master Switch. If it wasn't set up that way, the Master and Slaves could blow one another up when worked opposite. The only passenger windows which won't be set up that way are ones with Auto (those actually have a LIN which communicates to the Master and BCM), but I don't see any reference in the FSM to a passenger side Auto in '98 or '99.

oh and i was wrong it is a 1999 jnrar05yxxw044068

I don't see any functional or schematic differences in the window system between '98 and '99. There may be some changes in pin locations and wire colors (I didn't go over it exhaustively), but it looks the same and definitely works the same. Nothing jumps out.

According to your VIN, the correct switch should be a 25401-0W000 or 25401-0W010. It's out of production with Nissan/Infiniti, but there are undoubtedly clones available given the popularity of the QX4.

Ok thanks. Also yeah so I looked on rockauto and crossed their parts. The window switch numbers for the 1998 are definitely different than then 1999 switch. So something internal to the switch must be different even though they look identical even same pins. That seem true to you too? or anything on the wiring digram that strikes you as different internally on the switches.



For the 98 and 99 ^^ differences

[VStar650CL]

And I get what you are saying but shouldn't there be an easy way to tell if the master switch is bad besides just replacing it with another one?

The easiest way to trace any ground issue is by hooking a test light gator to 12V instead of ground. Then the bulb will light when a ground is present at the tip. By probing the blue circuit from the Master to the passenger front door, it should tell you at what point ground is going away. You should get a light at both Blue/White and Blue/Yellow at the Master connector (by way of the Neutral throws and the child lock). If not, the problem is inside the switch (or it's a wrong switch).

[VStar650CL]

PS - There are three different FSM's for the '99's depending on serial number, and I'm not sure what the differences are. However, I got those p/n's by plugging your VIN into the parts database, so they should be right. Try using those numbers on the Part Number Search tab in Rock, see what it comes up with.

[bobo99121]

And I get what you are saying but shouldn't there be an easy way to tell if the master switch is bad besides just replacing it with another one?

The easiest way to trace any ground issue is by hooking a test light gator to 12V instead of ground. Then the bulb will light when a ground is present at the tip. By probing the blue circuit from the Master to the passenger front door, it should tell you at what point ground is going away. You should get a light at both Blue/White and Blue/Yellow at the Master connector (by way of the Neutral throws and the child lock). If not, the problem is inside the switch (or it's a wrong switch).

So yeah got the 99 infiniti switch off of ebay and connector plugged in but absolutely nothing works and it is definitely not the right switch so it is the switch i did purchase. Yeah I will check to see where I am losing ground, but you think if driver side window works in both directions-- that must mean that the switch has the proper grounds and power for the other windows to work if the switch was working properly. Because if not-- then the other windows could be losing a ground because the ground wire they use is different and on a different circuit but just thinking out loud.

I will try your test with the light and see what happens

[bobo99121]

PS - There are three different FSM's for the '99's depending on serial number, and I'm not sure what the differences are. However, I got those p/n's by plugging your VIN into the parts database, so they should be right. Try using those numbers on the Part Number Search tab in Rock, see what it comes up with.

what serial number? I would like to see wiring diagram for mine exactly to make sure there isn't something weird with the ground not being on the switch for the rear 3 windows (or I mean that the switch gets a ground for those three from a different source than the driver window) if you think that is not possible.

So what you're saying is this--

If driver window works up and down fine at the master switch front driver side.

The rear windows motor work manually when tested

Then the problem must be in the switch board and the switch is bad even the new one I purchased that does exactly the same thing as the other one-- that the switch must be bad. I just have trouble believing that I think we are missing something on the feed to the switch or a ground on the circuit that is just not there period. It doesn't look to me like anything has failedo n the switch no bad solder etc., and this seems like a problem where just one leg is missing that effects all the 3 windows

[VStar650CL]

I take it back, there are two FSM's, the third one shown in ASIST was a supplement. The VIN cutoff is X*060000, from X*060001 is a different FSM. So your ride uses the earlier version, which electrically appears to be identical to the '98.

That said, if you aren't willing to break out a test lamp and verify the ground path, then you aren't going to find the problem. The fact that the driver's window works means you positively do not have a global ground issue. So hook the gator to 12V, make sure it lights up to a chassis ground, then back-probe the Blue/Yellow, Blue/White, Red/Black, Green/White, White/Black, and Black/White wires at the master. Those are the six motor wires for the passenger switches, and they should all light the lamp if the master is grounding them. If none of them light (which I strongly suspect will be the case), it's 100% certain that your switch is wrong or f#cked.

[bobo99121]

I take it back, there are two FSM's, the third one shown in ASIST was a supplement. The VIN cutoff is X*060000, from X*060001 is a different FSM. So your ride uses the earlier version, which electrically appears to be identical to the '98.

That said, if you aren't willing to break out a test lamp and verify the ground path, then you aren't going to find the problem. The fact that the driver's window works means you positively do not have a global ground issue. So hook the gator to 12V, make sure it lights up to a chassis ground, then back-probe the Blue/Yellow, Blue/White, Red/Black, Green/White, White/Black, and Black/White wires at the master. Those are the six motor wires for the passenger switches, and they should all light the lamp if the master is grounding them. If none of them light (which I strongly suspect will be the case), it's 100% certain that your switch is wrong or f#cked.

I checked all of those and key on they all have ground and lightup test light. I can get them not to light up the test light by hitting the child lock switch and it removes ground. Then I switch that back and ground goes away. for all of those wires I have ground key on. When I switch the switch for that circuit up or down I forget which one excatly one way itll lose ground on that circuit. I have a feeling I am loosing power to them not ground.

So your theory is off there has to be something else wrong besides that because all those are fine. I recorded a video and will post a link to youtube

[bobo99121]

PS - There are three different FSM's for the '99's depending on serial number, and I'm not sure what the differences are. However, I got those p/n's by plugging your VIN into the parts database, so they should be right. Try using those numbers on the Part Number Search tab in Rock, see what it comes up with.

what serial number? I would like to see wiring diagram for mine exactly to make sure there isn't something weird with the ground not being on the switch for the rear 3 windows (or I mean that the switch gets a ground for those three from a different source than the driver window) if you think that is not possible.

So what you're saying is this--

If driver window works up and down fine at the master switch front driver side.

The rear windows motor work manually when tested

Then the problem must be in the switch board and the switch is bad even the new one I purchased that does exactly the same thing as the other one-- that the switch must be bad. I just have trouble believing that I think we are missing something on the feed to the switch or a ground on the circuit that is just not there period. It doesn't look to me like anything has failedo n the switch no bad solder etc., and this seems like a problem where just one leg is missing that effects all the 3 windows

[VStar650CL]

Then you'll need to check power and ground to the individual slaves, because whatever is wrong is less likely than a blue poop in a purple windstorm. If you look at the first page of the diagram on EL-186, the power window circuit breaker and relay are common to all four switches. So any problem there would affect the master as well as the slaves. However, there are splices in that circuit. So check for power at the White wire on all three of the slaves, and check for ground at:
Passenger Front - Blue/Yellow and Blue/White
Both Rear - White/Black and Black/White

[bobo99121]

OK will do-- just saying the switch isn't the problem so blue poop or not throwing switches at it wasn't going to fix it so i still need help diagnosing it thanks

[VStar650CL]

Check those wires at the slaves. Whatever the problem really is, that should point to it. Hopefully it isn't a bad splice, that can be a nightmare.

[bobo99121]

Check those wires at the slaves. Whatever the problem really is, that should point to it. Hopefully it isn't a bad splice, that can be a nightmare.

so i pulled the passenger side off and the switch works fine going up but it is missing ground when you go down. motor works fine you hear it trying to go up but yeah doesn't work in the down. It gets power but doesnt get the ground on the down which i think is true on all of them

[bobo99121]

any chance we could chat on the phone and look at the wiring diagram together? I am at a full stuck mode

[VStar650CL]

any chance we could chat on the phone and look at the wiring diagram together? I am at a full stuck mode

No, sorry, I don't do phone consults.

so i pulled the passenger side off and the switch works fine going up but it is missing ground when you go down. motor works fine you hear it trying to go up but yeah doesn't work in the down. It gets power but doesnt get the ground on the down which i think is true on all of them

That shouldn't even be possible. They all ground through the master, but they all have their own individual wires and their own individual switch at the master. For them all to have no ground only in the down position would require three identically broken wires. Back to blue poops.

Blue/Yellow is the throw which goes to ground on the passenger front in the Down position, Blue/White goes to power (from White). So you should see the following with your test lamp, tell me exactly what you don't see:

From White to Blue/Yellow:
Switch Off - LIT
Switch Down - LIT
Switch Up - UNLIT

From White to Blue/White:
Switch Off - LIT
Switch Down - UNLIT
Switch Up - LIT

If all of the above are fine then there's a problem with motor output from the switch, that's a different story.

[bobo99121]

hey so getting at it now. and ueah passenger front i have to give it ground to go down. otherwise both show "12v" but when I give it ground with a power probe it goes down fine.

[bobo99121]

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZLLf-19iqeQ?feature=share