Coolant produces white smoke when ignited in the combustion chamber and will show-up on spark plugs as hard water deposits. Start looking at your radiator or water pump's efficiency.RS12Turbo wrote:Is it possible to have a blown HG or the start of a blown HG without having oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil?Here are my symptoms........my coolant overflow bottle will be bone dry after 150 miles or so.....no puddles of coolant on the ground, although I can see a couple of drips of coolant on the block between the turbo oil feed outlet and engine mount bracket...never makes it to the ground though (weird area to see coolant). When I idle the engine with the spark plug cover off....i can smell coolant rising up in the hot engine vapors when I stick my nose down by the coil packs. Also, when I shut off the engine I can hear a gurgle from the engine too....thought it was coming from the overflow bottle, but it's coming from the engine somewhere.Engine idles perfect, no smoke, and it pulls strong as always. Plugs look normal too.I don't know if this is related, or a different issue....but when I get on it with the heater on....I can smell coolant through the air vents, and the windshield will fog up at the same time. Footwells are dry, so I doubt it's the heater core.I'm stumped......any ideas on where to start?
i'll pull the plugs again for a closer inspection.....radiator is new, and water pump was new when I put in the motor....but in anycase, it is pumping.....how would either of those explain coolant loss? If there are not any coolant passages where/ if the head gasket failed, then there wouldn't be coolant in the combustion chamber...right? IF the head gasket did indeed fail...then it's gotta be microscopicboost_boy wrote:Coolant produces white smoke when ignited in the combustin chamber and will show-up on spark plugs as hard water deposits. Start looking at your radiator or water pump's efficiency.
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HOnestly man, have you been running the car a little harder than normal (more boost) over a longer than normal sustained period? A blown headgasket will indeed swipe your coolant, but it would show and smell especially from your exhaust. Check those plugs again.RS12Turbo wrote:i'll pull the plugs again for a closer inspection.....radiator is new, and water pump was new when I put in the motor....but in anycase, it is pumping.....how would either of those explain coolant loss? If there are not any coolant passages where/ if the head gasket failed, then there wouldn't be coolant in the combustion chamber...right? IF the head gasket did indeed fail...then it's gotta be microscopic
well, as mentioned in the first post....the coolant stains I see are near the oil feed line on the block.....nothing around that area has coolant, except the head gasket above....and no coolant ever makes it to the ground...so it's not leaking much at all from that spot.....Trico05 wrote: It sounds like you have a small leak somewhere. I would start by replacing the copper crush washers on the coolant return like of the turbo and go from there.
KEY POINT! My ca18det has the exact same symptoms. The gurgling noise that i heard, imo is due to an oil leak in the valve cover. Through research i have found substantial evidence supporting the leakage of the rear valve cover(s). My ca would go through a tremendous amount of coolant, i ended up taking out the thermostat and still the coolant seemed to disappear. I never had an evidence of a blown head gasket in my exhaust ether. What ultimately pursuaded me that the culprit was a HG issue was the oil i found floating in my coolant. Go figure =PRS12Turbo wrote:...Also, when I shut off the engine I can hear a gurgle from the engine too....thought it was coming from the overflow bottle, but it's coming from the engine somewhere...
Pull the head with everything attached to and put it back in the same fashion or you will regret it. I just did it to a customer's car who brought the car to me for a standalone install and when I was done installing it, I realized that I was able to turn his crank pulley with my bare hands= No compression. He had a badly blown headgasket and his simple standalone install turned into a costly one, but he wanted it done right, so he paid me to do. Unfortunately, he say he doesn't have any more money for upgraded injectors and turbo, so I had to deal with the stock turbo and an SSAuto manifold, so I pulled the head as a complete unit by myself and put it back as a complete unit. Car runs just fine with excellent compression and a crappy stock turbo.RS12Turbo wrote:Cool...good to know.How hard was it to pull the head? Did you pull the head, intake mani, and exhaust mani/ turbo as one unit?
just got mine running today, it wasnt all too bad. pull your whole harness off the head, take off the block to intake mani bracker, coolant hoses, and what not, loosen the head studs, loosen Tbelt tensioner, pult t belt off off gears. stand in engine bay and lift her up, its no too heavy, im a skinny 18 year old and i did it. i also have a top mount turbo, this made it much easier.RS12Turbo wrote:just went out and checked for white smoke. I let it idle for about 20 mins, and after about 10 mins, once the water temp was up to normal, I noticed a little white smoke.....but the weird thing was i couldn't see it outside of the tail pipe. In other words I could just see it bouncing around inside the muffler tip, and it seem'd to disappear before it exited. It did this the whole time I had it idling, after the warm-up. The exhaust didn't smell like sweet coolant either...although when I popped the hood, it reeked of that sweet smell. No leaks as usual
Cool...thanks for the tips....took your hood off too, I would think? Never thought about standing in the engine bay to lift.....I may try that. I had thought about mounting a pulley above the engine on one of the garage ceiling rafter, and pulling it up that way.Ohh, and a custom top mounty header will be going back inKEMP wrote:just got mine running today, it wasnt all too bad. pull your whole harness off the head, take off the block to intake mani bracker, coolant hoses, and what not, loosen the head studs, loosen Tbelt tensioner, pult t belt off off gears. stand in engine bay and lift her up, its no too heavy, im a skinny 18 year old and i did it. i also have a top mount turbo, this made it much easier.
I purchased ARP studs because i wanted to ensure that they would hold. Though i am not re-using them, i still don't disagree doing so. Float knowsRS12Turbo wrote:did you guys replace the head bolts with new ones...or just re-use the originals?
Unless you don't care, get a hint! Your car cannot speak to you but it can do a damn good job on letting you know that something is not right. I would not ignore that sort of problem, even if my car still ran after four years of deceitful abuse.r34 gtr wrote:Hey Keith, my car has done that same gurgling, sucking the radiator overflow dry thing for the last 4 years. It has had several head gaskets in that time, and all kinds of internal work done in several installments over the years. I just ignore it. Has not broken down on me in forever! Though it does leak oil, run like crap, and suck down gas.