240sx/CA18DET-Daily Driver/FUN build thread (Please come and critique me!)

[chalander3443]

Along with the list of my current build I am creating this post to gain further insight amongst which turbo to choose from for my CA18DET build. At this point in time i am waiting for parts and better weather so that i can begin pulling the engine from my 240sx to redo a worn clutch and head gasket. I am inexperienced with low end engine work such as the pistons, and crank. So unless suggested other wise, i will not bother balancing the crank, upgrading the pistons or rings, etc. The motor has an est. 45k on it at the moment. I am aiming for a comfortable 18-22 lbs of boost. In regards to my desired power band i would like it stay fairly low, kicking in no later than 3-3.5k. This will be a daily driver and seldomly "abused. " (i baby my car as it is now and cringe to push rpms up to 8k). In my opinion, daily driver=reliability . Comments in regards to which turbo i should buy along with what else to consider to increase the reliability/performance while not putting a whole in my pocket, are welcomed and greatly appreciated. If i may have left out any infomation needed to better suit your opinion please let me know, i will be checking this thread religiously.

My current "engine" modifications are:***555cc Injectors***Full 3 inch exhaust w/ 3 inch resonator***Stock engine internals***Aftermarket headers (bottom mount) ***2.5 inch intercooler piping via a FMIC***Mine’s ECU***Aftermarket intake (working on the cold air piping)***HKS SSQ BOV***Stock turbo w/ manual boost controller***z32 MAF

Parts on there way:***stage 2+ 6 puck spec clutch kit which i ordered locally on the forum

Parts debating on:***oem gasket kit such as -http://www.frsport.com/Genuine-Nissan-O ... ml***Tomei gommet head gasket found at -http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Tomei-M ... mmet-11676

I am ordering by ordering both the oem gasket kit and the tomei head gasket, my plans are to use the tomei in place of the new oem head gasket. I am doing this because to my knowledge, the oem one will not handle the stress while the tomei will. If there is any other "cheaper" way around purchasing reliable gaskets please feel free to share information, links, and refferences. I am standing by with open ears.

(Considering that this is my first "project" that i have done. I will be uploading illustrated pictures as progress moves forward.)

[meminto]

Hi and welcome to the world of modification, I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labour..

A couple of things to be wary of:

18-22 lbs of boost on an essentially stock motor is excessive if you are considering reliabilty issues, the stock turbo is well out of its efficiency range before those numbers....

As a suggestion, use boost efficiently, tune the car based on information provided on the dyno, rather than picking the number, you could choose a turbo that also allows the other mods you have to be used efficiently..

Unless you are considering preparing the head and block (machining) for the metal headgasket, stick to the oem style...

A metal headgasket requires a specific finish on both surfaces to seal 100% completely, failing to do so will cost you headaches and dollars..

As far as reliability is concerned, regular maintenance with good quality fluids is one of the best things you can do...

Hope this helps..

[MeanGreenS13]

GT28RS Disco Potato would work good on this setup i feel... ARP head studs would be nice as well if your going TOMEI head gasket, make sure you machine the head and the block nicely if your going MLS headgasket.

[chalander3443]

In regards to the supportive comments left by both meminto and MeanGreenS13...

"A metal headgasket requires a specific finish on both surfaces to seal 100% completely, failing to do so will cost you headaches and dollars.." -meminto***I will be machining both the block and head at my local school. That is one of the soul purposes for my pulling my engine out when doing the head job "the right way."

"As a suggestion, use boost efficiently, tune the car based on information provided on the dyno, rather than picking the number, you could choose a turbo that also allows the other mods you have to be used efficiently.." -meminto***I agree, i have seen CA18's pushing over 450 hp with out breaking 20lbs. this is done in regards to what you have mentioned, proper tuning, via retarding of timing, and proper dyno/computer tune. I will have it no other way than to have my engine tuned professionally on a dyno once i am finished with my intended build.

***Fact, ARP > OEM studs. But in proven in my research, they are not necessary. As it can be seen here, http://www.norrisdesigns.com/demo-s13.asp, Norris Design has mod'd their CA18DET w/stock OEM head studs. With that said, OEM studs that are capable of maintaining a secure clamp on such "power" in my opinion, should handle my build quite easily. (given that i take the appropriate steps towards assembling the head to the block) But if this is a misled inference of mine please correct me.

"As far as reliability is concerned, regular maintenance with good quality fluids is one of the best things you can do..." -meminto***Amen to that (forgive me those of you who may be religiously offended)

"Hi and welcome to the world of modification, I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labour.." -meminto***Thank you very much, i would like to stress that all constructive criticism is much appreciated. To the best of my ability, i will be responding to all comments regarding my questions, progress, etc.

Current Build status: In queue due to weather

[float_6969]

It sounds like you've got everything else in order, although I don't think that the TOMEI HG is necessary. If you've already bought it and are comfortable with doing the appropriate block and head surfacing, then it certainly can't do any harm.

What are your horsepower goals? if you're looking for 260-300whp, the S15 T28 on the stock manifold is a great setup. It spools up pretty fast (2600-2800rpm) and has good transient response. If you want it to perform even better, you could have the stock manifold and turbine housing extrude honed and probably get it spooling by 2200-2400 rpm. This will also help out the top end as well.

[rovert]

Is the stock, cast manifold better than an aftermarket, tubular one?

[chalander3443]

It sounds like you've got everything else in order, although I don't think that the TOMEI HG is necessary. If you've already bought it and are comfortable with doing the appropriate block and head surfacing, then it certainly can't do any harm.

What are your horsepower goals? if you're looking for 260-300whp, the S15 T28 on the stock manifold is a great setup. It spools up pretty fast (2600-2800rpm) and has good transient response. If you want it to perform even better, you could have the stock manifold and turbine housing extrude honed and probably get it spooling by 2200-2400 rpm. This will also help out the top end as well.

"It sounds like you've got everything else in order..." +1 to self-confidence

My goal for bwhp is anything +300. The only limit that i have is in the stress that my clutch will be able to endure. As i have mentioned prior, i will be using a stage 2+ spec clutch kit; with its maximum toque rating at 330 i will be limiting the engine's output to 300 torque, keeping reliability in mind...

The Tomei head gasket has NOT be purchased yet, do you think that it is a bit over kill? If so, would the OEM one be sufficient enough with stand the power and abuse that i would throw at it (given that i machine the head and block)? Referring to quality and price, is there a head gasket in between both of these that would better suit me?

So let me get this straight, you are saying that along with an upgrade to the stock s15 sr turbo, i should install my stock CA18 manifold for quicker boost response and high end boost capabilities? What is the "model/name" for this s15 turbo? I will be aiming my research towards it once i know what model "model/name" to look up.

Last but not least what does "Extrude" and "honed" mean when you used it in the sentence, "...you could have the stock manifold and turbine housing extrude honed..."

-Thanks float

P.S. These along with all of my other questions are open ended. The more feedback i get from different people, the better.

[progman]

s15 turbo:

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-....html

That's probably the best price you will find anywhere.

The stock exhaust manifold is a good design and it will help spool the turbo faster compared to the XS power manifold found on ebay. Extrude honing is when you pump liquid sand paper through a pipe to clean or bore it out.

[float_6969]

I got my last S15 turbo from them and it was at a very fair price, fast shipping, and great communication.

You can get more info about the extrude hone process HERE and HERE.

I do think the Tomei is overkill for 300hp, although that turbo will be at it's limit to do 300whp. I honestly think that once you have that turbo installed, and see the amount of power it makes, you'll be happy with it.

[chalander3443]

"The stock exhaust manifold is a good design and it will help spool the turbo faster compared to the XS power manifold found on ebay..." -Progman

Currently, i am using the Xo2 Exhaust Manifold (bottom mount t25 bracket). How does this rate to the stock exhaust manifold? <, =, >? I believe that it came with a port and polish

Xo2 manifold can be seen here, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...A1318

Also, please do not let your opinion be effected simply because it is a cheap price/no name brand. I am more interested in its performance, hence "Don't just a book by its cover."

[koukicody]

If you want it to perform even better, you could have the stock manifold and turbine housing extrude honed and probably get it spooling by 2200-2400 rpm. This will also help out the top end as well.

exactly what i was gonna recommend! ive seen, both in person and on here, way too many of those ebay manifolds crack, and even some that werent de-burred properly have a metal booger come off and toast a turbo. definitley dont want that to happen on you car.

check out codyace's build. its a SR, but he does have the stock ex. manifold extrude honed and is pushing a VERY healthy 400whp

zerothread?id=213470

[chalander3443]

I got my last S15 turbo from them and it was at a very fair price, fast shipping, and great communication.

You can get more info about the extrude hone process HERE and HERE.

I do think the Tomei is overkill for 300hp, although that turbo will be at it's limit to do 300whp. I honestly think that once you have that turbo installed, and see the amount of power it makes, you'll be happy with it.

I suppose i will look for a copper head gasket to replace the intended Tomei HG then. Thank you for the advise.

The s15 turbo sounds ideal. It has great boost response along with high power output, and i agree with you that i would be satisfied with the turbo's output but with the time, effort, and money that i have invested in this project already; i feel that i need a turbo with a little more power output. My ideal power limit is 300 torque. Correct me if i am wrong, but for this little engine to achieve such a number its hp will have to be in the 320-335 range. So i will need to locate a turbo with simular boost response but with slightly high power output, BUT NOT MUCH !

[chalander3443]

exactly what i was gonna recommend! ive seen, both in person and on here, way too many of those ebay manifolds crack, and even some that werent de-burred properly have a metal booger come off and toast a turbo. definitley dont want that to happen on you car.

check out codyace's build. its a SR, but he does have the stock ex. manifold extrude honed and is pushing a VERY healthy 400whp

zerothread?id=213470

WONDERFUL! I will do that right now, thanks for the advice.

[float_6969]

I wasn't clear in my post. A Felpro headgasket will hold 300HP just fine. IIRC Boostboy put 500HP on one w/o any problems.

MANY of us have done 300HP on Felpro's w/o any issues. The copper HG is more overkill than the Tomei. Plus with copper you need to have the block and head o-ringed.

The turbo you're probably after is a GT28RS with the .64 turbine housing.

[chalander3443]

So i believe that i need a new flywheel . My existing one has wear characteristics such as 3/32 inch deep grooves in it. Does this have another life in it or should i forget getting it machined and buy a new one? Will a CA18de manual oem flywheel work for my application(CA18det)? What happens to a flywheel that is machined too far? Does it reduce the pressure plate's clamping force between it and the flywheel on the clutch?

Here is a link that i found for a CA18de motor:http://www.rockauto.com/catalo...69518

Thanks

[chalander3443]

Alright guys, just a little update on my progress...

With one foot of snow on the ground i was very discourage to start my project. But now on the 2nd day into i am at a healthy resting point. I have everything disconnected from the motor/transmission except the drive line including the obvious, both the transmission and motor mounts. All i am waiting for now is to borrow my friends hoist. As it is now, my plans are to pull the engine with the transmissions attached, rather than pulling the motor with only the bell housing intact. <---Comments anyone?

I have been giving my research on the stock internals limit to max power. My research has proven that stock, with the necessary upgrades i.e. bigger injectors, FMIC, bigger turbo, bigger exhaust, etc., CA internals can withstand up to almost 400 hp. But now as time is dwindling down to the completion of my build, i would like to get others peoples opinions on the CA's potentials. It would help set my mind at ease if many of you who respond to this post would share your personal experiences with building up CA's on stock internals, including the reliability of your build too. Any information helps thank you very much

FYI i am planning on setting my rev limiter to 7.5 for the sake of reliability.

[MeanGreenS13]

we will see what the limits are on stock internals when i hit the dyno soon =) horray for the ever huge SC61!

[float_6969]

Just have your flywheel resurfaced and you'll be fine.

I always pull the motor and transmission as an assembly. Just remember to remove the shifter and transmission crossmember.

IIRC Dee (boostboy) has hit 500hp on a stock internal CA.

Unless you're planning on cams, 7.5K RPM isn't doing you a whole lot. No reason to go past 7K.

[chalander3443]

...Just remember to remove the shifter and transmission crossmember. IIRC Dee (boostboy) has hit 500hp on a stock internal CA...

Remove shifter *Check*Remove Crossmember *Uhh... *

which one, the one that holds the transmission up? or the one directly under the engine that is, for lack of knowledge, connected to the steering controls?

...I am sooooooo eager to get this motor tuned and rolling

Should i consider doing any low end engine work while i am at it? Such as replacing bearing, balancing crank, thats about all i know how to do lol. (of course i would send it in to get balanced)

[chalander3443]

Hello my fellow Nissan brothers! ! have very good news I have successfully pulled the engine out of my car. As it is now, my engine is on my garage floor. I will be doing some clean up work on in and start on the new clutch/pressure plate while i wait for my head gasket.

After pulling the ingine i did a brief inspection of the block. I am not an expert but it seems to be that the rear end of the head gasket is leaking. Once i tear into it i will know for sure though, i will keep you updated.

Current issue: 3 of my 8 flywheel bolts are stuck in my block with stripped heads So my plan is to weld larger nuts on the end of those bolts and try once again to break them loose. (I hope everything goes in my favor, because this could turn into a really big mess...

Unfortunately i do not have hands on access to a camera for this project, and if have similar reading habits as mine this thread will be EXTREMELY boring because there are no pictures, lol rolleyes But i am hoping to get a camera from a friend for the rest of the project.

Hey Float! I believe i know which "cross member" you were referring to. Thanks for the advise.

[chalander3443]

GOOD NEWS! I successfully pulled the 3 existing fly wheel bolts out. It was loads of fun, not...

I have a questions for you CA experts; Will this Gasket set fit everything on the CA18det RWD/16port; such as, the valve cover, head gasket, E.Mani., I.Mani., thermostat, etc.?

http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...563PT

[S13Silvia917]

OEM gasket set

http://phase2motorsports.store....html

[chalander3443]

i already ordered the felpro set, but if it doesn't work then i'll order the OEM set.

thanks

[float_6969]

The felpro should work fine. If it's a whole engine set, DON'T USE THE OIL PAN GASKET!!! It's cork and will leak. Trust me. Use the front and rear pan seals (they're made of rubber) and then use RTV on the sides, just like Nissan did. Otherwise, I've never heard of, nor have I personally had, any problems with Felpro gaskets.

[chalander3443]

great, thank you for the FYI on the oil pan seals.

[chalander3443]

I just got my head off, sure enough the gasket was blown. There was an oil port blown so oil leaked down the backside of my block. Also there was a coolant whole blown which resulted in a leakage into the number 2 cylinder. Now i am waiting for my ARP studs and new felpro head gasket set.

The spec 2+ clutch is installed and waiting for abuse

[chalander3443]

Just a little update...I have the motor reassembled with a new felpro head gasket, 9/10 ARP STUDs, 1/10 OEM stud, spec 2+ clutch kit. I'll post pictures later but has anyone shared the same problem as me? i couldn't get my socket in the rear intake side of the block to sinch down my arp stud. so i simply used my old OEM 10mm allen wrench one instead. So now i am running 9 ARP's and 1 OEM.... i am kind of dissapointed that my one stud wasn't used, that thing cost me an est. 11$ ! pissed...

[r34 gtr]

You'll need to rotate the cam slightly to get the socket in every orifice. Lucky for you it has that handy place with six sides on it, so you can grab it with an adjustable wrench.

[chalander3443]

Quick update, my motor is back in the vehicle and i am currently expecting a parcel with my new intake cam in it. I broke my intake cam due to improper torque sequence Oh well, live and learn right? I also have LOADS of pictures to upload once i find the cable to my camera.

[chalander3443]

ITS IN! I need to readjust the timing belt, it is a tooth off here or there... I have one question though. This is the second clutch that i have put in and i am STILL having the same problems with it engaging. i think i just need to bleed it. What do you guys think? The friction point is about a half inch in, very very short.