240sx/CA18DET-Daily Driver/FUN build thread (Please come and critique me!)
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r34 gtr
- Posts: 8909
- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 9:33 am
- Car: 98 Nissan Frontier XE 4x4
95.5 Audi URS6 Avant 5spd
03 BMW 330i ZHP 6spd
89 Nissan 240SX base CA18DET - Location: Creepin' in your crawl space
- Contact:
FN-QR
Yeah its a common problem with the s13 clutch, it biting near the top and all. Mine bit right in the middle, but now that I replaced the slave, and the rubber line with a stainless one, it bites too close to the top for me. I haven't dealt with it yet because the car is getting retired from daily driver duty this weekend. It has to be adjustable somewhere though.
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chalander3443
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:43 pm
- Car: 240sx
Re: FN-QR (r34 gtr)
Nice to know, i bled the clutch and the position is still the same but it feels like it is grabbing effortlessly. Keep me posted on what means of adjustments you use R34 GTR, thanks.
Fun little update. My car was running decent, rich, but decent. then all of a sudden it died. I pulled the spark plugs to check for a probable cause and found only a spark plug whole that was crossthreaded/siezed...YEAH I GET TO LEARN HOW TO TAP A WHOLE !
Fun little update. My car was running decent, rich, but decent. then all of a sudden it died. I pulled the spark plugs to check for a probable cause and found only a spark plug whole that was crossthreaded/siezed...YEAH I GET TO LEARN HOW TO TAP A WHOLE !
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float_6969
- Moderator
- Posts: 17366
- Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
- Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
- Contact:
A few things;
First, the top engagement is a SPEC thing. The way they build their pressure plates allows them to run very light pedal pressure, the side effect being that the friction point is near the top. It's actually a better setup and most racers will purposely setup the clutch this way. It allows for the clutch to have less total travel, which means less time, which means faster shifts. I adjusted my lower and upper clutch stops to their max, then I adjusted the clutch pedal engagement so that you have just a little play before the pedal starts to work the clutch. Once you get used to it, it's a WAY better way to do it.
Secondly, DON'T BEAT ON THE CLUTCH! Everyone I know who's gotten a SPEC and not broken it in properly complains about it not grabbing and blames it on the clutch. Then they drive my car and are amazed that it works so well. When I tell them that I actually followed the directions listed with the clutch and babied it for the first 500 miles (easy, slow shifts, and no full throttle, or runs up to redline) they seem amazed.
Lastly, if you're going to tap a sparkplug hole, the right way to do it is to pull the head off. You CAN do it with the head on though. I've done this and it works, but you HAVE to be careful. What I do is grease the crap out of the tap and have a shop vac on the hole while you're tapping it. The grease catches most of it and what little it doesn't, the shop vac does. I've done this about 3 times and never had a problem.
First, the top engagement is a SPEC thing. The way they build their pressure plates allows them to run very light pedal pressure, the side effect being that the friction point is near the top. It's actually a better setup and most racers will purposely setup the clutch this way. It allows for the clutch to have less total travel, which means less time, which means faster shifts. I adjusted my lower and upper clutch stops to their max, then I adjusted the clutch pedal engagement so that you have just a little play before the pedal starts to work the clutch. Once you get used to it, it's a WAY better way to do it.
Secondly, DON'T BEAT ON THE CLUTCH! Everyone I know who's gotten a SPEC and not broken it in properly complains about it not grabbing and blames it on the clutch. Then they drive my car and are amazed that it works so well. When I tell them that I actually followed the directions listed with the clutch and babied it for the first 500 miles (easy, slow shifts, and no full throttle, or runs up to redline) they seem amazed.
Lastly, if you're going to tap a sparkplug hole, the right way to do it is to pull the head off. You CAN do it with the head on though. I've done this and it works, but you HAVE to be careful. What I do is grease the crap out of the tap and have a shop vac on the hole while you're tapping it. The grease catches most of it and what little it doesn't, the shop vac does. I've done this about 3 times and never had a problem.
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chalander3443
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:43 pm
- Car: 240sx
Re: (float_6969)
With school and the lack of work my project has come to a screaming halt. Though i do have a game plan once i regain control of my financial status. I have decided to go with a time-sert kit rather than taping a new whole. This way i can ensure it is a reliable fix and i can avoid taking the head off
For those interested, i have the website for these wonderful kits here: http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
For those interested, i have the website for these wonderful kits here: http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html