Ok, I need help. I will start from the begining this is kind of long so bear with me. I recently did a auto to manual swap ( that is a long story in it self) I have a 93 fastback and have a 96 transmission. Completing the swap all I did not hook up was the speed sensor, but everything else was fine and running. Couple days ago I went to connect the speed sensor(by ghetto riging it) lifted the car on its side to get under. When I put the car down and went to test drive. A: it started ruff and B: it was not reading right (odometer was rising very slow?) So, went back under to diconnect it and it was still doing the same thing. Well it turned out to be that the MAF was bad so I swapped that out and she ran fine. BUT after driving for awhile and I would park and try to restart she would not! ! I would have to wait several hours before she would start again then run like normal. After those symtoms I replaced the coolant sensor, removed MSD6AL and put back stock stuff, then also replaced a part from the distributor where some wires get plugged in (not the cap). After that. . . same problems. She will turn on after awhile but then if you shut off then try to restart she will not. Someone suggested a "master fuel relay" but I don't know where its located or if there is one. Could anyone please help. I am desperate I need my baby to get to and from work and everywhere else. I would extremely appreciate any and all advise. I have been on the 240sx club for years back when it was a mailing list. Everyone here are cool cats. Thanks guys ! !
Rob
Please Help Car won't start after running!
ok you need to start by finding out which you dont have when it wont start. fuel or spark. pull a plug wire and stick a srew driver in the socket and lay it over the valve cover so the metal portion just doesnt contact the valve cover and crank the engine to see if spark jumps to cover. if all good there hook up a fuel gauge and check your for pressure.should be somewhere around 30 to 40 psionce you know which your not getting it will greatly help diagnosis.
ok that rules out the master fuel relay (which by the way is genrally located in the right kick panel). now you need to see if your injectors are firing best way to do this is to use a node light. you can get one cheap at your local autozone or kragens, i use one for a gm vehicle on nissans since they dont have one for nissan,go figure, when the car wont start plug the node into the injector connect and see if it flashes while cranking. if it doesnt then that would suggest the ecm is not receiving a signal to fire them from the cam positon sensor in the dist. if this senario is the case i would reccomend you check the wiring and connections at the dist you spoke of earlier.
I do beleive it has something to do with fuel because when it shut off on me last time it felt like there was no fuel ( I was giving it gas but it was not going) Is the master fuel relay easy to replace and also would that be something that after awhile of driving it would "heat up " then stop working? Also, when I first had this symtom( after I pluged in the speed sensor) I was driving around to test the speedometer and left it in 2nd gear and hit the gas but before it reached the redline( way before) it was cutting off (sounded like spitting fuel) So again I think it is fuel related. I have a bud (who hopefully will make it) with a tester so we can test the ohms of the injectors. The only problem is that this is intermittin and I'm not sure how long I have to run it to see the problem again. I really do appreciate all your help. I think I am getting closer to the bottom of all this and I don't need to get a ride to work in my brothers hopped up Acura LS (although it is fast and he beat me when it was auto. . . . .but now its manual. ;p
Thanks again,Rob
Thanks again,Rob
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STRIKER
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Have the same problem. Just took it to a local garage and they said it's the whole entire distributor assembly - something about an element that when gets warmed up too much will cause the engine to stall. I finally figured out it was the crank position sensor, something that does require complete replacement of the whole assembly unfortunalely. Part - $450, labor - $300.
I said **** it, I'm tired of the car dying on me. Everything else is O.K., engine runs fine otherwise. This better be the solution, will let you guys know if it is in the next few days.
I said **** it, I'm tired of the car dying on me. Everything else is O.K., engine runs fine otherwise. This better be the solution, will let you guys know if it is in the next few days.
I think I did replace that part (actually borrowed from friend) you mean the part thats right next to the motor where theres a harness with like four wires coming out. If you take that part out theres a metal disc in between. If that is the part(crank position senor) then yes I did replace it, but unfortunately had the same problem. Thanks for your suggestion Striker, keep me informed of what happens with your situation.
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STRIKER
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It may still be it Shang - I spoke with a guy at Nissan and he cofirmed that you cannot replace just that one part. I don't know why but that's what he said and was being honest about it. You may very well have changed it correctly, but for some reason if the mechanics are insisting that the entire distributor assembly MUST be replaced then it would likely be more involved than replacing a simple metal piece.
We shall know by Friday Bro! If she dies on me again then I'll be ultra pissed!!! :angryfire
We shall know by Friday Bro! If she dies on me again then I'll be ultra pissed!!! :angryfire
Thanks again Striker but I think you misunderstood me. I beleive I did replace the entire sensor. I was just sayin that there is a metal disc inside which is prob moved with those magnets your talking about. I am going to buy the cap and rotor just in case. Also I need a new battery now (very odd) cuz its losing juice. I don't know if that means anything. Oh well, again I do appreciate your guys input. I will keep checking this thread for your feedback and good luck for Friday bro.
when you checked for spark and fuel pressure earlier.was the car in its no start state? if not the checks you did were useless. you need to know what its not doing when it wont start. but if it was failing and fuel came out of the open line pretty good and spark was jumping to ground. i would say the fuel relay is fine cause it is either on or off no in between. if you had a weak fuel pump the car would die but it would start up at least for a couple seconds when you try to restart it. also if the fuel pump was weak it wouldnt be an intermitten deal it would most likely be weak constantly. i have a suspicion it is wiring related. recheck all your connections especially your engine compartment and ecm grounds. you may have a loose one ar even poor contact where they are bolted down.
Yea it was tested when it was in "no start state" I also think it may be wire related. I did have an MSD hooked up which I did remove and put back the stock stuff but I need to bolt it in good (for ground purposes) Also from the suggestion from Striker and reading that thread, maybe there is something wrong with my magnets? One quick question : if my rpm tach don't work is there a fuse for that? As a back-up plan I do have an appointment for next week Wed. with Nissan but if I can get it fixed before I will cancel. Thanks again guys
Thanks for helping me out I do apreciate your suggestions. I just put in a new battery and took her out for a spin (man do I miss it!) and she drove well. Came back to the house, turned her off..then back on and it was ok. Turned on alarm...went in...minutes later went to turn her on..........nope, nothing!?!(pulling hair out) I would like to try something this weekend to fix her but not sure what else to do. Do you know where those "magnets" are on the dist. assembly? Thanks again.
they are part of the crank angle sensor. havent looked at the link for that site that was listed in this post. so i am not sure of the specific info listed in it. typically at the dealer we just replace the whole distributor when there is a problem with it. liability type s*** company policy stuff. we are hardly allowed to rebuild much anymore besides its usually cheaper for the customer due to labor charges. this alarm you speak of is it after market?
Yup a viper and I do need to take it in to find out why it chirps twice after I arm it. Maybe that has something to do with it? So do you think its crank angle sensor? I think it has alot to do with it. Would resetting the ECU do anything? Like I said earlier I did replace that sensor off of a friends(92) and his was working. Also he gave me his ECU to try but it won't start with his???
ahh i would suggest removing the viper fom the system for awhile and see if your problem is cured. and i dont mean put it in by pass i mean completely disconnect from the cars harness. typically after market alarms dont allow the car to crank but i have seen 1 or 2 that do allow it to crank and either wouldnt let the injectors squirt or the plugs fire either or. is this the type of system that has a remote start(allows you to push a button on the key fob to start the car) if so there is a special rigging that cuts the ignition if the brake is pushed and the key is not inserted and turned in the ignition switch.
Just to add. . . I don't think its the alarm because of the symtoms it had when I was trying to give it gas and it was shutting down. Tomorrow I am taking it in to get the alarm checked. Wed. I take it to the dealer for (hopefully an hour) a diagnos. check. I 'll let you know what they came up with just in case anyone here has the same prob. Again thanks for all your help.
Boy am I PISSED !!! Took her in to check alarm and that is not related to my problem. Went to start her up to go home. . . . . . . nope. After 3+ hours of trying to start her nothing... got a ride and had to leave her there! Hopefully she is there and ok in the morning when I go to pick her up. Just had to get the off my chest.
OK THIS IS FUNNY........I JUST SPOKE WITH THEM AND HERE IS WHAT THEY SAID..."..with so many aftermarket parts on the car we have no way of checking those parts. The tech already spent 3hrs on the car and I can't afford to have him spend anymore time. We'll call you..." CAN YOU BELIEVE THS BULL$%#&!! I CALLED BACK AND SPOKE TO SOMEONE ELSE AND TOLD HIM THAT THE FIRST GUY I SPOKE TO (MANAGER) MUST THINK I'M STUPID THAT HE IS BLAMING THE AFTERMARKET PARTS ONLY. I ALSO TOLD HIM THAT YOU(STRIKER) HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND THAT YOU CHANGED THAT SENSOR AND IT WAS FINE. SO HE TOLD ME ..."..I know that NISSANS do not respone or work well once you put on aftermarket parts.." MAN AM I PISSED. SO ALL THOSE HONDAS/ACURAS WITH AFTERMARKET PARTS RUNNING AROUND ARE BETTER THAN NISSANS?!?! HA SAID THAT HE HAS TO AGREE WITH HIS BOSS AND THAT HES BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME. SO I JUST TOLD THEM TO CALL ME WHENEVER. Yeah I yelling just mad. Anyways I'm currently looking for another shop cuz I think these guys are gonna do something bad. Well I will keep checking this thread to see if anyone replys. Thanks guys for lending me your ears.