Pinging noise after a race, please help

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C-Kwik
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hmm? This shop seems a bit lame. A good shop would have done a leakdown and been able to confirm the problem to be a headgasket failure.


halnfl
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I'm not too sure I'd trust the shop that you took it to. Not to knock them or anything but did they run any tests before they pulled the head? It sound's like they heard you coming and want to bend you over by going ahead and pulling it apart because now if you back out, they'll get their tear down. Either way it goes atleast now you know what your up against. Does the shop do alot of aftermarket, or are they just a mech. shop?

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ZUL8R
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halnfl wrote:I'm not too sure I'd trust the shop that you took it to. Not to knock them or anything but did they run any tests before they pulled the head? It sound's like they heard you coming and want to bend you over by going ahead and pulling it apart because now if you back out, they'll get their tear down. Either way it goes atleast now you know what your up against. Does the shop do alot of aftermarket, or are they just a mech. shop?
No My freind owns this shop. I am sure they wouldnt try to rip me off or nothing. Well they did a Compressioon test then they added oil and did another test. One of the cylinders was low. Well, I blew a headgasket and an Exhaust gasket. The Brian Crower Springs and retainers came in today so we r gonna install them as well. This shop builds motors and makes custom kits and what not. So i am not worried.

nissanfanatic
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What exhaust manifold are you running?

By looking at your numbers, it looks like possibly the exhaust manifold you are running may possibly be restricting exhaust flow in the higher RPM which could be causing excessive heating of the exhaust valves and causing pre-ignition...

What CR is the engine, what boost pressure were you running, and what fuel were you running?

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ZUL8R
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nissanfanatic wrote:What exhaust manifold are you running?

By looking at your numbers, it looks like possibly the exhaust manifold you are running may possibly be restricting exhaust flow in the higher RPM which could be causing excessive heating of the exhaust valves and causing pre-ignition...

What CR is the engine, what boost pressure were you running, and what fuel were you running?
I am not really sure what the exhaust manifold is. Drove the car for no more than two days then its been at the shop ever since. Well here is what happened fellas. The guy i bought the car from told me that the Wastegate Actuator needs a bigger spring to hold the pressure. The boost was spikin a little. It was tuned for 18psi i believe but sometimes when i really go at it i saw 22 and 23 psi. I was running 91 octane. I never had a turboed Car before so i am not all used to this race gas thing, but i am assuming its important. So i think during the race the boost shot up and thats when i blew the gaskets. So is there any difference with the new Brian crower and Retainers i am installing?? The shop told me i might as well put em in and i did.

nissanfanatic
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Is it a log...??

Yea 18psi is definately beyond pump gas range for anything short of 8.5:1 CR.. I don't run over 15psi on pump gas on stock block..

Unless it is set up like an Evo, 22psi on 91 is definatly not the way to go.

grullan
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Is the car still running the Greddy Turbo Kit, or have any parts of the kit been upgraded? Those are some decent numers for the kit. Can you post up your dyno sheet? Is the exhaust manifold, the thing the turbo is sitting on, say Greddy on it?

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ZUL8R
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Its the T6-06 Greddy turbo. Greddy FMIC, big injectors, and 3" manifold and exhaust. Well Here is the news fellas. The shop didnt start the car when they got it. I paid $2100. They told me it was the Valves. So they took the heads off, send them to the shop and told me the problem is fixed. Three weeks later i go there. Start the car for the first time. AND ITS MAKINTHE SAME FREKIN NOISE FROM BEFORE. So now i paid $2000 for no idea what Was pist and they said they would take out the motor see what the problem is and fix it and i wouldnt pay anything. So i am like ok. Now its two weeks later and they said they have another KA motor there that is almost brand new and they wanna slap the bottom end on mine. What shall i do?? Shall i say yes or what shall i do??

kazuma
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ZUL8R wrote:Its the T6-06 Greddy turbo. Greddy FMIC, big injectors, and 3" manifold and exhaust. Well Here is the news fellas. The shop didnt start the car when they got it. I paid $2100. They told me it was the Valves. So they took the heads off, send them to the shop and told me the problem is fixed. Three weeks later i go there. Start the car for the first time. AND ITS MAKINTHE SAME FREKIN NOISE FROM BEFORE. So now i paid $2000 for no idea what Was pist and they said they would take out the motor see what the problem is and fix it and i wouldnt pay anything. So i am like ok. Now its two weeks later and they said they have another KA motor there that is almost brand new and they wanna slap the bottom end on mine. What shall i do?? Shall i say yes or what shall i do??
Didnt you say your bottom end was built or something? if you have a built bottom end dont just exchange it for a stock one. Either get them to fix it properly or tell them to give you compensation for them ****ing up.

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babowc
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ZUL8R wrote:Its the T6-06 Greddy turbo. Greddy FMIC, big injectors, and 3" manifold and exhaust. Well Here is the news fellas. The shop didnt start the car when they got it. I paid $2100. They told me it was the Valves. So they took the heads off, send them to the shop and told me the problem is fixed. Three weeks later i go there. Start the car for the first time. AND ITS MAKINTHE SAME FREKIN NOISE FROM BEFORE. So now i paid $2000 for no idea what Was pist and they said they would take out the motor see what the problem is and fix it and i wouldnt pay anything. So i am like ok. Now its two weeks later and they said they have another KA motor there that is almost brand new and they wanna slap the bottom end on mine. What shall i do?? Shall i say yes or what shall i do??
lol..what a lame *** shop.

nissanfanatic
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^Thats what happens when you replace stuff without troubleshooting first.

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Edub1
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ZUL8R wrote:Its the T6-06 Greddy turbo. Greddy FMIC, big injectors, and 3" manifold and exhaust. Well Here is the news fellas. The shop didnt start the car when they got it. I paid $2100. They told me it was the Valves. So they took the heads off, send them to the shop and told me the problem is fixed. Three weeks later i go there. Start the car for the first time. AND ITS MAKINTHE SAME FREKIN NOISE FROM BEFORE. So now i paid $2000 for no idea what Was pist and they said they would take out the motor see what the problem is and fix it and i wouldnt pay anything. So i am like ok. Now its two weeks later and they said they have another KA motor there that is almost brand new and they wanna slap the bottom end on mine. What shall i do?? Shall i say yes or what shall i do??
You say this is a friend of yours? Evidently he values your friendship at less than $2100. So, they pulled the head, did a valve job and replaced the gasket and now you are back to square 1?

First, $2100 is too much for that job. A head gasket should be no more than $900 plus the head work. Second, WTF? They mistakenly diagnose a blown head gasket??? Was there water in your oil? I would take my car to another shop and demand a refund or file in small claims court.

Seems to me like a bent rod would cause low compression on account of the reduced stroke height. There should be other ways of testing that though. Did they measure the piston height while the head was off? You could probably do this through the spark plug hole.

At any rate, that is BS. I'd cancel the check, dispute the charge, sue, slander & conjure an evil vodoo curse.


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ZUL8R
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Now it gets even worse. The guy that sold me the car lied to me. The shop took out the motor and they showed it to me. Everything on the bottom end looked stock. So obviously the guy i bought the car from was lying. So they are replacing my bottom end with another KA motor that has less than 4000 miles from the last build. So now what i am wondering is..

How much boost would be safe on stock bottom end??

Really need answers fellas. Thanks

nissanfanatic
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halnfl
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wow man **** rolls down hill quick. Sorry to hear all the bad. I've been a mechanic in various shops for about 10 years and I've never trouble shooted an engine noise without hearing it run unless it was something from a visible inspection. If you lived closer to Houston I'd give you a spare block and new crank that I have in the garage cause I feel sorry for you. If I were you I'd have them give you your money back and you'd have enough to build a new bottom end with labor for the machine work and maybe a nissan fanatic close to your area can help you reinstall your engine.

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Edub1
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Well, I have some good news for you. Contrary to popular belief, the seller of an automobile can not conceal major damages or lie to you as this seller has done. The seller commited fraud when he lied to you about those parts and you should be able to sue and recover damages.

Given the amount of money you are already out of, you might want to consult a lawyer. You might even be entitled to treble damages in which case the seller would have to pay you three times what he beat you out of.

Before doing anything, talk to a lawyer and see where you stand. Then figure out a fair settlement and talk to the seller. If he tells you to F off, sue him for everything you can.

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ZUL8R
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nissanfanatic wrote:zerothread/226410
Thanks alot bro, that was really good to hear. Well they are putting a bottom end on the car as we speak. And for the money i spent they did some work but not what i really needed i guess. in the price i paid there was BC valve springs & retainers as well as a greddy waastegate actuator and then all the gaskets. I honestly would have had my whole bottom end built for $2000 right?

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C-Kwik
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Seriously, man. I'd find a different shop. Friend or not, they sound incompetent. As I said before, a leakdown test would have shown if the valves were a problem and if the headgasket was leaking at the same time.

As for the boost spiking, I doubt the actuator is having trouble holding the wastegate closed. Boost spiking occurs when the wastegate does not open enough or is simply not big enough for the application.

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ZUL8R
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Yeah i already upgraded the wastegate actuator. Well now i picked up the car, drove it for exactly 4 miles. stopped to get something to eat, and the car didnt start after that. Waited for like 15 mins and tried again. The car started but smoke was coming out of the back and the car was idiling funny. They came the next picked up the car and i am still waiting to hear what the freakin story is.

I wish i can take the car to another shop but i gave this one $2000, and now they are fixin it for no cost and they are paying for my rental. So i dont have any money, which means no options for me but to keep dealin with this. I wish i had money though so i can take my 240 to a shop that Greg knows. AZhitman, helped me out alot so far. thanks alot brotha.

I only had my 240 for 2 days and its been at the shop since i got it. I miss that thing.

Oh by the way the car at the shop now keeps idiling at 2000rpms and wont go above that for some reason.

Need some ideas my 240 PEEPS

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Suicide.Veteran
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dang doesnt any shop use a stethoscope anymore to diagnose this crap?????

and if you get your cylinder walls rewoked or anything get the bottoms of the cylinders deburred, and go over the walls with toilet paper and ATF to get out all the little shyte between the honing valleys. I kid you not.

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chicos240
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Wow, thats one hell of a story....A lot of good lessons learned from reading it. The 2000rpm deal could be your MAF, clean it, check the wiring.

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ZUL8R
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chicos240 wrote:Wow, thats one hell of a story....A lot of good lessons learned from reading it. The 2000rpm deal could be your MAF, clean it, check the wiring.
Yeah it was the MAF. So now the car needs tuning because the Injectors are dumpin too much fuel and turning the Spark plugs black. But the motor has been put together and its been less than 50 miles. The car cant be put on the DYNO right?? I need answers quick cause they wanna tune it tommorrow. LMK guys. I really do appreciate all the responds so far.

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C-Kwik
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If everything is working now, minus the richness, then it's ready to be tuned. The richness can be dialed out when tuning.

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Edub1
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If your plugs are black they might be fouled and must be replaced. For the cost Vs grief I'd just go ahead and replace them all before tuning. You would be suprised how much trouble a thin coating of carbon can cause.

Poor_S13_Driver
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Man this thread has been hanging on for dear life....... Hope you figure your problem out...though and sorry for contributing nothing

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chicos240
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dude, replace the spark plugs before you tune it...and might as well replace your O2 sensor while you are at it. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but a faulty O2 sensor can also lead to richness.


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