Pilot short shifter---as bad as OBX?
Pilot short shifter---as bad as OBX?
Alright, I want to get a short shifter for my s14. I'd really want to go with a C's short shifter, but $280 is a lot for just a short shifter...(someone was selling one on here for $200 new in box, i was too late though!). Anyway, how much worse is a pilot short shifter than a c's short shifter, concerning build quality and actual performance and how much better is a pilot short shifter than an obx concerning build quality and performance? I want nice, notchy, positive throws that are a good deal shorter than stock. I've heard about the OBX's breaking, and I don't want that happening at an inopportune time. Is the C's THAT much better than the pilot that its worth another $170? I'd like a B&M, but I've heard some problems about those as well, especially in the installation. Any of you guys know of a place that cells the c's for under $280?ThansMarc
-
Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
-
I H8 UR DSM
- Posts: 3196
- Joined: Fri May 24, 2002 8:06 am
- Contact:
:thinker search!
there is a thread about this on page 6 of this same forum....
jesse
my response to that one:
well thats not exactly true at all.....
it is a two piece construction (which cuts the cost of the product due to the fact they make the top part universal, and only have to make the bottom part for specific applications)
use the sealant they use to install windshields, its permanent, and wont ever fall apart or loosen....i have two of them, what i do is once i get them, i pull them apart, and work them loose, then reseal them with that stuff, and they never loosen or break again, i think the sealant they use just isnt strong enough...
its not that its 'breaking' its just that it does come apart....use that sealant im recommending and youll be happy you did...the price and quality of the obx, plus the 10 thing of sealant still saves over the 1 piece ones, and gives the same results...you just gotta get passed that initial stage of thinking its broken for good, lol....thats not the case.
Jesse
__________________
there is a thread about this on page 6 of this same forum....
jesse
my response to that one:
well thats not exactly true at all.....
it is a two piece construction (which cuts the cost of the product due to the fact they make the top part universal, and only have to make the bottom part for specific applications)
use the sealant they use to install windshields, its permanent, and wont ever fall apart or loosen....i have two of them, what i do is once i get them, i pull them apart, and work them loose, then reseal them with that stuff, and they never loosen or break again, i think the sealant they use just isnt strong enough...
its not that its 'breaking' its just that it does come apart....use that sealant im recommending and youll be happy you did...the price and quality of the obx, plus the 10 thing of sealant still saves over the 1 piece ones, and gives the same results...you just gotta get passed that initial stage of thinking its broken for good, lol....thats not the case.
Jesse
__________________
I'm sort of tired of all you people yelling down our throats at not using the search function. I DID USE IT! I searched "pilot shifter", stuff came up, but not specifically concerning the quality of the PILOT SHIFTER!On another note...how do you "break apart" the shifter once you get it to use the sealant? So you're saying its just as functional as a mr. c's one?
get a B+M. you'll be glad. I just took out my PM shifter for the B+M...soooo worth it. I just wished I ahdn't bought the pilot first...****ing waste of money.
yeah, just pull real ahrd on the top part of either shifter, and they will come apart. I had to superglue mine back together when it separated while I was driving...then I installed my B+M....so much better. the actually shift knob sits lower(sifter assembly), shifts SHORTER and cleaner than the PM or stocker ever did.
in short: you get what you pay for. buy the B+M.
-chet
yeah, just pull real ahrd on the top part of either shifter, and they will come apart. I had to superglue mine back together when it separated while I was driving...then I installed my B+M....so much better. the actually shift knob sits lower(sifter assembly), shifts SHORTER and cleaner than the PM or stocker ever did.
in short: you get what you pay for. buy the B+M.
-chet
its easy as **** to install...its drops right in, includes complete instructions. it does chatter a bit(the shifter removes all the nylon bushings and **** and puts in metal peices..) but it has a great shift action, and a very "direct" feel...similar to the panoz racing school cars I drove..I like it very much. but if you dont wnat a "real" race type shifter...get a NISMO unit.
my choice, B+M. easy install, great construction, fit, finish, and feels great(its even shorter than the pilot motorsports)
-chet
my choice, B+M. easy install, great construction, fit, finish, and feels great(its even shorter than the pilot motorsports)
-chet
So it has shorter shifts and sits lower than the pilot...How much lower does the shift knob site compared to the stock unit? like 1/2" or less? I heard the chatter can be reduced by just tapping wheel weights to the shaft? I'm interested in the NISMO's, but I can't find anyone that sells them!!! Where the heck are they sold? For a good price, at that...are they less than $230??
no you cant get rid of the chatter by tapeing weights to the driveshaft. hahahaha. its GEAR noise man, like inside the transmission, it goes up through the shifter. its sits about maybe a full inch or more lower.
whoever told you taping wheel weight to the driveshaft reduces chatter is a moron, if anything it wouldmupset the driveshaft ballance( as you have NO way to see if your doing good or harm), it would probably make it worse.
maybe your tralking about the sifter shaft, which is also a bad idea, because B+M shifter is counterweighted for more precise shifting(and you can TELL!)...doing that would upset the ballance there, too.
NISMO unit is available from:http://www.jspec.com
I got my S/S clutch line from them....good guys, but the dockers strike ****ed my delivery time
-chet
whoever told you taping wheel weight to the driveshaft reduces chatter is a moron, if anything it wouldmupset the driveshaft ballance( as you have NO way to see if your doing good or harm), it would probably make it worse.
maybe your tralking about the sifter shaft, which is also a bad idea, because B+M shifter is counterweighted for more precise shifting(and you can TELL!)...doing that would upset the ballance there, too.
NISMO unit is available from:http://www.jspec.com
I got my S/S clutch line from them....good guys, but the dockers strike ****ed my delivery time
-chetHa ha. I never said the DRIVE SHAFT, and i was referring to a short SHIFTER, so I don't know why you made that connection. I meant the shifter shaft, the part right underneth the shift knob. I know its gear noise man, but think about it---the stock shifter has rubber mounting points, the B&M has metal on metal mounting points--obviously the latter is going to transmit the gear noises/vibrations much better because of the metal/metal connection. So it would make sense that putting weights on the shift shaft would help to dampen the vibration...Here's a direct quote from a post about a guy talking to a guy at B&M asking the problem...," i actually got that shifter about a month ago and was having the same problem. I also posted but no one really could exactly tell me what was up with it, so i called B&M. I had to call because im sure you came to find out also that they had no email support "for a reason".... Well anyways i called up and talked to a guy for a bit, real nice guy to my surprise. He told me the noise IS normal, and trust me i am getting the same noise as you. I asked him if there was ANY way that i could deaden the noise a little bit. He told me what he has done a few times while installing the short shifters was take some tape and some mag wheel weights and tape them around the actuall stick. He told me it wouldnt completely get rid of the noise, but lessen it. "
On another note, Jspec.com sells no nismo short shifter unit; I've found no place that does!A full inch lower sounds beautiful, I LOVE the look of a nice short (literally) shifter with a nice knob and nice leather shift boot, reminiscent of newer audi's *drool*
Thanks for the info thus far,Marc
Marc
On another note, Jspec.com sells no nismo short shifter unit; I've found no place that does!A full inch lower sounds beautiful, I LOVE the look of a nice short (literally) shifter with a nice knob and nice leather shift boot, reminiscent of newer audi's *drool*
Thanks for the info thus far,Marc
Marc
e-mail jspec, they can get it for you, if you want the NISMO. I'm going for a "street legal race car", so some gear noise isnt a big problem for me....and I still wouldnt put in the weights on the shaft because of the counterweighting problem...
although, alan at ballanced performance told me something interesting:"what your actually hearing is the old gears 'gear lash', or maybe some synchro problems, so its not a big problem, your transmission is just old...if you want to fix it, get a new one..."
so there you go...not a reliablility issue, just old trasnmission noise that the nissan shifters nylon bushings keep outa the cabin..-chet
although, alan at ballanced performance told me something interesting:"what your actually hearing is the old gears 'gear lash', or maybe some synchro problems, so its not a big problem, your transmission is just old...if you want to fix it, get a new one..."
so there you go...not a reliablility issue, just old trasnmission noise that the nissan shifters nylon bushings keep outa the cabin..-chet
the B&M unti comes as a once peice pre-assembled BAD_*** chunck of alluminum. its very easy to install, just follow the instruction manual included(it even has pictures for you non literate types hahaha)
I kinda like my gear noise now. it sounds sick, my friend scot rode in my car and was like "at first its kinda weird, but it sounds ****ing EVIL man..like bad-*** evil"
so ther ya go
good choice man, you wont regret it.-chetoh clicking noises can be forma few thigns:1. metal shift gates2. Nitrous selenoides(sp?) clicking on and off, durning shifting3. sequential shifters make this noise...
I kinda like my gear noise now. it sounds sick, my friend scot rode in my car and was like "at first its kinda weird, but it sounds ****ing EVIL man..like bad-*** evil"
so ther ya go
good choice man, you wont regret it.-chetoh clicking noises can be forma few thigns:1. metal shift gates2. Nitrous selenoides(sp?) clicking on and off, durning shifting3. sequential shifters make this noise...
awesome man, i'll claim to everyone that the noise is from my straight-cut transmission, just like the ones WRC cars used--no helical nonsense for me! LOLI was kinda hoping the noise would AT LEAST sound bad.***...sweet!Lucky for me they have pictures in the instructions, I'm more of a visual learner myself...words just butcher true meaning...
Just installed that beauty tonight...I'm so glad all of the circlips and washers etc etc were already on the B&M unit, I got it for $230 INCLUDING a nice $50 B&M shift knob! Not bad. All that I have to say is WOW. I used to be able to make circles with my shifter in any gear...I can't move the thing a cm now..such firm, short, and notchy shifts, I love it...DEFINITELy gonna take some gettin used to though...You pay for what you get. I can't imagine that OBX's feel anything like this..
yup, chalk one up for my list of mods! LOL...One thing though, it was the biggest PAIN IN THE A.SS of my life to get the two remaining screws out that held in the stock shifter...you have to shove your hands (i have skinny hands!) in between the transaxel and underneath sharp metal, in about 2" of clearance to get the 2 screws out,,, like 1/8 of a turn at a time!OUCH