pig rich s15 sr

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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lilpiton
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 8:44 pm
Car: 92 hatch

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Okay guys, so I fixed one problem and another problem is here.
I got my car to start and everything was good. the only thing is that my check engine light is on, as some of you might know I dont have the OBD port hooked up so I cant really check for codes. But I remember like 6 months back I had a problem with the coolent temp sensor and the car (when warmed up) didnt want to start. Altho it would start when I unhooked the fuel pump and then once it started i could hook it back up and ran fine. So now the same thing happened and I had to do the same thing.
So now that a had done this for about ~ 2 weeks I was driving home and the car started acting really weird, it would bug out back fine stutter and even some of the time I could of drive fine and it would loose all the power (like fuel cut off) at like 4k and them power back up at like 2k :wtf2:. it also has a very hard time to idle, does die out when stoped at a red light, smells like fuel and smokes black smoke.

I checked a different MAF and did the same thing, but I didnt try driving it with the other MAF.

I got a lil video of it ideling (sorry for the quality)


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PyR0NiAk
Posts: 3851
Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:29 pm
Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
Contact:

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2 things. Video isn't on here, and you CAN check codes.. I'll post the link in a sec.

BLAMO! fault-codes-t494878.html

Just reread your post, and it sounds like you have a spark or CAS issue...

Actually, is your fuel pump hardwired? Another thread on here, I pointed out that the fuel pumps tend to not get the voltage they need, and the guy happened to have this issue. He found a wire that was causing it to not only drop at the pump, but at the coils as well. (I have no idea how these 2 are tied together, but it definitely sounds as if they are, and if so, then when you're unplugging your fuel pump, you could be allowing more voltage to go to the coils for your initial start. This is all theory and I haven't looked into it too much, but it KIND OF makes sense.)

yoozef
Posts: 1073
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2004 8:38 am

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wouldn't hurt to clean your grounds, i just finished my swap and it had loopy idle and black smoke, best way to check is to grab a piece of wire and touch the intake mani and a bolt on your wheel well, if it clears up, clean your grounds

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lilpiton
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 8:44 pm
Car: 92 hatch

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so i changed the coolant temp sensor and it made the car run 3 times better but the check engine light comes on sometimes and them that happens it tends to stutter a lil bit and then the rpm dropes to like 300 when coming to a stop.

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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:38 pm
Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
Contact:

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knock sensor and clean your maf and throttle body

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ciscos13
Posts: 149
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 4:53 pm
Car: 89' 240sx hatch, s13 sr
Location: Phoenix, AZ

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when my car died every time i stoped... it was because my IC piping was loose.

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USMCgetsome
Posts: 2030
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:38 pm
Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
Contact:

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vacuum leak can cause this issue as well as maf death. Investigate both

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lilpiton
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 8:44 pm
Car: 92 hatch

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will be doin a boost leak test tonight and will clean my maf and throttle body

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benarovi561
Posts: 171
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:23 pm
Car: 92 black hatch

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which temp sensor did you swictch? the one that is for the ecu or the gauge? i have the same problem u got. and my coolant temp dont work... and the idle s*** is the same for me. whatsup?????

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the converted
Posts: 2767
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:14 am
Car: '99 BMW M3 6.0
'88 Toyota Celica All-Trac (somewhere in Cali)
'20 Toyota Tacoma
Location: Boston

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Have you checked the code cor the CEL? That would be the best place to start.


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