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PantherRacer
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Buncha hands all over her....These guys RULE!MMM HKS More HKS GoodiesHad a little caravan going...Yes, I was the oddball with the new S14 lol


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boznuttz
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A 240sx meet outside of Advance Auto Parts?!
Modified by boznuttz at 11:31 PM 2/25/2008

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Jookmasta
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so its driveable and tuned? grats if so. how does it feel? how much boost ya running?

last but not least, your skill at blurry pictures is "pwn'n" my eyes!

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PantherRacer
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boznuttz wrote:A 240sx meet outside of Advance Auto Parts?!

Modified by boznuttz at 11:31 PM 2/25/2008
actually, it was a caravan to get parts for my KA-T. The red one was JUST bought for $400, the silver one was brought for my other friend on saturday. The red coupe came cuz the red hatch called it.
Jookmasta wrote:so its driveable and tuned? grats if so. how does it feel? how much boost ya running?

last but not least, your skill at blurry pictures is "pwn'n" my eyes!
Nope, Turbo's just on there. putting on the drain lines, SAFC and SR injectors today. Going to be running 8lbs until I rebuild and Florida240SX The Guru of awesomeness that he be, offered to tune it for me. ( I still wish I had 5K to buy his S14...rollcage+overfenders= )

Well, I can tell you that the 240 beat a firebird, 3000GT, BMW and an accord while N/A. I'm not going to be racing around once it's boosted like I said, until I get new main & rod bearings.

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boznuttz
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Lol, ok, you had me worried there for a second!

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adrianfromthecastle
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boznuttz wrote:A 240sx meet outside of Advance Auto Parts?!

Modified by boznuttz at 11:31 PM 2/25/2008


PtR: looks good dude! you have the cleanest ride of your caravan. lol

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eazye2000
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S13 Coupe, Hatch..... S14...

All of the things that matter the most in life...

Sorry, my birthday today/tonight. Just got home..

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PantherRacer
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So, I hit some snags...Return line is too long, (goign to get a rubber hose instead of the braided)Need to take off crossmember to drop oilpain to get the return bung in there...and...an impact has sarted to roudn one of the bolts which won't budge...Don't know how to get the KA injectors out to put the SR injectors in the rail...

Basicaly, I need help ahhh man...I hate not driving...at least my Silvia badge is on the hood lol.

but yeah, I need help. I'd tow it to a shop but I dont have that kind of cashflow and I decided to do it myself.some pointers/suggestions would be appreciated greatly.

ghx407
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PantherRacer wrote:Had a little caravan going...Yes, I was the oddball with the new S14 lol
Holy crap, those parking spaces are huge.

Try a ratchet with a really long handle to loosen the front subframe, or use a normal ratchet and slip a metal pipe over the handle to lengthen it.

To remove the stock injectors from the rails you can gently tap them out from the bottom side using an 8mm socket and a hammer. Good luck!

Florida240sx
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Injectors are easy once you find the trick. Big flathead screwdriver and a small piece of wood

Florida240sx
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Where you living at? I work the next 9days in a row damn bike week

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PantherRacer
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Florida240sx wrote:Where you living at? I work the next 9days in a row damn bike week
I'm on central Florida Parkway, and the car is in a neighborhood off osceola prkwy. whooping crane run or something...I hope I'll have it set so we can get it tuned after you're done with your straight block of work, but if not I'll try not to give up and sell everything lol

midnightsociety209
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nice....

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PantherRacer
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So apparently you don't have to unbolt the crossmember to take out your oil pan...I just unbolted the pan and seeing as the transmission suppourts that are supposed to block those back bolts aren't there...(I think I need to get those) It was even easier...Don't ask why I'm inside in the middle of dropping the pan though, I just have to unscrew the pickup and wiggle the pan out.if there isn't enough clearance I'll just loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine, as per the writeup on KA-T.org. I like how a lot of their write-ups are actually on nico I love to see sites working together.

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spooled240
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hey man I see you have begun you kade-t project on your s14! The oil pan is actually not that hard to remove once you know how. Just from my personal experiences, since about half the oil pan is occupied by the crankshaft, you are gonna need a lot of vertical clearance to pull it out-you can't slide it out horizontally..too bad because that would be easy lol.

I wish I took pics but whatever I will try and explain how I did it:

First drain oil, jack car up on jackstands so you have a lot of clearance under the oil pan area. Start disconnecting various power steering cooling lines, small hard lines, the steering shaft(comes out with one bolt and should slide apart), and basically anything that will keep you from lowering the crossmember. Then stick a piece of wood between the pulley and the sway bar to keep the engine from dropping with the cross member. This should be a snug fit but if you need to, jack the engine up a few inches if the wood is too big. Make sure this piece of wood will not slide off and can support the weight without getting destroyed, I used a 4x4 short beam of wood and it worked nicely.

Unbolt the motor mounts, place the floor jack under the cross member and support it so merely touches the center of it. This is so the cross member will not drop as soon as you unbolt it. Then using an impact gun, begin unbolting the 4 large nuts that hold the cross member to the frame. Slowly lower the cross member looking for anything that you may have forgotten to undo like any of the hard lines I mentioned above.

If you did everything correctly, your crossmember should drop about 6-8 inches or just enough for you to drop the oil pan and wiggle it out of there, whatever works for you. Then proceed to unbolt the oil pan and use a flat screwdriver to gently pop it off the block. note:the oil pan uses sealer not gaskets so you have to clean the surface really well before applying new sealer to make the best seal between the oil pan and the engine. (this took me a while with a small razor blade)

Then just install everything in reverse order: oil pan>crossmember>hard lines, steering shaft, etc.>motor mounts>drop car>done.

There may be other easier ways to do this but this is the way I did it and it worked for me..hope this helps

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PantherRacer
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Yeah, I loosened the motor mounts to the end of the bolt and the 2 transmission mount bolts and jacked up the engine. I just had to drop the sway bar to get the pan out after I removed the oil pickup.Now, How I'm going to get that pickup and pan back on is another story lol.

Got to drill out a crush washer a bit to get it on the adapter I'm using. After It's in I'm going to leak-proof it with JB Weld.

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spooled240
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how did you remove the oil pickup? Did you just stick your hand in the pan and screw it out or what? I'm not sure, but it might be easier to drop the crossmember a few inches.

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PantherRacer
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There were 2 12mm bolts.It was easier just jacking up the engine. 4 bolts, move the swaybar(only the ends) and manouver out the pan.

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PantherRacer
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I think I put my oil pickup on the wrong way...the pan is off to the right and wont go back on...this is infuriating....on top of that, the gasket maker has hardened....ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh @)&^@( @ (@4y76@($ ^(*^(4850634^

Florida240sx
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Put it on the wrong way???????????

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PantherRacer
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Naw, false alarmI was just pissed off the pan wasn't going on. I had two fittings screwed together and the inside one was too long yeah.Now I can't find the right adapter so I can get the hose on there for the return line.....I might just need to grind off the lip of the pan. might've mounted the bung too high...I think this is the longest KA-T put together ever...

Florida240sx
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What do you have for your return line setup?????

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480sx
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PantherRacer wrote:Naw, false alarmI think this is the longest KA-T put together ever...
Nah i got you beat, mine went on from feb 28 07 to march 01 08. If yours only takes a few weeks consider yourself lucky!

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PantherRacer
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It's a half inch flare fitting, and the line is 16" braided steel, 1/2" to 3/8th".have adapters to connect everything right, but the bung is too high...need a dremel.

I hope to have it at the exhaust shop today so it'll be ready to tune whenever you are.

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PantherRacer
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It's muh birfday! wooooo

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spooled240
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workin on the ka-t on your b-day? sounds like me..haha

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DevilMB3017
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I started my turbo install on my 20th bday. 6 Months later it's pretty much done, haha.

Good luck Panther, I hope you get everything sorted out shorty and happy bday!

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PantherRacer
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My low pressure A/C line, more specifically the shrader valve is in my way. If the pipe bent DOWN instead of UP I would have no problem.Anyone else encounter this? any way I could move this damn thing without deleting my A/C?I'd love a pipe bender or something that'd let me twist it out of the way without venting refrigerant to the atmosphere and having the EPA chase me around the appt complex.

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spooled240
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i ran my hotpipe there but I HAD to use 2" piping it won't fit if it's any bigger because of the valve and AC pipe like you said. For added convenience, I bought two cast aluminum elbows from ATP. They are expensive but they will last forever and they give you that tight 90 degree bend that will save you a lot of trouble in tight places.

heres the link:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=PPB

Good luck man

Florida240sx
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Talking abotu your turbo outlet with elboe attahce din the way with your A/C line? Why not jsut clock your turbo so it point directly towards the drivers fender with the outlet. Like geo did with his iap kit on his s14.... or are you still talking about return oil line?


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