pictures with my valve covers off

[PalmerWMD]

AMSOIL is good oil.

I don't like the extended drain intervals they advertise, but its a good oil.

Fred...

[elwesso]

Amsoil is good... But if your gonna change the oil every 90 days why not just stick with M1, as its just about as good....

A bypass filter (I think) is a filter that is installed in the bypass valve of the main oil filter... So when the main filter gets too clogged, instead of the bypass valve activating and unfiltered oil is going to the engine, it bypasses it into a filter...

Again, useless if you change your oil every 90 days!!!!!

[SmoothCriminal]

I'm a real nitpicker when it comes to oil, nothing but Mobil 1 fluids are used on my car. Learned it from my father. I've serviced his 90 Q45 with Motul 8100 Eco-energy full synth for the past three years at two-month intervals. Just picked off some heads, valve-train, cams, plenum, hoses off a collision-damaged 91 motor. At 265k his engine looks cleaner than even some 2000 model year import motors I've taken apart. I strongly suggest taking a look at the Motul 8100 series oils, they're full synth with high oxidation, rust and corrosion inhibitors. Good detergent values and pour-point indexes too a dollar more than Mobil 1 per quart at $5.99.

[elwesso]

Well, after talking with a few other car bufs, Ive decided to just leave it alone, and continue with my 90 day oil changes..... Ill be a happy guy if the engine lasts me another 100-120k, then Ill throw in a low mileage jap take out.....

[Jeff Williams]

I use Castrol 10W-30, and Fram filters in my Q. I add about 1/2 cup of Lucas oil stabilizer, at each change. I change the oil every 3 to 4 weeks. Of course, that is still every 3,000 to 4,000 miles, roughly.

I did not put the frist 105,000 miles on the car, but I was lucky to get the car from a friend, who had regular servcie done, since he bought it with 30,000 miles on it. Before that, it was servcied at the local Inifiniti dealership, regularly.

I recently replaced the valve cover gasket on the passenger's side, and the cams looked very good. Not a drop of sludge, and very minor discoloration. There was zero signs of wear, on the lobes. Not bad for 175,000 miles.

I used a standard parts cleaner, to get the cover clean, and it was very easy.

I would like to go synthetic with all the fluids, but I don't see a real benefit in my situation. The oil dosen't stay in the car, that long, and I do 90% of my driving on the highway. I never rev the engine over 6,000 RPM, and usually stay under 3,500 RPM. Of course, I do have my occasional opportunity to set the cruise at 120, or blast past a Mustang GT, just for fun. I am human.

I am trying to get another 100K out of the transmission and engine (2 more years). Then I will find another '94 or '95, with around 100K on it, or maybe a 2003 M45, depending on the savings account balance.

[Jesda]

Change oil every 90 days or 2500-2900 miles.

THERE IS NO EXCEPTION TO THIS RULE.THERE WILL NEVER BE AN EXCEPTION TO THIS RULE.

[90Q45blue]

I would like to go synthetic with all the fluids, but I don't see a real benefit in my situation. The oil dosen't stay in the car, that long, and I do 90% of my driving on the highway. I never rev the engine over 6,000 RPM, and usually stay under 3,500 RPM. Of course, I do have my occasional opportunity to set the cruise at 120, or blast past a Mustang GT, just for fun. I am human.

I am trying to get another 100K out of the transmission and engine (2 more years). Then I will find another '94 or '95, with around 100K on it, or maybe a 2003 M45, depending on the savings account balance.

That's why your car will last you so long. The first 180,000 miles on my car were almost all highway miles.

As long as your using a good oil and do regular oil changes, you should be fine without synthetic.

[PalmerWMD]

1)I use Castrol 10W-30, and 2)Fram filters in my Q. 3)I add about 1/2 cup of Lucas oil stabilizer, at each change. I change the oil every 3 to 4 weeks.

Jeff,

1) GTX is one of the better dino oils, at this milage I would consider going up to 10w-40 but thats possibly a wash.2)Fram filters dont have a good rep among the congoscenti, some feel teh walmart filter is a better filter ( only $2.34).The SuperTech ST3600 is a good fit for our cars and slightly oversize too.Frams have <really> cheap internal contruction, anecdotes about engiens being destroyed by cheap filters abound.3) A practice I would discontinue, Adding "stabilizers " such as this one can bring your anti foaming additive to a less than neccessary concentration to work with possbile problems espcially at high speeds.Also your intervals are short enough you likely dont need the extra detergents or KOH equivalents.

Fred...

[sultan]

2)Fram filters dont have a good rep among the congoscenti, some feel teh walmart filter is a better filter ( only $2.34).The SuperTech ST3600 is a good fit for our cars and slightly oversize too.

is the ford motorcraft filter in that size better than the supertech?

[PalmerWMD]

I dont know enough about the motorcraft filter to make that call with any certainty.But if its a 100% same size+ fit as ST3600 it should work well.

Fred...

[sultan]

it does fit and work, i just don't know how good it is. i'm actually using the motorcraft filter right now.

[Jeff Williams]

Thanks, Fred. Nothing better than straight-forward advice.

Have a Happy New Year.

[PalmerWMD]

Your very welcome,

Jeff those imagestation pics are great.

Why dont you put them in our members ride section as well?

Fred...

[Jeff Williams]

Your very welcome,

Jeff those imagestation pics are great.

Why dont you put them in our members ride section as well?

Fred...

I plan to, but they are on my laptop, and it is out of servcie, at the moment. The pics are nice, but I wanted some better quality pics. I want to take some more, since I have the NICO stickers on the quarter glass, and the new Sumitomo tires. My wife's honey-do-list has been keeping me busy.

I may get it all cleaned-up this weekend. I have a new Digital camera (4.0 Megapixel Minolta). It should give me some great hi-resolution pictures.

[SmoothCriminal]

I wonder if an oil relocater kit, or possibly, a dual filter kit could be adapted for use on a Q? I've seen them on hot-rods and I'm pretty sure they're manufactured for imports too. I think one of the biggest deterents of people changing their oil more often, or at all for that matter is the difficulty in reaching the filter. This would make it much easier to install an oil cooler for real nitpickers like myself. Maybe even a dual ATF/motor oil cooler, kill two birds with one stone.

[elwesso]

I think hitman was working on a remote oil filter location..... Might ask him about that....

[Jeff Williams]

I have thought of relocating the filter, but since I put the K&N POP Charger on, I can get to the filter, easily, from the top. I just have to put a lot of paper towels under the filter, to keep my spash shield relatively clean.

[GEOFF]

JeffI would like to know more about the pop charger. Where do you get one, how much $, install easy, performance improvements, etc.Thanks

[SmoothCriminal]

The Popcharger is a cone filter intake that can be purchased from Stillen or JWT I believe. Price is steep - around $200 if I remember correctly. You could just buy a compatible K&N cone ($50) and with a few flanges from Home Depot ($10 at the most) and at the expense of making irreversible alterations to your stock air box, build something that'd work just as well.

[elwesso]

Q45tech has mentioned before that the max HP you could get from that is 3-5HP..... Pointless, IMO... You wouldnt feel it... It may be good for the standpoint of hearing more growel, but you might as well wire a microphone to the radio....

[90Q45blue]

And doesn't the car run hotter?

Nick

[elwesso]

Its not necessarily true that the car runs hotter (I wouldnt deny it), but the car sucks in hot underhood air, which in most cases will result in a power loss...

[90Q45blue]

That's right. Thanks for clearin that up.

Nick

[Jeff Williams]

Its not necessarily true that the car runs hotter (I wouldnt deny it), but the car sucks in hot underhood air, which in most cases will result in a power loss...

I think the air is only marginally hotter, since the intake point is the same, and I did not remove the front part of the plenum, htat brings in cold air, by the headlight. I think, as long as the car is moving, the temp would not be that much hotter. Although, in traffic, it would be much hotter.

As far as the cost, I bought one off if eBay, for $140.00, then bought a second one, on NICO, for $75.00 I sold the second one, for $120.00

I do have to clean mu MAF, every 2 to 3 months, and I have 2 filters, that I alternate.

I actually think the filter improves the gas mileage, more than it helps in HP. I get between 20 and 22 MPG, with a steady 78 MPH cruise. I only use Chevron 93 Octane gas, and fill up 3 times a week.

[PalmerWMD]

I have one of those cone filters from Stillen original MSRP over $200.

Be willing to give it up for $50.I thinks it missing the screws but those are pretty standard can be had anywhere for a few cents.

The heat issue is much less with the 94 and up Q's due to the presence of a grille.

I personally prefer the cleaner look of the stock box.

Fred...

[HeavyDuty]

Given the referenced hp increases, a healthy well tuned 1st gen puts down 250hp to the tires, and giving the POP the benefit of the doubt for quick calculations, a 5hp gain is a 2% increase for around $150.

I agree that if you keep your foot off the loud pedal, you'll achieve better economy.

Underhood air when moving is nominally warmer than outside ambient.

The POP charger isn't just a MAF adapter to mount a cone, it's a massive velocity stack that straightens the airs' entry into the intake tube & increases the velocity. I look at it like you're freeing up power, not creating more, but the end result is the same, I suppose.

I inherited a POP on my car, I like it & I think it will help achieve even more power gains when I receive my ecu & tcu.

[GEOFF]

I have one of those cone filters from Stillen original MSRP over $200.

Be willing to give it up for $50.I thinks it missing the screws but those are pretty standard can be had anywhere for a few cents.

Fred...

I am interested in buying that cone filter. You can e-mail me at [email protected]

Thanks

[Q45tech]

I keep reminding members to MEASURE the vacuum drop at the top of the air filter box to gauge what is possible.

Members seem to miss the exotic velocity stack inside the oem air box.

At 2000-2300 rpm cruise the engine demands are so miniscule [less than 40 CFM] that it is almost impossible to MEASURE any drop in a clean oem filter or air box.........with very very very sensitive equipment.

Now at 6,000 rpm when 380 CFM might be flowing a 4,5,6 " WC vacuum is measureable.

I was addressing the thought that a less restrictive filter might help cruise mileage............if it would improve things 0.1 MPG the factory would have jumped on it! As the penalties on the Q [gas guzzler tax] were impediments to sales.

Less than 22.5 but greater than 21.5 added a fine of $500 per Q sold since it was speced at 22.0 MPG...........they couldn't find another 0.5 MPG at 55-60 mph to save the $500!!!!!!!!!!!http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/dearmfr/cd8905.pdf

[Q45tech]

If the MAF gets dirtier faster the rings are exposed to the same dirt.......the reason engines lose compression.

Trading greatly diminished ring life for a few HP is a loser, regardless of what they promise in filtration.........dirt is dirt and it showing up on the MAF screen is a no no because maybe you are only seeeing 1-2% of what got by the screen [stuck to screen].

Those that want to keep as new power into the plus 200k range need more filtration not less.

[texasoil]

IMHO

STP engine detergent is an excellent product and repeated use of it will remove much/most/all? of that varnish and sludge. I suggest you get 3-4 bottles of it and lots of Texaco Havoline 10W40. Use the STP product according to directions only run it 50% longer that recommended. After 3-6 doses and oil changes, run a fill 1000 miles and see how it looks--use a flashlight and inspection mirror to look at the tops of the heads. DO NOT GET ON THE THROTTLE until you get the engine cleaned up. A single WOT or high RPM burst can cost you an engine.

The internal plastic parts (like chain guides) are very likely badly crazed/cracked and should be considered likely failure candidates.

Overall wear on cam lobes and shaft journals and bearings will be higher than 'normal', but not necessarily fatal.

Change ALL the other fluids ASAP since they undoubtedly had the same or worse attention to condition and change frequency

Good Luck you WILL need it.