PIAA Headlights

[NJ_EX35]

For those of you without HID lights... I just upgraded to PIAA Extreme white headlamps. I did have the SilverStars on the car previously and while they were good there is definitely an upgrade in terms of lighting performance with the PIAA. PIAA are expensive bulbs but if you have the money and patience to install them without removing the wheel well it is well worth it. The PIAA's definitely light up the road farther and more consistent compared with the SilverStars. If you have the money and want a significant upgrade to the factory halogens I would heavily recommend them.

FYI - I did not want to do the HID upgrade b/c I did not want to fuss around with harnesses and new balast... also the headlight assembly/lens is not designed for HIDs....

Once I figure out how to post pics I will follow up for those interested.

[zarar]

I would love to see some pics. I look under the hood and noticed that the bulbs were not blocked off and open to access without removing the wheelwells or the bumper. Did you manage the change the bulb by fitting your hands through the corners? Also how white/yellow are the bulbs compared to stock? Are they highwatt bulbs (Runs too hot, runs out fast) and how lumens does it have as far as distance? (Trying to compare it to an aftermarket HID Kit).

[AWGD8]

That is good to know. But the HID kit I bought from DMMTUNING for $55 is still working after 2 years. It`s just a plug and play thing, no cutting of wires.
Why spend for PIAA bulb that will only last for 1 year or less?

Just buy an HID 35W kit with a 5000K lumen (6k if you want a hint of blue). 35W kit is very safe for stock wire harness. You don`t need a relay harness that plug to the battery.
I know there is an old thread here were one of the member installed the kit under the hood. He did not jack the car up or remove the wheel well cover.

[NJ_EX35]

Maybe I will go for the HIDs after the PIAA goes out after a year. After researching the PIAAs I heard they do not last long... oh well its done now.

AWDG8 do you like the performance of the HIDs in the halogen light assembly? Just curious as I have read mixed reviews.

[zarar]

Depending on the quality of the projectors and the temperature of the HID's. I've had HID's in all my cars both stock and aftermarket. I honestly can't notice the difference, I always use 4500K-6000K for factory style white and doesn't seem to bother other drivers. As far the brightness, its a huge difference compared to halogen bulbs. The cutout line on the EX35's projectors seem really good and would look great with an HID kit installed, usually I get about 3-5 years before I swap them out for a new pair and just as easy replacing a bulb. Especially if you keep them factory temperatures, it will last even longer and you won't notice the difference between the factory option, visually. In todays market, there are a bunch of suppliers so most of them offer a lifetime warranty (limited and within reason I suppose) on the ballast and bulbs from defect too or DOA. I haven't tried PIAA's but have literally have tried everything else and I can easily say the Halogen Bulbs run too hot (therefore unsafe for the wiring harness), HID's require less power at idle to, only needs a certain amount just to light them up.

[john215]

I have a 2010 ex35 without the factory hid system and i would like to swap my factory bullcrap for a hid system. What would i need to buy to do it myself. And i was reading that you will need a relay hareness but if you don't please let me no what you recommend.

[zarar]

If you want them in your headlights for low beams, you definitely shouldn't need a relay harness, especially for majority of the new kits don't (Unless you are installing it for an independent fog light's and require a direct power source to the battery). All it is plug and play, there are a variety of HID kits out there, I would just choose one that offers a good price and offers "Digital" ballasts, this way your cars computer won't through a code (I know my Mercedes required it). Most kits should be between $35-$90 and isn't much big difference on the price. Basically all it is, is a ballast the goes between the bulb and factory harness so it can light up bulb (Sort of like an adapter). Installation if fairly easy if you are familiar with changing a bulb in a car. There are kits out there that cost $150+ but usually are rebranded kits selling for higher prices. I've bought my kits for $50 and have lasted 3-5 years easily. If you are to do it yourself, all you need to do is buy the HID kit the fits the headlights bulb type, no extra relays or anything. I recommend purchasing a 5000K or 6000K HID kit for a genuine factory look, unless your into the whole heavy blue lights (personally not for me and prefer a nice pure white color with a hint of blue).

Update: Someone else posted a link for an HID kit for a good price, its only $39.95. http://www.ddmtuning.com/product.php?II=101 These are fully digital ballasts and seem to be the slimmers one too so they don't take up a lot of room when mounting them down.

[john215]

i would like to do my fog lights too what would i need what type of bulb does it take and for the headlights too what bulb is that it takes.

[john215]

the low beam is H11 and the high beam is H9? Which one should i buy from ddmturning.com so i don't need a relay hareness for it.

And my fog lights are H8 do i need a relay for the fog lights.

[zarar]

All you need to do is purchase an H11 Kit (Headlights) and an H8 Kit (Fog lights), no need for a relay kit. You shouldn't need the HID kit for the high beams, but if you want it as a must have, then I believe you would need an adapter for that and its really not worth the trouble for buying high beam HID's (Really no point in having it), your better off just with the Low Beam (Main lights) and the Fog lights.

[Marconelly]

So this is all I'd need? (H11 version)

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-H ... 35W-or-55W

That is only $40, that's pretty amazing honestly. So this can be used a direct replacement to stock halogens, and can be replaced without dismounting the wheels or the whole light assembly? The thing that I don't understand the most is how and where to attach those ballasts/hid controllers. Thanks to them there seem to be so much more wires going around as well. Is there some kind of pictorial that explains how to do this on EX specifically. Or at least just the picture of the finalized setup?

[john215]

Thanks zarar i post pictures when the kit gets here and post them on here

[AWGD8]

Honestly, I don`t recommend HID kit for the EX35 highbeam. This might complicate the installation. Relay switch might work, but find someone who knows what he`s doing.

Since DDMtuning HID kit is cheap, make sure you buy an extra kit. Their shipping is slow due to high demand....

[AWGD8]

Maybe I will go for the HIDs after the PIAA goes out after a year. After researching the PIAAs I heard they do not last long... oh well its done now.

AWDG8 do you like the performance of the HIDs in the halogen light assembly? Just curious as I have read mixed reviews.

It`s night and day difference compare to stock bulb. I highly recommend the HID KIT.

[Marconelly]

I've just read the installation instructions from DDTTuning website. Sounds very easy. In fact, the biggest issue I see is how un-approachable light assembly on EX35 is. They mentioned they even provide a double sided tape for ballast mounting. They say it should be placed on a clean flat surface in an engine bay. I'm guessing also a surface that doesn't get hot from anything else in the engine. What's a good place to tape those ballasts then?

[AWGD8]

I've just read the installation instructions from DDTTuning website. Sounds very easy. In fact, the biggest issue I see is how un-approachable light assembly on EX35 is. They mentioned they even provide a double sided tape for ballast mounting. They say it should be placed on a clean flat surface in an engine bay. I'm guessing also a surface that doesn't get hot from anything else in the engine. What's a good place to tape those ballasts then?

There are so many good places under the hood, but the wires are not very long enough. You can use a zip tie and just tie it down under the headlight assembly housing. I did not use any tape at all on my ballast. As long as the ballast is fixed and not dangling around, your are safe.

[AWGD8]

Just a heads up guys. Just in case you trip a headlight fuse, s*** happens, the location of the headlight fuse is not in the EX35 manual.
There is a black fuse box behind the car`s battery. This is not the fuse box under the hood in front of the battery (that shows in the manual), the fuse box I`m talking about is hidden. You have to move the battery a bit (do not disconnect) to access it, and also some screws and plastic trims closer to the firewall (above).

[Marconelly]

OK, five minutes ago I've opened the hood again, reinvigorated by this thread, trying to figure out exactly what needs to be done for this bulb replacement - only to be reminded that the light assembly on EX is like some kind of dark labyrinth :-D
Seriously, everything is packed so tightly under the hood it's kind of incredible.

I only want to replace the short beam bulb, so I figured out it's located behind that light grey cap that has "open/lock" printed on it. Since it's practically impossible to reach for that cap due to a cabling array above it, I unscrew that one screw that's holding the cabling plastic splitter thing, move the cables away, and then by contorting my hand a bit, I managed to unscrew the cap. Sure enough, the lamp is there, but what now? There's connector on the bulb, and the cable coming into it, but it all sits behind the cap. If I'm to remove this connector and put all that new wiring and ballast between it and the new hid bulb, how am I to put this cap back in its place? It just doesn't seem possible. Or am I supposed to route all that new hid wiring somewhere else, and if so where?

Frankly, I wasn't even sure how to remove the connector from the bulb. Do I just pull it down or is there some kind of latch on it that needs to be pressed? It's all so inaccessible that you have to do it 100% blindly, so since I don't know exactly what to do I'm constantly worried that I'm going to break something. Is it better to unscrew the bulb first and then remove the connector? That way there's more grip to unscrew the bulb, but I'm betting then there won't be enough cable to pull it out in the open?

*edit* AWGD8, I've read some of your previous post regarding your own HID installation, and I don't like what I read about this grey cap. So I need to remove the wheel well to use some secret hole on the light assembly, or otherwise my only other option is to drill a hole in this cap? If so, it's a bit more than what I'm willing to put up with. Maybe the dealer service would agree to install these for me, I wonder how much they'd ask for it.

[AWGD8]

Marconelly:

The easiest way to do it is give yourself a day off and do it the right way. I know one guy here installed the HID kit without removing the front tires and wheel well cover. I think he`s a plastic man!

I checked that before installing my HID kit and there is no way my hands will fit in there. All my hands could do was touch that rear cap and says " You`re IT ! ".


Here is the right way.

Remove 1 wheel at a time, remove some screws (not sure how many?) that holds the wheel well cover. Remember some clips orientation attachments that hold the wheel well cover closer under the fender. Those are a bit tricky to put back. That is why do 1 wheel at at time, so you can compare those clips you removed vs. the untouched ones on the other side. Also remember how that wheel well cover tucked in under the fender.

Once you removed everything and have access behind the headlight housing assembly, then remove that gray cap. Unplug the harness connected to the bulb (I think there is a clip that hold the bulb in place, like the regular bulb. (Wear a glove when installing the hid bulb). Those OEM wire harness can be rerouted, so you have some space or hole under the housing assembly where you can route the wires from HID (wires that connects to hid filament or bulb) . There is a trick to install the hid bulb or filament. You put the bulb using the BIG hole (where gray caps covers it) and the wires that connects to the bulb can be routed down from the holes or small space under the housing assembly, this way there is not much wire sticking out behind the bulb where you won`t be able to close that gray plastic cover. Or another option is to drill a hole in that grey plastic cover and use that rubber boot DDM supplied to seal it.

The OEM headlight wiring harness that used to plug to the original bulb goes to the HID ballast connector. There is one more connector coming from the ballast, and that connects to the HID bulb connector. I think thats about it! it`s really a plug and play. I`ll take a picture of my HID KIT PLACEMENT today. I`ll post it here tonight. Although, you might not see much bec. the kit are all tucked in under the housing assembly.

The time killer for this installation is removing the tires and wheel well cover. I think it`s possible not to remove the wheel and just turn the steering to give more room behind the wheel well. Maybe just remove few clips and screws from the wheel well and kinda make some room or space just to gain access behind the headlight assembly, without having to remove the whole wheel well cover.

Keep us posted on the installation.

[AWGD8]

Here are the pictures, there`s not much to see, bec. all are hidden below the headlight assembly. The wires exposed under the hood are relay wires which you don`t really needed.
BTW, the relay wires has slack into it, so I can still remove the Air filter when needed.

Pic below: Center of the image shows the ballast held by a zip tie. It`s resting on the side of the air intake tube extension. (plastic one) Melting is not a concern. Those are hard plastic and the ballast has been there for more than 2 years now. Click the picture once and when redirected, click it one more time to make it larger.


There`s the ballast! The one with white sticker.


Relay wires that leads to the battery. Damn! that looks stock. :-)


Below is the driver side headlight relay wires. You can see the relay harness coming off the front cover. (top of radiator location).


Below: passenger side relay harness coming from the front cover towards the car`s battery. The other 2 wires goes down to the ballast.


Same as above, just different angle. That black tiny flat square thing is a relay fuse. The Relay switch is hidden under the radiator plastice cover.


Pic Below: That black fuse box I mentioned about. Located beside the battery. (larger one) You`ll find headlight fuse in there.


Of course, without installing this relay harness will save you half the time.

This is all you need to know after removing the wheel well cover- Diagram below:



Just to give you an idea how the optional relay harness looks like, pic below.



I went back and forth to my dealership so many times and they never noticed my aftermarket HID Kit installation yet.

[Marconelly]

Thanks so much for those extensive instructions and photos AWGD8. I still don't have a clear picture how to route HID wires so that the grey cap can be closed, but that's only because I've never seen the whole light assembly exposed. Looking at it just from above with the hood open, I didn't see any holes at the bottom, and to be honest, I don't understand why is there a hermetic seal rubber on the grey cap in the first place, if there are other exposed holes on that same housing.

That is a very good idea with just turning the wheel all the way to the side btw, that might just work. It would save a lot of time if the car doesn't have to be jacked twice for this to be done.

Why did you decided to use an extra relay harness btw? Oh, and I see that DDMTuning is also selling these "error code eliminators":

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Error ... tor-3-PAIR
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Error ... tor-5-PAIR

Are they required for EX at all?

[AWGD8]

You don`t need those error code gadgets. Thats for BMW cars.
Regarding the seal on that cap. You have to remember that the only thing separate the headlight assembly from getting wet is the wheel well cover. I think the wheel wheel cover is just a few inches away from the gray cap. There is a hole or an opening under the housing assembly and you`ll be surprised when you see it by your own eyes. That opening is safe, bec there is no way a water can get in there. Except deep flooded street :-)

I used a relay harness since I`m one of the first few who bought a 2008 EX35 and installed an HID kit - Sept. 2008. Only 2 members that time (2008) did that mods.
I was just trying to be safe, but from what I heard 2 years later, you really don`t need the relay harness if you are going to use a 35W Hid kit.
Our OEM harness can handle it. I highly recommend this HID kit upgrade if you have a safe place to work on the car and time.

[Timmbo]

Personally, I love the Sylvania Silverstar ULTRAS. They are comparable to the PIAA, but a bit less money, and you can buy them at any auto store. Be sure to get the ULTRA models instead of the regular Silverstars. They emit a nice bright white light and can be installed in minutes!

[Marconelly]

Is it necessary to disconnect the negative contact on the car battery before removing and installing bulbs? Can something bad really happen if the battery is kept connected and you make sure you don't short any contacts when installing wires?

I'm asking because I've heard that all the user settings get lost when you disconnect the battery.

[zarar]

Worst that would happen is that you would blow a fuse which is a cheap and easy fix. But you would blow a fuse if you have your headlights turned on or take the kit and unplug/plug it while there is power still running through (not fully drained). Usually people take it on/off to adjust the kit or move it to a better spot but if you do it in one shot, you should be fine. Again worst that will happen, you'll blow a headlight fuse which is like 5 bucks for a back of 20 fuses and takes 2 secs to swap out.

[Marconelly]

Does anyone have an idea if the color temperature rating of these aftermarket HIDs is the same as with OEM stuff?

So, say, if I get 4500K HIDs from DDM tuning, will that look as close to OEM 4300K as it can be?

Or should I go for the 5000K bulbs due to bulbs being 35W and thus possibly leaning a bit more towards yellow spectrum?

[AWGD8]

Yes, If you like close to yellow spectrum, get the 4500K, but most OEM HID is 5000K.

4500K is white yellow

5000K is pure white

6000K is white with bluish tint.

[Marconelly]

I'm pretty sure most OEM HIDs are Phillips 4100K or 4300K, but they are 55W, so I wonder if that makes any difference.

[AWGD8]

I`m not sure about OEM 55W. I thought most OEM HID are only 35W? I think if you use 55W ballast, you always go up two spectrum to get the desired look.

For example, if you want the look of 4500K (OEM) you buy 6000K bulb when use with 55W ballast.

[Marconelly]

I`m not sure about OEM 55W. I thought most OEM HID are only 35W? I think if you use 55W ballast, you always go up two spectrum to get the desired look.

For example, if you want the look of 4500K (OEM) you buy 6000K bulb when use with 55W ballast.

I could be wrong about the 55W, I thought I read that somewhere but that may well be wrong. I'm just confused that a lot of the aftermarket HID sellers describe 5000K as 'OEM', when I know for sure that most OEM use the 4100K or 4300K Philips bulb. Maybe that particular Philips bulb gives away different looking light than what the aftermarket ones use.