EdBwoy wrote: ↑
Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:21 pm
I might have missed it, but how exactly did you fix your signal plate issue - did you replace it or did you try to straighten it?
It seems the problem is still there.
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I replaced the signal plate entirely. I don't think its possible to straightened it.
As for the recurring p0335 code, I'm of the opinion, maybe the crank sensor I replaced initially wasn't the right one. And asides that, the fluctuating idling I talked about some time ago, wasn't the type that is related to throttle/ECU/accelerator resettings as has being suggested here.
I had to do some continuity, power, and resistance tests on the fuel injectors on cylinders #4&6.
On doing this tests, I discovered that the injector grounds on cylinders #4&6 were not pulsing. I did also a power test, where all the injectors on the eight cylinders had battery voltage. This tells me the problem isn't a power thing. My assumption is that there could be an open or short circuit voltage to ground or power. I ran all the tests from all ground points to the ECU, and both the J/B #1&2 on the driver and passenger sides for continuity to ground, and all the teats recommended by the manual on my ALLDATA SOFTWARE.
I found the ground wires that controlled the #4&6 ground injectors shorted to some other wire harnesses. Tracing the shorted wires, I had to removed the dashboard to trace. Surprisingly, the short circuits could be seen that it started from both sides of the driver and passenger sides J/B fuse locations, an up to the dashboard, and terminated at the JOINT CONNECTOR -19. It was a tedious job though.
I have repaired the shorted wires already, and I'm waiting to order some heat tubing's to protect the wires from heat, etc, since I tore opened the OEM coverings on the wiring harnesses.
I'd update the house after I'm done with the fix.
Right now, everything is in hold, because of the corona virus problem.