Hi guys, I'm new here, after trying for years to get registered.

I have a 2004 M45, which I got from an old client of mine some two years ago.
The car overheated on him, up to the stage that the engine stalled.

As a mechanic, I already knew what the problem was, and how to fix em. I got the car towed to my shop, and rebuilt the engine entirely.

Symptoms of problem:
1.After starting the car, I suddenly realised the idling wasn't somewhat stable, kind of like a misfire, and a hardstarting problem. When I scanned the car, I got a P0335 crankshaft sensor circuit A code.

When I replaced the sensor, the hard starting problems got solved, but the code was still showing on the scanned tool, after clearing the codes.

2. One thing I realised was that in traffic, the idling isn't stable. It kind of like tend to be dancing forward and backward, during idling.

3. Another thing I have noticed was that the tachometer jerks as I accelerate and drive down the road. It looses power, and there's a strong gasoline smell from the engine side. Although there was no fuel leaks.

4. Sometimes I can't ascend up a hill, because the power loss.

Things I have done to try to fix this:
1. Replaced the crankshaft sensor
2. Replaced all spark plugs, and ignition coils,
NB: Spark plugs on the passenger side bank were not firing(not white, but are black and not fouled with oil) as compared to the driver side spark plugs, which had a grey colour showing proper combustion.
3. Replaced fuel pump, and fuel filter
4. Serviced the fuel injectors
5. Replaced the MAF sensor, with no avail.
6. Tested the circuits of the crankshaft sensor for voltage, etc power, ground, and signal.

My suspicions:
1. Does this mean the flex plate on the converter may have bent during engine installation?
2. Could it be that the camshaft phaser sensors are weak? Why are there no codes to depict camshaft phaser sensors?
3. Can it be that the timing chain settings have misaligned or jumped a tooth?

PLS I NEED HELP!
What could be the problem why the P0335 code keeps coming on after all I have done on the car? Has anyone ever encountered a problem like this, and how did you solved it?

Thanks guys for your help.

PS: I intended to opened up the engine next month, to recheck the timing on the car

Hi there.

The first thing I would do is look at the FSM (link in my signature) and read the possibles for that code. That being said, I believe there is multiple cam/crankshaft sensors on the car. Perhaps you didn't change the right one?

Dxta wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 12:49 am

...
My suspicions:
1. Does this mean the flex plate on the converter may have bent during engine installation?
...
3. Can it be that the timing chain settings have misaligned or jumped a tooth?

...

These are the most likely issues in my opinion. One of them is obviously easier to check than the other. For reference:
Link 1.06-infiniti-m45-vk45de-engine-rebuilt-n ... 19423.html
Link 2. 2002-q45-cranks-but-won-t-start-after-e ... l#p6794510

If I may ask, how long has the car been running in this condition?

Ilya. I changed the one under the car, attached to the transmission system. I'd try replacing the camshaft phaser sensors and see what happens.

EdBwoy. Its being like a year now that I have being battling this problem. I'm thinking maybe when I was putting the engine back into the car, from the top, that could be the reasons why this happened?! I don't know yet. Want to test out some sensors, and see what happens, before I checked the timing again, and probably the flex plate.

But what amazes me is that if the timing wasn't correct, shouldn't I get a P0016 or so crankshaft/camshaft correlation code?

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 8:14 pm

Dxta wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 12:49 am

...
My suspicions:
1. Does this mean the flex plate on the converter may have bent during engine installation?
...
3. Can it be that the timing chain settings have misaligned or jumped a tooth?

...

These are the most likely issues in my opinion. One of them is obviously easier to check than the other. For reference:
Link 1.06-infiniti-m45-vk45de-engine-rebuilt-n ... 19423.html
Link 2. 2002-q45-cranks-but-won-t-start-after-e ... l#p6794510

If I may ask, how long has the car been running in this condition?

Being using it for more than a year now. I might need to replaced the camshaft phaser sensors close to the VVT actuators and see what happens.
y. Its being like a year now that I have being battling this problem. I'm thinking maybe when I was putting the engine back into the car, from the top, that could be the reasons why this happened?! I don't know yet. Want to test out some sensors, and see what happens, before I checked the timing again, and probably the flex plate.

But what amazes me is that if the timing wasn't correct, shouldn't I get a P0016 or so crankshaft/camshaft correlation code?

Dxta

Basing the fact that you’ve rebuilt the motor and replaced the crankshaft position sensor, coupled with the fact that the vehicle is dancing back and forth and the motor jerks upon acceleration, it sounds like your crankshaft is out of balance. Did you remove it at any time? Are there any other reasons why the crank had to be moved or adjusted during the rebuild process? You also mentioned that the transmission was reinstalled as well. You may just open everything up and observe.

FiShEyEz wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 24, 2020 6:05 am

Dxta

Basing the fact that you’ve rebuilt the motor and replaced the crankshaft position sensor, coupled with the fact that the vehicle is dancing back and forth and the motor jerks upon acceleration, it sounds like your crankshaft is out of balance. Did you remove it at any time? Are there any other reasons why the crank had to be moved or adjusted during the rebuild process? You also mentioned that the transmission was reinstalled as well. You may just open everything up and observe.

Hi FiShEyEz. I didn't removed the transmission together with the engine. I removed only the engine from the front with the transmission system intact in the car.
The crankshaft was not removed during the rebuild. Engine overheated. I got the car as is(overheated). I just decided to rebuild the engine after all. Crankshaft was intact
From the links provided by Edbowy, it appears to show that its always a common problem to have such codes, if engines are removed from the front without the transmission system altogether. I'm leaning towards the signal plate may have bent during reinstalling the engine.

Dxta

You did not mention any relearn procedures for computation of engine and transmission operation.
Here are some procedures that I found that may assist you.

Try all of these...

**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.

ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. 1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

I pulled them from a forum for the G35 but it should work just the same.

FishEYE. I'm dropping the engine this week to take a look at the flex plate. The flex plate may be bent or so

Unless you really like the challenge, you don't have to remove the engine to inspect the signal plate.

Remove the crank position sensor and look inside the hole while turning the crank bolt. Sometimes it's evident just to the naked eye, and sometimes it requires putting a phone/video camera to record it then play back the footage at high speed.

I've had people who could bend it back using a screwdriver, while for others the engine had to be separated from the transmission to replace the signal plate.

Good luck with whatever path you choose.

I want to update the house today. So I decided to have a look at the flex plate of the m45 with the persistent p0335 code.
First of all, I had to removed the dust cover at the transmission system area, to see if I could have access to the flex plate. I could only see the flywheel, through the opening there. I decided to removed the new crankshaft sensor, and see if i could get a proper view of the flex drive plate. To my surprised, the flex plate was bent on some of itw circumferences. To be sure the plate was bent, I had to turn the crankshaft pulley at every 45°, then go back and looked at the flex plate for uneven circumferences. Now I know exactly why the engine had being acting poorly.
I would removed the flex plate tomorrow by seperating the transmission from the engine.
Thanks everyone, for the pointer in gradually trying to solce this problem.

Dxta

I’m glad you found the problem. Now the only question to answer is why the flex plate was bent.

FiSh

Hi FishEyEz. I had to reflect why it actually got bent. I wished I could send some pictures, but I don't know how to go about that on the forum.
Why the signal plate got bent, was my own mistake. I forgot to tightened the converter bolts after I had rebuilt, and installed he engine in the car(I didn't removed the engine with the transmission system ).
Immediately I stared the car, there was a terrible noise coming from the engine side, which with time, gradually eased out. I had to out off the engine, and tighten the bolts. But afterwards, that was how I have been driving the car. I just didn't know it had affected the signal plate. It was when I came over to this forum, and the other experiences of others, that it dawn on me to have the signal plate checked.

Just another update since this week.
My car has being misfiring, with no misfire codes showing, but each time the engine is idling, you kind like perceived raw gasoline in the cabin, and the exhaust pipe too. It losses power on hard acceleration, except you ease off the load on the accelerator pedal, and it also bucks.

What I have done:
1. Replaced all ignition coils, fuel injectors, fuel pump, done oil change too, with no improvements.
2. Done voltage and continuity tests on fuel injector harnesses, etc.

Voltage results
1. With ignition ON, and all fuel injector connectors unplugged, I got battery voltage, with the ground or signal pin showing 0volts.
Here was where I got so confused, and I suspected I might have the ground wire if the fuel injectors shorting to power in this case. Whenever I plugged all the injector connectors back onto the fuel injectors, and tests for power, on the Injector pin outs, both the power and the ground/signal of all the injectors shows battery voltage. I have checked all fuses, connectors, and wiring harnesses, according to a repair manual I read. At the passenger side, in the cabin, all the fuses are OK. But there's a connector that each time I unplugged it, the signal ground wire shows zero volts, which is the right value. But when it is plugged in, the short to power returns again.

Can anyone suggests where I should look to identify why the signal or ground is always showing battery voltage, when the ignition is ON?

Thanks everyone.

PS: I also unplugged the ECU connector, and still got battery voltage at both power and signal ground with the ignition switch ON.
This method has helped me isolate the ECU as the culprit which is shorting the ground of the injectors to power.

Dxta

I assume you reset the ECU when you were replacing coils and injectors and when you were diagnosing electrical faults. You may consider any of the relearn procedures I posted for you before. If that doesn’t solve the rich condition and misfire, it may be that one of your spark plugs aren’t firing. We know for an absolute fact that you are getting fuel to the motor, but it’s also clear that at least one of the cylinders aren’t firing. Connect an OBD reader and inspect the cylinder(s) in question.

For the electrical diagnosing in regard to the connecter for the interior fuse box, is the connector supposed to constantly harness power from the battery? I understand it is multiple circuits for a variety of devices but there will be times where that connector may not be doing any work and consequentially won’t be pulling any power. Try powering any accessories related to that fuse box and check the voltage.

At any rate, I would be hard-pressed to believe that the ECU itself is somehow defective or broken, unless the vehicle has experience flood or water damage.

FiShEyEz wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 22, 2020 12:37 pm

At any rate, I would be hard-pressed to believe that the ECU itself is somehow defective or broken, unless the vehicle has experience flood or water damage.

I agree with Fish.....you changed the injectors, I would check they are the proper injectors by checking the ohm's value of the new injectors you installed. If ohms are not correct, It will give symptoms like you describe. You need to know the proper ohms value the OEM injectors call for, and compare to what you installed if you cannot cross reference compatibility via part #!

FiShEyEz wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 22, 2020 12:37 pm

Dxta

I assume you reset the ECU when you were replacing coils and injectors and when you were diagnosing electrical faults. You may consider any of the relearn procedures I posted for you before. If that doesn’t solve the rich condition and misfire, it may be that one of your spark plugs aren’t firing. We know for an absolute fact that you are getting fuel to the motor, but it’s also clear that at least one of the cylinders aren’t firing. Connect an OBD reader and inspect the cylinder(s) in question.

For the electrical diagnosing in regard to the connecter for the interior fuse box, is the connector supposed to constantly harness power from the battery? I understand it is multiple circuits for a variety of devices but there will be times where that connector may not be doing any work and consequentially won’t be pulling any power. Try powering any accessories related to that fuse box and check the voltage.

At any rate, I would be hard-pressed to believe that the ECU itself is somehow defective or broken, unless the vehicle has experience flood or water damage.

Vehicle had never experienced flood before, and the surprising thing is it is whenever I connect the injector connectors back on the injectors themselves, that I get both the ground and power harness on connector having battery voltage. But if I disconnect the M143 connector on the passenger side J/B #2, and turned on the ignition, I get normal battery voltage at the power wire of the injectors, and zero voltage on the ground wire.
I'd perform resistance tests on the Injectors again and see what I got. My former injectors had a uniform 16.5ohms, but I decided to replaced them. Although I did test the replacement ones.

Scanning the car, I still got a p0335, and a new Knox sensor code, after repairing the knock sensor harness that was eaten by rodents.

Would a knock sensor code,P0327 caused all the problems I'm having with my car? I don't know why the P0335 crankshaft sensor code keeps coming on . I don't want to give up making this car to work. I have being trying to fix it since last week daily.

Dxta

A knock sensor will not cause a knock, but a bad knock sensor will not prevent knock. A bad crank sensor can cause a knock

Pls how do I share pictures of the progress of NY work so far over here?

I might have missed it, but how exactly did you fix your signal plate issue - did you replace it or did you try to straighten it?
It seems the problem is still there.

On posting pictures here are some methods people use around here -how-to-post-pictures-on-nicoclub-compil ... 18411.html

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:21 pm

I might have missed it, but how exactly did you fix your signal plate issue - did you replace it or did you try to straighten it?
It seems the problem is still there.

On posting pictures here are some methods people use around here -how-to-post-pictures-on-nicoclub-compil ... 18411.html

I replaced the signal plate entirely. I don't think its possible to straightened it.

As for the recurring p0335 code, I'm of the opinion, maybe the crank sensor I replaced initially wasn't the right one. And asides that, the fluctuating idling I talked about some time ago, wasn't the type that is related to throttle/ECU/accelerator resettings as has being suggested here.

I had to do some continuity, power, and resistance tests on the fuel injectors on cylinders #4&6.
On doing this tests, I discovered that the injector grounds on cylinders #4&6 were not pulsing. I did also a power test, where all the injectors on the eight cylinders had battery voltage. This tells me the problem isn't a power thing. My assumption is that there could be an open or short circuit voltage to ground or power. I ran all the tests from all ground points to the ECU, and both the J/B #1&2 on the driver and passenger sides for continuity to ground, and all the teats recommended by the manual on my ALLDATA SOFTWARE.

I found the ground wires that controlled the #4&6 ground injectors shorted to some other wire harnesses. Tracing the shorted wires, I had to removed the dashboard to trace. Surprisingly, the short circuits could be seen that it started from both sides of the driver and passenger sides J/B fuse locations, an up to the dashboard, and terminated at the JOINT CONNECTOR -19. It was a tedious job though.

I have repaired the shorted wires already, and I'm waiting to order some heat tubing's to protect the wires from heat, etc, since I tore opened the OEM coverings on the wiring harnesses.

I'd update the house after I'm done with the fix.

Right now, everything is in hold, because of the corona virus problem.


Dxta

I'm getting misfires, and some sort of hesitations, and sudden loss of power, when I try to accelerate from a stop.

There isn't any code on misfires showing on my scan tool.

I have replaced all spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, without the fuel injectors though.


According to Alldata, or Nissan manual on resistance specifications, all resistance readings should show;

SPECIFICATIONS: (10-60°C: 13.5-17.5ohms)

In an attempt to try to diagnose the problem, I decided to do a resistance test on the fuel injectors, and these are the results I got:


BANK #1. RESISTANCE (Ohms)
1. 18.3

3. 18.0

5. 18.0

7. 18.0



BANK #2. SPECIFICATION(ohm)
2. 17.8

4. 17.9

6. 17.9

8. 17.9

NB: Conditions these tests were carried out was allowing the engine to cool down for 30min, with the temperature gauge close to the zero mark, after the engine was warmed.

Here are my questions:
1. My mind tells me that comparing these tests results above with the specifications from the manual, it appears that all the injectors are out of range(above 17.5ohms), and needs to be replaced.

2. I'm I correct with these assertions, or there's something else with the results?

3. Bank #1 resistance readings were too way above the required specification.

4. When I measured the resistance values of the fuel injectors when the engine was cold (not warmed), all the resistance readings were, 16.3ohms all through the eight fuel injectors.


Please if anyone has suggestions, could you please provide?



Dxta