06 infiniti m45 VK45DE engine rebuilt, now P0335 code. [SOLVED]

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puerkone
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Hi, I did a rebuild on an 06 infiniti M45. I wanted to ask your guys feedback. Any help will be much appreciated. So I replaced every major part. I finally put it back in the car but however when I turn on the car I get a code P0335 crank angle sensor. I checked the wiring and replaced the sensor with two different ones. Everything checks out. Only thing I could think of will be the timing chain maybe skipped a tooth. So here are some pictures of the timing chain install.
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Last edited by EdBwoy on Fri Feb 16, 2018 9:52 am, edited 2 times in total.


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puerkone
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I am wondering if I am missing the transmission dust plate. It is about 1/8" thick and maybe thats causing the crankshaft position sensor to go off? let me know. I would appreciate it very much.

I am missing this
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Last edited by EdBwoy on Wed Feb 14, 2018 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Image links

EdBwoy
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Hello, first I'd like to request that you use a different hosting site for your pictures. Most of us cannot see Photobucket pictures. See my signature about posting pictures.

2nd, you sound capable so I assume you are looking at the correct sensor at the bottom of the bellhousing; but is it possibe your signal plate is bent? Look up into the hole while turning the crank (I've used sped up video in the past to help show wobble)

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puerkone
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Sorry it is my first time uploading pictures. I attached the links to pictures. let me know thanks.

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puerkone
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Ok I got it to work. Let me know what you think. thanks.

EdBwoy
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Thank you for the pictures, they definitely help. (I also made some edits to clean up the thread)

Oh yeah, the rear plate is important. Is your car actually running or does it just crank forever and throw the code?
That 1/8" is enough to distort the crank signal.

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puerkone
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Hi yes. the car turns on no problem. It sounds really healthy but has a hard time starting. It wont let me rev past 3000 RPM either. Sends code p0335 crank angle sensor. So when I remove the engine I just want to make sure that the dust plate is the problem and not the timing chain because other wise I would have to remove the timing cover and replace all the silicone and oem orings. Let me know if the timing chain marks are correct. I will be removing the engine tomorrow. Thanks.

EdBwoy
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Before you do that, try spacing the bellhousing by that 1/8 of an inch to see if that helps. Maybe using washers.
If you had timing issues, I'd expect other codes... but I'll check the pictures out again.

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puerkone
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Hello. Thank you very much for the reply. Yea I tried that today and definitely started without the check engine like on. It started on the second crank. Maaaaan silly dust shield. It needs to be installed for the crank angle sensor.

LIBRILZ
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Generally if the car idles fine and smooth, the timing is set correctly, the hard starting is another issue, which from the sound of it you have figured out

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Great to hear. If you leave the code alone, it should disappear within a few start cycles.

I looked over the pictures again, and the timing looks correct.
I noticed that you had used RTV on the inside of the timing cover on surfaces that mated and are sealed by O-Rings. My preference would have been not to do that, but if anything that isn't meant to be there breaks off, there seems to be a straight path to the oil filter or bottom of the oil pan.

With the main issue pretty well handled, I was curious to ask if you are operating a machine shop. The parts look like they have been cleaned with perhaps a little more than a toothbrush and elbow grease. :biggrin: Solvent + sandblasting?

Also, are you planning to leave the car as is, spaced with washers or do you intend to remove the transmission to replace the rear plate?
If you can't locate the original or can't find a replacement close to you, let me know and I can give you one that I have.
You'd have to pay shipping from St. Louis, but maybe you have the ability to make something up faster than the postal service can deliver.

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puerkone
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Thank you so much for the replies. I really appreciate it. For the plate, I ended up buying one at an infiniti yard. 40$. I would have gotten yours but I got it after I read your reply. I ended up not removing the transmission. I just cut it in 4 pieces and slid it gently with a screw driver between the engine and transmission. It took a while but it worked. Then I turned the car on and no more P0335 code. I drove it 10 miles and the catalyst and o2 monitors became ready. I gotta drive it tomorrow again another 10 miles for the evap system to turn on. I have to smog the vehicle tomorrow so I can finally register it in california.

Yea I just slightly smeared it because I had leaks before in the past. I work with 5 different machine shops. I do full rebuilds on any car. I love nissans and infinitis. I own a 93 Nissan 240sx and this engine totally reminded me of a ka24de engine but two of them in one connected. Here are some pictures of what got damaged.

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puerkone
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Image
piston damage caused low compression

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cylinder head was starting to get damaged

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dust plate repair

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dust plate cut

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puerkone
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You can follow me on instagram sarvidec

EdBwoy
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puerkone wrote:
Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:48 pm
... I ended up not removing the transmission. I just cut it in 4 pieces and slid it gently with a screw driver between the engine and transmission. It took a while but it worked. Then I turned the car on and no more P0335 code...
Smart thinking. It is just so shaped that it is obstructed by the ring gear + signal plate and thus can't slide over them intact.

I shall update the title of the thread to reflect the discussion here.

EdBwoy
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Help me out on the last set of pictures. I see a lot of pock marks (possibly pre-ignition dents), but what exactly was wrong with the piston itself to cause a loss of compression? Was it an issue with the piston rings - and how many cylinders were affected?

Also, what was wrong with the head? The picture might be showing it already worked on, but I can't quite make out the defects.

Did you happen to deal with the lower end with regards to bearings? That's usually our Achilles heel.

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puerkone
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EdBwoy, Yea it took an hour to install. I just had to cut where the dowel pins are because I can't slide the plate through there.
So on the side of the piston, a piece of the ring land chipped off and broke the 1st and 2nd piston rings in half. The customer was driving the car with a bad ignition coil for 2 weeks everyday. The head got slight dents like the piston. It is hard to see. Only one cylinder got damaged and yes the rod and main bearings on that cylinder were wearing out too. That is why I tell people if the check engine light comes on, make sure to check it right away. Otherwise the engine could be damaged like this.

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Thanks. Yes indeed, that makes sense on the mode of failure/damage. I hope they don't have a catalytic converter on the way out. 2 weeks of daily driving sounds like a lot of abuse in this case.

Based on your experience as a rebuilder and especially having done it on a VK45DE, I have a few questions if you don't mind.
Did you just buy the stock piston setup and bearings to rebuild it or did you find something else in the aftermarket?
How about the head gasket and bolts - did you find the bolts reusable?
Did you have to rework the block as well? (Due to the piston rings)
Cost. Well, slightly different here since I usually deal with engines with bad bottom ends and used engines are sometimes cheaper than an attempt at repair. I know circumstances are different and sometimes you have to put in a few hundred Dollars of work to even determine if an engine is rebuildable.
So, I'll just ask what did you quote the customer for this particular rebuild?

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puerkone
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Of course. I was looking for a build like this for a long time on forums but definitely had a hard time specific info like timing chain install. So I took everything to the machine shop to have everything inspected. I was able to reuse all the pistons except the one that got damaged. I was able to recondition that connecting rod too because the bearings wore out and the connecting rod began to oval shape its inner diameter. So machine shop was able to round it back to its circular shape. I ended up buying standard size infiniti genuine piston rings, and grade 2 piston. On the block, the piston grade and crankshaft bearing grades are stamped on top of the cylinder block. I was able to order standard thrust washers, crank and main bearings from car part wiz on ebay. For the head gasket set, I bought Mahle Headgasket set. It came with new valve seals so machine shop changed them. I bought Car part wiz timing chain kit and head bolts were not reusable. They seemed stretched when I removed them. I ended up spending about 1500$ for parts and machine work.

LIBRILZ
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How many miles was on the car at the time you started working on it? If you don't mind

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puerkone
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Engine has now 150k

EdBwoy
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Thanks for the info puerkone.

I have my old engine and with the machine shop quotes I've been getting, I am usually better off scrapping the metal... well, and the last engine I got threw a rod through the block. Haha

Again, since I mainly deal with rod knock cases, the pistons connecting rods do exhibit some ovality at the big end. In addition to that, the crankshaft gets ground into with a very obvious step.
The machinist was OK refinishing the crankshaft, but wasn't sure the standard bearings in the market would compensate well enough.
Thanks for confirming that standard bearings can work* - note the asterisk, hehe.

Add another twist to it in that the engines have circulated enough metal in the oil that every single lubricated surface is scored. By the time I think about the oil jets, oil pump and others, it is starting to seem like a very expensive adventure.
Or would you try to rebuild such an engine?

LIBRILZ
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i just wonder why an engine with such low miles seems to have low end issues, doesn’t seem right, however i have seen M45 at auction with well over 200k, but who knows the history of those vehicles? maybe they have already had engine work

i just did my first oil change and after this i will be going to 5k on Mobil 1 extended performance 5w-30 and sending a sample off to black stone labs to see how things are going internally, car is stated to have 96K

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puerkone
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Anytime. I am glad I can help. Here is my brief observation when it came to rebuilding the engine. If the pistons look in good condition and cylinders hone out to standard size, then I would reuse the pistons. A special case like me was that I was able to reuse the pistons except the one that was falling apart. I ended up buying the same grade piston because infiniti dealer parts sell four different grade sizes for standard size pistons and one size for over sized pistons. If the pistons are worn out or the cylinder needs to be bored out to next size up, I used carparts wiz on ebay or mizumo auto piston and piston ring kit over sized. I installed various sets and never had issues with those brands. Now, for the rods, I would have the machine shop recondition them so they are round. For the crankshaft, if it polishes then I would reuse it for standard size. If it had rod knock damage, it is cheaper to just buy a re manufactured crank shaft from autozone because they sell them with matching standard size rod, thrust washers, and main bearings. Everything else like headgasket kit and timing chain kits were aftermarket. However the orings for the oil pan, oil pump, timing covers, and cam shaft actuator covers were purchased at the dealer. I spent about 60$ on genuine orings. I say if you find an engine cheaper than 1500$ in your area with under 100k then, I would do it. Other wise it is better to rebuild the engine yourself. Yea these engines are good. Just people drive them with a check engine light for a long time and end up messing it up which is what happened to mine. I hope this helps.

Dxta
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:naughty:
LIBRILZ wrote:
Thu Feb 15, 2018 4:17 am
Generally if the car idles fine and smooth, the timing is set correctly, the hard starting is another issue, which from the sound of it you have figured out
Hi. I know this is an old thread. I'm facing the same issues with my car right now. It just does not idle smoothly. Are you saying it could be the timing? But if it were to be the timing, would there not be a camshaft/crankshaft correlation code, which could mean the timing?


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