Performance headgaskets for KA24DE

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
Pornflakes
Posts: 140
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2003 7:36 am
Contact:

Post

matt0941 wrote:But why would you recommend the main stud kit if one were to run a stock bottom end?


Stock bottom end is if you were to use stock main bolts to hold the bottom end together. These bolts are not even close to the strength provided by ARP main studs. ARP studs will give a much more even clamping pressure along the whole crankshaft, will not stretch like the stock bolts do, and will hold by far MUCH more pressure than the stock bolts do.

Once you use ARP main studs, you'll no longer have a "stock" bottom end. I'd go the extra mile if I were you.


User avatar
matt0941
Posts: 404
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 6:33 pm
Car: Counter-Strike, Cars, Girls (in that order)

Post

I suppose I could its just that I don't see the performance aspect of it. Ill try and do more research and find out.

Pornflakes
Posts: 140
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2003 7:36 am
Contact:

Post

matt0941 wrote:I suppose I could its just that I don't see the performance aspect of it. Ill try and do more research and find out.


The problem with the bottom end is not the crankshaft. Any machine shop who looks at it would tell you that it's beefy. If anything would to give in first on the bottom end, it would be the stock bolts. The bolts would either completely fail themselves (snap, break, bend, etc...), or stretch enough to not hold the crankshaft in place like they should. Either one could be disastrous. The crankshaft should very precisely "glide" on the main bearings with equal clamping force all over.

ARP main studs would assure you that the crankshaft is held onto the block very securely, specially under stressful situations. That's the performance aspect of it.

That's the same performance aspect of the ARP head studs too. The main reason the gasket fails with stock head bolts is because they (the bolts) stretch under pressure and no longer hold the head onto the block firmly. That slightest "lifting" of the head from the block (due to bolt stretching) will cause the gasket to fail.

User avatar
C-Kwik
Moderator
Posts: 8070
Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

Post

Why does it matter? Keep in mind that when a rod is pushing down on the crank, the rod bolts are not under it's highest level of stress. The highest level of stress on those bolts will be at TDC on the exhaust stroke when the weight of the piston and rod are pulling up. And since that tensile load is a result of piston weight and engine speed, if the weight is the same or lighter, and you are not revving any higher than stock, the OEM rod bolts should hold up fine...

Pornflakes
Posts: 140
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2003 7:36 am
Contact:

Post

C-Kwik wrote:Why does it matter? Keep in mind that when a rod is pushing down on the crank, the rod bolts are not under it's highest level of stress. The highest level of stress on those bolts will be at TDC on the exhaust stroke when the weight of the piston and rod are pulling up. And since that tensile load is a result of piston weight and engine speed, if the weight is the same or lighter, and you are not revving any higher than stock, the OEM rod bolts should hold up fine...


I'm sure you just overlooked it, but we're talking about main bolts, not rod bolts. Two very different things ;)


Return to “KA24E / KA24DE Forum”