Performance headgaskets for KA24DE

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
ajmoore3
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Does anybody know anywhere i can get a high performance head gasket for a high compresion KA24DE.


encasemyheart
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You might want to do a search or ask in the 'All Motor' section, they know alot about this.

I haven't heard too much about headgaskets to raise compression, lower it definately, but not raise.

Try the Nissan dealer though.

Structure240sx
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he wants it for a high compression motor not to raise the compression. search around i thin the company's name is cosmetic, cosmet , something liek that makes a copper type head gasket but its on a group buy of like 50. i think they sitll need some people

S13Ka24e
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Have these guys make you one

http://www.importperformancepa....html

Or get to that through

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

Good luck!

encasemyheart
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Structure240sx wrote:he wants it for a high compression motor not to raise the compression. search around i thin the company's name is cosmetic, cosmet , something liek that makes a copper type head gasket but its on a group buy of like 50. i think they sitll need some people


ahhh...thanks for the correction.

Structure240sx
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dont worry about it

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C-Kwik
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SCE Gaskets makes a copper one in different thicknesses.

I thought the company that wanted 50 orders would be making a multi-layer metal gasket? I didn't pay attention much, but that's what I remember...

Structure240sx
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you might be right i wasnt paying much attetnion either just trying to point the guy in the right direction

Bill
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I have found best results with a stock gasket and ARP or stock head bolts.

Pornflakes
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Bill wrote:I have found best results with a stock gasket and ARP or stock head bolts.


Same here. I've seen over 30psi on a KA24DET with the stock gasket and ARP studs. However, when the engine still had stock bolts instead of ARP studs, the gasket blew at 18PSI... my personal experience.

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EZcheese15
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Pornflakes wrote:Same here. I've seen over 30psi on a KA24DET with the stock gasket and ARP studs. However, when the engine still had stock bolts instead of ARP studs, the gasket blew at 18PSI... my personal experience.


That sounds about like how Jay (PSI240SX)'s car was. He ran ARP studs and stock headgasket. However, I think if you O-ring it with a copper head gasket, it will even be better. Jay still had to replace his head gasket every few weeks it seemed. Although, 30psi will do that to a stock headgasket :)

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matt0941
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Backyard has those for sale.

Pornflakes
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EZcheese15 wrote:That sounds about like how Jay (PSI240SX)'s car was. He ran ARP studs and stock headgasket. However, I think if you O-ring it with a copper head gasket, it will even be better. Jay still had to replace his head gasket every few weeks it seemed. Although, 30psi will do that to a stock headgasket :)


Actually, Jay told me himself that he used stock bolts and not ARP studs. I think he would've never needed to replace the headgasket had he used ARP studs instead.

o-ring with a copper headgasket is indeed better, but will have very poor sealing against water leakage in the long run (10,000+ miles). Even the best sealants wouldn't seal water for too long. Constant expansion/contraction, temperature extremes, etc... are very harsh on the sealant used on a copper gasket.

The best combination (reliability and performance considered) in my opinion is a stock or Fel-Pro headgasket with ARP studs (and no o-rings). I say this because I've actually tried: stock gasket + stock bolts, copper gasket + stock bolts + o-ring, stock gasket + ARP studs, stock gasket + ARP studs + o-ring. Just plain stock gasket + ARP studs was by far a better combination than all of the above.

Bill
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Pornflakes wrote:The best combination (reliability and performance considered) in my opinion is a stock or Fel-Pro headgasket with ARP studs (and no o-rings). I say this because I've actually tried: stock gasket + stock bolts, copper gasket + stock bolts + o-ring, stock gasket + ARP studs, stock gasket + ARP studs + o-ring. Just plain stock gasket + ARP studs was by far a better combination than all of the above.


This is what I run and I agree. I like it cause I hope the stock gasket will blow before it melts my pistons.

Silvia007
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Where can you pick up a set of ARP Studs?? Website??

Pornflakes
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Silvia007 wrote:Where can you pick up a set of ARP Studs?? Website??


http://www.ka24de.com

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EZcheese15
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Pornflakes wrote:Actually, Jay told me himself that he used stock bolts and not ARP studs. I think he would've never needed to replace the headgasket had he used ARP studs instead.

o-ring with a copper headgasket is indeed better, but will have very poor sealing against water leakage in the long run (10,000+ miles). Even the best sealants wouldn't seal water for too long. Constant expansion/contraction, temperature extremes, etc... are very harsh on the sealant used on a copper gasket.

The best combination (reliability and performance considered) in my opinion is a stock or Fel-Pro headgasket with ARP studs (and no o-rings). I say this because I've actually tried: stock gasket + stock bolts, copper gasket + stock bolts + o-ring, stock gasket + ARP studs, stock gasket + ARP studs + o-ring. Just plain stock gasket + ARP studs was by far a better combination than all of the above.


Oh yeah, I forgot. I've actually helped Jay replace his headgasket before....but I just didn't remember.

So you've tried all those combinations? Wow. That's good to know! I didn't know anyone had tried those combinations before. If you don't mind me asking, what all do you have done? How similar is your setup to Jays? You also said you ran 30+psi...what exactly did you run? I think the most Jay ever pushed was 30psi, but boost was falling off because his turbo was too small. Have you run in the 1/4?

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matt0941
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Quote »The head stud set contains 10 ARP studs, 10 ARP washers and 10 ARP nuts. The main stud set also contains 10 ARP studs, 10 ARP washers and 10 ARP nuts.[/quote] (From ka24de.com)

Whats the difference between sets?

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EZcheese15 wrote:Oh yeah, I forgot. I've actually helped Jay replace his headgasket before....but I just didn't remember.

So you've tried all those combinations? Wow. That's good to know! I didn't know anyone had tried those combinations before. If you don't mind me asking, what all do you have done? How similar is your setup to Jays? You also said you ran 30+psi...what exactly did you run? I think the most Jay ever pushed was 30psi, but boost was falling off because his turbo was too small. Have you run in the 1/4?


A friend and I ran 2.1 bar on an almost identical setup as mine. The only difference is that he has 96lb injectors, its respective JWT programmed ECU, and an Apexi s-afc. I have 50lb injectors with a JWT programmed ECU, and no s-afc. I max out at 14PSI without a fuel pressure riser (fmu, pressure reg, etc...) with the 50lb injectors. His injector duty cycle reached 95% at 2.1 bar (just a wee bit over 30 psi), so we didn't push any further (detonation at 30psi isn't very forgiving :) ). I have only done 1/8 in San Diego (8.9 ET, embarrassing 60ft), but not yet 1/4. I don't think he's dynoed his car yet...i can't wait until he does. I know I'm waiting for a larger fuel system and some means of tuning it before I do go to the dyno (also thinking on a DIY wideband O2 monitoring system).

He also has a larger turbo than me.

Everything else is the same on my car and his:

JWT/Arias pistons 8.5:1 CR, 0.5mm overPauter RodsFelPro head gasketARP head and main studsCustom manifoldJWT railCobra MAF

Pornflakes
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matt0941 wrote:(From ka24de.com)

Whats the difference between sets?


Different sized studs on the main and the head studs. The head studs fasten the block onto the head. The main studs fasten the bottom end (crankshaft onto the block main and main caps...one solid main cap in the case of the KA24DE).

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EZcheese15
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Pornflakes wrote:A friend and I ran 2.1 bar on an almost identical setup as mine. The only difference is that he has 96lb injectors, its respective JWT programmed ECU, and an Apexi s-afc. I have 50lb injectors with a JWT programmed ECU, and no s-afc. I max out at 14PSI without a fuel pressure riser (fmu, pressure reg, etc...) with the 50lb injectors. His injector duty cycle reached 95% at 2.1 bar (just a wee bit over 30 psi), so we didn't push any further (detonation at 30psi isn't very forgiving :) ). I have only done 1/8 in San Diego (8.9 ET, embarrassing 60ft), but not yet 1/4. I don't think he's dynoed his car yet...i can't wait until he does. I know I'm waiting for a larger fuel system and some means of tuning it before I do go to the dyno (also thinking on a DIY wideband O2 monitoring system).

He also has a larger turbo than me.

Everything else is the same on my car and his:

JWT/Arias pistons 8.5:1 CR, 0.5mm overPauter RodsFelPro head gasketARP head and main studsCustom manifoldJWT railCobra MAF


You don't think who dynoed their car? Your friend? Or jay? Jay dynoed 412 HP and 412 lb-ft of torque to the ground. But he sold his car about 2 months ago.

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EZcheese15 wrote:You don't think who dynoed their car? Your friend? Or jay? Jay dynoed 412 HP and 412 lb-ft of torque to the ground. But he sold his car about 2 months ago.


I meant my friend. :) Would you happen to know how much he sold the car for?

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Pornflakes wrote:I meant my friend. :) Would you happen to know how much he sold the car for?


I don't know the exact price, nor do I know if he wants anyone to know, but I believe it was in the $12-$16k range.

AceInhole
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EZcheese15 wrote:I don't know the exact price, nor do I know if he wants anyone to know, but I believe it was in the $12-$16k range.
Is this the same Jay that now has an S13 with an SR??? I thought it went for 12k, but he kept the wheels.

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EZcheese15
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AceInhole wrote:Is this the same Jay that now has an S13 with an SR??? I thought it went for 12k, but he kept the wheels.


That would be him. Like I said, I honestly don't know what he sold it for. But I know it was within that range that I said.

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matt0941
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Pornflakes wrote:Different sized studs on the main and the head studs. The head studs fasten the block onto the head. The main studs fasten the bottom end (crankshaft onto the block main and main caps...one solid main cap in the case of the KA24DE).


So in that case we are all just talking about head stud kit?

Pornflakes
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matt0941 wrote:So in that case we are all just talking about head stud kit?


For the gasket issue, yes, we were talking about the head studs. However, I would strongly recommend using ARP main studs for the bottom end too while you're at it. It's priceless insurance...

Bill
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I just bought the ARP head and stud kit (I think I bought them from pornflakes). They fit perfect and are beautiful!! I would defiently recomend then to anyone building a KA-T

Pornflakes
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Bill wrote:I just bought the ARP head and stud kit (I think I bought them from pornflakes). They fit perfect and are beautiful!! I would defiently recomend then to anyone building a KA-T


Yep, that was me. I'm glad you like them. :) Thanks for the compliments too.

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matt0941
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Ok see thats the thing. Well I talked to the guys at the link I provided and they were pretty nice (think it was dennis) and gave me a price of $165 for the APR head stud kit.

But why would you recommend the main stud kit if one were to run a stock bottom end?


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