Structure240sx wrote:he wants it for a high compression motor not to raise the compression. search around i thin the company's name is cosmetic, cosmet , something liek that makes a copper type head gasket but its on a group buy of like 50. i think they sitll need some people
Pornflakes wrote:Same here. I've seen over 30psi on a KA24DET with the stock gasket and ARP studs. However, when the engine still had stock bolts instead of ARP studs, the gasket blew at 18PSI... my personal experience.
EZcheese15 wrote:That sounds about like how Jay (PSI240SX)'s car was. He ran ARP studs and stock headgasket. However, I think if you O-ring it with a copper head gasket, it will even be better. Jay still had to replace his head gasket every few weeks it seemed. Although, 30psi will do that to a stock headgasket![]()
Pornflakes wrote:The best combination (reliability and performance considered) in my opinion is a stock or Fel-Pro headgasket with ARP studs (and no o-rings). I say this because I've actually tried: stock gasket + stock bolts, copper gasket + stock bolts + o-ring, stock gasket + ARP studs, stock gasket + ARP studs + o-ring. Just plain stock gasket + ARP studs was by far a better combination than all of the above.
Pornflakes wrote:Actually, Jay told me himself that he used stock bolts and not ARP studs. I think he would've never needed to replace the headgasket had he used ARP studs instead.
o-ring with a copper headgasket is indeed better, but will have very poor sealing against water leakage in the long run (10,000+ miles). Even the best sealants wouldn't seal water for too long. Constant expansion/contraction, temperature extremes, etc... are very harsh on the sealant used on a copper gasket.
The best combination (reliability and performance considered) in my opinion is a stock or Fel-Pro headgasket with ARP studs (and no o-rings). I say this because I've actually tried: stock gasket + stock bolts, copper gasket + stock bolts + o-ring, stock gasket + ARP studs, stock gasket + ARP studs + o-ring. Just plain stock gasket + ARP studs was by far a better combination than all of the above.
EZcheese15 wrote:Oh yeah, I forgot. I've actually helped Jay replace his headgasket before....but I just didn't remember.
So you've tried all those combinations? Wow. That's good to know! I didn't know anyone had tried those combinations before. If you don't mind me asking, what all do you have done? How similar is your setup to Jays? You also said you ran 30+psi...what exactly did you run? I think the most Jay ever pushed was 30psi, but boost was falling off because his turbo was too small. Have you run in the 1/4?
matt0941 wrote:(From ka24de.com)
Whats the difference between sets?
Pornflakes wrote:A friend and I ran 2.1 bar on an almost identical setup as mine. The only difference is that he has 96lb injectors, its respective JWT programmed ECU, and an Apexi s-afc. I have 50lb injectors with a JWT programmed ECU, and no s-afc. I max out at 14PSI without a fuel pressure riser (fmu, pressure reg, etc...) with the 50lb injectors. His injector duty cycle reached 95% at 2.1 bar (just a wee bit over 30 psi), so we didn't push any further (detonation at 30psi isn't very forgiving). I have only done 1/8 in San Diego (8.9 ET, embarrassing 60ft), but not yet 1/4. I don't think he's dynoed his car yet...i can't wait until he does. I know I'm waiting for a larger fuel system and some means of tuning it before I do go to the dyno (also thinking on a DIY wideband O2 monitoring system).
He also has a larger turbo than me.
Everything else is the same on my car and his:
JWT/Arias pistons 8.5:1 CR, 0.5mm overPauter RodsFelPro head gasketARP head and main studsCustom manifoldJWT railCobra MAF
Pornflakes wrote:Different sized studs on the main and the head studs. The head studs fasten the block onto the head. The main studs fasten the bottom end (crankshaft onto the block main and main caps...one solid main cap in the case of the KA24DE).