Park it, sell it, push it, seek charity?

[Jesda]

I think the law says you need EPA certification to handle either one? But you can get 134 off the shelf.

Someone correct me, because I think I'm wrong.

[redmanfx]

My buddy has a set up in his work shop. The R12 looks like it's kept in a small propane tank and is portable. Have no idea what it cost him or how much it is to mainain. I could fing out and let you know tomorrow night.

red

[she11ey]

Here's a quote from autorepair.about.com that I found:

<small>"Gone are the days when you could go to the auto parts store, buy a small recharge kit and a couple of cans of Freon and add it to your system. (Freon is the trade name for the refrigerant R-12 that was manufactured by Dupont). Scientific studies have established the fact that R-12 does damage the ozone layer and the U.S. and many other countries have banned its manufacture."</small>

However... I just checked eBay and spotted an R12 hose and can tapper kit for less than $10. And Wes is right, there are lots of cans of R12 selling on eBay, but most of them include the disclaimer, "high bidder must provide proof of EPA certification." So Jesda might be right... unless the eBay sellers aren't, shall we say, DILIGENT about verifying you.

Red, is your buddy a fugitive from the law?

[she11ey]

... the attached site has tons of A/C compressors...

http://www.car-part.com/

Wow, BBD, that looks like a great resource for used parts. Most of the inventory listings appear to come from junkyard proprietors, so I guess I'd be trading the low cost ($125 to $250) for the risk of unreliability.

I wonder if a/c compressors are ever rebuilt and sold? They're $512 as new OEM parts from everythinginfiniti.com. I guess that's not a whole lot more than the used part, though, if you're taking the grand scheme of the universe into consideration.

I'm still unclear whether the clutch is sold with the compressor. And let's hope I don't have to replace the evaporator, too!

[Jesda]

Old cars arent always worth spending on new parts. When replacing the compressor, even with a used one, make sure its oiled properly. Then, have the whole system flushed and replace the receiver-drier. This prevents old metal shavings and crap from ruining the compressor you just bought.

-Jesda

[squeefoo]

Why was it assumed the alt. was junk? Is the clicking gone? Are the new brakes on? How much did you pay for the Q -is it worth all of this to you? What does the CD display read? Could you take the console out yourself? Has the trans fluid been flushed? Your Q should be made safe and reliable first. A/C work (time consuming) and parts are expensive, you'll soon know- if not already.

[redmanfx]

Red, is your buddy a fugitive from the law?

No, He actually works for the NC DOT. I haven't been able to get a hold of him today, but when I do I will see where he gets his resupply as well.

red

[redmanfx]

Got in thouch with him and he switched to R134. The cans of R12 cost between 28.00 and 32.00 and are going up. Still cheaper with R12 over a year period then doing a conversion. red

[she11ey]

Jesda, good point about the old cars and old parts. Same thing with older women and younger men.

Red, thanks for the follow-through with your friend.

Squeefoo, my what big questions you have!

Regarding the alternator, see my earlier posted inquiry, "Battery dead, could the alarm drain it?" (I don't know how to put a link to that thread here.) Right now it seems fine, but a free assessment at AutoZone showed Bad Diode Patterns not long ago.

Is the clicking gone? Well, there must have been "layers" of noise... after Curtis replaced the pulley in front of the compressor, things got a LOT quieter. I still hear a pulsating rattle when the car is idling, though. There must have been a loud hissing sound on top of that, which is gone.

I will get the brakes replaced within 10 days. Trans fluid might get flushed then, too, if it's not too costly. The a/c repairs won't happen until my client pays me for a web project (hopefully within two weeks).

The CD display is dead, and so, I believe, is the original 10-disc changer that's taking up space in the trunk. Why do you ask?

Could I take the console out myself? If I had the instructions, time and tools, maybe so. Willpower isn't enough.

Last but not least, is it worth all of this to me? That's why I posted this question in the first place, to help me determine the best course of action. Your peers have convinced me that the car is worth too little to sell, and my mechanic has convinced me that the car's health isn't all that bad. Right now my strategy is to try to get her into a safe and reliable condition, as you say, then deal with her aesthetics much later!

[Jesda]

The rattling I assume is coming from underneath. There's a heat shield on the exhaust that can come loose. Most folks just remove it. Its there to prevent a fire in case you park on the grass.

-Jesda

[she11ey]

Are you sure the heat shield isn't to prevent the driver from being incinerated upon re-entry of earth's atmosphere??

Yes, the rattling seems to come from underneath. You are psychic, Jesda.

[squeefoo]

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....28201

This is a link to the console removal process. All you need is a phillips screwdriver and a firm but gentle hand (like making amore). Attached via wire to the joystick thingie (remote commander) there is a button the side of the "controller" (inside and behind the ashtray) don't remember if it says reset or not, when this is pushed it may -hopefully- reset the CD player so you can play CD tunes and not at the mercy of the puppetmasters forcing simplistic music with a constant theme of anger, hopelessness or sorrow into your mind. Whatever happened to love and optimism as musical subject matter?

Narrator: "Just then Squeefoo regains his composure and clicks Submit Reply"

[squeefoo]

On the dash removal you can stop at #13. Yes Diodes require a replacement of the alt.Missed the other thread about the test at AZ.The oxidation is self fixable, not as an regenerative process (?!), others here may have easier ways to deal with that -my methods may prove harsh to the uninitiated. (heh heh heh)

[elwesso]

I actually ripped off one of the cat converter heat shields... Went off an embankment a little steep .... it was on the virge of falling off anyway, so now I cant park on grass or in corn fields.....

[HeavyDuty]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it, it's the condensor (up front, in front of the radiator) not the evaporator (in the dash) that's more of a contributing factor in the system's cooling capability with respect to a R12 vs R134 system.

As I am told, the R134 condensors have larger passages, and a thicker core to dissipate heat better than an old R12 unit.

When I'm moving, my R134 system is as cold as ice, it's those stop & go moments in 90+ heat where its performance is lackluster at best.

If I'd had an option for the "screw the whales' system, I probably would have checked that box, but at sub $100/lb R12 prices to maintain a sub-par (leaking) system, or a used or half :bshake rebuilt R12 compressor, etc. I'd have to say I made the right choice.

[azskygod]

I actually ripped off one of the cat converter heat shields... Went off an embankment a little steep .... it was on the virge of falling off anyway, so now I cant park on grass or in corn fields.....

Bummer. No more crop circles in the Q... You crack me up Wes!

AZSKYGOD

[she11ey]

So, Wes came in for a steep landing on an embankment, and AZskygod is dreaming of crop circles... are you SURE you guys aren't orbiting the planet in your Qs?

Squeefoo, I looked over the steps for removing the console and got jittery just reading it to step four. I don't have the nerve to take this much on just for the slim chance that the reset button will heal my CD player. Yeah, I do miss my music, though. In the meantime, I'll tune in to NPR and listen to the news.

<small>Off-topic note: AZ's avatar reminded me of the fun-but-useless tools from Acme.com. Have you guys ever seen their digital license plate maker? (http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/)</small>

[Jesda]

NPR? Oh no Shelley, FIX YOUR CD PLAYER NOW!

Its not that bad if there's pictures. Heath posted this gem a while ago in the Online Mechanic forum:http://carstereohelp.com/stere...o.htm

Removal guide with photos and all!

[she11ey]

Better get to bed, Jesda, before they start talking about us again...

ped

[squeefoo]

Talking? were gonna watch!!!!!

:dogpile

[Jesda]

Okay okay, all in good fun but lets not scare off the more conservative forum regulars. :pface

[elwesso]

Shelley, that is a possiblity..... You DONT know that I have NOS and how i use it!!

Crop circles are made from the Q going round and round... I love RWD

[squeefoo]

Okay okay, all in good fun but lets not scare off the more conservative forum regulars. :pface

I'm a fiscal Conservative, social Libertarian and I'm offended!I'm calling NARAL, ASPCU, PETA, ACLU, Or.....somebody! I'll get it to the 9th Circuit!I'm disabled too! (acronymically challenged)

Wes: doesn't that kill your balance job when you hit a dead furrow?

[elwesso]

Not with the poly bushings and grandma tires!!

[she11ey]

I've tried to follow Squeefoo's instructions for dismantling the console and resetting the CD player. (Jesda, the photo instructions helped, too.)

I'm pretty pleased with myself for getting this far, but I don't see ANYTHING in this gaping hole that looks like a reset button. Anybody want to offer a clue?

Let's hope the image link works...

[squeefoo]

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....28201

Attached via wire to the joystick thingie (remote commander) there is a button the side of the "controller" (inside and behind the ashtray) don't remember if it says reset or not, when this is pushed it may -hopefully- reset the CD player

AHA! after multiple digressions (mine incl.)Very happy to see you tackle it (I knew you could do it). Does the controller (that which contains readout and selects disc/song function) have a wire bundle going to a box in there? (I hope)Which make of player is this? I hope (again) you didn't take this apart for naught :rolleyes based on my suggestion.Suggestion: While you have all this off... there is a tube to the left of the A/C display with foam around it, right next to the blue connector in your photo. Inside there is a sensor (very fragile) which needs to be clean... if you have a can of keyboard duster that will work. This sensor "senses" the air temp. inside the car, if it is covered with dirt the A/C can't adjust properly. This will help your new A/C system to be at its best. All credit to Wes for this fix.

[she11ey]

Hi, squeefoo... so glad you haven't abandoned me!

It looks like the player is the original Sony 10-disc changer mounted in the trunk. The controller sits in front of the armrest thing, and it appears to have a multicolor flat ribbon of wire coming out of it which attaches to a connector on the stereo. It also has a thick black cable. The controller has not worked since I got the car (nothing shows on its display).

Incidentally, after fumbling around with this yesterday, I looked in the trunk and made a Startling Discovery. I wanted to see if I could follow any wires matching the controller's, so I pulled back the trunk "wall" and found this amplifier (I think). See the picture. Maybe it's part of the problem.

I probably just need to take this to a car audio shop, hmm?

[squeefoo]

It is not mine to abandon you. Ooh boy somebody put kid stuff in there, Yeah now its complicated. Sorry I thought this could be easy. All hope is not lost (not familiar with the OEM Sony) is there a reset button on the changer? a fuse? (anyone else know?) I'll look in my FSM and see. Usually when people screw with stereos it's a hack job (even when "professionally" done). I can hear it now... "Hurry up man, this is takin' waaaayyy too long -dude don't you know how to do anything? -lets get goin' !"

[she11ey]

Yep, found the reset button on the changer. No good. I also dismantled it and found the manual gizmo that ejects the CD magazine. The previous driver must have been a heavy metal fan.

This is taking more time and effort than ANY of us should be spending, so I'm not going to worry about it until I get the other repairs finished... they're much more critical!

Thanks for everything anyway, squeefoo!!

[pito11213]

That amp more than likely means that you no longer have bose speakers so check that out.

It isnt that hard to pull out that amp you just have to trace the wiring. See if all the car speakers are connected to it. That does look like a crappy job and probably done on a saturday morning in one hour at the parking lot at autozone.

I have done amp installations on many cars and they never look like that. If you have a factory bose radio with after market speakers then that is probably why the guy put on the amp. Trying to recreate the sound (futile)

You may be looking at a full stereo replacement.