P1110- the code that wont go away!!

[CanuckQx4]

Hey guys. I have this re-occuring code in my daily driver 2001 Infinity Qx4

P1110: Intake Valve Timing Control

Not to long ago my car was throwing a P1110 and P1135 so I simply replaced both VTC sensors at the front of the engine, and for the hell of it a used crank position sensor off a wrecked pathfinder with less miles.

Now it doesnt throw the code everytime I drive, sometimes not for says since most of my drives are like 10 minutes to work. I do notice it come on more frequent on long highway drives though, more frequent anyways.

Would you guys resort to the solenoid replacement?

I am unsure of its location in the engine bay or if it can just be cleaned or if it is even mt problem

Thanks guys!!

[CanuckQx4]

[Buckshot]

I would check oil and oil presure and replace the valve if all that checks out

[CanuckQx4]

How can I check oil pressure on my engine?

The oil level is fine and clean new oil

[SteveTheTech]

You need an oil change.







That code sets when you have no oil pressure. You have no oil pressure because you have no oil. How long has it been since your last oil change?
If not that long is the answer was/is there a leak?

[CanuckQx4]

Ive had the code through multiple oil changes though. My last oil change was maybe 800 miles ago.

I do notice the oil pressure light stays on for about 1 second when I start the car. Im quite sure the oil level is good though, I will find a flat place to park and check again though, there definetely is no leak as I park in the same spot everyday and would have noticed Id presume.

Maybe I should switch to thicker oil?? Last oil change I believe I put in 5W30 (4liters) and a little bit of lucas oil treatment.

No chance it could be the solenoid?

[SteveTheTech]

Ive had the code through multiple oil changes though. My last oil change was maybe 800 miles ago.

I do notice the oil pressure light stays on for about 1 second when I start the car. Im quite sure the oil level is good though, I will find a flat place to park and check again though, there definetely is no leak as I park in the same spot everyday and would have noticed Id presume.

Maybe I should switch to thicker oil?? Last oil change I believe I put in 5W30 (4liters) and a little bit of lucas oil treatment.

No chance it could be the solenoid?

If you were lucky your oil would have been low....that means there is something causing no or low oil pressure to get to the top of the front cover meaning there is nothing available when the solenoid is actuated. The reason I say that is primarily due to the fact that there is a whole host of Intake timing control timing related codes if the solenoid is not working it would most likely be indicated by a different code.

You best bet would be to have it professionally evaluated. You have a unique problem Google cannot (as of the time this is posted) fix.

Your truck needs help.

[CanuckQx4]

Could I bother you for the part number and location for the solenoid? And is there 2 of them?

Should I check oil pressure with an aftermarket gauge at a certain location?? Possibly try thicker oil to see if it makes a difference??

Not to bandaid the problem, but to further diagnose. I dont have the money to give it to a professional at the moment as my wife is out of work and I just couldnt budget it.

Ive had this code for a very long time. Id just like to see it gone. I did verify again that I do have a fine ammount of oil in the car, a little to much actually

[CanuckQx4]

And you mentionned having other codes being thrown and thats why this could be a big fix. The car DID throw P1135/P1145 (or whatever the cam sensor codes are I forget, and I changed those sensors last year (2 at front of engine), and those codes went away.

I just never diagnosed this one, as like I said I am not very rich lol. And just until recently got my own scanner and could scan it whenever I pleased

[Buckshot]

Yes there r tw solenoids one for each bank. Bank 1 is passangers side. I think they are dealer only items and you could try one since you have no money to have a pro to look at it. But you could be wasting your money also.I would take the oil test at the oil sending unit. How long have you had the truck? How often do u change oil?I have seen valves cause issue but can usually see that with Nissan scan tool. But have seen alot of these engines slugged up from lack of maintenance

[CanuckQx4]

Ive had it since 60k miles, It now has 120k miles. And I change my oil and filter every 4k miles max, and Ive seafoamed the engine twice since Ive had it

[SteveTheTech]

I'm still scratching my head on where to go next, I cannot keep your symptoms and concerns straight. Do me a favor and right down everything that is wrong. I keep going back between this thread and the other one with the intake timing code. If you have anything else driveablility wise, lay it out. What is the recent repair history of the vehicle.

I have a feeling we are missing something so lets start again with all the information.

We will use your thread for this, instead of continuing to thread jack.

[CanuckQx4]

Hmmm ok I'll start with the drive ability problems since that is what is bugging me the most. The car seems to have a slight mind of its own when starting, in warm weather it was great, but now that its cold, sometimes it seems to want to crank for a few seconds before kicking over, but runs fine and smooth once doing so. It also is incapable of going full throttle, the car downshifts and revs, but doesnt go near as fast as it used to, goes very slow thru the rpm band.

It is throwing a P1110 and P1165 and P1130

Recent maintenance involved a brand new radiator, thermostat, hoses. I also removed the upper intake manifold to tighten the power valve screws after reading the sticky in the pathfinder forum about our motors eating those screws. The screws were loose so Im glad I did it, but then I believe it cause those error codes. I also replaced a leaky oil cooler o-ring right above the alternator, but that was straight forward.

Ive also replaced all of the vacuum lines, after reading that clogged vacuum lines was a common problem for the swirl valve errors, but they did not go away. I do have one vacuum line on my engine, that is currently plugged, as it is supposed to go to the bottom of the factory air box, but I have an aftermarket intake system with K&N filter

You can see the line connected to the bottom of the airbox in this picture, and where it connects on the engine, that is the line I had plugged about 3" after it leaves the engine with just a dab of silicone in the hose end.

Dont mind the arrows, they came from someone elses thread


I recently read a thread that the Maxima MAF part number 22680-2Y001 was a direct drop in replacement for the 01 Qx4, and even though mine had no issues, other than a not so smooth idle. I decided to try it out instead of just cleaning my oem sensor, since my the sensor had 110k miles on it. It did not work as planned, the car throws a P0100 on long straight drives and goes into limp mode. SO I think Im going to switch back to the oem sensor and just clean it, that may fix my full throttle aswell perhaps??

Ontop of all those problems, I decided I wanted some gauges to monitor, I had a coolant temperature gauge and an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge from my other car. Both installed after all these problems incured. I wanted to check fuel pressure as the car seems to start better and not crank as long if I prime the system for a few seconds before starting the car, so I figured my pump may be failing, but the gauge shows 40psi at idle, and slightly increases when I rev the engine in park. The coolant temp sensor seems to show my car never gets up to operating temp if Im driving, while driving it stays around the 110* mark, if I let it idle it takes about 30 minutes to get to 160* (mind you im in canada and its very cold) but I thought the temps would be higher.

A few things I feel I need to do are reset the ecu entirely (the only method I know of is disconnecting the battery for 12 hours), possibly change the oil a few times in short intervals to ensure I have perfect clean oil, as you mentionned my oil looking like it had fuel in it. And I suppose put the factory MAF back in.

[CanuckQx4]

I also flushed the engine 3 times today to get the oil looking PERFECT, I had some cheaper motomaster oil I was never going to use so I just ran 8 liters of that through and then a fill with my regular oil, that first batch did look pretty black, second was noticeably much better but I did it one more time for good measure

Havent driven it yet, but Im assuming it hasnt resolved the P1110, but it may have

[SteveTheTech]

Ok that was perfect- there are several little details that stick out to me.

The P1165 is a swirl control solenoid fault.
-Here is a little background on that solenoid.

The swirl control valve control solenoid valve responds to signals
from the ECM. When the ECM sends an ON (ground) signal, the
solenoid valve is bypassed to apply intake manifold vacuum to the
swirl control valve actuator. This operation closes the swirl control
valve. When the ECM sends an OFF signal, the vacuum signal is
cut and the swirl control valve opens.

Operating parameters.
SWRL CONT S/V I Engine speed: Idle
Engine coolant temperature is between 15°C (59°F) to 50°C (122°F).
ON
Engine coolant temperature is above 55°C (131°F).
OFF

I have seen several of the small solenoids fail, they can receive the signal but be internally frozen. I would remove the one (with the arrow in your picture, coincidence I think) and power it with a 12v power source and see if the air comes out of the appropriate lines.



As for as your solenoid issues. You could very well have a dead solenoid. Without being able to view the actual cam position we are only going to be able to shoot in the dark. Even with a multimeter your ability to diagnose this concern any farther is not looking too promising. If you have oil pressure and oil, power to the solenoid than you are pretty much done.

I would think about getting a solenoid, but be forewarned I am personally about 75% certain on that.

The reason you cannot floor the car and the P0100 are almost certainly connected. If something is truly compatible it will more likely than not have the same part number. If there is a big price difference there is most likely a reason. Dropping in a MAF without resetting your Idle Volume Learning is kind of an exercise in futility. Without a Nissan scanner you will have to perform the manual relearn procedure.

Idle Air Volume Learning

DESCRIPTION

“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
I Each time IACV-AAC valve, throttle body or ECM is replaced.
I Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

PRE-CONDITIONING

Before performing “Idle Air Volume Learning”, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
I Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
I Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 99°C (158 - 210°F)
I PNP switch: ON
I Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger
Without CONSULT-II

1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown), then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
8. Wait 20 seconds.
9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the
result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the NOTE below.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within specifications.
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed M/T: 750±50 rpm
A/T: 750±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±5° BTDC
A/T: 15°±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
NOTE:
If idle air volume learning cannot be performed successfully,
proceed as follows:
1) Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2) Check PCV valve operation.
3) Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air
leakage.
4) Adjust closed throttle position switch and reset memory.
(Refer to Basic Inspection, EC-103.)
5) When the above four items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable. Check and eliminate the cause of the problem. It is
useful to perform “TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS — SPECIFICATION VALVE”, EC-136.
6) If any of the following conditions occur after the engine
has started, eliminate the cause of the problem and perform “Idle air volume learning” all over again:
I Engine stalls.
I Erroneous idle.
I Blown fuses related to the IACV-AAC valve syste

[CanuckQx4]

I did perform the idle air volume relearn test after installing the MAF and my new cold air intake and it worked great, brought the idle from 1100rpm to a perfect 750rpm. Ive heard the maxima MAF is a direct drop in, based on this thread, but since my OEM maf wasnt throwing any errors, I suppose I'll just put it back in after buying a MAF cleaner today.

post5079262.html?hilit=maxima%20maf%202 ... r#p5079262

I bought this specific sensor, and Mark from nissan of cheseapeake verified that it should be a drop in working sensor for my car, but offerred me a refund since I was having problems with it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123


About testing the swirl valve solenoid, basically from what Im reading there I let the car idle, pull the vacuum hose that comes off the swirl valve where it connects to the engine, and when I touch terminal 1 with power there should be vacuum sucking in at the end of the hose, pull the power source off and the vacuum should stop. Correct?

And you still think the solenoid could be faulty somehow even though it was moving/clicking when I gave it 12V from the battery?? I was unable to find the appropriate part number for the passenger side solenoid, hoping its a part that costs less than the $200 region.

I will definetely buy some MAF cleaner and put the old MAF back in tonight, and preform the test on the swirl valve before I head to work.

Do you recomend I reset the ECU? And how would you recomend I do that with the consult II

Thank you!!

[SteveTheTech]

I think your getting close with the swirl control diagnosis. It is pretty straight forward.
You might want to check your vacuum diagram to make sure your connected correctly.

As far as your timing advancing solenoid issue. I'm pretty much stumped. There are a few things that could cause this. It seems to me like you are quickly ruling them out as ok.

Sure looks like you did some homework on the MAF, so much for an easy fix.

As you quickly rule out the easy things we are ending up back a point A again, with a handful of problems and nothing obviously wrong with your truck.

When you are researching remember 01 was a half year so some parts will fit others will not.

[Chuck Tribolet]

I've had P1110/P1135 for several years. The log in the ECU indicated that it would happen between about 1500 and 2300 RPM and
full throttle. So I avoid doing that, and that helps. And switching from 5W30 to 10W40 helps. I still get it, and for a while could
keep it away most of the time. Now, at 189,000 miles, it's on most of the time.

My theory is that with the high mileage, the bearing clearances have opened up and it's not getting full oil pressure until higher
RPM.

Chuck

[SteveTheTech]

I've had P1110/P1135 for several years.
My theory is that with the high mileage, the bearing clearances have opened up and it's not getting full oil pressure until higher
RPM.

Unlikely it probably has a clogged filter screen or a failed solenoid.

A proper diagnosis would have answered the question years ago.

Lucky for you you do not have a new VQ35 or VQ37, when they run low on oil and throw a P1110 the cam sprockets usually require replacement.

[CanuckQx4]

Can you confirm I am doing this test right Steve.



I turned on the car and let it idle for a few minutes while I prepared a test wire, just a simple 14 gauge speaker wire about 3' long. One lead to the battery positive, and one to the battery negative. I disconected the green swirl valve connector and held it just like in the pic and also the vacuum hose just like you see in the pic.

There was no vacuum on that hose with the car idlingblue arrow

I put the ground lead into the right side of the connector, and then as I touched the positive lead to the left side of the connector red arrow I got a few sparks, more than the standard "just made contact" spark, but I inserted the lead anyways. I then checked for vacuum at the end of that hose and still had none, no change in the cars idling condition though

BUT, when I went to start the car 30 minutes ago on my way to work, it wouldnt start, cranked and cranked. I checked the fuses and sure enough I popped the 10amp ENG CONT in the fuse box in the cabin. Car started fine after replacing that, but I had to go to work and couldnt test again.

Am I doing the test correct??

Also any input on reseting the ECU entirely? I left the battery negative disconnected almost 24 hours and it still did not reset the P1110 error so Im thinking there is more to the reset than just disconnecting the ground of the battery. I also highlighted the only vacuum hose that does not go where it is supposed to with the purple arrow that clear line is just plugged and is the one that is supposed to go to the bottom of the intake

Thanks again Steve, really appreciate it

[SteveTheTech]

You stuck something INTO that plug? (Red arrow)



I think you combined two tests. The connector in your hand is the harness and the green piece the the part you need to supply power and ground to and check vacuum. The connector in your hand is where you check for power. The ground is supplied by the ecm.

What I think you might have done is actually short out your engine control computer

Has the light come back on yet?
How is the truck running?

[CanuckQx4]

Ya I put a few strands of exposed speaker wire into each of those terminals where the red arrow indicates. So what Im really supposed to do is put power and ground to the green connector still attached to the engine in this pic? I screwed that up

I didnt see a test to check for power at the harness at the red arrow I highlighted, should I also be testing to see if that is getting voltage or such at terminal 1 with the ignition on/car running?

The light for the swirl valve has not come back on yet, but Ive only driven like 40km this week, it threw P1110 again though. I actually have the battery disconnected right now overnight so I can install a new amplifer tomorrow and Im going to try this test again, aswell as I think my coolant temp sensor may need replacing, even if I leave the car for 4 hours and come back and turn the ignition to "ON" the temp needle jumps to 3/8 ths of the way up the gauge, and raises to H while driving after 10 minutes. Im also going to do a proper idle air volume relearn.

The truck runs great for daily operation, but I still cant go full throttle, car idles and drive around town no problem, but not being able to floor it bothers me. I havent driven far enough to see if its going to throw another MAF code. I cleaned the oem old maf and put it back in inplace of the maxima replacement sensor I said I bought. Hopefully I have better luck when I start it up and do the tests tomorrow

Im thinking a fauly coolant temp sensor could be the cause of some of these drive ability problems

[SteveTheTech]

It looks like the vacuum line you have plugged is actually the signal line to the swirl control sensor. After going back and forth with another QX4 engine picture it finally dawned on me. The swirl control code has to be caused by a lack of signal vacuum to open the secondary throttle plate (screws you tightened).

What you really need to do is figure out if your engine temperature is really climbing that high. If it is it might explain the bubbling in the coolant bottle you talked about a while back.

[CanuckQx4]

Ive confirmed with the diagram the one I have pugged, and by other peoples pictures, that the one I have plugged goes to the bottom of the intake box under the filter, which picture did you see that showed otherwise?

My engine temp definetely isnt climbing that high, I have an aftermarket temp gauge and the temps never go over 140* while driving/idling, but its also very cold out

I dont have a problem with the coolant "bubbling" in the overflow, it just gets pushed in there it seems a little at a time but the last 2 times I checked the level was good, but I think I have air in the system still, you recomended a vacuum coolant system off amazon to make it trouble free to fill coolant, and I bought it.

Its snowing about 6" today, so Ive got the clean the cars and driveway and hope it stops snowing before I can do any of these tests today. Thanks again!



Im going to do that test tomorrow morning, cleaned the garage so I can finally get the thing into some heated space to do some good work

[CanuckQx4]

I just did the test on the coolant temp sensor, and I do infact have 4.8V at that probe point It says the next step is to:



Then I went to the next test which was to check continuity between terminal 2 and ground. Put the positive probe in the test slot of terminal 2, and the negative probe to my battery ground. I got .3ohm resistance

[SteveTheTech]

Looks like your ground circuit is good. I think the QX4 uses uses a compound ground that includes several engine sensors mounted to the timing cover.

5 volt power supply is ok.

What you should have done there was use both leads on the male ends of the other end of that blue connector and measure the resistance value of the sensor. There is a linear chart to cross it with in the book.

So far looks like the sensor should be the issue.

[CanuckQx4]

Assuming the sensor is infact bad at this point, I couldnt find any procedure to actually change it. Its only $38 at the dealership so I will just buy it there. But I cant even physically SEE the sensor, or even feel it (probably because I dont know what Im feeling for)

Would I probably need to remove the upper or entire intake manifold to get access?

Could you give me a pointer on resetting the ecu entirely and clearing it? I had the battery disconnected for over 12 hours last night and hit the brakes a few times, and still had a P1110 when I first fired it up.

[SteveTheTech]

I'm on my way to work so pardon the lack of picture.

Both the coolant sensor for the gauge and computer are located on the coolant crossover tube on the rear of the engine. You will need to pull both upper and lower plenums and maybe all three pieces. You still might have to struggle to get at it. I remember the first repair of this sort I had performed took me about 10 hours and that was with ideal conditions....
Good Luck.

[CanuckQx4]

Well thanks for replying even when your busy. Doesnt sound to great on the change out of this temp sensor though, there is more than one temp sensor back there ?

Id love to hear a sure set way to clear the ecu without a consult II

[SteveTheTech]

Id love to hear a sure set way to clear the ecu without a consult II

Ha you have asked for that for a while and I've looked everything else up but that.

You have a generic scanner don't you?

If so deleting the codes there is the only process for the ECU memory.