P1110- the code that wont go away!!

[CanuckQx4]

Found the short, the retaining bolt for the middle cylinder coil pack was pinching the harness. Looked harmless from above and didnt look pinched but pulled the bolt and the harness up, cut away the squeezed area of wire loom, sure enough, exposed/smushed wire. Cut that little area out of the length, solderred and heatshrinked together.

Turned the key... gauge down... yay!

I didnt drive the car, but I consider that one solved. I dont know if that would affect P1110 or P1165 though. Pretty happy though not gonna lie

[CanuckQx4]

Darn P1110 and swirl valve CEL's are still there. And I had some open road to see if the car would take to some full throttle... no dice, still falls on its face after its downshift. I guess the swirl valve may not be openning and its not getting enough air?

I'll probably end up making a video to show how the car reacts to full throttle on my next drive, figure it may be beneficial

[CanuckQx4]

I got the idea from this thread, which shows the exact same symtoms (except my car is throwing a CEL) that this may cure my full throttle problem. He solves his problem with explanation at the end of page 2, but limited detail

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfind ... -here.html

I was attempting to lube the swirl valve actuator arm and clean it best I could with the very limited window at the front of the engine.



I noticed though, that arm does not move over to the stopper pin while revving the car in park. Should it be moving once it passes 3200rpm?

Thats what I got from the manual but I dont know which position is open or closed or how it should be behaving, today was the first time I even noticed that viewing window

[SteveTheTech]

Props on checking one off the list.

You should be able to watch the intake bypass runner open when the engine is revved. If it is not working, there is an issue. Your best bet would be to see if you can get it to work by using intake vacuum to operate the valve. Follow the hose up to the solenoid and find a vacuum line (with the truck idling). If you apply vacuum somehow and the valve moves you will need to get the operation of the solenoid.

Restricted solenoids are not at all unheard of.

Maybe we can get you down to the intake code this week.

We'll have you going well by the time everything thaws.

[qship96]

At what point do you just hand it over to the professionals at the dealer who can diagnose/fix the problem in a timely manor and put the issue to bed?

[CanuckQx4]

At what point do you just hand it over to the professionals at the dealer who can diagnose/fix the problem in a timely manor and put the issue to bed?

I find that a little insulting myself. But with the quality help Im getting from Steve, and actually learning how these things are diagnosed, and Im starting to catch on how to decifer the FSM and Im saving big money, and learning most nooks and crannies of my car are well worth the wait, the car is also perfectly driveable at this point.

I also prioritize the fact that putting food infront of my son is more important than diagnostic fees and shotgunning parts at a dealership which may not even resolve the problem, if you read the link I posted a few posts ago, the customer paid $1800 over 4 visits to the dealer and his problem was not resolved... but thats enough about that.

Props on checking one off the list.

You should be able to watch the intake bypass runner open when the engine is revved. If it is not working, there is an issue. Your best bet would be to see if you can get it to work by using intake vacuum to operate the valve. Follow the hose up to the solenoid and find a vacuum line (with the truck idling). If you apply vacuum somehow and the valve moves you will need to get the operation of the solenoid.

Restricted solenoids are not at all unheard of.

Maybe we can get you down to the intake code this week.

We'll have you going well by the time everything thaws.

Thanks Steve, couldnt do it without ya!!

I did check again after lubing the mechanism a little with the truck idling and manually revving to above 3000 that indeed nothing is moving in that actuator area.

I then pulled the vacuum line off of the solenoid check valve, and confirmed there was vacuum, was quite strong vacuum sucked my thumb in no problem, heres where I checked first, on the drivers shock tower where my finger is kind of pointing



Then I followed the source of that vacuum line, comes in above the green connector to the right, I checked for vacuum also on the one that does a tight U to the left of the connector, all had strong vacuum. This may or may not matter but the clear line in the picture is the one that is plugged about 2" out of view of the camera, I pulled that line off aswell and checked for vacuum at the nipple, but there was none. But that line is supposed to go to the bottom of the intake box so I dont believe it should have vacuum




I was a little confused as to what you wanted me to apply vacuum to to get the assembly to open/close, but I figured you wanted me to try that only if I didnt have vacuum at the check solenoid on the drivers strut tower.

[CanuckQx4]

Car threw a P1130 today aswell after 100 miles of driving without reseting the ecu, also seems to be Swirl valve control related

[CanuckQx4]

bump, Id love to get this actuator arm moving again and get some life back in this VQ

[SteveTheTech]

Oh hai,

Sounds like the solenoid is stuck to me.

[CanuckQx4]

I can feel something inside of it "clicking" when I manually move the actuator with the car off

Dont know if that means it isnt stuck though

[SteveTheTech]

Are you supplying power and ground to the two terminals on the solenoid? That is the only way to activate the solenoid.

What's clicking?


Is the hose above your left hand connected.

This is the solenoid you need to supply power and ground to. If that clicks and moves internally your solenoid might not be the suspect.
After that you need to check and make sure all of your vacuum lines are connected properly.

[CanuckQx4]

Oh ok I thought the first picture was the solenoid in question, I didnt know that black "box" that you posted just above this was even a solenoid. I did apply power and ground to the green plugs male terminals on my lunch, and something was clicking, but it sounded like it was coming more towards the intake manifold, I didnt have a spare hand to feel what was clicking, I'll make a better test wire with connectors that can hold onto the male pins so I can feel around

I have made sure all the vacuum lines are good, correct places, brand new hose. Except that one which is capped which used to go to under the intake box, but I guess I'll bite the bullet and thread a 4mm barb fitting into the end of my K&N filter so it is in the same place as the oem and can be assured thats not causing any of these troubles.

How can I "make" the actuator move? Id like to peek through that hole and see the arm move

Thanks again steve

[SteveTheTech]

The click should be from the green solenoid. Nothing else will work as all that solenoid does is direct vacuum from Point A to Point B.

EC-452 is where you need to go for the best breakdown of what you need to do.

I'm not sure where the vacuum line went but we are missing one from somewhere.

[CanuckQx4]

It was indeed the green solenoid clicking

I knew where the vacuum line came from (bottom of intake box under the filter) so this morning I bought some 4mm barb fittings and tapped them into my K&N filter end.

I havent driven the car yet, but I have a 100 mile round trip tonight so that should give me good indication if Ive got some power back lol, and what codes what to rear there ugly heads.

[CanuckQx4]

... my god Steve... my car is alive again, this whole time a $4 barb and hose was withholding 100 ponies from me lol

This whole time I was confused and thinking that the solenoid on the shock tower was what wasnt getting adequate vacuum, until you mentionned that there was the green solenoid directly behind what I was applying power to and making "click", the capped vacuum hose is what was feeding that I suppose

I literally just had the most fun Ive had with this Qx4 in a long time, sounds like a damn monster on full throttle with this new intake and exhaust

I suspect this may clear my swirl valve codes.

If only P1110 was this easy!! Silly me

[CanuckQx4]

I figure I should also mention I revved the engine while it was in park above 3000rpm quickly and did not notice any movement in the view hole to the swirl valve actuator arms. I also threw a P1131 while idling but I think that may be because I started the car with the green solenoid harness plug disconnected.

[SteveTheTech]

Well that's great. We're getting somewhere now

By spring you'll have all the cel issues cleared up.

I had a similar issue with my J when I first got it. One half of my engine had no intake cam adjustment was not working becuase the connector was plugged into the knock sensor. I actually killed two birds with that one, but I had no fun codes to point me there it was mostly coincidence that I found it.

[CanuckQx4]

100km and no check engine light, good sign.

It seems to have trouble kicking over on startup though, always seems to crank for 2 extra seconds before starting. I tried doing an idle air relearn but dont know if it took as car had trouble restarting in the middle of the test.

Is there possibly a 2001.5 FSM out there?? Nico seem to only have the 2001, figured maybe theres another 2001.5??

Other than that, no codes is great!