Overrev = motor death

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
gawdzilla
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so, i missed a power shift yesterday into third, and spun a rod bearing.

i'm not really sure if it was oil starve up top, or just rpm even though i have a rev limiter...

needless to say i'm pretty blown (more ways than one). back to the graveyard (again) with this RB26...

i'm lightly considering selling my setup. think anyone would be interested? fair asking price? this isn't a FS, just trying to get an idea of what i *could* possibly sell for.

to give an idea, its a mckinney mount kit w/ ds. custom hks/trust downpipe w/ hks gt2530s, stock head reconditioned, pfc/datalogit ems, 550cc injectors, WAS built motor w/ all arp/cometic/wiseco pistons @1mm over, fairly clean wiring harness. made 404 rwhp @18psi (93octane) on very conservative timing..

chassis- clean pearl white SE s14 chassis w/ tein flex coils, tomei diff, new rear subframe, custom fmic piping, autometer gauges (boost/oiltemp/press/water temp), stock interior no radio, heat working, ps working
Modified by gawdzilla at 3:03 PM 9/18/2006


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Carl H
Posts: 5985
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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sucks to hear man, what gen rb26 and what kind of oil pump...should consider tapping the head for external drains, at high rpms silly oil gets into the head.might be interested in the twins...how much would you part with them for?

cvc9216
Posts: 304
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 5:26 pm

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ahhhh wtf you blew it up!?

jrb92se
Posts: 1352
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Car: 1989 Nissan S13 coupe

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that sucks balls that really sucks balls and hairy ones at that; sorry to hear. but dont sell it.. buy a new long block ??? if possible.

gawdzilla
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Carl H wrote:sucks to hear man, what gen rb26 and what kind of oil pump...should consider tapping the head for external drains, at high rpms silly oil gets into the head.might be interested in the twins...how much would you part with them for?
late r32, came with the good oil pump drive, oem oil pump b/c i didnt get restrictors so i didnt want my head filling with extra oil...

at the time i built my motor, the upgraded pumps and restrictors were crazy expensive and unproven. now that the swap is so common and ppl stock parts in the states i'd probably do it again.

not really sure if it was just rpm or rpm leading to oil starve. i do have an oil pressure gauge which is sort of useless since you cant really stare at that thing when driving WOT

i'll let you know about the twins if i decide i WTS.

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krayton
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crank collar ok?

i thought the oem pump could still shoot to much oil to the head. from what i understand these oil problems are with any RB high hp setups

noodl35
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2003 5:58 pm

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Sorry to hear that man, first you wreck the s14 now this happens? Hope you get your money back to start a new project? Maybe i'll help you, im interested in the mckinney mounts and driveshaft. Will your downpipe work with stock twins? Maybe interested in the engine harness but mine is r33 so it may be different. Let me know

[email protected]

AIM: noodl35

-David

kjlindgr
Posts: 214
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 3:39 am

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Sorry to hear about your loss dude. I feel your pain. I spun a rod bearing in my RB26 a while back and scored so many journals I needed a new crank.

Did you miss 3rd and hit 1st again?

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rb26tommy
Posts: 126
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Car: nissan 240sx s14 rb26dett

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that sucks man. if u want to sell any thing hit me up. i am willing to buy some of your parts.

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Kansei240sx
Posts: 1356
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Car: S13 - RB25 Circuit car
71 240z - street/track day car
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Perfect tip and example of why to never power shift ever.

Sorry about your loss, i'd commit Sepuku if i destroyed an RB26.

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BoostFab
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Car: S13cp, S13fb, S14z
Location: Nismo Land
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ouch~ sorry to hear about your lost. did you check all your bearing clearance? did it seat correctly during break in period?!

gawdzilla
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to answer some questions...

yes, my dump/downpipe setup will fit stock turbos, since the gt2530s are stock replacements. it will also fit directly and bolt to an s14 catback. as far as i know it will also fit with s13. it may not bolt directly to an s13 catback but everything should clear. pretty clean setup IMO... notice how the front dump swings around the outside of the steering column.. 2.75" all the way through w/ even flow on both sides. All custom work and stainless, hacking up top quality aftermarket parts...http://i8.photobucket.com/albu...9.jpgh ... bu...s.jpg

not sure if the bearings "seated properly" but they were miced by the machine shop, and i double/triple checked all my clearances w/ my own mics w/ the nismo bearings before assembly. broke in the motor properly as well. it ran strong, and i am beginning to suspect the overrev led to oil starve?

for those interested in parts, hit me up via email in my profile, i don't want this to become a FS thread... my main concern is to why my motor died b/c i dont want this to happen again on my next build IF i decide to pursue it...

ccasey645
Posts: 116
Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:06 pm
Car: 1989 240sx ca18det swap

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Ive personally over revved a motor before. Through a rod strait though the block because of too much centrifical force, but it wasnt a gear miss it was just over revving. Id say pull the pan an look or drain the oil and look for metal. The motor was a stock ga16de sentra motor i guess the big end bolts were the weakest part of that setup and the first thing to go. I doubt oil starve, but probibly a big end bearing thats my .02

noodl35
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nice downpipe, yeah i do like the fact that it swings outwards of the steering column unlike the notch method used by mckinneys. I emailed you

-David

s14 2510's
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Car: 96 s14 rb26 2510's fully built, 91 s13 sil truck rb20 in works

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that sux. Just fix what you have then sell it. Pull the engine put it on a stand. Get crack turned and get some new bearings. My 26 still dosnt run kuz im spending the time to make it reliable around 700hp. Good luck on the rebuild.

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rbsileighty
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT

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Tis the season to kill RB's... sorry you joined the down'd RB club bud

I might be interested in the motor (longblock+ accessories) and wiring... maybe the trans... don't need turbos or anything

To keep this from being a FS thread... email me at [email protected] if you want

gawdzilla
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yea i want to give it a week or 2 to re-evaluate before i make a decision. a couple options which are floating through my head now...

1) sell everything including the car as a "turnkey shell"2) part out and sell everything3) part out my current turbo/inj setup and rebuild for a single and go bigger4) part out just the longblock for myself to use in an rb30/26 hybrid which would involve at a minimum selling my downpipe setup since the 30 sits higher..5) rebuild back to stock..?

before i do any of this i really want to know what killed my motor and do some investigation

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eh?
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Throw a long block in there while you rebuild that built motor. IMO right now is not a good time to sell this type of car. Summer's past and all the rich kids are back in school...

If you've got the cash your car is the perfect candidate for a RB30 long block.

gawdzilla
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eh? wrote:Throw a long block in there while you rebuild that built motor. IMO right now is not a good time to sell this type of car. Summer's past and all the rich kids are back in school...

If you've got the cash your car is the perfect candidate for a RB30 long block.
word... been reading up a bit on the 30 block... not sure where to snag one on the cheap though. i'd consider just doing a stock 30 longblock and keep my 26 on the side for a build. only thing you really need to do seems to be the timing belt mod.

most likely scenario will be me parting various parts of the car to support a single turbo. twins were definitely kickass while the motor lasted though...

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rbsileighty
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Sounds like you had a nice setup... if I were you and had the $ to do it... put it back together with what you had

gawdzilla
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heres the setup, i made a TW FS thread in the cars section zerothread/198489

RB20DETodd
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Car: 92 Nissan S13 coupe SE RB20DET

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eh? wrote:Throw a long block in there while you rebuild that built motor. IMO right now is not a good time to sell this type of car. Summer's past and all the rich kids are back in school...

If you've got the cash your car is the perfect candidate for a RB30 long block.
cant make money off these cars we drive better just part it out if anything

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DeatschWerks
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Sorry to hear. Keep us updated on what you find when you tear it down.
Modified by DeatschWerks at 10:02 AM 9/19/2006

Bronze MFP
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time for a tomei or mines crate engine

wawazat8402
Posts: 578
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2004 10:08 am
Car: 89 Sil80- RB25DET

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Kansei240sx wrote:Perfect tip and example of why to never power shift ever.

Sorry about your loss, i'd commit Sepuku if i destroyed an RB26.
Every time I race I powershift, never had any problems <knocks on wood>. It does put more stress on the drivetrain, but I believe it usually only shows the next fuse in the powerplant.I guess it just depends on whether the car is a weekend car or your only means of trasportation.

noodl35
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2003 5:58 pm

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I'd take the longblock and expect it definitely for the cause of the problem. So on your next build you will correct the situation. Or get an rb30 block and put the 26 head on. Sell all your longblock parts + downpipe and make money for the rb30 project : ).

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BoostFab
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is the motor (longblock) salvageable? i may be interested

REDLN
Posts: 299
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Car: 95 Nissan 240SX SE

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i would just get another block if your's is no good. getting a rb30 block is $$$ cost more then a 26 block that you could find state side.

Darius
Posts: 4820
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
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How is the block damaged? When you spin a rod bearing, doesn't it just score the rod journal on the crankshaft?

gawdzilla
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the disassembly hasnt happened yet, but as far as I can tell the block should not be damaged. most likely the crank need to be turned and straightened but nothign has shot out of the block.


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