Overheating after replacing new engine

[Driftin115]

I recently dropped in a motor. It overheated and I replaced the thermostat and waterpump. It was fine for a day or so then started overheating again. I think my thermostat is stuck closed again. I am going to replace this again. Does anyone know why this keeps messin up? Any help is appreciated.

[mb_s13]

You did remove the bleeder screw and bleed the system, right?

[Space Monkey]

Sounds like someone has to burp the baby

[IanS]

Sounds like someone has to burp the baby

[480sx]

You have air trapped in your system thats not letting the water flow through your motor as it should. All you have to do to avoid this situation is poor your coolant REALLY slow when your filling the rad. I spend 10-15 min poring coolant, and never have any problems. The KA loves to trap air in the coolant system for whatever reason.

Raise the front of the car into the air as high as you can with a floor jack. Open both the bleeder valve and the radiator cap and start the car. Let it run for 5+ min with both of those things off. After 5 or so min when the waters reached near op temps, top off your radiator and wait for a constant stream of coolant to come out of the bleeder port. Cap it off, then let the car idle for a while with the rad still open and the car jacked up in the air. It also helps to rev the motor to 2-3000 rpms to get the coolant flowing.

[Spinn3r]

You have air trapped in your system thats not letting the water flow through your motor as it should. All you have to do to avoid this situation is poor your coolant REALLY slow when your filling the rad. I spend 10-15 min poring coolant, and never have any problems. The KA loves to trap air in the coolant system for whatever reason.

Raise the front of the car into the air as high as you can with a floor jack. Open both the bleeder valve and the radiator cap and start the car. Let it run for 5+ min with both of those things off. After 5 or so min when the waters reached near op temps, top off your radiator and wait for a constant stream of coolant to come out of the bleeder port. Cap it off, then let the car idle for a while with the rad still open and the car jacked up in the air. It also helps to rev the motor to 2-3000 rpms to get the coolant flowing.

^^^ correct.

[Driftin115]

I did the whole bleeder screw ordeal but I did't wait like you said. We cranked the car, let it run. Poured antifreeze in it till it started coming out, put the radiator cap back on, then took the bleeder screw out, waited a few secs then put it back in.

Also, it runs like crap. When I ease into the gas its fine but when I get on it hard or pin it...it just sucks. It has no power at all. Sometimes it backfires. We moved the distributer over and that helped a little bit. Could it possibly be out of time and this screwing everything else up?

P.S. the motor has been sitting for a while.

[powerline]

have you checked the compression?

[chicos240]

well wally i think you need to do a compression test and a timing check, though id do the compression first since its easier.