one side of the ignitor goes to the computer and the other...?

[callmeweezy724]

you have 3 pins at the coils. labelled + - E. The + is a constant 12v source that is grounded by the ECU (E). The - is a ground for the secondary coil. The primary coil inside the pack is constantly charged until the ECU breaks the ground and forces the coil to arc to the secondary coil, which in turn generates the voltage for the spark.

If you slapped your test light inside the coil and tried to get it to pick up on the spark, it would be seeing well over 20,000 volts.

so basically you're talking about the plug on the coil pack harness that plugs into the coils? If so, I checked those and they are getting power.

[callmeweezy724]

any more advice? would more pictures of my wiring or anything else hope give ideas? Im thinkin maybe somethin needs to be replace but im trying to figure out what it is...anyone?

[Kalypso]

where are you at so far,

somethings are working and other's aren't right?

[callmeweezy724]

Im getting power to my ecu side of the ignitor, the plug that plugs into the coil pack harness, power to each coil pack plug, and power to the crank angle sensor. the only thing im NOT getting power to is the side of the ignitor that tell the coil packs to fire, and the coil packs themselves. Im thinking its my computer maybe? The red light that is on the computer is that suppose to be on? when is it suppose to come on?

I just checked my wiring again, I went and redid my timing, and charged my battery back up. I dont kno what could be wrong. Im thinking maybe something is bad I dont kno what tho. Im still not getting spark!

I jus looked at my fuse box in the engine bay and notice that the ignition coil plug isnt there. I had gotten into an accident and had a new rad support put on...heres a pic..could that be a problem?
Modified by callmeweezy724 at 10:30 AM 7/13/2008

[callmeweezy724]

ok since the ecu sends the ground to fire the coil packs i would think that would be my problem correct? because im gettin power to everything but but the coil pack side of the ignitor and the coil packs. So the ecu isnt grounding for the coil packs to fire which means i have to check my grounds. Does anyone kno which specific ground to check?

I also have a new ecu on the way. Im hoping thats the problem so i can get this thing started.

[duffman1278]

Double check the wiring before you put in the new ECU. You don't want to short out that one as well. Believe me its a PITA but you might want to strip your harness down to check every wire. I did this 3 times! It was annoying, but I did catch something the first and second time.

[Kalypso]

the ECU Light will come on if you enter Diagnostic mode.

- turn the pin counter clockwise to 5 oclock. - turn the key to ACC- quickly turn the ecu pin to clockwise all the way and holf for 2 seconds.- then turn it back to its original position.

the light should turn on and start giving out blink codes.

thats a great way to test if the ECU is working and if its grounded out properly, mine isnt doing this.

It will also tell you what system is causing the problem which is pivotal.

[Hijacker]

Ignition coil relay is a JDM thing for the coil packs. We have a spot left in the fuse box with label, but there's no relay in it.

There shoudln't be power going from the ECU to the ignitor. The power route shoudl be this:battery -> ign switch -> coils -> ignitor -> ecu -> ground.

The ECU is a ground interrupt for the coils. It shouldn't be supplying power to the ignitor. I would make sure you have the ignitor wired up correctly

[Emperor_Tha]

Check the harness near the battery. U should wire the sr "black/red" and "blue/red" to the ka harness black/red

that was my problem when I had no spark

[callmeweezy724]

im pretty sure i have everything wired correctly..im at work right now but when i get home ill take pics of all my wiring and post it so u guys can see if i made any mistakes. This sucks so much..i appreciate you guys helping tho.

[Emperor_Tha]

I thought so too when I did mine. Didnt read it to well I forgot to wire the blue/red wire.

[callmeweezy724]

I have that in as well but i get off work at 6 and ill take pics.

[callmeweezy724]

ok heres some pics of my wiring..and heres a separate pic of my wiring of the blue/red,black/red, and brown wires. I connected blue/red, and brown wires on the sr side of the harness into the black/red and then wired the black/red on the sr side to the ka black/red side so it wont be a lot of wires connected at one time..Will that affect anything? or should i attach them all at one point?im pretty sure its right. I have a sodering iron now so i will be able to soder the wires together i jus need to verify that they are correct first b4 i do so.

[callmeweezy724]

Ignition coil relay is a JDM thing for the coil packs. We have a spot left in the fuse box with label, but there's no relay in it.

There shoudln't be power going from the ECU to the ignitor. The power route shoudl be this:battery -> ign switch -> coils -> ignitor -> ecu -> ground.

The ECU is a ground interrupt for the coils. It shouldn't be supplying power to the ignitor. I would make sure you have the ignitor wired up correctly

isnt this ignitor direct plug in?

[jeking1]

just to help you out a little, we worked on an rb20 swapped s13 and the same exact thing was happening. we had power on one side of the ignitor and the ecu was burned out AND the coil packs were getting power, some of the grounds were reading positive and the ignitor was getting extremely hot. we ended up getting a whole new harness and sure enough, it fired right up and ran perfect. it was a kid that did the harness, so we remade an entirely different one. I would definitely check your harness , it's difficult to spot the problems though, check for burnt wires at the connections.

[callmeweezy724]

there were a couple loose wires when i got it but they were an easy fix i jus wired them back together...im gettin so mad u jus dont kno lol

[jeking1]

hey man, I dug this up for ya, I would just double check everything on the plugs according to this diagram. I use this day in and day out for our swaps, done over 100 sr swaps and all of them run perfect. hopefully this helps out.

http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET....html

[callmeweezy724]

hey man, I dug this up for ya, I would just double check everything on the plugs according to this diagram. I use this day in and day out for our swaps, done over 100 sr swaps and all of them run perfect. hopefully this helps out.

http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET....html

yea thats what i used everything is pretty much straight forward. I dont kno what the **** is going on i kno all my wiring is correct. I jus went and tested the ground on the coilpack side of the ignitor in ohms and it was reading like 3.2 isnt it suppose to be 0 since its a ground?

[jeking1]

should be, I unplugged the coil packs and tested from the ends of the plugs, that way I could see what is actually reaching the coil packs. I can help more tommorow, I can check out some of our cars at the shop and give you the exact reading on all of the wires as far as ohms or volts, whatever.

[Kalypso]

There shoudln't be power going from the ECU to the ignitor. The power route shoudl be this: battery -> ign switch -> coils -> ignitor -> ecu -> ground.

The ECU is a ground interrupt for the coils. It shouldn't be supplying power to the ignitor.

I would make sure you have the ignitor wired up correctly

according to hijacker it makes sense that its a bad ignitor

[callmeweezy724]

so both sides of the ignitor shouldnt be lighting up? because the 4 prong plug on my ignitor lights up but the 5 prong side doesnt.

[Kalypso]

I would think that both should, meaning the current passes through and makes it to the other side.

[callmeweezy724]

but i heard that the other side is only suppose to light up when the car is bein cranked bc that means the computer is tellin the coil packs to fire. If thats tru then the other side should light up when im cranking it which isnt happening..

[Hijacker]

I would cringe if I pulled opena harness and found wires soldered together the way you have yours tied together right now.

I prefer to take me wires, lie the stripped ends together with an overlap and then twist them and solder. Soldering them flat makes it so much easier to get heatshrink on them as well. Which is ultimately what you should use instead of electrical tape. Go to wal-mart. It's cheap. And all you need is a good hair drier or a heat gun to shrink them to shape.

In your picture, what's the extra thin blue wire attached to your black/red wire? It's next to the blue/red.

As far as the ignitor is concerned, the 4 prong side is the coil side of the ignitor. The 5 prong is the ECU side (the 5th pin is a ground) If you pull the plugs and test for power with a test light, you'll get power to the 4 pin plug. If you leave both plugged in and test the wires themselves, you should have power on both sides since the ECU should have the coils grounded at that point.

[callmeweezy724]

I would cringe if I pulled opena harness and found wires soldered together the way you have yours tied together right now.

I prefer to take me wires, lie the stripped ends together with an overlap and then twist them and solder. Soldering them flat makes it so much easier to get heatshrink on them as well. Which is ultimately what you should use instead of electrical tape. Go to wal-mart. It's cheap. And all you need is a good hair drier or a heat gun to shrink them to shape.

In your picture, what's the extra thin blue wire attached to your black/red wire? It's next to the blue/red.

As far as the ignitor is concerned, the 4 prong side is the coil side of the ignitor. The 5 prong is the ECU side (the 5th pin is a ground) If you pull the plugs and test for power with a test light, you'll get power to the 4 pin plug. If you leave both plugged in and test the wires themselves, you should have power on both sides since the ECU should have the coils grounded at that point.

about the wires being twisted together..i didnt even solder them yet. I didnt want to soder them if the wiring wasnt right so i jus twisted them for now and when i got everything working i was going to soder them. I mentioned in this thread b4 that i bought a sodering iron thats how i fixed my ecu. But i will soder them when i get everything right.

As for the ignitor someone in this thread told me that the 4 prong side was the ecu side..and the 5 prong was the coil side..so thats y i figured the ecu wasnt tellin the coils to fire. So maybe my ecu itself wasnt working?

[Hijacker]

That's from the JDM 180SX manual. It left the ground out, but it's pin 3 from the ignitor (5 pin plug)

If you pull the plug for the ECU and test it for power, you're not going to have any. As I've said before, the ECU is a grounding tool for the coils.

If you test the wires coming from the ignitor with both plugs in, you should be able to check for continuity. If you don't have it there, I suggest pulling the ECU and checking the pins on the ECU harness plug. If you still don't, then you can narrow the causes down to continuity breaks or a bad ignitor.

[callmeweezy724]

ok yea i understand the continunity test thing but if both plugs are plugged in where should i test the postive side at? should i shredd a little piece of the wire and test it there?..also i was jus on 240sxmotoring looking for the ecu pinouts to find the ecu ground. I found the different ecu's that match up to the motor sets and it listed this:

E5 is from a 94-96 180sx black top 5 speed

E6 is from a 94-96 180sx blacktop automatic

WC is from a 94-98 S14 Silvia

62 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia 5 speed

61,63 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia automatic

J4 is from a 97-98 180sx Type X 5speed

now if u look in my other thread zer...age=2 my motor is a 93 on the chart is says to use a 62 ecu for a 91-93 and a e5 for 94-96 i have a e5 do you think thats the problem?

[Hijacker]

They're the same. I have an E6 ECU on my manual redtop SR.

The only S13 ECU you have to be worried about are the J4s.

A good test light can pierce the sheathing of a wire, or you can jab it in behind the pin going into the plug. There's a plastic shroud on the back of the plug that can be popped off, which will give you good clear access to the pins while it's still plugged to the ignitor. At least on the CA/Q45 ignitors I can do that. I can't remember if the SR plugs have that removable back plate.

[callmeweezy724]

ooh ok i figure since it was a 93 maybe that would be a problem but guess not..aight ill check wen i get home do i have to have someone crank the car while i test or it should pass threw with the key just in the on postion?

[Hijacker]

The ECU breaks the ground to fire the coils, so those lines should be hot when you turn the key on.