Okay now i'm boosting need help tuning.

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iknowyoulike
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okay how do i tune this sucker? i have the low map set at 2% and high map at 16% rite now is that good? i still have the 270cc i know that florida240sx is running the 270cc as well i don't want to blow this thing up too soon...got the wideband to go rich acouple of time then it went lean..got scared and let off the gas..it showed lean...that cant be good can it plus when i idle i get like 17's is that to high? and i get smoke coming out too blowish whiteish smoke...fuel im hoping...i remember mustangsucks had the same smoking issue..can you guys help me out..i want to feel safe flooring the sucka..


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Craving4Boost
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Car: 91 240sx fastback

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go with 370cc's...how much boost are you running?? dont use those 270 they're crap unless you have a FMU. bluish smoke usually means your burning oil...get a oil restrictor for your turbo its probably getting passed your seal. 17 is a tad high..richen it up a bit

iknowyoulike
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okay i'll throw the 370cc back in first thing tomorrow also gonna soldered the S-afc connections too. and finally run the car to get the A/F numbers down..if i stay off boost could i still drive the car like normal? -27 on low map is that to low for 370cc?

also oil restrictor where can i get one and where does it go?TA004-GT<---this is the part number for the feed line kit i got from JGS.

bruinbear714
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iknowyoulike wrote:okay how do i tune this sucker? i have the low map set at 2% and high map at 16% rite now is that good? i still have the 270cc i know that florida240sx is running the 270cc as well i don't want to blow this thing up too soon...got the wideband to go rich acouple of time then it went lean..got scared and let off the gas..it showed lean...that cant be good can it plus when i idle i get like 17's is that to high? and i get smoke coming out too blowish whiteish smoke...fuel im hoping...i remember mustangsucks had the same smoking issue..can you guys help me out..i want to feel safe flooring the sucka..
Bluish white smoke means you're burning oil, which usually means your piston rings are about to go.

Structure240sx
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bruinbear714 wrote:Bluish white smoke means you're burning oil, which usually means your piston rings are about to go.
and turbo seals are common, make sure your return oil line isnt backed up

put the 370's back in. now that you have the wideband you can make adjustments.

for idle you want the it to read 14.7 (up to 17 and it will stil idle good tho)cruising you want about 14.7 (also up to about 17 will be OK)during these two situations the ecu makes alot of its own adjustments being in open loop o2 sensor operation.

now when you are making boost you want the wideband to be reading 11.0-11.9. anywhere in the 11's is a good starting point

to make the adjustments for idle and cruising go to the low map like you said and find a good number for hte idle (around -27% for the 370's) then set that straight across the low map for all rpms

to adjust for boosting go to the high map. start boosting and watching the wideband. if its running rich (under 11) then you need to lean it out by making the number smaller. when i recently tunned GEO's car with safc and 370's i brought the high map down to about -15% across for a safer tune.

you may want to go to THR point in the settings menu and change it to about 20% low and 40%. these means that under 20% the safc will only run the low map above 40% only the high map and 20.1-39.9% will be a mix of the two maps. the way i came up with these numbers is that the most throttle % for cursiing i get up to is about 17% so the low map stays on and my turbo usually is spooling around 40% throttle when im trying to make boost so at 40% the high map kicks in

iknowyoulike
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structure you always make things easy to read...haha..i'll double check the return line to see if it's backing up..but if the turbo seals the problem where can i get an restrictor?

SloS13
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http://www.tunertoys.com I run one on my turbo civic. Made the smoke magically disappear. You'll need an oil pressure gauge and probably some other fittings to make it work.

iknowyoulike
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THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME OUT...I APPRECIATE EVERYTHING SO SO MUCH...THE CAR IS RUNNING GOOD NOW JUST HAVE TO SOLDER THE WIRES ON THE S-AFC BUT OTHER THAN THAT EVERYTHING SEEMS TO RUN GOOD...THANKS TO EVERYONE..I'LL POST PICS WHEN I GRAP THE DIGI CAM...THANKS GUYS...MORE QUESTIONS WHEN I UPGRADE OR WHEN THIS CRAPS OUT ON ME..THANKS...(SORRY FOR THE CAPS JUST EXCITED)

iknowyoulike
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numbers on wideband:idle at 14-16 cruising 14-16 occiaonal 17'sboost/going to boost 11-13s

SloS13
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sounds good as long as those 13's arent during WOT full bewst/nearly full boost

jmhalder
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Car: base model 95 S14, steeliez, boosted on the T25, going to HY-35, and 650's/N60/walbro/bikirom to han

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well, the first problem is that you went safc, j/k, but seriously it would be worthwhile considering how the safc CANT retard timing. you should consider using a plms daugterboard(s13) or the bikirom(s14)... do ecu tuning, its cheaper and better than safc, and can do every bit as much and then some, check out http://eccs.hybridka.com i met a guy from clubfr.net at this driftday meet at road america, and he's like "dont do safc, this is my third motor in a year", get 370's and an ecu tune, the safc is fine for tuning a little on the fly

*EDIT*alright, i read through your posts, and its an s13, get a daughterboard

iknowyoulike
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but i have base timing retarded to ~16. is this still gonna be a problem..PLMS daugtherboard? humm...i'll have to search that one..maybe in the near future i'll get one..for now S-afc2/wideband/retarded basetiming/370cc

jmhalder
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Car: base model 95 S14, steeliez, boosted on the T25, going to HY-35, and 650's/N60/walbro/bikirom to han

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safc's work, and i still gotta give props to any ka-t... im on my way, maybe by spring-ish

iknowyoulike
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will this restritor work?http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=OILi have feedline number: TA004-GTon here:http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

T25 off of an SR

SloS13
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seems like a simple solution but i prefer to have it adjustable so you can see/adjust exactly how much pressure the turbo is getting.

Structure240sx
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jmhalder the bikirom isnt quite out yet, and should wait a few months if you arent very technically effiecent so others can work out bugs, would be a little more intesntive to install and setup plsu you need some kind of computer, sorry run on sentence

for a setup with a t25 only low boost and decent power levels are in mind. the safc and retarded base timing are perfect

iknowyoulike- this is what you want

http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...=GTBB

S13FX
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A friend of mine whos going to be joining Nico soon, is running really close to 400whp, and his just using, SAFC2, BTM, Water/Methanol Injection. Although he'l probably will be getting a E Ultimate as soon as he breaks the 400 mark.

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Maverick7687
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Just FYI, I think the new Bikirom supports the S13 ECU also. I have an S13 so I have been keeping a close eye on the new one and I am pretty sure I saw S13 KA24DE on the supported ECU list.

Mav

iknowyoulike
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cool guys thanks again Structure....your always a help cant' thank you enough..:P but here's what i've been noticing

when i'm running good a/f ratio building boost and let of the throttle completely the plx reads lean why is that...plus tonight i ran the car at the settings it's at which i ran earlier in the day when it was close to 80 degresss out it ran almost perfect A/f ratio numbers but tonite i ran it at about 50-60 degrees it seems like i had to add more fuel to get the numbers on the plx to get to what it was during the day anyone else experience this?

Structure240sx
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when you let off the gas it goes lean. this is because the stock ecu cuts fuel above 1500rpms while deceleration to save fuel, completely normal

because it got colder out the air got denser. this makes more air going into the engine and needing more fuel

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Maverick7687
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Structure240sx wrote:because it got colder out the air got denser. this makes more air going into the engine and needing more fuel
Not trying to thread-jack or anything just thought I would ask since it came upI am planning on doing a KA-t..Does this mean that everytime I(or anyone else) would have to change fuel settings according to the ambient temp? I have kinda thought about the colder/denser air, but it never crossed my mind about having to change fuel settings to compensate for that.

Mav

iknowyoulike
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yeah i didn't realize this till last night...but i guess there's a reason why the S-afc also have 2 data file so i guess i could run one for the day/hot nights and one for cold nights..?

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sil80drifter
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My #1 setting is for racing 70hp civics, and the #2 is for racing 80hp civics. (The turbo isn't hooked up yet, so I'm N/A) lol

sil80

Structure240sx
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theres only one setting on the safc. there are two maps but one it high and one is low throttle

its not a huge difference in afr's when the temp changes. if you want it to be perfect tho then minor adjustments may need to be made.

iknowyoulike
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haha that's funnysil80.....btw structure so the data file that is listed in the safc that has data1 and data2 are only low maps and high maps?

Structure240sx
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are you using the safcII? if so maybe, i have the safcI but i just tunned a couple cars with the safcII. i jsut set it up like i would an safcI. i have to check that out

S13FX
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Not jack your thread but do you prefer SAFC1 or SAFC2? I know 2 is newer and it's sepsto be better. But im jsut curious on an opinion from someone that tuned with both. Thanks.

iknowyoulike
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I'm using S-afcII structure.. i think there might be 2 data file i could be wrong though. but to answer the question..i think which everone you go with both are good the new one is just a tad bit better..

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GEO
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As structure was saying, the newer safc-2's have finer tuning.. Every 200rpm's rather then ever 500 rpm's. The safc-2 has some more goodies and such, but they both work the same way. Its all aboutstyle really, newer cool hipper, the safc2, old school style nightrider look, safc1. Also, I think the adjustment for afr's for the 30-50 degree weather is going to be like +2% change throughout the high map?

And for the 370cc's injectors, I found that -10% at 1000rpm's (idle ) works perfectly for start-up and idling after warmed up.

iknowyoulike
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yeah that's what i figured out Geo...i added bout +2 more last night and the ratio went back to where it was during the day..i left it like this today and it ran a tad rich but overall it felt good..


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