oil type synthetic really worth it?

[Neil]

I doubt it.

I only use FRAM oil filters on my lawnmower. WIX i think have the anti drinaback, not sure

[Onizuka]

I run mobil 1 15w-50 and im satisifed with it. I tried M1 0w-40 for a month durring the winter. It generally sounded worse, especially durring startup, so I went back to 15w-50.

[DRIFTINIZ]

I run mobil 1 15w-50 and im satisifed with it. I tried M1 0w-40 for a month durring the winter. It generally sounded worse, especially durring startup, so I went back to 15w-50.

sounded worse.....explain, b/c i get a loud whine at startup sounding like your power steering when it needs more fluid.....the whine goes away as the engine warms up

[Onizuka]

It wasnt a whine, but the valve train was louder and more metalic sounding. 0 weight is for mostly luxury cars with close assembly tolerences (in other words, not the SR).

[Neil]

It wasnt a whine, but the valve train was louder and more metalic sounding. 0 weight is for mostly luxury cars with close assembly tolerences (in other words, not the SR).

i noticed that when going to 10-30syn. It was very noticable at startup the first time, but i put 5 miles on it and it went 90% away and has stayed that way.

yeah. i wouldnt use 0 weight on an sr!

[Silvia007]

I too 2nd the 15w50 is too heavy for street use. I use Amsoil 10w30 turbo formulated which is 100% synthetic, I only go with Mobil if I can't get my hands on Amsoil, somehow, the law says it's ok to call an oil Full synthetic if it's contents contains 75% or more synthetic and the rest dyno oil. Amsoil is good for 75k miles or 1 year, of course I change it every 3k miles regardless, my dealer even buys back my used oil because it still have so much life left. I also use a larger oil filter for more capacity with anti-drain back. I work on a lot of engines and those that have seen only dyno oil all it's life, everything is caked with hard black soot whereas my KA when it was torn down at 160k, was spotless. I don't skimp when it comes to my cars, only the best.

[driftjunkie209cali]

run the best u can buy, why risk your $2000-3000 sr engine on cheap oil. think about!

[Neil]

not everyone benefits from spending the extra bucks to buy what race teams use.

why run the best you can buy when on par synthetic is perfectly well enough for routine maintenance?

p.s. anyone who only has $2000 in their sr swap probably has more to worry about than oil.

[seal3k]

i think he meant 2000-3000 for the sr swap alone

[Turb0wned]

wow back from the dead

[gtune4]

I love my sr so

Moile 1 10-30 all the way

cost more, but so does a new bottom end, turbo, eeeeeek!

[drifting240]

ok so you run thinner in the winter and thicker in the summer? is that how your suppose to do it? i have been running 15w50. let me know what you think..

[Nismo_Freak]

I run a 10w40 in the "winter" and a 15w50 in the summer. Our winters are a joke for the most part although this winter was kinda colder than normal.

In the summer you must run a 15w50. The oil temps when ambient is 115 degs. will turn a 10w30 to water if you beat on it.

In cooler climates up North you could use a lighter grade, but I would still suggest a 15w50.