oil on spark plug

[3430willow]

About a year ago, I replaced all of my plugs & coils. The same symptoms returned, so I was removing all of the coils just to check things out & the coil chamber in back driver's side was filled with oil. BTW, it is a 2000 Nissan Maxima. I am sure there are a lot of things that could cause this--major & minor. Any input? Also, I am a female who has only recently began doing any of my car repairs. I have changed the starter, MAF sensor, plugs & coils. This job may be a little much for me, but I thought I would just get some input before I broke down & took it in.

All help is greatly appreciated.

[MaximA32]

Was it the part of the plug that the coil went onto?

[3430willow]

The whole chamber was filled up. It came out dripping wet with oil.

[MaximA32]

Sounds like the valve covers was leaking into the plug hole.

[3430willow]

Thanks for the response. So, this will mean I will need to remove the plenum to get to the rear valve covers? How difficult do you think that will be?

[MaximA32]

Book labor on that (what a shop would charge) is probably about 6 hours.

[3430willow]

My original symptoms were similar to those of bad coil(s). Would this oil in the spark plug hole be causing symptoms like that or once I get the leak fixed, will I still be trying to find out what is causing my rough idle, etc?

[3430willow]

While I have the plenum out, any ideas on what else I might replace while I am in there? Car has 113K miles. I would hate to go through all of the trouble to tear it apart & put it back together & then have something else go bad a few months down the road & have to take the plenum out again.

[MaximA32]

May as well clean/replace the EGR guide tube while you're there. They like to clog full of carbon and throw CELs that can be misdiagnosed as a malfunctioning EGR valve. Might as well clean the throttle body as well. Basically, clean anything that looks dirty. No point at doing all that work and not do some housekeeping while you're there, you know?

May want to have Tigersharkdude and loystock pop in as they've delved into the VQ30 MUCH deeper than I have.

[loystock]

In addition to what 'max' has mentioned, for a 10-year old car, you might as well replace the Knock Sensor, unless it's been done before. Also check the condition and resistance of the fuel injectors, 10-14 ohms.

[MaximA32]

Ah yes. The knock sensor. I always forget it's tucked under the plenum.

[3430willow]

Thanks. I found some detailed info in my chilton & some online stuff & in a couple of weeks when I have a day to set aside for it, I think I will give it a try. Worst case scenario--I have to get my car towed in once I take it apart & can't put it back together, haha. Nah, it looks doable, just a little tedious. I can call in reinforcements if I have to. I might be on here a lot around that time asking questions, though. Do you think this could be causing my initial symptoms that made me check the coils again in the first place--super rough idle & some power loss?

[MaximA32]

The clogged EGR guide tube could be doing that.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000/em.pdf
Page 37

I think you mean to say you have oil on the outside of the spark plug
and not on the electrode of the plug
I think you have a bad seal in your valve cover
This seal separates the oil in the valve cover from the coil pack
If you look toward the top left of the referenced page you
can see an image with two gaskets referenced with x and x
There are 3 doughnut looking holes-these are gaskets
Probably one of them is cracked-they are plastic with a strong wire manufactured in them.
They can be replaced and are not expensive
I just couldnt find a better picture so you might search the floor shop manual

[loystock]

The thread below will give you a better idea as to what you or your mechanic will be dealing with:

valve-cover-gasket-job-on-i30-very-thor ... 90767.html

[xerexabante]

Spark plug Tube seals needs to be changed lucky for you the 3.0 motors can be bought, the 3.5 motors comes only with new valve covers.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

PIcture #12 scrolling from the top from Loystock above

[loystock]

Looks like I may have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. My son cam home yesterday with an Air Bag light and CEL. I was able to reset the Air Bag light after several attempts, and in my case. both front doors have to be open (most likely the transient fault was on the pax air bag module). For the CEL, I have P0134 (HO2S1-B1 High Voltage) and P0325 (KS).

I checked the O2 heater resistance and at 5.6 ohms, it was higher than spec, 2.3-4.3 ohms. The NGK O2 sensor was just over a year old so something must have caused it to fail prematurely. Upon closer inspection, I noticed P/S fluid has migrated into the cable and sensor. The harness was bundled with the P/S tube (original routing) so I replaced the sensor and re-routed the harness away from the P/S tube. So far it's working good. Most likely, the P/S fluid blocked the ATM side of the O2 sensor (thru the wiring) so it read higher than normal voltage.

As for the KS, I replaced it just a couple of weeks ago. Now the 99 I30-CA configuration is much harder to work with than similar I30 or 4th Gen Maxima. Unlike the other cars where you can get your hand inside the KS mounting (though a bit bruised) for the CA-config, it's not possible due to restrictions from EGR valve and a bracket. Removal was not difficult using Universal Joint, extensions and a liberal amount of WD-40. But installation is next to impossible since it's difficult to line up the bolt with the slot. So I modified the bolt into a self aligning one (grinding @ 1/8" of the tip) but in the process. reduced the effective length of the bolt (8mm x 1.25mm pitch x 30mm deep & 12mm head) . It's probably the reason why the KS came loose and generated the fault code.

So now, I have two options - use a longer self aligning bolt or remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. I'm more inclined to do the easy way. So I bought a longer bolt (8mm x 1.25mm pitch x 40mm deep & 13mm head) and will convert it into self-aligning one. And with a thread locker, hopefully it will work.

[3430willow]

I have finally started this project. Everything is taken apart & removed. Here are a few questions before I start putting it all back together:

On the rear manifold, I seem to be missing a part--it is on the front driver's side corner--I think it is the tall thing in the 13th down picture from the above detailed link. Anyone know what this is because I need to replace it?

Also, I bought a replacement knock sensor, but I do NOT see it anywhere?? Can anyone point me directly to it so I can put my new one one?

My EGR valve guide tube is very dirty & plugged. What is the best way to clean it? What other parts of the EGR system need to be cleaned & best way?

Besides these issues & a couple of hose replacements, I am ready to put it back together....

Thanks

[tigersharkdude]

Sounds like the rear valve cover. If you can, get under the car and look and see if its leaking. Trouble spots are the edges closest to the firewall

[tigersharkdude]

I have finally started this project. Everything is taken apart & removed. Here are a few questions before I start putting it all back together:

On the rear manifold, I seem to be missing a part--it is on the front driver's side corner--I think it is the tall thing in the 13th down picture from the above detailed link. Anyone know what this is because I need to replace it?

I dont see what you are talking about

Also, I bought a replacement knock sensor, but I do NOT see it anywhere?? Can anyone point me directly to it so I can put my new one one?

Knock sensor can be seen in this link http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=181 second picture down on left

My EGR valve guide tube is very dirty & plugged. What is the best way to clean it? What other parts of the EGR system need to be cleaned & best way?

Besides these issues & a couple of hose replacements, I am ready to put it back together....

Thanks

Ive personally not done this, but if its just the metal tube with no wires going to it. I would soak it in some HOT water and use a coat hanger to knock the big stuff out, and a pipe cleaner to clean it