oil consumption 07 G

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gwoods
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Looks like I used almost half a quart of oil in 3,000 miles? Anyone else using oil in an 07?

Running Mobil 1 5-30.

The only thing I could think is I've been trying to get through the 1/4 mile in 3rd gear which means 8,000 rpm. I know at higher RPM's you can have some blow by.

Jeff


joe603
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Keep an eye on it...hopefully you don't have one that consumes oil

Omegamerc
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With the drive down to NOPI I had a lot of oil missing (somewhere around 2-3qt) I'm in the process of having the oil checked at 1k intervals to determine if they need to replace my engine.

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gwoods
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I emailed a service advisor today about having the transmission serviced. I'll ask him about it when he emails me back.

Jeff

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telcoman
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gwoods wrote:Looks like I used almost half a quart of oil in 3,000 miles? Anyone else using oil in an 07?

Running Mobil 1 5-30.

The only thing I could think is I've been trying to get through the 1/4 mile in 3rd gear which means 8,000 rpm. I know at higher RPM's you can have some blow by.

Jeff
zerothread/283967

There have been many posts on oil consumption

Keep in mind that the L Mark on the dipstick is two quarts low. At least it is on the 06 G35

In my opinion, at 3k miles its time to change the oil anyway.Check it once a week & let us know.

Telcoman

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gwoods
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Putting the required 5 1/8 quart in mine brings it a little past the mid point on the L - H dot?

After 3000 miles the oil was sitting almost on the L and the oil looked bad IMO. So I opted for a change. I'm used to 6k mile oil changes but if the G is using oil I'm going to be doing 3 k oil changes. Another thing that concerns me is the tiny filter. OMG that thing is TINY. I wonder if there is another size that will fit and I can just add an extra 1/8 quart of oil??

BTW what is up with the 5 and 1/8th quart anyway?

Oh and I do check both cars almost every Sunday. They get a wipe down with the car duster and all the fluids are checked. The tires are checked air added as needed and they get a short spirited 'test' drive. I usually run 35 psi in my tires because I frequently exceed 100 mph and don't mind a harder ride in exchange for handling. At the track I let the tires down to about 24 psi depending on the air temp.

Jeff

Kendahl
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If it is really just half a quart, I wouldn't worry as that is not excessive oil consumption. Just check it frequently, especially before and during long trips, to make sure you don't run out. If it gets bad (i.e. a quart or more every 2,000 miles), report the problem to the dealer.

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chiem
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gwoods wrote:The tires are checked air added as needed and they get a short spirited 'test' drive. I usually run 35 psi in my tires because I frequently exceed 100 mph and don't mind a harder ride in exchange for handling. At the track I let the tires down to about 24 psi depending on the air temp.
A bit off topic, but why do you lower the tire pressure at the track ? Doesn't higher pressure give you better handling ?

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gwoods
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chiem wrote:
A bit off topic, but why do you lower the tire pressure at the track ? Doesn't higher pressure give you better handling ?
Great question. The track I go to is 1/4 mile drag strip. Lower tire pressure makes a bigger contact area and mushy sidewalls. That gives me less wheel spin getting started.

Jeff

ArizonaG35
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Hey Jeff,I just took my G in yesterday to change the oil at 7,500 miles... second oil change in the beast and I've only noticed minimal oil burnoff. Once a week, I check the G's fluids and I've not seen any major consumption issues. I was worried that the Fujita Short Ram Intake along with the Extreme temperatures here in the desert would cause a little bit of burning oil, but haven't seen anything yet... Granted, I don't run my G quite as hard as you do, but wouldn't think you should see that much oil burnoff... I'm also using 10W30... you may want to consider a heavier weight oil, but just my opinion... Definately keep a close eye on it and let us know if it persists...

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gwoods
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Only 7500 miles! I have almost 21000 LOL

I may try a 10/30 next summer, but you know since its winter now and only 95 degrees I think 5/30 is a better 'winter' oil weight

I'm always scared to run a different weight oil then the manufacture recommends. The tolerances on these motors have to be tight for the 11:1 compression so maybe a 10/30 won't fit and lubricate the rings as well as a 5/30 would. I'll trade oil burn off any day over lubrication problems.

When I cracked a piston in my Hemi I was trying to put the replacement piston and rod into the block every thing was coated with assembly lube but I could not get the piston into the block. Finally after 2 hours of trying with my ring compressorer out of frustration I grabbed a 3lb dead blow hammer and pounded the piston into the block with the handle. Even that took maybe 20 blows before the piston was in. The next day I read the shop manual " tap piston into place with hammer handle of block of wood"

The Hemi was only 9:1 compression. So my point is that if the 9:1 rings are so tight you have to pound the pistons in I can't even imagine how tight the 11:1 rings are and maybe a 10/30 weight oil can't reach the top ring assuming the piston has 3 rings. BTW the truck still ran a 14.3 with 7 cylinders LOL.



Jeff

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gday
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Yep your burning oil.... If you dipstick is not close to "Full" after your next oil change, then you're burning oil...

No stupid excuses such as "its a performance car, its suppose to burn oil". etc etc...

My previous Tubo'd teg, didn't burn that much oil at all.. After 3500 miles, the oil on the dipstick was still on or near the full line....

Same with my 06 G.... After 3500 miles, my oil was still near the Full line...

So its NOT NORMAL.... It might be NORMAL on the G35,,, but burning that much oil = bad piston rings.

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gwoods
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Are you sure its not because I have a Fujita intake LOL

ArizonaG35
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gwoods wrote:Are you sure its not because I have a Fujita intake LOL
Alright wise ***! You'll have to admit that the engine does run warmer with the short ram intake as it is sucking in hot air from the engine compartment... that was my point that with a hotter engine and extreme temps over 115 degrees in the valley, you may burn a little more oil than normal...

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ArizonaG35
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He might think i'm really pi$$ed about his comment... I was just

Hope he doesn't think i'm salty at him... just throwing a little spice into the thread... No worries mate!

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gwoods
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Actually I was messing with Gday and his blatant hatred of cold air intake systems.

I do agree that when its 115 it doesn't really matter where the air is coming from.

I don't care what anyone says my car is quicker with the Fujita kit.

I really think my oil consumption is from running past red line. I thought about it and I had checked the oil level prior to my last trip to the track and it looked great. After it was low and looked like it needed to be changed. I spent a couple runs trying to finish the 1/4 mile in 3rd bouncing off the fuel cut out. Maybe I won't do that again Next year when its tire time again I think I'm going to go to 245/50/17 or 255/50/17 which ever I can find. Then I should be able to cross the 1/4 mile in 3rd and stay on the tach

Jeff

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gday
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1st of all i never said cold air intake sucks...

OEM > Cold Air Intake > Short Ram intake..

Intake systems don't do much really for the price you pay... A simple filter change to a high flow filter should be good enough..

Short ram intake are a waste of money. Other thing the bling factor and the noise they make...

Cold air intake are okay, they work, but they get dirty really quick, and you have to take them out during the rain season...

I'll stick with OEM and a K&N Filter....

And my cousin red line his S2k all day... Doesn't burn oil at all... Something obviously wrong with your G.

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gwoods
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gday wrote:1st of all i never said cold air intake sucks...

OEM > Cold Air Intake > Short Ram intake..

Intake systems don't do much really for the price you pay... A simple filter change to a high flow filter should be good enough..

Short ram intake are a waste of money. Other thing the bling factor and the noise they make...

Cold air intake are okay, they work, but they get dirty really quick, and you have to take them out during the rain season...

I'll stick with OEM and a K&N Filter....

And my cousin red line his S2k all day... Doesn't burn oil at all... Something obviously wrong with your G.

USAF_G35_Guy
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Just toss a little Pro-long or Slick 50 in there :P .....sure ya might wear some bearings or something down, but you'll stop burning oil

I used some Pro-long in my 66 Chevelle and before the Pro-long on a 110 degrees day you could pop the hood and it'd feel like ya just opened an oven door....but post Pro-long I could actually pop the hood (after driving hard on a 110+ day) and not only did I hardly feel any heat coming off the motor...but I could even hold my hand on the valve cover and tolerate the heat (still warm, but tolerable).....now that's some lubrication baby! But of course I'm sure an old Chevy 350 motor is much less high tech and more forgiving than a G! =)

eh....guess you'll just have to go buy a S2K^^

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gday
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Who's the one burning oil and running a hot air intake.. And thinks he gained actual HP because his BUTT DYNO said so?

Ignorance is a bliss.

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gwoods
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gday wrote:Who's the one burning oil and running a hot air intake.. And thinks he gained actual HP because his BUTT DYNO said so?

Ignorance is a bliss.
I give up please tell us the supense is killing me.

Is this the BUTT DYNO you speak of?


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gday
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yeah, do you know how they did those dynos? with the *** damn hood open. hahah..

The short ram does provide better flow vs OEM... but once you close the hood, its sucking in warm air...

joe603
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gday wrote:yeah, do you know how they did those dynos? with the *** damn hood open. hahah..

The short ram does provide better flow vs OEM... but once you close the hood, its sucking in warm air...
Actually if you want to get technical....the air will be warmer on a dyno compared to a moving vehicle. When your moving, the warm air from inside the engine bay is being replaced at a very fast rate with cooler outside air (much faster than the small 3.5l engine can use. This has zero to do with oil consumption. If he were to put back on the stock intake system, I would bet my G35 that it would still consume oil...the problem is much deeper than simply the incoming air temp.

We are all very aware of your opinions on short ram intakes...lets give it a rest, before the flaming begins.

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gwoods
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gday wrote:yeah, do you know how they did those dynos? with the *** damn hood open. hahah..

The short ram does provide better flow vs OEM... but once you close the hood, its sucking in warm air...
So then my faster then stock track times would be because of the butt dyno too? Maybe I'm racing with the hood open?

Are you incapabel of admitting you don't know what your talking about??

joe603
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Easy there killer....

Remember, arguing on the internet is like winning the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded.

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gwoods
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joe603 wrote:Easy there killer....

Remember, arguing on the internet is like winning the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded.
I'm just having fun. I know Gday is always going to say the same thing no matter what. If I posted back - back - back runs at the track with the stock intake - fujita - stock intake and proved the fujita is faster he'd still say the fujita is a hot air intake. It is funny to me when people just can't admit they were wrong.

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chiem
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gwoods wrote:If I posted back - back - back runs at the track with the stock intake - fujita - stock intake and proved the fujita is faster he'd still say the fujita is a hot air intake.
Do it.

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gwoods
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Next time there is a test and tune DAY I will.

Most of the time I race at night. This is the kind of lighting the track I race at has in the pits. I tried to take a picture of the Charger and 300 guys I hang out with.




Gurslow
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chiem wrote:
Do it.
Bet he is faster with the intake. Bet gayday still talks crap


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