The brake fluid was from the master cylinder. That got replaced last week.unknown007 wrote:Make your leaking coolant. Check under the plenum into the valley to make sure there's not a flood in the valley.If there's coolant might have blown or broke one you coolant hose like the one I had to replace.Also if it's filled your gonna need new KS.Check radiator make sure it's not cracked or anything.Look at all the hoses and inspect to make sure none of your hoses broke.If your to do the Plenum job replace all the hoses if you got no high budget at the moment do a minimum wage like I did.
The brake fluid might be from the brake fluid container being over filled?I dunno.Well let us know what the deal is.
I'd been meaning to replace my water pump and thermostat. I've been having fluctuations in my idle too so I was already getting a new alternator. While the alternator was being switched out, I was going to replace my A/C compressor.Paul Wall wrote:Definitely look in the plenum area, specifically the valley if you have a scope or a mirror small enough to see in there. Unless its comming from the weep hole on the water pump.
1.look at the water pump
2. look at the radiator hoses
3. Look at the plenum and all the hoses under it.
Best of luck.
Would have been great if you could have provided some type of answer to his question...Q45tech wrote:"This car is depleting its rainy day fund faster than I can fill it.Every week is a new episode. I think the car is being passive-aggressive again. I wonder what I did to make it angry?"
Those with only a 2-3 year ownership interval are learning, just wait until you've had the car for 19+ years.
Everyday I weigh which car to take, which will cost the most in wear and tear for the days journey........the 10 year old AMG or the 19 year old Q.They both get the same MPG. The AMG costs 2.5x the Q in tires and brakes and weighs 500 pounds less.
It's called "The Big Picture", not "Just Today's Crisis."jimbyjimb wrote:Would have been too relevant and simple. There's that "simple" word again. Good grief...
Haitian, sorry I don't have any answers to your question, but there are some good replies posted. Also, there is another guy on this board named SteveTheTech now. I've read a lot of his posts and he knows what he is talking about and actually post "Just Today's Crisis" answers. Maybe send him a email.maxnix wrote:It's called "The Big Picture", not "Just Today's Crisis."
I just got back from underneath the car. Looks like the leak originates from right under the radiator. I'm boned. I can't get a ride to the Walgreen's tonight for the distilled water, so I'll try again between classes tomorrow and try to get the car to the shop. Another thing that's bugging me is that there are no guarantees that the car can be fixed tomorrow, so I'm foreseeing not having a car until Monday.oldmako wrote:Random thoughts:
This might sound really stupid, but make sure that you get the engine nice and hot to assist you in finding that coolant leak. If it's a slight leak it will become more evident once the coolant gets hot and up to pressure.
Don't forget to use your nose. Leaking coolant has a fairly strong and unique odor which can help you find a leak if it's out of sight.
Are you sure that the leaking coolant was from your car and not the vehicle which was parked there before yours??
This is another good reason to keep your engine bay nice and clean. Any abnormality is easier to spot.
Sometimes it's beneficial to get under the car and look up to find a leak. You may be able to see the trail of liquid that's invis from above.
Off to make the donuts. Good luck with the anomaly.
Really? That is great news! That's definitely a load off. Thanks for the heads up!qship96 wrote:Any repair shop can locate and install new radiator in way less than 1 day.I went with a CSF brand radiator ,less than $200 for part, works perfectly so far{2 years}.
Thanks for the advice. Most of the coolant looks to be on the ground. I opened the radiator cap and stuck a finger in there. Came out dry as a bone. I think I might just have to fill it with the distilled water or premix and make my way to the shop. I can't see any of the hoses per se, even when I got under the car. Then again, the car is in the parking lot of my apartment complex and I don't have much clearance. I'll try getting under there again with a flashlight, but for now, I'm assuming the worst. If it turns out to be not be as bad as I'm thinking it is, then I'll be pleasantly surprised.oldmako wrote:1800radiator. They will bring a new rad to your door. Now, I have no idea if they are any good, or will fit your ride. They are a franchise and as such they are only as good as the guy who runs the one in your hood. I suspect that an Infin rad is one pricey mofo. You might want to shop around and see what your choices are.
But, first find the leak. It might just be a bum hose, or a loose or broken clamp. IOW an easy cheap fix.
Unless your car has wizzed all or most of it's coolant out on the street, go ahead and drive it. An empty expansion chamber isn't such a big deal IF the rad itself is full of coolant. Now I'm not suggesting a drive across Texas or run that mother like a chainsaw, but if you just need to quick run to autozone, then check your coolant and hit the road.
Wow. thanks for doing that leg work. I wonder if I can still call and have them cancel it. I don't think they'll be starting the work until Monday. I won't be able to get the parts and have them shipped to the shop though by then would I? I only agreed to the price because I was in a tight spot and I dislike not having my car. But if I can save that much then, I think I'll let them hold on to the car a bit longer. I'll call first thing Monday morning and have them delay work and cancel the part orders. I have half a mind to throttle the guy for his shenanigans. I'd been to them once and they were decent and conveniently close by. But this is unacceptable.qship96 wrote:$$$ 911 sounds like a truckload for that work!!! If you price the items with joe, My guess is pump is about $125, thermostat $15, 3 belts $45, and 3 complete idler pullys{ not just their bearings} $150....total $335 that leaves a truckload of labor charges built into that $911. Why not do the job yourself and save? the items are pretty simple, and should only take 2-3 hours maximum!!!!
EDIT... I looked up exact prices on Joes site for you
1. waterpump $1102. all 3 belts total $513.thermostat $204.A/c pully $58, couldnt find the other 2, but prices are similar- much cheaper to purchase just the bearings and press them in.
My original estimate of $335 is extremely close to actuals, plus joe is having a additional sale of some kind currently, not sure the exact amount.
Modified by qship96 at 7:39 PM 3/27/2009